Ruined trip

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by Lineolated

Why the vinyl tubing?

Because I used the Airstream adapter to go from 3.5” OD pipe to 3” OD diameter of macerated pump input. Airstream used a piece of flex hose in that location. But since I added the flex Tee fitting all I needed was a small pice of 3” hose to make last connection. Found it at auto part store sold as connector for custom engine intakes.

[Lineolated]

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

Because I used the Airstream adapter to go from 3.5” OD pipe to 3” OD diameter of macerated pump input. Airstream used a piece of flex hose in that location. But since I added the flex Tee fitting all I needed was a small pice of 3” hose to make last connection. Found it at auto part store sold as connector for custom engine intakes.

Thanks for the explanation!

[Air99]

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

Because I used the Airstream adapter to go from 3.5” OD pipe to 3” OD diameter of macerated pump input. Airstream used a piece of flex hose in that location. But since I added the flex Tee fitting all I needed was a small pice of 3” hose to make last connection. Found it at auto part store sold as connector for custom engine intakes.

Thanks a bunch for the pics and the adapter, I reached same conclusion that a rubber T would work but could not find anything to mate it to the 3” pump end. Looking good AND peace of mind!

[Passin Thru]

Boxster- You and gmillerok1 did the modification to add the manual discharge to our macerator system. It sounds like neither one of you had to cutoff any part of the PVC.

I went to do the same mod using the PQT-300 flex-t as gmillerok1 did. When I insert the AS reducer into the PQT and the other end of the PQT over the PVC, the reducer overlaps the macerator inlet by about an 1 3/4". To get any room for a connector pipe/hose I would have to trim off about 2-3" of the PVC which I am hesitant to do. From the face of the PVC to the face of the macerator inlet is 9 3/4 inches. Excluding the connector ends, the flex t is 7 3/4" long so that only leaves 2 inches for the reducer and the hose connector. The AS reducer is 3 3/4 long.

Since you and I both have 2013's, I am surprised it doesn't fit. I checked plumbing supply houses and it sounds like the flex-t only comes in one length.

I suppose there is a chance my AS reducer is longer, or the PVC is longer, but by the pictures they appear the same.

I am grasping at straws, and it has been awhile since you did the mod, but I was hoping you might have some idea of the difference.

Thanks,

Tim

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by Passin Thru

Boxster- You and gmillerok1 did the modification to add the manual discharge to our macerator system. It sounds like neither one of you had to cutoff any part of the PVC.

I went to do the same mod using the PQT-300 flex-t as gmillerok1 did. When I insert the AS reducer into the PQT and the other end of the PQT over the PVC, the reducer overlaps the macerator inlet by about an 1 3/4". To get any room for a connector pipe/hose I would have to trim off about 2-3" of the PVC which I am hesitant to do. From the face of the PVC to the face of the macerator inlet is 9 3/4 inches. Excluding the connector ends, the flex t is 7 3/4" long so that only leaves 2 inches for the reducer and the hose connector. The AS reducer is 3 3/4 long.

Since you and I both have 2013's, I am surprised it doesn't fit. I checked plumbing supply houses and it sounds like the flex-t only comes in one length.

I suppose there is a chance my AS reducer is longer, or the PVC is longer, but by the pictures they appear the same.

I am grasping at straws, and it has been awhile since you did the mod, but I was hoping you might have some idea of the difference.

Thanks,

Tim

I did this a while ago - but recall I did have to cut the black 3" PVC pipe to get the Flex-T installed. The main problem was adapting the 3" PVC to the macerator. I ended up using a large vinyl tube fitting designed for an engine intake line from an auto parts shop.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

I did this a while ago - but recall I did have to cut the black 3" PVC pipe to get the Flex-T installed. The main problem was adapting the 3" PVC to the macerator. I ended up using a large vinyl tube fitting designed for an engine intake line from an auto parts shop.

MIKE - Nice work, I never seen it before, the thread was before I joined. I like to do this mod some day if I get needed special parts

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

MIKE - Nice work, I never seen it before, the thread was before I joined. I like to do this mod some day if I get needed special parts

Same here!

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by =Passin Thru

Boxster- You and gmillerok1 did the modification to add the manual discharge to our macerator system. It sounds like neither one of you had to cutoff any part of the PVC.

I went to do the same mod using the PQT-300 flex-t as gmillerok1 did. When I insert the AS reducer into the PQT and the other end of the PQT over the PVC, the reducer overlaps the macerator inlet by about an 1 3/4". To get any room for a connector pipe/hose I would have to trim off about 2-3" of the PVC which I am hesitant to do. From the face of the PVC to the face of the macerator inlet is 9 3/4 inches. Excluding the connector ends, the flex t is 7 3/4" long so that only leaves 2 inches for the reducer and the hose connector. The AS reducer is 3 3/4 long.

Since you and I both have 2013's, I am surprised it doesn't fit. I checked plumbing supply houses and it sounds like the flex-t only comes in one length.

