Blue Ox chain stuck

[BayouBiker]

I suppose it's possible my chain is wider than most, it is 1.18 inches and the gap is 1.03 inches.

[jeffmc306]

drlangc, first things first: Welcome to the Airstream Community and Forums. I see this is your first post. Hopefully one of many to come.

All good tips so far: raise tongue jack, make sure the chain is vertical.

I’ll offer another tip I figured out when disconnecting - take the loose end of the chain and toss it over the bracket. It gets the chain out of the way and moving in the right direction. Your mileage may vary but it works for me.

[drlangc]

Thanks for the many responses. I have tried a number of the suggestions already made - raising up the tongue all the way with the power jack, lubricating the cam area, attempting to twist the links, etc. I do think the problem is the size of the link itself and the narrowness of the gap, so perhaps, as some were saying that older models of BO did not have this problem, but it may be that the current links are a bit larger. (I just purchased mine in March) I don’t have a measuring tape handy, but will check the size when I get back home. In the meantime, I’m happy to hear any additional suggestions folks may have.

[dbj216]

Today I measured the distance between the plates on my rotary pull up at 1.26, or a little over an inch and a quarter.

I measured my chain width at 1.16 at the welded joint, or a little over a inch and a eighth.

There is clearance between the plates for my chain, like an eighth of an inch. So why does it bind.?

I watched my chain bind with very little force on the chain as my hitch was jacked way up. I saw a link get stuck on the head of the "pivot pin" on the inner plate. That pivot pin head is maybe an eighth of an inch, thus taking up any chain clearance I had. The pivot pin is exactly where Blue Ox wants our chains located; in the center of the rotary pull up and straight below it.

This may explain why twisting the chain may take the link in front of the pivot pin head and turned it 90 degrees so it can't get caught.

I don't have a solution yet. I wish the head of the pivot pin was shaped like a rounded carriage head bolt so there wouldn't be a square edge to catch the chain link. I haven't measured the actual clearance between the head of the pivot pin and the opposite plate yet.

I also observed my spring bars are not necessarily well aligned with the A frame rails as I hitched up with the truck not perfectly aligned with the trailer. Thus the chain is not directly below the rotary pull up. A miss aligned chain may contribute to the binding. I must say I am probably seldom in perfect alignment. Can't back my trailer up worth a darn.

Maybe you folks have observed something else.

David

[Fair_Enough]

I don't think a single chain link is wide enough to jam, but from simple drawing I did, two links can produce more width is one is twisted slightly. But from memory (what was I saying??) the links looked straight as it was jammed. An 1/8" is a whole lot of clearance. That my story. What does BO tell you. I think they can solve this. Good company.

WW

[Gene]

Besides the binding chain issue, how do you feel about the Blue Ox as a weight distributing, sway control hitch? I liked the Equalizer better, but I was towing a different trailer, so my experience is not apples to apples.

[sheriff1]

Originally Posted by Gene

Besides the binding chain issue, how do you feel about the Blue Ox as a weight distributing, sway control hitch? I liked the Equalizer better, but I was towing a different trailer, so my experience is not apples to apples.

I used both blue ox and equalizer on the same truck/trailer combination, I like the equalizer better. Just my opinion...

[dbj216]

Here is a photo of my chain link jammed on the rotary pull up pivot pin head. This is the spot where my chain gets caught. I will measure the clearance between the head of the pivot pin and see if it is narrower than the width of the chain link. It looks like it is.

So far my stuck chain issue is on the curb side, not the street side. The rotary pull ups are identical, there is no "left and right" side. This means the slot for the chain points forward on the curb side, and points backwards on the street side.

I observed when I want to "unroll" the chain on the curb side, the spring bar keeps the chain tight. When I unroll the chain on the street side, the spring bar helps me pull the chain away.

One possible solution for me is to grind maybe a 1/16" off the link just below the slot link I use to provide the necessary clearance. It would weaken the chain, but not by much.

David

[dbj216]

Hello Gene from Grand Junction: My Blue Ox is brand new and I have little experience with it so far. I did a "test tow" of my Overlander 27' with it and was impressed. I towed down 7% grades at 55 mph with turns and experience no sway tendency. I pulled it on C-470, bumpy concrete at all, and it was very solid behind me. I backed my trailer up hill into my shop with no clanks or squeaks, and no hitch dragging. So far, so good.

I have towed with a Reese dual cam, Pro Pride, Fastway "equalizer" style friction hitch, and the old Overlander hitch with no sway control, only weight distribution. I wanted to try the Blue Ox and find it good so far.

It is a bit slower to hitch up as a guy needs to jack up the trailer and tow vehicle almost to the extent of the tongue jack to easily wind up the spring bars. Same with unhitching. But I do this with my Pro Pride and the Fastway too, just not to the same extent.

I would recommend the Blue Ox sway pro to a friend.

David

[TravisH]

Hi,

Mine constantly stuck and unhitching was an "adventure".

Even had a BO "pro" help me once and we both almost got whipped! He jumped back scratching his head and had no further advise as my set up was text book.

While yes you have to raise the hitch enough to take tension you may also have to rotate back to get the pin to release and this can put enough tension to whip back unexpectedly as the BO wrench in insufficient.

By reading a variety of responses over numerous threads my guess is it's BO QC as it seems many are flawless and just as many scary mouse traps!

My solution?

Dumped it and bought an Equal-i-zer. Usually if I have to take a big loss on one item that should be fine and spend a lot on another (~$700 for Equal-i-zer) I'd be bummed out but I was and am happy about it! No more hitch adventures!

Trav

[coerector]

I totally agree with all the “chain stuck” comments about the BO hitch. I’ve tried all the little tricks and still can’t avoid the dreaded jam-up.

