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Old 10-20-2009, 06:34 PM   #321
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Ran a few wires tonight and using rubber grommet as shown in the picture to keep the wires from the sharp edges. Would trempro work just as good as the rubber grommets. The rubber grommets are expensive.
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Old 10-20-2009, 08:23 PM   #322
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Metal Covered Wire

Metal covering would be more resistant to chafing but heavy, expensive and cumbersome.
Rodentia nibbling in and among wall areas are a hazard.
I like the rubber grommets, maybe alternative sourcing is an option.
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Old 10-21-2009, 05:02 AM   #323
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You definetely want to use rubber grommets. Having a wire short out inside the wall is not a good thing. You might consider McMaster Carr. You can get a bag of 25 for $10 or $11 rather than the unit price at the nearest big box store. While you are shopping, I found a step drill to be very useful.
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:31 AM   #324
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You definetely want to use rubber grommets. Having a wire short out inside the wall is not a good thing. You might consider McMaster Carr. You can get a bag of 25 for $10 or $11 rather than the unit price at the nearest big box store. While you are shopping, I found a step drill to be very useful.
What size did you use for the 12 gauage romex.......thanks vey much
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:09 AM   #325
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I used a combination of 5/8 ID and 3/4 ID. The smaller for one run, the larger for those places where I ran 2 or 3 through the same hole.
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Old 10-22-2009, 08:28 AM   #326
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Any thoughts on how many grommets would be needed for a complete rewire (of a 56 22 foot Flying Cloud)?

Hank
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Old 10-22-2009, 08:43 AM   #327
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Another though would be NOT running the AC wire with the DC wire together on the same runs, or tied together. keep them separated. This will minimize the "Noise" in the DC runs. Also do not ground the AC and DC on the same grounding studs

Kip
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:07 PM   #328
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Any thoughts on how many grommets would be needed for a complete rewire (of a 56 22 foot Flying Cloud)?

Hank
I don't have a clue, but I did order 40 from McMaster Carr today.

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Old 10-22-2009, 04:43 PM   #329
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Another though would be NOT running the AC wire with the DC wire together on the same runs, or tied together. keep them separated. This will minimize the "Noise" in the DC runs. Also do not ground the AC and DC on the same grounding studs

Kip
Will separate the wires......thanks
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Old 10-23-2009, 06:16 PM   #330
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All lighting will be LED Puck and LED Rope except for one antique table lamp. The Puck Lights draw only 65mA that's approximately 1/2 the power of a single incandescent automotive type bulb.
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Old 10-24-2009, 09:56 AM   #331
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Where did you get the puck lights at, and if you don't mind how much $$$$ for each?

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Old 10-24-2009, 10:09 AM   #332
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Toastie
Where did you get the puck lights at, and if you don't mind how much $$$$ for each?

Kip
Kip

Bought them at 12V Warm White LED Puck Light

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Old 10-24-2009, 01:18 PM   #333
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This is my wiring plan, all comments are welcome.

Wire 5 will be for the main
Wire 4 to the 20 amp, will be only for air conditioner

Wire 3 to the 15 amp, will be only for Intellipower; will be pluged into a GFI receptacle.
Wire 2 to 15 amp GFCI will be only for microwave and refrigerator.
Wire 1 to 20 amp GFCI will be all exterior and interior receptacles and switches.
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Old 10-24-2009, 08:50 PM   #334
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I wouldn't put all interior and exterior receptacles and switches on one circuit breaker. If you should happen to have a short on that circuit, you would lose all usable power in the trailer. Plus all on one it would be easier to overload and trip the breaker accidentally. I'd prefer two 15A circuit breakers staggered around the trailer so you would still have some power if you lost one circuit. Make them both 20A's if you are concerned about plugging in some large load like a 200W inverter.

Unless you are planning to include a 1500W microwave, you may not need to dedicate a circuit breaker to it and could share it with some receptacles and switches to keep from having to go to a 6 breaker box.

