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**moosetags** · 02-23-2015, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Hm. That's what came with mine over a year ago. Got it on sale at Camping World.

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I was not aware of that. The Sewer Solutions used to come with a soft rubber sewer adapter that only accommodated two different size sewer dumps. Peeling off the outer rubber grommet to expose the smaller one is sometimes difficult, especially in colder temperatures.

I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but I think that this new adapter is going to be more versatile and easier to use.

Brian

**moosetags** · 02-23-2015, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silverbee

So, Brian, where did you find it?

I found it on Amazon while doing a search to see what the price for a new Sewer Solution was. This adapter was $19.64 on Amazon Prime.

Brian

**moosetags** · 02-23-2015, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

Do you find the 10' length for the Sewer Solution long enough or do you also carry an extension.

Kelvin

It has been our experience that the ten foot hose connected to the Sewer Solution unit handles the job about 80% of the time. When I do need a longer sewer hose, one additional ten foot length almost always does the trick.

Being an overly-prepared kind of guy, I carry two additional ten foot lengths of Sewer Solution hose. This gives me a total of 40 feet of sewer reach. I use this extra length primarily at home home to reach my sewer clean-out.

I did use this extra length last summer in Katy, Texas when our site reservation got messed up and the only site that was left was a front-in moho site. We were able to use this site thanks to our extra Sewer Solution hose, 30' extension cord for our 30 amp connection, and an additional 25' fresh water hose. This stay actually turned out well for us as the campground gave us our three night stay without charge as they had messed up our reservation.

Brian

KJRitchie · 02-23-2015, 08:30 AM

I wish I could find my house sewer clean out. I think the Sewer Solution would be great to have to flush out my waste tanks at home with the AS parked in the front driveway. I guess I'll have to get in the crawl space to see where the sewer comes into the house but crawl spaces creep me out.

Kelvin

**moosetags** · 02-23-2015, 08:49 AM

You may be able to see the main sewer drain line heading into the ground by looking into the crawl space with a flash light. Once you have determined which way the line is headed, start digging around outside the the house line and find the line. The clean-out is most often within a few feet on the house. If you can find the sewer line and there no clean-out installed, you should have a plumber out to install one. You need to do this not only to be able to dump your Airstream at home, but to be able to correct plumbing problems at the house. Most local building codes require and accessible sewer clean-out, but sometimes builders have been known to cut corners and not install one. This is especially true where building inspections are known to be lax.

Brian

**moosetags** · 02-23-2015, 03:52 PM

This is the type of sewer connector that used to come with the Sewer Solution kits.

Brian

Gene · 02-23-2015, 04:15 PM

"Enhanced" water leaking out of hose ends in the back of your truck does not have to be a problem. The slinky we use (called Revolution and bought at Walmart about 5 years ago) has water tights end caps and they really don't leak. For a garden hose style, there are plastic caps that can fit on the end. They are sold in RV stores and though I bought some for the fresh water hoses to keep water from coming out of them, I never have actually used them. I'll get around to it. I'm sure threaded caps can be found in plumbing or garden stores that will fit—basically I just screw the 2 ends together, but for Sewer Solution, I have no idea if you can screw it together.

We keep hoses in two separate plastic containers. After a couple of seasons they crack (especially when I throw them on the ground) and duct tape will keep them going. I never find any water, enhanced or not, in the bottom of the sewer box.

Gene

**moosetags** · 02-23-2015, 05:23 PM

Our extra Sewer Solution hoses are stored with their ends interlocked with each other, so leaking is not an issue. We also interlock ends of our water hoses. we use quick connects, so this is easy to do. Admittedly, the main Sewer Solution hose is stored uncapped, but it has never created a problem.

Brian

remphoto · 02-24-2015, 08:18 PM

We are considering the purchase of a 25FB Twin and have found this thread very helpful. A question: Is the 25FB prone to dragging its tail when pulling into sloped driveways? We had a 31' Brand X trailer many years ago and this was often a problem when pulling into gas stations and certain sloped driveways. I am hoping the shorter length of the 25FB makes this less of an issue. What has been your experiences? Thanks!

**moosetags** · 02-24-2015, 08:37 PM

Tail dragging has never been a problem for us in our extensive travel.

Welcome to the Forums. We're glad to have you with us.

