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Old 12-01-2006, 05:37 PM   #1
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acton
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another floor replacement question

Ive got to replace the rear 6 feet of floor, i have 4 feet from rear towards the middle out and wondering whats the best way to fit the new wood in? Is there a way to install it in one piece or do I need to do this in pieces. I dont have the shell off, doing a shell on replacement. Would it be easier to install the rear 4 feet of wood if I had the other 2 feet out already?
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Old 12-01-2006, 08:53 PM   #2
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Need additional info.....

Do you have rear bath? In other words how is trailer configured? We replaced the entire bathroom floor without removing shell. Can send pics to you.
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Old 12-01-2006, 09:17 PM   #3
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Yes its a rear bath. Im doing a shell on floor restoration. My main question is whether I can put the floor board section in one piece. The piece Im replacing is 4 feet of the rear
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Old 12-02-2006, 12:11 AM   #4
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Just slide it in from the outside. By lowering the front jack, and applying some pressure to the rear frame rails, you can create enough of a gap to slide the new floor in.

I highly recommend making a template of luan as it is much easier to slip in and out. Once you have a good fit, use it as a pattern to cut out your 3/4" plywood.

I am only familiar with the 70s models. If you have floor rot, you've probably got some frame rust/corrosion to deal with as well.
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Old 12-02-2006, 06:53 AM   #5
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That is the better way to do it but it can be done in pieces also.

TRy and cut the floor on a steel beam, or use a butt block to join old and new
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Old 12-02-2006, 08:16 AM   #6
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Hmm, Im going to give that a try from the outside, I think it may not be too hard and makes a lot of sense plus I'd have that back part in one piece. Thanks for the tips guys, will let you know how it goes.
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Old 01-13-2007, 09:43 AM   #7
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Ok, Now I have a question.

I want to keep the belly pan on, (if I can, I would rather not remove any of the exterior shell).

So how do I put the bolts into the floor, with out removing the shell or the belly pan (assuming I can do this)

Thanks.
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Old 01-13-2007, 03:42 PM   #8
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Just use self tapping flathead screws, maybe # 8 or 10-- zip them right in.
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Old 01-13-2007, 08:03 PM   #9
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Beth,

I have a 68 Sovereign with the rear bath. She needs a new floor. I'd love to see the pics, if you don't mind. Thanks.

Maureen
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Old 01-14-2007, 02:26 PM   #10
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floor replacement

the main body to frame bolts will need to be replaced alomg with all the smaller bolts.letting the edges of the belly pan down is a little work but it is the best way to get the wood in and to also make sure any areas that were leaking that led up to the floor rotting are repaired and sealed.
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Old 01-14-2007, 03:31 PM   #11
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katzklaw -- These are pretty close to OEM. Although self-tapping they definitely go in easier if you drill a pilot hole. You'll still have to remove the interior skins to get access to the screws in the C-channel.

It is possible to copy your old floor before removing it -- if it's going to come out in pieces. See the Story Stick to copy irregular shapes thread. You can record all sorts of detail -- cutouts, plumbing holes, etc. Pizza Chop's pics show the clamshell method of replacing floor -- preferable for putting floor back in. Use whatever fits your situation.

It's really hard to conceive how you'd replace floor ends with the banana wrap still on. As far as removing belly skin, it is fairly easy to drop one end and work on things. I have even rigged it back up temporarily & driven back to my storage facility. It started so thin (0.025") that subsequent corrosion may weaken it for the work you have to do. It is okay to insert a short segment of new aluminum back in, even though the original was full length under the trailer. Lap it like shingles to protect from road spray. Belly skin is not intended to be sealed. It is necessary to have some air circulation.
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Old 01-17-2007, 04:49 PM   #12
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This is Katz's Hubby (The Guy doing the work)

Ok here is my problem, I have the shell on, the belly pan on, and I am trying to put the floor back in. However, the 3/4" plywood does not want to go back in, at all, I have hammered it, kicked it, tapered the edges and all that, and I still do not know how to get it back on.

If I need to drop the belly pan, I'll drop it, But that is only if I need to drop it.

I mean, this is really staring to get to me, I have messing with this piece of wood for the last 2 hours to get it in, even cut it down into smaller parts, so I could work with it better, but it still will not go in.

I need to make sure I have a hatch for the tank to go into, as it stands, the floor is getting done, before the tank goes in... not my best idea.. but still seems like a good idea.. well seemed like a good idea at the time I was thinking it, but now I am not so sure.

Any advice would be a great help.

Thanks

DH
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Old 01-17-2007, 04:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dear Hubby
This is Katz's Hubby (The Guy doing the work)

Ok here is my problem, I have the shell on, the belly pan on, and I am trying to put the floor back in. However, the 3/4" plywood does not want to go back in, at all, I have hammered it, kicked it, tapered the edges and all that, and I still do not know how to get it back on.

