Slow floor replacement

[toastie]

Originally Posted by utee94

Looking good toastie, all that new channel is so shiny and nice. That's about the spacing I used, seems to be working just fine.

-Marcus

Thanks Marcus, this trailer was neglected and was in very poor condition when I bought it, and it was exactly what I was looking for.

[Jim & Susan]

What Truck and Marcus said about the elevator bots. I think I read the other day that you are bolting the shell thru the new U-channel into the outriggers, right? That's pretty much how my 27 footer was put together. I think you'll be fine.

Jim

[toastie]

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

What Truck and Marcus said about the elevator bots. I think I read the other day that you are bolting the shell thru the new U-channel into the outriggers, right? That's pretty much how my 27 footer was put together. I think you'll be fine.

Jim

That is correct, fastener's are being attached to frame..........

[toastie]

Had rear separation and the pictures show why. The frame was repaired and today added a 2" x 3" angle iron bolted to the floor and frame for my rear plate. And like the front will add as many solid rivets that I can, shell to angle iron............toastie

[pbearsailor]

Looks really good, toastie. Back end of my frame looked exactly like yours and I added a steel plate back there. I was putting bolts in there this morning and I'll be riveting the plate in when I get a helper for the bucking bar. Really impressive how much they stiffen up when the fasteners start going in.

cheers,
steve

[toastie]

Finally "slow floor replacement" is done, floor is down permanently. Starting to sand the seams, and my question to the forum is:
"What is the best filler to use on the elevator bolts and seams?" Bolts where recessed about 1/8"..........thanks toastie

[pbearsailor]

I'm going to coat the subfloor with epoxy, so I'll be using epoxy with a filler to level out all my holes and seams. Microballoons would be fine; I think I've got a container of West System 407 407 Low-Density Filler that'll work ok. It'll sand smooth very easily.

cheers,
steve

[toastie]

Originally Posted by pbearsailor

I'm going to coat the subfloor with epoxy, so I'll be using epoxy with a filler to level out all my holes and seams. Microballoons would be fine; I think I've got a container of West System 407 407 Low-Density Filler that'll work ok. It'll sand smooth very easily.

cheers,
steve

Steve

Thanks very much, made both a favorite..........

Steve

[toastie]

Almost forgot to cut hole for the shower, sanded off the dim's, luckily I wrote them down on a piece of paper. Have to finish the belly pan before I can start the fun stuff..........toastie

[MarkR]

ok I really like your shower drain setup . . . that's what I would like to do, but I was under the impression that I must have a trap or I'll be smelling the contents of my grey tank AND I was led to believe that I need larger diameter drain line. Do you have "alternate" information? And, where did you get that shower drain w/the barbered fitting?
Thanks, MarkR

[toastie]

Originally Posted by MarkR

ok I really like your shower drain setup . . . that's what I would like to do, but I was under the impression that I must have a trap or I'll be smelling the contents of my grey tank AND I was led to believe that I need larger diameter drain line. Do you have "alternate" information? And, where did you get that shower drain w/the barbered fitting?
Thanks, MarkR

The shower drain comes with a stopper. The gray tank below is just for the shower and bathroom sink and is not part of the other gray water system, plus the shower drain is going to be approx 4" off the floor and
will built my own trap. The small bathroom sink will also have a trap. I bought my drain off ebay, its a SCANDVIK shower drain used on boats.........hope this helps..............toastie

Scandvik Drain & Accessories
Shower Drain

[toastie]

Stainless 7 Terminal Wiring Junction Box for the Bargman, all hardware is stainless, what a slick system.........

[dieseleagle]

Is the fitting at the end of the clear tube a straight-through barbed transition fitting or it a checkvalve?

[toastie]

Originally Posted by dieseleagle

Is the fitting at the end of the clear tube a straight-through barbed transition fitting or it a checkvalve?

No check valve...........

[byamcaravanner]

Originally Posted by toastie

Stainless 7 Terminal Wiring Junction Box for the Bargman, all hardware is stainless, what a slick system.........

Don't keep us in suspense... where did you get it?

[toastie]

Originally Posted by byamcaravanner

Don't keep us in suspense... where did you get it?

Steve & the crew

Just got back for the fall T.C.T. rally, what a great time.

I bought mine of e-bay with free shipping. Make sure that you get the stainless steel.
Stainless 7 Terminal Wiring Junction Box Way Boat Light:eBay Motors (item 120390769326 end time Oct-07-09 18:16:31 PDT)

You can also buy from Vintage Trailer Supplies but that are out of stock.
7-Way Wiring Box

[toastie]

Started today on the belly pan, have tried all shears and the harbor freight electric shear works the best by far. Raising the trailer 7" really helped also http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92115.

[pbearsailor]

Lookin' good, Toatstie. What aluminum are you using for your belly pan?

Great idea on those ramps--I think I know where I can borrow a pair.

cheers,
steve

[toastie]

Originally Posted by pbearsailor

Lookin' good, Toatstie. What aluminum are you using for your belly pan?

Great idea on those ramps--I think I know where I can borrow a pair.

cheers,
steve

Thanks Steve

I'm using 5052 0.040 and the ramps are Rhino Ramp 12000 Extreme Ramp bought at Rhino Ramp 12000 Extreme Ramp Set - 2166195 | Tractor Supply Company

toastie

[pbearsailor]

Thanks!!

steve