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Old 02-02-2011, 09:21 PM   #161
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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Found rubber on McMaster Carr.... So unless anyone has other suggestions, will get it there!

Life is never dull in my home...
Teenage kids never learn....
Yeeeeh!
I know, lets drive my Honda Accord offroad at speed...
Until I find a waiting rock...
Oooppps!



Oh, and then lets keep driving it and ignore the oil smoke and warning lamps until the Motor is toast!

Used Motor swap...






And back in again...


Just in case anyone thinks I am being lazy with my Airstream work!
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Old 02-05-2011, 11:31 PM   #162
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Job done!

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Old 02-06-2011, 10:25 AM   #163
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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Good job, Hope she runs good
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Old 02-06-2011, 11:04 AM   #164
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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Yep, Started first time!



Felt good, I have not worked on anything this modern!
I had to drop the whole assy out the bottom of the car, while it was raised on my Kwicklift... There is a massive subframe below the motor that supports it and all the suspension too... So a ton more disassembly than I realized!
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Old 02-06-2011, 06:56 PM   #165
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Key West , Florida
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Now that thing is smooth running with a miller on it and it is not even foaming!
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:06 AM   #166
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Seems to run fine, and hope to get it out of my hair today!
My house move last year cost me a lot of lost time...
I have a backlog of stuff holding me up!

I found this stunning 1991 190E 2.6 for my Daughter, with 88k miles from new.
Just needed fluids and some hoses changed.




Check out how clean the Engine internals are for 20 years!



Refinished the peeling Valve cover


Now this looks much better...


Put Euro headlamps in to replace the horrible US style plastic units..


On my Airstream, now just waiting for my 500lb Drawer slides to arrive for the Genset and battery tray projects!
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:17 AM   #167
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Key West , Florida
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Keyair are you plan on having your gen slide out to work on it? What about the muffler system are you going to have to disconnect it each time to open? Those clamp fittings on it are a real pain I just put a new muffler on mine.
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Old 02-07-2011, 12:01 PM   #168
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Yes, thats the plan.
As I stated a while back, I had as bad oil leak from the Kholer unit... its where the oil drain and dipstick pipe enters the crank case. The whole bottom plate is an oily gritty disaster, and also all of the insulation is a crumbly mess. I will have to pull the unit out to do the job properly.



Brad did the slides job, so following his lead here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...eak-64381.html

From what I see, I would have to release the 2 downpipe clamps(The Kohler is a twin cyl) before the unit would slide out(Mine keep falling off anyway!).


Its not possible to unscrew the pipe from the crankcase due to the oil drain oulet hitting the engine mount, but I plan to do away with that and have the oil drain on the outside.


I need to replace the fuel line and filter anyway, and might have to extend or disconnect electrical wires.
It seems a small amount of work now for making future work easier.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:52 AM   #169
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1977 28' Argosy 28
Lyngby , Denmark
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Thanks a lot for this very informative thread
and for taking the time and effort to post it,
including all the photos.
Very helpful ( and entertaining ) for all,
and maybe in particular for a guy like me who
probably will encounter some of the same problems as you
( My ARGOSY )


Keep up the good work and
Best of luck Keyair !
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:28 AM   #170
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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Thanks Lars, I have been watching your thread too!
Awesome English too!
I think I missed something tho... is the Argosy back in Denmark yet?

I am an old hand at this forum thing for projects..
Keyspider for my Alfa Romeo's... Keyblazer, and Keydodge for my Chevy trucks and 6x6 Dodge van.. Merkey for my Mercedes stuff..
Pictures are so important to a thread, as I am a visual person, so I use a lot!

At this rate, this thread will be 500 pages long before I am done!

Oh, yesterdays fun was doing a transmission swap on my son's '92 Honda Civic... I hate that car, and I am still hurting today, and feeling my 50 years....

Today, I have a day to myself... after walking the dogs to release some muscle aches, I am planning to make a pressure test rig for my Airstream Aux heater core!
More later!
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:39 AM   #171
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1977 Argosy 28
1977 28' Argosy 28
Lyngby , Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
...
I think I missed something tho... is the Argosy back in Denmark yet?
No no no no no no no

.-)

...and it never will come to Denmark.
It's to be my American home away from home...on wheels

See here for explanation: INTRO
( Scroll down a bit )

That'll explain how I'm a motorhead like you
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:17 PM   #172
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Ok, Got it!
Sounds perfect to me!
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Old 02-12-2011, 01:33 PM   #173
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Any ideas or suggestions on how to "Pretty up" this mess..
It where the front furnace was replaced with the later version with the vertical vent.
Its just behind the entrance door.