Brian

rmkrum · 02-24-2015, 10:22 PM

Honestly, it does take a little planning with our 22' dual axle. It's more often a turning radius issue, though. Ramps take a careful look, but I usually drag the ProPride WD bars more than the AS itself. Truck stops are very easy. Suburban gas stations can be an issue. I refuel at about 1/2 tank to allow time for a careful look before I try to pull in.

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Oregon Ms · 02-25-2015, 11:33 AM

Hi. I think I need to subscribe to this thread. Safe travels, all.

Gene · 02-25-2015, 12:00 PM

When I looked at the angle of departure on the 25', I thought tail dragging might be a problem, but we've never had a problem. Going slowly helps avoid the bouncing that can making it problem. The key is being careful. Only once have I driven over a curb turning into a driveway and that was early in our trailering time.

Remember, there are skids under the bumper to ameliorate any dragging. It protects the bumper (which is pretty flimsy) and the undercarriage. Some people put wheels on the skids, but others advise it is not good for the trailer. The reasoning for that escapes me, but it made sense when I read it.

If I had a steeper driveway, I'd be more concerned, but ours is pretty steep and I can't detect any dragging.

Gene

KJRitchie · 02-25-2015, 12:05 PM

I too am concerned with tail dragging. I'm very careful to monitor entrances to gas stations and I'll approach slow and at an angle if possible or go to another station. I'm also concerned with road debris and rough roads. My waste and water tank shells hang pretty low.

Kelvin

**moosetags** · 02-26-2015, 12:28 PM

I have also always been very careful about checking driveways that I am about to enter with the Airstream. On a number of occasions I have scraped the bottom side of the Hensley on dipping driveways. In all or our extensive Airstream travel, I have yet to (knock on wood) ever scrape the rear of the Airstream.

Brian

dbj216 · 02-26-2015, 06:26 PM

I dragged the tail of my 34 Limited several years ago. It was totally my fault for not planning ahead. The fuel station was easy to get into, but the convenient exit had a steep slope to it. I should have backed out, but being lazy I went for it. I scrapped on the angle iron skids pretty good. Luckily no damage noted. A 34 is so long that it doesn't take a whole lot of angle before the rear starts to drag. Live and learn.

I think a 25 footer would handle steeper inclines / declines. I suppose the angle is a straight edge from the bottom of the rear tire to the bottom of the rear bumper of our trailers. The 34 footer has a longer rear overhang, thus a shallower angle before it starts to scrap.

David

Msmoto · 02-27-2015, 02:52 AM

My guess about not putting wheels on the skids is this would cause the tail to hit sooner. And the trailer may be designed to carry weight from the center, near the holding tanks, while hitting the tail creates a tongue weight of half the gross trailer weight or in my case about 3600 lbs. What is the point of wheels? The skid will not be damaged by an occasional hit.

However, I simply do not go into fueling stations where a potential problem exists. This may be a discussion of gas vs diesel in the TV as I usually am going into truck stops where the entrances are almost always quite easy.

GLovedahl · 02-27-2015, 06:17 PM

Hey Moosetags, after reading your posts about the Sewer Solution, I ordered one today, along with the better sewer cap and a 25' extension. We're going down to Austin for a week later this month, and since I've never used the Sewer Solution I thought it might be a good idea to take the old sewer stuff along just in case I have a problem the first time. We've only spent three nights in Peggy Sue so far, so I still have a lot to learn. This discussion is fantastic. Now I'm contemplating 16" LT tires, but that might have to wait. Thanks for all the good info.

**moosetags** · 02-27-2015, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLovedahl

Hey Moosetags, after reading your posts about the Sewer Solution, I ordered one today, along with the better sewer cap and a 25' extension. We're going down to Austin for a week later this month, and since I've never used the Sewer Solution I thought it might be a good idea to take the old sewer stuff along just in case I have a problem the first time. We've only spent three nights in Peggy Sue so far, so I still have a lot to learn. This discussion is fantastic. Now I'm contemplating 16" LT tires, but that might have to wait. Thanks for all the good info.

When you get set up to use your Sewer Solution, you will also want to have a hose splitter so that you will be able to have one hose that you can hook to the city water inlet on the Airstream and another to the Sewer Solution.

Brian

rmkrum · 02-27-2015, 07:13 PM

Uh, not a good idea. Please use another hose dedicated to 'utility' use and split it at the campground spigot. Keep sewer solution flush far, far away from potable water connections, even though the sewer solution has an anti-back flow fitting on it.

Can't be too careful, IMHO.

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