I suppose there is a chance my AS reducer is longer, or the PVC is longer, but by the pictures they appear the same.

I am grasping at straws, and it has been awhile since you did the mod, but I was hoping you might have some idea of the difference.

Thanks,

Tim

As the guy who thought of this, the 2013 modification should be no different from the 2011 model I did the modification on. You basically just take the green 3 to 3.5" AS hand made and rather crude adapter on the end toward the tanks, to the end facing the macerator. It should fit without any cutting (I did not want to do anything that would not allow me to put it back the way it was in case it didn't work out).


Can you post some pictures of your modification? Maybe you left something on that I took off. With that being said, and with the AS builders not necessarily being consistent from one unit to the next, maybe we can figure out what your problem may be.

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by Passin Thru

Boxster- You and gmillerok1 did the modification to add the manual discharge to our macerator system. It sounds like neither one of you had to cutoff any part of the PVC.

I went to do the same mod using the PQT-300 flex-t as gmillerok1 did. When I insert the AS reducer into the PQT and the other end of the PQT over the PVC, the reducer overlaps the macerator inlet by about an 1 3/4". To get any room for a connector pipe/hose I would have to trim off about 2-3" of the PVC which I am hesitant to do. From the face of the PVC to the face of the macerator inlet is 9 3/4 inches. Excluding the connector ends, the flex t is 7 3/4" long so that only leaves 2 inches for the reducer and the hose connector. The AS reducer is 3 3/4 long.

Since you and I both have 2013's, I am surprised it doesn't fit. I checked plumbing supply houses and it sounds like the flex-t only comes in one length.

I suppose there is a chance my AS reducer is longer, or the PVC is longer, but by the pictures they appear the same.

I am grasping at straws, and it has been awhile since you did the mod, but I was hoping you might have some idea of the difference.

Thanks,

Tim

I just remembered I didn't use the flexible hose that AS used on that adapter to the tank. Go back to my original post to see the picture and you can see the green striped hose next to the macerator. Originally, the adapter went into a cheap PVC flexible hose if I recall on the opposite side and that into the rigid black PVC pipe to the tank. I removed that flexible hose, and then I bought a short length of Kanaflex 300 from a local hose supplier in the correct size and cut it to length. I then installed the adapter into the other end of the flex-t and the adapter into the Kanaflex, and then the Kanaflex into the macerator. I think I still have some left if you want me to send you some-let me know.

[Passin Thru]

I can’t post pictures since I only dry fitted it to test if it would work. I am waiting for a new macerator to finish the project (like many I found a broken bolt - decided to go new instead of doing a rebuild). However I definitely wasn’t leaving anything in. With just the flex t and the AS adapter coming from the rigid PVC it was overlapping the macerator.

Thanks for the offer on the hose. I will just get a piece of intake hose locally.

By the replies to my question it does sound like others had to cut the PVC. Maybe the later years were different.

BTW - I did know that you had done this mod first but I had addressed my question to Boxster since it has the same year coach as I do.

Thanks

[nateallen80]

Our Macerator failed day 2 of our Michigan Trip last week. Because of a mishap with the stub of the sink faucet opening the valve, we had a full grey tank and a small flooding issue (similar to what I’ve read others experience). What a pain. We resorted to public bathrooms and campground shower houses the entire trip. Other than this issue the trip was really great.

Back at home, I spent the last 3 nights getting the dead macerator off and a new one put on. After reviewing Advanced RVs YouTube videos on the topic, I decided to go with the portable version so down the road when I have to replace it again I can just swap it out fairly quickly. I did add the Fernco T with a gate valve and bayonet fitting for the bypass. The portable macerator also has the clean out garden hose adapter which I modified to reverse the flow so it can be a secondary grey water drain.

The grey mat under the macerator is anti fatigue mat material for vibration deadener and I strapped everything securely with large stainless hose clamps. I too had broken bolts where the orig macerator was attached. What a pain.

[Boxster1971]

NATEALLEN80 - good choice. I think the portable init that can be easily disconnected and changed out is the best macerator solution.

[Passin Thru]

I just installed my new Macerator pump along with the fernco t conversion. Now the new macerator is dripping where the impeller housing fits to the motor housing. There is a drip hole in the housing which is dripping. I am hoping a seal seats after a little bit of use. I have a call into flojet to see if this normal on a new pump.

Btw - I had to cut off 2 inches of the rigid pvc.

[nateallen80]

I went to the dump station to finally empty my tanks last night, and while the macerator turns on, nothing would pump out of the hose. I did not find any kinks in the hose. Its like it grinds, but the pump won't start. I didn't want to run it too long, so I did it in 10-15 second cycles, but nothing after several attempts. So frustrating. Any ideas?

[wachuko]

I mentioned meeting a couple in a 2017 AI that they purchased new... and then proceeded to travel for 65,000 miles in less than two years... and have done nothing to their AI, nothing except changing tires early on before their trip to Alaska and only as additional insurance...

