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Old 11-03-2006, 01:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaiden
Ah, so the aluminum ribs are too soft to hold a screw? Interesting. I don't think I want to start putting in a million rivnuts.
.
The horizontal ribs are thin and maybe soft. The vertical ribs are more substantial and will certainly hold a screw--I think from a strength standpoint for a long time. But they will back out, I'm afraid, from vibration.
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Old 11-03-2006, 01:46 PM   #22
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LIPETS, thanks for the photo up in post #17!!! My gray tank valve leaks in my Sovereign and I've been meaning to fix it, but I would have removed the banana skin around the outlet if it hadn't been for you. What's the orientation of the photo? Is the tank with the extended arm the black or gray tank? I assume "up" in the foto is "aft" on the trailer, so the bath is to the left and the tank with arm is indeed the black tank?

And what's your take on the fluid level sensors? It appears there's only two wires on the tank with the 'arm', but four wires reconnected into two wires for the other one. I have two sets of wires, each with 2 wires, coming up through a hole in th floor. I can't see how they are connected to the tanks.

Now, how am I going to get to it? I don't want to pull up the Pergo and cut a hole in the floor, and I don't want to have to remove the belly pan. Rock and a hard place, for sure...

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Old 11-03-2006, 02:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
LIPETS, thanks for the photo up in post #17!!! My gray tank valve leaks in my Sovereign and I've been meaning to fix it, but I would have removed the banana skin around the outlet if it hadn't been for you. What's the orientation of the photo? Is the tank with the extended arm the black or gray tank? I assume "up" in the foto is "aft" on the trailer, so the bath is to the left and the tank with arm is indeed the black tank?

And what's your take on the fluid level sensors? It appears there's only two wires on the tank with the 'arm', but four wires reconnected into two wires for the other one. I have two sets of wires, each with 2 wires, coming up through a hole in th floor. I can't see how they are connected to the tanks.

Now, how am I going to get to it? I don't want to pull up the Pergo and cut a hole in the floor, and I don't want to have to remove the belly pan. Rock and a hard place, for sure...

Zep
up is aft correct.

The black tank, is up in the pic, the grey is at the bottom but under the floor.

There are 4 wires on each tank, but four merge to two, then there is a quick disconnect.

The wires come from the sidewall and then go through the floor inside the main frame. It should have dropped through the floor. Into the bannana skin area and through the frame.

But the factory took a shortcut I guess!

I re-routed them throught the hole already in the frame made for the valve handle, I caulked it in with a flap and it all looks good but time will tell.
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Old 11-03-2006, 05:23 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaiden
Since this thread is title skin corrosion, I'm putting new bare aluminum skin on the inside of my Flying Cloud. I was considering using stainless steel screws to give it a little different look. Will this cause a corrision problem?

Thanks
It would probably not cause corrosion unless the joint got wet. However as stated in the previous posts they will most likely vibrate loose. I plan on attaching my interior skin back on with flush rivets and then splice all the skin together using splice plates and a butt joint. This will be alot of additional work, but this is what my wife says I want to do in order to get the smooth look she says I want. We will then apply some type of paintable wall covering. This will work good for us because we are moving things around and I need to plug alot of holes anyway.

I got the POR-15 today (I had to go to Atlanta for the first part of the week) which I promply dropped a quart. Lid did not come completly of, but it sure made a mess. It cleans up off of shoes, concrete, toolboxs, and many other things with acetone. All I need now is the T-shirt. I hope I still have enough. I have the aft two floorboards ready to remove and I was just waiting for the POR-15. I was going to do this on Sat. but the radiator was leaking on my wifes Jeep when she got home, so now I'll be refocused on that.
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Old 11-03-2006, 06:35 PM   #25
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If you miss a spot on your skin and wait more than 30 minutes or so acetone will not do anything.

You have to wear it off
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Old 11-04-2006, 07:30 AM   #26
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Aerowood - I used a single quart in two sessions and got the following coverage on my 27' Overlander (which used to look as big as a tennis court when I was on my back underneath it)...

3 coats - Hitch & 'A' frame back to ladder frame welds; Axle flange plates inner & outer; Rear bumper frame and BW tank area; every surface touched by belly aluminum; Step frame and mechanisim.... 2 coats - Entire outriggers & outer ladder frame ; FW tank frame; Spars spot coated....

Many places had good asphalt based paint left so they got covered with 3 coats of rustoleum. The POR-15 paint has hustle, it really is easy to use and has alot better coverage than I was imagining it would.