If I need to drop the belly pan, I'll drop it, But that is only if I need to drop it.

I mean, this is really staring to get to me, I have messing with this piece of wood for the last 2 hours to get it in, even cut it down into smaller parts, so I could work with it better, but it still will not go in.

I need to make sure I have a hatch for the tank to go into, as it stands, the floor is getting done, before the tank goes in... not my best idea.. but still seems like a good idea.. well seemed like a good idea at the time I was thinking it, but now I am not so sure.

Any advice would be a great help.

Thanks

DH
not 100% positive on this but wasn't your old floor only 5/8? and your trying to slide 3/4 in the slot (between the frame and U channel) thats only wide enough for 5/8.... i know thats only what 1/8 diffrence but, that is tight fit...double check your old floor if you havent. if its all the same size use more crisco and a bigger hammer...
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Old 01-17-2007, 05:36 PM   #14
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Ok, well the old floor is 5/8" but it had flooring on it (vinyl Tile), that made it 3/4" thick. Now I am not sure, if the flooring went under the channel, because I had to pull it all up when I was looking for the bolts.

But, in 1964, did they put the flooring on before the shell, or after the shell?

I have no problem getting 5/8" wood, and I have no desire to put 3/4" where 5?8" should be.. but.. I have heard the flooring went under the channel, if it did not then, 5/8" will work.

Also, everyone says 3/4" wood... so..... what do I do..?

And how is your project comming, ya got the floor in yet, because we both have the same year, did you use 5/8" for your new floor?


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Old 01-17-2007, 05:42 PM   #15
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I think the floor was put on before the shell.

Why don't you take a small scrap of the plywood say 12" x 12" and see if it slides under the c channel?
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Old 01-17-2007, 05:49 PM   #16
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Some are definately 5/8" and some are 3/4", but I don't know when they changed. Seems like older ones are 5/8, newer 3/4. My '73 was 3/4". Have you tried a scrap piece of 5/8 just for grins? See how it fits in the channel? I'm trying to remember who has done a '50's model......Over 59 is one guy. A-Merry-Can is another. You might try looking at threads they've started and see what size they used.

Use the "Member Search" feature on the left of the portal page and look at the threads they have started. It'll give you some ideas.

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Old 01-17-2007, 06:16 PM   #17
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I checked my 71. The floor looks like 3/4. To ask a dumb question, I thought the floor goes in the channel not under it??

The 74 Service manual recommends replacing floor by:
1. remove no more than necessary. use as a template to cut new piece
2. use 4" wide strips for a butt joint gluing edges with a good wood glue. Screws every 2". Extend strips 2" beyond cut out area
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Old 01-17-2007, 06:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall
I checked my 71. The floor looks like 3/4. To ask a dumb question, I thought the floor goes in the channel not under it??
That's another one that depends on the year. Some years ('73, for example) use a "C" channel that the floor slides into. Other years used different types of channel. I can't remember what all of the different varieties are, but it's on the site someplace. Safari-Tim also posted some pictures and information on this subjuct on his site. Look at theVAP - The Vintage Airstream Podcast - Home It was the subject of one of the episodes, IIRC.

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Old 01-17-2007, 06:41 PM   #19
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I have a '64 Overlander too, and the floor is definitely 5/8", and I'm pretty sure the vinyl tiles did not go under the C-channel. I just did the same replacement as you (more details) although only the last 2 feet of the floor.

I did it by removing the belly skin between the frame rails, although if I wasn't into the belly skin anyway to get at the black tank I could've used self-tapping screws from above. I did it in two sections, one left & right, and slid one into the corner, then put the other one into the corner, overlapping a little bit right in the middle, and shoved them in until they were side-by-side. I guess if I had remove the banana wrap I could've put it in from outside in one piece, but I decided I didn't want to mess with it. I can't see how you could put in a single piece that was the full width of the trailer from inside - how could you simultaneously get it under both sides of the C-channel?

My suggestion if I'm understanding your situation right would be, 1) measure the actual height of the floor between the frame and C-channel, and 2) install it in two section and join them together underneath. Again if I'm understanding you right, you plan to put the black tank under the floor from above, which seems a lot more difficult than just dropping some of the belly skin to put it in from underneath - but I may be confused.
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Old 01-17-2007, 06:49 PM   #20
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On mine the C-channel sits on top of the floor. The floor doesn't slide into anything in particular, it just goes under the channel and is bolted & screwed to it. In places the frame extends right to the edge of the trailer and so the floor is sandwiched between the frame and C-channel. Across the very back of the trailer, in mine anyway, there is a flat piece of steel going between the frame rails under the C-channel and the floor, channel, and this flat piece are all bolted together there.
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