I assume a patch, but a ton of idea passed thru my head to make the patch worthwhile.

1/ Another external 120V outlet...
2/ A "Doggy leash hook"...
3/ External shower head, or water hookup..
3/ External Propane hookup for outside cooking or BBQ..
Thoughts or ideas?

And just for fun... the rear furnace vent is just the same!
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:18 PM   #174
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Nobody has any ideas huh?

Moving on...
Further progress with the smog parts and the Aux heater.. see those threads!

Boxes are arriving...
Today is was 500lb rated "Full Extention" Drawer slides for the Battery Tray (26") upgrade, and Genset(20").

Happy Happy!

These 20" Genset slides are the largest you can fit from my measurements, and should give me access like Brad did, and I will make sure that they are secured with a bolt.



The 26" Battery slides should allow the drawer to pull out beyond where it did before, and I will be able to access the backs of the switches too.
Again I want to add a secondary failsafe locking stop.

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Old 02-16-2011, 07:39 PM   #175
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are they stainless ?
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:42 PM   #176
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No, but it says Zinc coated.
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:32 AM   #177
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choctaw , Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Any ideas or suggestions on how to "Pretty up" this mess..
It where the front furnace was replaced with the later version with the vertical vent.
Its just behind the entrance door.


I assume a patch, but a ton of idea passed thru my head to make the patch worthwhile.

1/ Another external 120V outlet...
2/ A "Doggy leash hook"...
3/ External shower head, or water hookup..
3/ External Propane hookup for outside cooking or BBQ..
Thoughts or ideas?

And just for fun... the rear furnace vent is just the same!
After my rear heater valve stuck and damaged the outer skin I scabbed, sealed and riveted a new piece of aluminum over the old opening then cup new vent holes.
mel
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:21 PM   #178
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I dont see a patch... Is it just right under the vent?

I like those sweet little mesh covers you have... where did you get them?

Looks like I need them too... signs of a hornets nest I saw in one of the pipes... looked old but I want to CMA!
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Old 02-25-2011, 06:25 AM   #179
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Spencer , Indiana
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I replaced my rear furnace a few years ago. Look for my post on "Rear furnace". I had a stainless steel plate cut to cover the original furnace intake and exhaust holes. My front was done by a PO the same way. Looks factory. The screens are available at Camping World.
Rob
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:45 PM   #180
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Longview , Washington
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It does have an unusual layout...
My wife and I are buying one, and it does not have as many closets - across the kitchen is the dinette, and where the dinette is in yours, there are 2 swivel chairs...

So how is it going with towing the Jeep?

I am planning 1 of 2 options for ours:
Option 1: Tow the Wrangler TJ - but my tow-bar "set-up" is much more simple. It's a $100 un-fancy tow bar from Auto Zone with safety chains and magnet mount towing lights.

Tow bar:
Tow Bar | AutoZone.com

Lights:
Reese/Red and black magnetic base tow light kit (73864) | Trailer Light Kit | AutoZone.com

As for backing up with the dinghy - I did it while towing the same TJ with our 1986 Dodge Caravan, but it was VERY tricky - and I sure would NEVER attempt that while it's being pulled with the 345, 'cause I can't see the Jeep, so I don't know what it's doing...

Option 2: This one I am meeting some technical opposition on here on the AS boards, and happy for the input too. I want to take a 31' AS trailer, cut the rear dome off, cut the separated rear dome in half, vertivally, gut out the inside of the trailer, build a new front bedroom with a tripple bunk bed, desk, closet and dresser, move the bathroom (not the tanks) further forward, build a dividing wall forward of the axles, hinge the now 2-piece rear dome to open "barn-door style", and pull the Jeep TJ in from the back and park over the axles.

How cool it that going to look, going down the highway - the silver 345 pulling a silver 31' or bigger (32' or 34') - but people on here that have more AS experience than I are balking at the idea, stating that I must re-enforce the frame, and that I may exceed the max weight limit for the AS trailer...

Oh, well...

Another guy suggested starting with a car-trailer, and putting an old AS shell on that - grand idea... But expensive(er) than starting with a $2,000 AS trailer that is in dire need of TLC, and doing my rebuild.

We'll just have to see...

The reason I even responded to this old thread, is wanting to know how the Jeep is doing on the tow bar - BECAUSE - on another thread I was reading, someone was saying that "With the big overhang of our 345 going through dips and swales the dolly does not stress the motorhome frame. The tow bars are short enough that the motorhome can actually try to lift the car off the ground."
(see http://www.airforums.com/forums/f160...hem-66806.html)

So - have you had any trouble towing the Jeep on a tow bar?
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