I went for the 4-qt gallon special & have a two quarts of silver and one of gloss black left over that I will probably end up selling on eBay or something...
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Old 11-04-2006, 08:01 PM   #27
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[quote=Aerowood]It would probably not cause corrosion unless the joint got wet. However as stated in the previous posts they will most likely vibrate loose. I plan on attaching my interior skin back on with flush rivets and then splice all the skin together using splice plates and a butt joint.

Could you provide a picture when done? Not sure what you're referring to when you say splice the skin together.

thanks
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Old 11-05-2006, 02:48 PM   #28
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The current method that Airstream uses to attach interior and exterior skins together is called a lap joint. What I plan on doing to the interior skins is to cut either the top or botton skin off so that they donot overlap but actually butt up to one another. In order to attach them together or splice them together will require a splice or doubler riveted to the back sides of both skins making the joint flush. All rivets used will be countersunk (or dimpled skin) solid and blind rivets. Paintable textured wall paper can then be applied without having ridges and pop rivet protusions for a very smooth finish. I am doing this because the interior shin has alot of extra small and large (speaker holes) that need to be repaired and I cannot afford to replace all of the interior skins that have been abused by PO's.
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Old 11-07-2006, 09:49 PM   #29
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floor out

I took the aft two floor panels out this afternoon. These two panels have extensive acid rot from PO battery boil over. Also found rot around lav. Removed the Galvenized portion that caused the skin corrosion. Last but not least started making new floor panels. Still need to clean up frame and apply the POR-15. I have also started my search for a gray water tank. I,m going to put it betwwe the crossmembers aft of the axle. The fresh water tank sets just in front of the axle. Looks like I can get around a 25 gal tank to fit there. The search continues.
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:13 AM   #30
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looks like your well under way to a nice repair
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Old 11-17-2006, 08:38 PM   #31
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update

I got the frame cleaned up and applied POR-15 last weekend. cleaned it on Sat. and painted on Sun. I no sooner got started when it started snowing. I sprayed on the POR-15. It went real well except I think I froze my trailing edge off. Got the two floorboards cut out and I recessed the area that goes over the wheelwell so the floorboard would set flat. I also found the outrigger that is fwd of the rt. wheel well broken off and bent up. Both of the wheel wells were cracked also. I am now ready to reinstall the repaired outrigger and wheel wells. I also made new U channels and all the coroded parts (except skin) that I found bad on the rear. Busy day tomorrow
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Old 11-17-2006, 08:40 PM   #32
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pics

For some reason I cannot upload more then 3 pics
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Old 11-17-2006, 08:42 PM   #33
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nice work, have a fun weekend.
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Old 11-18-2006, 12:53 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
For some reason I cannot upload more then 3 pics
Damn nice work! I didn't think you'd be going so fast. You'll have the whole thing done in time for spring camping. Envy envy envy....

Yes, you can upload more than three. After you browse and select the first two or three, upload them. Then just browse again--repeat until you get up to 8 (it's 10, had to look) uploaded. When you go to your paperclip icon to insert the images, you'll see that they are all there.

I don't know why the browsing function stops uploading if you've selected more than 3--maybe there is a total file size limit for each upload. I just deal with it by doing multiples.

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Old 11-18-2006, 07:19 PM   #35
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I installed the floor panels today. I now need to put all the U channel down and get the skin clecoed back on
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Old 11-19-2006, 10:43 AM   #36
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A question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
I installed the floor panels today. I now need to put all the U channel down and get the skin clecoed back on
Is it wise to put the pergo floor in befor the interior walls? If so why?
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Old 11-19-2006, 06:05 PM   #37
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The picture you are seeing is just the the plywood with several coats of gloss poly that I had left over from another project. I had tinted the poly with a light maple stain. The bottom looks just as good except for the knots.
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Old 11-27-2006, 06:49 AM   #38
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update

I got the U channels all down (forgot to take camera) and replaced the rear doubler that was corroded so bad. I will start replacing the rear skins with a favorable weather forcast.
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Old 11-27-2006, 11:38 AM   #39
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interior flush panels

I've also been considering flush joining interior skins. Was thinking of using Hysol to bond a backing strip on one panel and then flush rivets on the joining panel- fewer rivets. Or possibly nutplates(K-1000) with a finish washer and oval head screw in area's where I might desire an inspection plate or access to elect- etc. Nice Avitar- pretty cool flyin with the doors open. Tim
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Old 11-27-2006, 12:52 PM   #40
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I was also thinking nutplates, but the dimpled style, and then dimpling the skin, but I haven't made up my mind yet. It would be alot of nutplates.. We fly with the back open alot, generally with satilite proof of concept instruments or in this case it was a prototype hurricane bouy that we launched into a lake in Oklahoma.
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