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Old 10-24-2010, 03:28 PM   #99
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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That sucks, but I am gonna be needing that panel too... mine is cracked.
I am planning to pull mine off, take a mould and make a fiberglass replacement... a lot of work, and I respect those here that sell them, but being out of work, cash is limited and I have more time than money!

I am pretty sure they are ABS tho, so if the edges can me made to match, and get close, i think you can fix it.
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:44 PM   #100
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Not really connected, but part of the recent lack of progress was this...
My new garage floor!



Just the Rustoleum kit with the clearcoat, but I am pleased with the new dust free finish!

Also, I finally found my MIG Welder...
A Snap-On SL140... Only a 110V unit, but should do pretty much everything I want to do myself or at home.



Also I have the Optional Aluminum Spool Gun to Mig Aluminum and a DC TIG Gun for steel, cast iron etc.
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:18 PM   #101
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1983 31' Airstream310
Cactus Hug , Arizona
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Nice looking garage floor! Thanks for the Google suggestion; a ton of good stuff in there. Figured on building a cradle & jig when we get to our winter site in Ajo and try to re-align everything before the repair. Note: avoid vultures
taking off in front off you, they weigh around 20-30 pounds!
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:50 PM   #102
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Thats pretty banged up.
My front corners are both cracked around the bumper and turn lanps, and my front bumper is slightly tweeked too... did see it until I got it home... I can fix it tho!
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Old 10-29-2010, 10:51 AM   #103
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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All good news this week for a change!
A trip to the local Junkyard revealed a GMC Sierra 3500 Pickup with a BBC, with what looked like all the Emissions stuff intact!
I pulled the Airfilter, plasic intake pipe, heat riser pipes, smog pump and all of the hoses I could possibly find. The Carb was gone, so I was not able to label where it all went. As always the air injection pipes into the manifolds were not coming out intact, so I snapped the fitting to the pipes(they look like nonreturn valves) off at the manifolds.
The pulley on the smog pump is bent, but I think I can straighten it.
Total spent... $43, oh plus $2 entry!

I found what I think is the correct Rochester 4BB carb on Ebay, and it looks in good shape.


I plan on rebuilding it if I need to use it, but am kinda loathed to take off what I have as the M/H runs so strong and gave 8mpg, so it must be pretty good.

So, a visit to ROCKAUTO online surprised me with a pair of brand new manifold injection pipes shipped to my door for $66... One of them was on "closeout" for $15, and the other was $30... $18 shipping tho, cos it came from 2 locations. What is fun, is that the new injection pipes dont come with the valves I salvaged at the JY!
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Old 10-29-2010, 10:55 AM   #104
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Oh, and my GF replaced my Digital Camera... well, in fact I got an upgrade!
Great Girl!

Pics of my JY treasure coming later!
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:45 PM   #105
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The PO had stripped and part polished the front, and it needs mopre work, so a trip to HF gave me some POWER!
And yes, I took the 2 year replacement plan!
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:02 AM   #106
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Still working on the Spare tire cover and fixing some cosmetics... the worn thru corner is still ongoing, and I just put another smear of slurry on, and waiting for it to fully harden takes a few days. I am gonna post some pics of the fiberglass reinforcement I put on the lower cracked areas later...

In trhe meantime, I have been working on some other stuff!
Here is a pic of the way some PO modded the underbed area...
I need some input on how it should look and if this stock?
I have a bunch of electrical stuff where I think the correct 80 gallon FW tank should be....
Note the 15G tank...


Here is a closeup of the box I think needs to move..


I found this piece of wiring floating around in the area too... anyone know what its for(maybe FW tank level cable)?


Here is a shot of the water damaged floor in the rear corner..
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:55 PM   #107
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Bump...
Anyone got ideas?

Anyway, I have been a busy Bee!

Repaired the rust holes in the brake lamp, and found some odd stuff...
Is it normaly wire so that both filaments of the bulb come on together?

I was looking at the way this lamp is... A dual filament bulb with a gloss black reflector?
Seemed stupid, so I lined the reflector with a reflective tape... 100% brighter on the bulb, and also the relector ring works much better too!

Still working on the paintwork of the tire cover... filling small scratches, and primered again.
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Old 11-14-2010, 01:26 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Bump...
Anyone got ideas?

Anyway, I have been a busy Bee!

Repaired the rust holes in the brake lamp, and found some odd stuff...
Is it normaly wire so that both filaments of the bulb come on together?

I was looking at the way this lamp is... A dual filament bulb with a gloss black reflector?
Seemed stupid, so I lined the reflector with a reflective tape... 100% brighter on the bulb, and also the relector ring works much better too!

Still working on the paintwork of the tire cover... filling small scratches, and primered again.

I can't tell for sure without tracing some wires but my AS has a box with a similar relay that is an automatic transfer switch from shore power to generator. It looks like the large black cable leading through the floor might be the shore power cable and the smaller cable on the opposite side could lead to the generator and the romax on the left side going to the breaker box. It's just a guess but might give you a direction to start looking.

Good luck, Dan
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:14 AM   #109
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Speedway , Indiana
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Keyair,
Wow, I can't believe what some people will do to a motorhome!
Too bad the 80 gallon FW tank is gone. The small wiring harness you show is the harness for the water level probes. The electrical box is the switch over box for Shore/Gen power. There should be a small vertical wall that closes off the storage area on the street side from the FW tank. You can see the difference in the floor where it was. The electrical box mounts on that wall so it is in the storage area.
You can let the wood floor dry out and then paint it so water can no longer soak into it.
If I can, I will try to get you some pictures of how it was/should be.
Rob
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:27 PM   #110
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Keyair,
Here are some pictures of how your 345 started out. The street side rear storage compartment has the electrical box attached to the divider wall. The rear end of the compartment is open to the pump and level sensor area.
The 80 gallon FW tank would take up all the area between the divider wall you are missing, and the isle side divider wall shown in your picture. (Under the bed) We have 3 pull out storage bins under the bed on the isle side.
Hope this helps.
Rob
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:32 PM   #111
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Good call Smartstream, you were right!
Rob, thats simply awesome!
Now I can begin to see what I need to do!
In fact, looking at my master pic, I can see the holes in the bed rail where the wall was screwed in!
It just didnt make sense to me where you could fit a 80G tank!

Mine has drop down doors that open on the isle side..
The wood is soft and braeking up... what should I paint it with... did I read somewhere ther is something that will soak in and bond it together?
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:41 AM   #112
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There is . Rot doc is one I have heard of and epoxy filler is anotherIf you search the forums with those key words you will come up with more info.
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