And regarding the microwave circuit breaker, I assume the fridge you would be sharing with it would be a 2-way (LP and AC only) with the 12V feed low current only for the circuit board. If you intend a 3-way that could be run entirely off 12V, you'd want to add a switch so that only the fridge or only the microwave could be powered at one time to keep you from blowing the circuit breaker when both were on simultaneously.
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Old 10-25-2009, 05:15 AM   #335
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I wouldn't put all interior and exterior receptacles and switches on one circuit breaker. If you should happen to have a short on that circuit, you would lose all usable power in the trailer. Plus all on one it would be easier to overload and trip the breaker accidentally. I'd prefer two 15A circuit breakers staggered around the trailer so you would still have some power if you lost one circuit. Make them both 20A's if you are concerned about plugging in some large load like a 200W inverter.

Unless you are planning to include a 1500W microwave, you may not need to dedicate a circuit breaker to it and could share it with some receptacles and switches to keep from having to go to a 6 breaker box.

And regarding the microwave circuit breaker, I assume the fridge you would be sharing with it would be a 2-way (LP and AC only) with the 12V feed low current only for the circuit board. If you intend a 3-way that could be run entirely off 12V, you'd want to add a switch so that only the fridge or only the microwave could be powered at one time to keep you from blowing the circuit breaker when both were on simultaneously.
Joe

Our fridge is a 3-way and we haven't picked out a microwave yet but
need to plan for a 1500W. Looks like I need to separate the fridge from
the microwave. If I replace the 15 amp GFCI with (2) 15 amp breakers, one
for the fridge and one for the microwave and have them plug into a gfi receptacle

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Old 10-25-2009, 11:03 AM   #336
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...Our fridge is a 3-way and we haven't picked out a microwave yet but need to plan for a 1500W. Looks like I need to separate the fridge from the microwave...
When's the last time you checked the 115V power needs of the fridge? Last time I looked at my 30-yr old model in the Overlander it was 125 watts, or about 1 amp. I don't think you need to put it on a separate circuit. Your microwave, even if a big one, is probably less than 1200 Watts. Theoretically, a 15-amp breaker can supply 1700+ Watts.

I think three 115V circuits are sufficent--one for the A/C and the other two to split circuits, just in case you have a breaker failure that you can't repair immediately or if you use multiple ceramic heaters in the winter. You're hard pressed in an Airstream to use enough 115V power to blow a breaker, unless you've rooted yourself permanently into a park and are using power tools with abandon. The common exception, of course, is the dreaded 1500W hair dryer, so your bath outlet needs to be on the other circuit from the microwave. If you're using more than one ceramic heater, you need to split them, too.

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Old 10-25-2009, 11:17 AM   #337
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When's the last time you checked the 115V power needs of the fridge? Last time I looked at my 30-yr old model in the Overlander it was 125 watts, or about 1 amp. I don't think you need to put it on a separate circuit. Your microwave, even if a big one, is probably less than 1200 Watts. Theoretically, a 15-amp breaker can supply 1700+ Watts.

I think three 115V circuits are sufficent--one for the A/C and the other two to split circuits, just in case you have a breaker failure that you can't repair immediately or if you use multiple ceramic heaters in the winter. You're hard pressed in an Airstream to use enough 115V power to blow a breaker, unless you've rooted yourself permanently into a park and are using power tools with abandon. The common exception, of course, is the dreaded 1500W hair dryer, so your bath outlet needs to be on the other circuit from the microwave. If you're using more than one ceramic heater, you need to split them, too.

Zep
Zep

Also thinking about going with a electric hot water take rated at 2000W, if I move the fridge back to the microwave breaker then I can have a breaker just for the hot water.

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Old 10-25-2009, 11:42 AM   #338
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Thanks Barry, I told the one neighbor that is my beer cooler..........
Its a beer cooler????? And to think I've been peeing in mine. Where do you keep your cigars?
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:48 PM   #339
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The GFI for the converter may not be such a good idea. There have been other threads about this in the past.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...gfi-43187.html
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Old 10-25-2009, 09:04 PM   #340
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When's the last time you checked the 115V power needs of the fridge? Last time I looked at my 30-yr old model in the Overlander it was 125 watts, or about 1 amp.
Yeah, it was too late late night. I was mixing 12VDC and 115VAC. A 3-way fridge probably pulls something like 12A on 12VDC. You are right that it would be more on the order of 1A on 115VAC, but don't quote me on the exact values. Sorry for the confusion.

I still stand by the idea of not putting all outlets and switches (lights) on a single circuit, though.
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