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Old 01-09-2023, 01:57 PM   #41
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I see we're reviving an old post so I'll chip in. One reason a hitch ball nut can loosen is if the shaft does not fit tight to the hole, this will allow it to move back and forth in the hole as you stop and start which loosens the nut.
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Old 01-10-2023, 07:04 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxite View Post

Just be aware that it’s not necessary to weld the entire circumference nor to “over-do” this. You only need to stop the ball and nut from turning with a small amount of weldment….which will also become the “witness mark” …should that weld ever crack or fail.

(Why is it that the internet makes such “experts” on welding or metallurgy out of people who are accountants or grocery-clerks in their day-jobs…or who are even quality-control engineers at Lockheed-Martin suddenly trailer-hitch experts?)

Welding, or cotter-pins, or witness-marks are all within the purview of ordinary owners and do not violate simple good-sense.
I have seen high carbon tools break after they have been repaired by welding, not at the repair but next to it due to embrittlement. I have seen truck and trailer frames crack after welding not at the repair but next to it due to embrittlement. I have seen tires explode due to welding on rims or lug nuts with tire mounted. Sure a tack weld to stop a nut from turning may be OK but putting a lot of heat into any metal will change it's properties, for better or for worse. And novice weldors tend to either under or over do a weld. Not a professional weldor but been at it since high school with 1 year of vocational study after that and know enough that I won't weld on anything that goes on the road even though I get asked to do it.
I guess the reason I would not do it is not because I am a metallurgist, but because I am not a metallurgist.
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Old 01-10-2023, 08:04 AM   #43
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I've tightened a lot of hitch balls and replaced several at rally's. If I have all of my stuff I'll use a paint marker pen and put a paint strip across the nut and on to the threads. This marks its position (no it's not for retention purposes) creating a witness line. If the line no longer is inline yup, it's loosened. Hasn't happened to mine. No paint marker? I bet nail polish would work just don't tell her why you need it.
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Old 01-10-2023, 08:18 AM   #44
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While lubrication has been brought-up in this thread…I have not personally greased my hitch-ball ever and not suffered any heartburn over this (or stained pant-legs either)….but an interesting suggestion by another Airstreamer is interesting…. He places a circular-cut-section of plastic milk-jug (think the lower-corner of a squarely-shaped jug) over his ball instead of grease.

He says it works GREAT. He replaces it with a new one every trip, and enjoys no creaking/groaning or dirty pant-legs.
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Old 01-10-2023, 02:07 PM   #45
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We use fingernail polish witness marks all the time on our AS, cars, bicycles; it can also be used as a thread locker in a pinch.

If you are uncertain of your lock washer holding the nut tight, just take a punch and "distort" the threads right below the juncture of the nut and threaded shaft... no need to weld the nut. The bent thread can still be easily defeated with a bit more torque on the nut if need be - to replace the ball.
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Old 01-10-2023, 05:23 PM   #46
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Besides just proper torque on the ball...it might be useful to look at the WD hitch overall.

Is the WD hitch properly setup, i.e. not an exorbitant amount of WD tension is dialed in?

If you consider how much leverage one needs to apply 450 ft/lbs of torque on the ball/nut, then consider how much leverage a trailer frame can apply in a turn, it is well beyond that. An exorbitant amount of WD tension without proper grease may just allow the coupler enough purchase on the ball to loosen anything.
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Old 01-11-2023, 08:43 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pteck View Post
Besides just proper torque on the ball...it might be useful to look at the WD hitch overall.

Is the WD hitch properly setup, i.e. not an exorbitant amount of WD tension is dialed in?

If you consider how much leverage one needs to apply 450 ft/lbs of torque on the ball/nut, then consider how much leverage a trailer frame can apply in a turn, it is well beyond that. An exorbitant amount of WD tension without proper grease may just allow the coupler enough purchase on the ball to loosen anything.
Thats a great point...never heard of not putting any lubricant on the ball..but I learn something here most days. My friend has a spray lubricant he uses on his ball; no mess he says; but I am old fashioned I guess...if it ain't messy with some grease I ain't sure it has enough lubricant!
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Old 01-11-2023, 11:14 AM   #48
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It was never tight… if it was it wouldn’t back off. In 50 years of towing trailers I have never had one ever come loose. When I put one on I use a 3/4 drive ratchet and 3/4 drive air wrench.
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Old 01-11-2023, 08:03 PM   #49
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put a real stout air tool on it
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