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Old 12-16-2007, 09:41 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
Well I pushed the envolope, and it now looks like it will be awhile before I can finish shooting on the skin.

Kip
come on Kip,
Rivit guns work in winter...
Don't let us lessers of the art suffer...
Keep the progress moving forward and posted

as I sit I my recliner on WIFI

OK, I'm not that bad, I did wax the front segments today in 40 degree weather.
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Old 12-17-2007, 06:40 AM   #122
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Its not a question of riveting on the skin when it's cold outside, but the temp at which the sealent is applied. It would be better if it was above freezing, better yet if above 50.
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Old 12-17-2007, 09:57 AM   #123
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Kip, I've got a tent that's big enough for your Airstream. If you want we can set it up and use my propane bazillion-BTU construction heater to keep things warm. Hate to see you slow down.

I'm going to "skirt" my Safari for the same reason--need to POR-15 before springtime.

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Old 12-17-2007, 10:04 AM   #124
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Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on that. I have more hardwood floors to install in the house first. Her projects always trump mine.
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:19 AM   #125
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The tent is 10'x16' by 10' high. It can easily be 10'x20'. The blue tarps from Costco fit perfectly and are cheap (I have many). We can take a used one and cut an Airstream-shaped "hangar door" in one end to fit tight (or tape it on temporarily) and drape the sides to the ground. The joints are pretty stable and the 1-1/4" pipes are stiff. It does fine in a wind if you guy it. Each foot has its own stakable plate.

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It might even be possible, and desirable, to use half as a lean-to, but I've been thinking that configuration may be difficult to heat.

Should work...

You get to pay for the propane.

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Old 01-26-2008, 04:05 PM   #126
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good weather day

I talked my brother into coming over to help me shoot on the street side skin. It only cost me a 6 pack of Bluemoon. I had to trim the bottom edge of the panel done to ED (edge distance) before We could install it. I used a skin knife to score the aluminum and then a pair of duck bill vise grips to brake it off. A quick sand of the edge followed up with a vixen file and we we ready to shoot. A skin knife is the best way to make a long straight cut if you don't have a shear Handy. 2 hours later the skin was on. I still have to make the lower wrap before I can shoot on the bottom row. I'm installing the wrap behind the side skins
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Old 02-10-2008, 10:47 AM   #127
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I finally fabricated the lower wrap, I have to finish some honey dues before I can get these installed
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:14 PM   #128
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Finally finishing up the honey do job, new flooring and railing. Post caps and handrail to go, will do this tomorrow. I'm excited to start up on the GT again next weekend.

kip
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:54 PM   #129
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Kip, georgeous! (Not you, honey, the stairwell.) Now get back to your real work!

BTW, I cut the first three panels of the dome today. I'm going to trial fit them tomorrow to see if I need to use your flange tool and shrinker.

Zep
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Old 03-16-2008, 09:31 AM   #130
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Zep: do I need to send a couple of pic's to Mxxxx so you too can have some fun.

Kip
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Old 03-16-2008, 09:55 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
Zep: do I need to send a couple of pic's to Mxxxx so you too can have some fun. Kip
Please refrain. I've got enough honey-dos on list already!
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Old 03-21-2008, 05:43 PM   #132
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back at it

I drilled up the streetside lower wrap today. I still need to contour at the wheel well. Was planning on removing curb side skin aft of door but the wind was blowing so hard I decided to delay it until tomorrow. I forgot to take a bunch of stuff over to my dad's (where the trailer is parked) so I will hit it hard tomorrow. I did make some of the new stringers for that side though, but one of the things I forgot was the long one like I did on the street side.
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Old 03-22-2008, 11:26 PM   #133
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Social commentary insert

Just another post in the ongoing record of Kip the Munificent helping out local Airstreamers with sheet metal issues--a little dome advice and confidence builder (yes, that is the Safari inner dome form and practice panels) ....

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No, I am told this is NOT the only shirt Kip owns...

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Old 03-24-2008, 05:51 PM   #134
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Another full day

Got alot done today. Removed old skin that had been changed once before. Notice how they notched the skin to clear the door hinge, I was quite surprised with that finding. I took a step backwards because I didn't have the wheel well positioned properly so I had to brake the sealant all loose to move the fwd outboard corner out about 3/8", oops. This took some time. I then made the frame modifications like the other side and drilled up the new skin. I had already made the aft portion of wrap so I drilled it up to. I still need to fabricate to fwd section. I will take it all apart tomorrow and prime all the mating surfaces. I should be able to shoot it all together this next weekend.
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:57 PM   #135
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Here are the pic's that didn't post earlier
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Old 04-04-2008, 06:15 PM   #136
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Its starting to look like an Airstream again. Shot on the curb side skin and all the Wraps. I mixed up more sealant, thinned it, and poured it into the cavity between the skin and wheel well. I will start on the belly skin tomorrow.
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Old 04-05-2008, 09:45 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
Its starting to look like an Airstream again. Shot on the curb side skin and all the Wraps. I mixed up more sealant, thinned it, and poured it into the cavity between the skin and wheel well. I will start on the belly skin tomorrow.
Unless I missed it, would you talk about thinning the sealant? What kind of sealant, what did you use to thin it?
Progress is looking great! Enjoying the thread.
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Old 04-06-2008, 09:49 AM   #138
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For sealant I am using a product called PRC1440 B1/2. It is a two part polymer aircraft fuel tank sealant. It has a shelf life of only about 6 months and after it passes that date we cannot legally use it on the aircraft anymore, and it has to be disposed of has a Hazmat. I hoard the expired stuff from work and have been using it on mt GT. The problem is I used my last six tubes on the wheel wells and I need more. I guess I'm going to have to break down and buy some more before our current stock at work expires. It is thinned with MEK so proper ventilation, chemical gloves, and mask are a must. As you can see from the picture it is incredibly messy to work with.
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:01 PM   #139
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No pictures today. I made all the paper templates for the belly pans. I have now officially ran out of aluminum sheets and will have to get two more sheets for the belly pans. I took apart a double pane street side wing window that I bartered another member with, for some metal work, and got the panes separated so that I can replace my plastic one with glass. I also ordered a prodigy P3 brake controller. I'm in a made dash to make the FCU Restoration rally with my aluminum tent and first road trip at the end of this month. If the weather holds I'm pretty sure I can make it. My wife is not real keen on the aluminum tent aspect but it is going to be fun as I'm presenting a class on sheet metal and riveting.
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:31 AM   #140
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Kip,

I picked up some 5052-H32 at Alreco. He has 4x8s in 0.032 and 4x10s in 0.025. I still like the idea of using the annealed 5053 0.032 as a belly pan--it wont crack around the rivets and I intend to use a large aluminum "washer" under the rivet head anyway, for two reasons. First, more support for the belly skin to prevent flexure failure. Second, I can approximate the rivet hole locations from the old belly pan with a larger hole.

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