Humbled conversation for me since I have done so many changes to try to avoid issues...

Which brings me to this situation... this is one that I do not want to ever have to deal with during a trip... I can't be working on this crap while on a trip. I need to do as some have done and install an alternate way to dump the tanks if we ever have a malfunction of the macerator... because of our infrequent use of the AI I am pretty certain ours will fail due to long periods of lack of use...

On my list of mods with a bit higher priority than anything else there now... need to figure out what all the parts are for a 2018 AI and start planning the changes...

Sorry for the interruption, back to normal programming...

[nateallen80]

Update: after spending my 7th straight night under the rig troubleshooting, it appears the problem with mine isn’t in the wiring or anything else, it’s the oem hose connection from the pump and through the reel.

I believe other than the outlet connection being 3/4 male garden hose on the version I installed vs the 1” barbed connection on the permanent install version, I believe they are the same pump (obviously I could be wrong). When connected to the 1” hose that the old pump was connected to (that I don’t have experience with working but was told it did in the few times the prior owner dumped (reportedly only about 5 times), nothing was pumped through the hose. When I disconnected that and attached a garden hose, it pumped perfectly.

Now I know the pump isn’t bad, but have a new project to figure out - how to deal with the hose reel (remove it I suppose), or do something else to make a more direct path for discharging the waste so it doesn’t have to feed up through the reel... any ideas are welcome.

[nateallen80]

Update 2: I removed the stock hose from the pump to the reel assembly and from the inside of the reel assembly itself. I re-used one of the clamps that formerly clamped the hose into the reel assembly, but left only the back portion of the clamp screwed to the reel assembly. The clamp now acts as a "hook" to hook in the female end of a garden hose to the reel, which I use to reel up about 20' of garden hose into the reel for storage only.

I pull the entire length of garden hose out and screw it into the male threads of the pump (actually I have 2 angled elbow fittings so as to make the threads closer to the side of the AI. Once screwed on, I use as normal to dump the tanks, then unscrew the hose, hook it into the clamp (now hook), then reel it all up.

At the business end of the hose, I re-created the stock ball valve with elbow down into the dump pit.

While a pain in the A$% to figure out, I actually like the setup of this just fine and know it will be easier to maintain going forward. If my hose starts leaking, I'll just buy a new hose and I'm good to go. All is good in the world once again.

[Mansderm161]

Are you sure the black and gray valves are opening? My gray valve motor died and the valve would not open until we removed motor and opened it manually. Usually when you open the valve, you will hear fluid flowing to the macerator. If you don't hear that, the valve may not be opening

[nateallen80]

Originally Posted by Mansderm161

Are you sure the black and gray valves are opening? My gray valve motor died and the valve would not open until we removed motor and opened it manually. Usually when you open the valve, you will hear fluid flowing to the macerator. If you don't hear that, the valve may not be opening

Mansderm161 - Not sure if this was a question for me or not. Yes, my valves open and close fine. I was able to visually see the gate valve pins were extended and retracted after opening and closing them using the switches. My issue apparently was the amount of elevation change between the pump and the hose before it left the reel assembly.

I could have continued to try to see if I could find an obstruction in the hose, or try to make a straight as possible connection from the pump to the reel, but I figured I'd have to replace the 7 year old hose sooner rather than later anyway and I would have probably replaced it with the garden hose system I ended up with, especially after having replaced all that I did to make it simpler to replace parts as necessary.

I'm pretty happy as it is - the only additional step I have is to twist on the female garden hose end to the male threads coming off the discharge side of the pump, which takes all of 15 seconds. I now have just a bit more peace of mind having literally rebuilt everything from basically the gate valves outward.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by nateallen80

I could have continued to try to see if I could find an obstruction in the hose, or try to make a straight as possible connection from the pump to the reel, but I figured I'd have to replace the 7 year old hose sooner rather than later anyway and I would have probably replaced it with the garden hose system I ended up with, especially after having replaced all that I did to make it simpler to replace parts as necessary.

I'm pretty happy as it is - the only additional step I have is to twist on the female garden hose end to the male threads coming off the discharge side of the pump, which takes all of 15 seconds. I now have just a bit more peace of mind having literally rebuilt everything from basically the gate valves outward.

NATEALLEN80 - I like your approach to this repair. Of course, I won't do this until/unless it is necessary. But when the time comes (hoping at least to get the 7yrs. you got), I will probably do as you did. Bypassing that short section from macerator to hose reel input probably decreases a big potential problem area. And then using the hose reel just for storage also eliminates that as a potential problem. I am unsure how long a garden hose will hold up before it leaks at the connector ends. But then again, as you said, just buy a new one. I have my favorite rubber garden hoses used around the house that lasts forever & remain soft, pliable, kink free under extreme heat and freezing temps. I would love to use those. The only thing I would miss is the semi-transparent OEM hose. But that is easily fixed by fabricating my own clear pvc valve elbow instead of the OEM white. Thanks for this idea/option.