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Old 08-26-2009, 07:36 PM   #281
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Looking good toastie, all that new channel is so shiny and nice. That's about the spacing I used, seems to be working just fine.

-Marcus
Thanks Marcus, this trailer was neglected and was in very poor condition when I bought it, and it was exactly what I was looking for.
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Old 08-26-2009, 08:01 PM   #282
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What Truck and Marcus said about the elevator bots. I think I read the other day that you are bolting the shell thru the new U-channel into the outriggers, right? That's pretty much how my 27 footer was put together. I think you'll be fine.

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Old 08-26-2009, 08:04 PM   #283
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What Truck and Marcus said about the elevator bots. I think I read the other day that you are bolting the shell thru the new U-channel into the outriggers, right? That's pretty much how my 27 footer was put together. I think you'll be fine.

Jim
That is correct, fastener's are being attached to frame..........
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Old 09-05-2009, 02:56 PM   #284
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Had rear separation and the pictures show why. The frame was repaired and today added a 2" x 3" angle iron bolted to the floor and frame for my rear plate. And like the front will add as many solid rivets that I can, shell to angle iron............toastie
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Old 09-05-2009, 03:27 PM   #285
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Looks really good, toastie. Back end of my frame looked exactly like yours and I added a steel plate back there. I was putting bolts in there this morning and I'll be riveting the plate in when I get a helper for the bucking bar. Really impressive how much they stiffen up when the fasteners start going in.

cheers,
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Old 09-06-2009, 08:04 AM   #286
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Finally "slow floor replacement" is done, floor is down permanently. Starting to sand the seams, and my question to the forum is:
"What is the best filler to use on the elevator bolts and seams?" Bolts where recessed about 1/8"..........thanks toastie
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Old 09-06-2009, 08:53 AM   #287
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I'm going to coat the subfloor with epoxy, so I'll be using epoxy with a filler to level out all my holes and seams. Microballoons would be fine; I think I've got a container of West System 407 407 Low-Density Filler that'll work ok. It'll sand smooth very easily.

cheers,
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:13 AM   #288
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I'm going to coat the subfloor with epoxy, so I'll be using epoxy with a filler to level out all my holes and seams. Microballoons would be fine; I think I've got a container of West System 407 407 Low-Density Filler that'll work ok. It'll sand smooth very easily.

cheers,
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Steve

Thanks very much, made both a favorite..........

Steve
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:58 AM   #289
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Almost forgot to cut hole for the shower, sanded off the dim's, luckily I wrote them down on a piece of paper. Have to finish the belly pan before I can start the fun stuff..........toastie
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Old 09-06-2009, 03:54 PM   #290
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ok I really like your shower drain setup . . . that's what I would like to do, but I was under the impression that I must have a trap or I'll be smelling the contents of my grey tank AND I was led to believe that I need larger diameter drain line. Do you have "alternate" information? And, where did you get that shower drain w/the barbered fitting?
Thanks, MarkR
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Old 09-06-2009, 06:02 PM   #291
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ok I really like your shower drain setup . . . that's what I would like to do, but I was under the impression that I must have a trap or I'll be smelling the contents of my grey tank AND I was led to believe that I need larger diameter drain line. Do you have "alternate" information? And, where did you get that shower drain w/the barbered fitting?
Thanks, MarkR
The shower drain comes with a stopper. The gray tank below is just for the shower and bathroom sink and is not part of the other gray water system, plus the shower drain is going to be approx 4" off the floor and
will built my own trap. The small bathroom sink will also have a trap. I bought my drain off ebay, its a SCANDVIK shower drain used on boats.........hope this helps..............toastie

Scandvik Drain & Accessories
Shower Drain
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Old 09-09-2009, 03:31 PM   #292
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Stainless 7 Terminal Wiring Junction Box for the Bargman, all hardware is stainless, what a slick system.........
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:06 PM   #293
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Is the fitting at the end of the clear tube a straight-through barbed transition fitting or it a checkvalve?
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:02 PM   #294
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Is the fitting at the end of the clear tube a straight-through barbed transition fitting or it a checkvalve?
No check valve...........
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:37 AM   #295
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Stainless 7 Terminal Wiring Junction Box for the Bargman, all hardware is stainless, what a slick system.........
Don't keep us in suspense... where did you get it?
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Old 09-20-2009, 05:35 PM   #296
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Don't keep us in suspense... where did you get it?
Steve & the crew

Just got back for the fall T.C.T. rally, what a great time.

I bought mine of e-bay with free shipping. Make sure that you get the stainless steel.
Stainless 7 Terminal Wiring Junction Box Way Boat Light:eBay Motors (item 120390769326 end time Oct-07-09 18:16:31 PDT)

You can also buy from Vintage Trailer Supplies but that are out of stock.
7-Way Wiring Box
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Old 09-27-2009, 04:34 PM   #297
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Started today on the belly pan, have tried all shears and the harbor freight electric shear works the best by far. Raising the trailer 7" really helped also http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92115.
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Old 09-27-2009, 04:47 PM   #298
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Lookin' good, Toatstie. What aluminum are you using for your belly pan?

Great idea on those ramps--I think I know where I can borrow a pair.

cheers,
steve
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Old 09-27-2009, 05:28 PM   #299
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Lookin' good, Toatstie. What aluminum are you using for your belly pan?

Great idea on those ramps--I think I know where I can borrow a pair.

cheers,
steve
Thanks Steve

I'm using 5052 0.040 and the ramps are Rhino Ramp 12000 Extreme Ramp bought at Rhino Ramp 12000 Extreme Ramp Set - 2166195 | Tractor Supply Company

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Old 09-27-2009, 05:36 PM   #300
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Thanks!!

steve
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