[dbj216]

As mentioned by many, many Blue Ox Sway Pro owners, we need a 1/2"
breaker bar and a 6 point 1" socket to operate the rotary pull ups more easily. The stamped tool Blue Ox provides is inadequate for most users, including me. I can use my breaker bar to free the stuck chain with little difficulty, and I have a strong handle to "catch" the sudden "over center" release of the chain.

Many, many people have pulled up spring bars on their Reese dual cam and equalizer style hitches with a pipe. We have felt the "bang" of the pipe going over center to lock up the spring bar, or "jerk" of the pipe releasing the spring bar. The Blue Ox rotary pull ups have the same "bang" going up and "jerk" going down except it is in a different direction.

David

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by dbj216

Here is a photo of my chain link jammed on the rotary pull up pivot pin head. This is the spot where my chain gets caught. I will measure the clearance between the head of the pivot pin and see if it is narrower than the width of the chain link. It looks like it is.

One possible solution for me is to grind maybe a 1/16" off the link just below the slot link I use to provide the necessary clearance. It would weaken the chain, but not by much.

David

That must be the point of contention, David. I would not grind anything off of it, at least, before contacting BO and send the photo. I also have a FYI for safety. When you unhitch it is important for truck and trailer to be straight. If releasing the cam under tension I had the wrench fly off with INCREDIBLE force, unexpectedly, because of tension still there and could break something or the operator! And for someone who will probably say this... yes the jack was at its max height, nearly lifting the truck tires off of the ground. If it will be turned after getting into a site, unhook the BO where you are straight. Another suggestion that was passed on to me, because cheap ole me was using the supplied handle to roll the cam. Get a long breaker bar and socket. Probably would wear HD gloves as well
WW

[Gene]

And hello to dbj216—we used to live near you in Marshdale, but moved west in 2000.

My wife used to do one side of the Equalizer and I did the other side. She can't do the Blue Ox. The lever that has to pull out to release the rotating part that releases the chain is usually difficult to pull out unless I can remove some tension from it. Even then it is cranky. While I haven't had any problems getting the chains out, having that happen also would make me buy another hitch right away.

The wrench to turn the rotating part disappeared last year, so I use a wrench I have. I think it is one inch. I haven't had to use a breaker bar on it, but if I can't turn it, maybe I shouldn't be doing this.

I have thought of getting a new Equalizer or a ProPride if I can find a used one. We don't travel very far anymore and when we do, we usually stay somewhere for several days to two weeks. We don't hitch/unhitch very often. If we did, I would change hitches. I understand Blue Ox has a good reputation, but I don't know why.

I would be very careful about thinning a chain link. The parts the link binds on would be a better selection to hone down, or put a softer edge on it so the chain might slide over it better. A little spray of oil on it may help too—WD40 for example. I little bit off the link may quickly mean 10% less strength.

[dbj216]

No more stuck chains for this kid.

I measured the clearance between the pivot pin head and the opposite plate of the rotary pull up. It measures 1.10 by my calipers. The chain links are 1.16 wide at the weld. So I have a .060 interference (about 1/16") condition where the chain link binds. It happens only on the link below the link that you put in the slot to pull the spring bars tight. It binds in the pivot pin head area only. I'm using link #8 up from the spring bars. Blue Ox recommends we start with link #9, but I level out nicely on link #8. Link position adjustments is how we tune the hitch to our trailers and tow vehicles.

I might add again that I can break the stuck chain free with my breaker bar. But when the chain breaks free, the breaker bar and my arm gets the jerk. A binding chain is not a show stopper, just an annoyance for me. Every hitch I've used has something I have to figure out and get used to.

So I ground a 1/16" off the width of the chain link #7 creating the clearance I need. I did both chains as the spring bars are interchangeable left to right of course. If I decide to go back to link #9 or some other link, then I would have to grind the appropriate chain link again.

The chain is a 3/8" diameter link chain with a working load limit of 2600 pounds. My tongue weight is 550 pounds, and my spring bars are 750 pounds. I'm redistributing about 500 pounds with the two chains. I do not know the load on the chain when the hitch is resisting or dissipating trailer sway.

I personally like it that my chain doesn't stick in the rotary pull up.

Disclaimer: I did this totally on my own with no input from Blue Ox or anyone else. I know I weakened the pull up chain. I know I can replace the chain easily.
It is my doing and my responsibility only. I don't recommend this fix to others. Maybe someone else will have a better solution.

David

PS: Hello Gene: I know Marshdale on my way to Evergreen. We enjoy living in the foothills with the wildlife, snow, and lovely summers. You know County 73 gets blocked when an elk heard decides to wonder across. I've only seen one bear this year so far.

[TG Twinkie]

My 3 kids all went to school in Marshdale.
The last place I lived was at the top of Shadow Mountain Drive.
We had 8 acres there. Every fall the elk would gather in our pasture. Between 10 and 20 with the males all competing for the females.
I miss living in the mountains. The area around Conifer and Aspen Park has certainly changed.
When I first moved to the area Shadow Mountain Drive was a gravel road.
There was 1 gas station (Mom and Pop) Same for the one M&P grocery store. Nothing was open between 7PM and 7AM.
Did I say I miss living in the mountains?

[Gene]

I miss the elk, real snow instead of the little bits we get near Grand Jct., the ponderosa trees, but not the traffic and what has happened to Denver. Marshdale was a very eclectic community with cabins dating back more than a century and new houses with Colorado Mountain Style. Winter started in September and ended in June. Perhaps now that I am 20 years older, the snow would not be so attractive anymore.

Interlude over. Back to hitch.

David, I have no idea just how to calculate the stress on the chains, though I expect there is a formula for it that physicists know. Shaving off 1/16 inch means about 25–33% less link on one side, I think (memory, too lazy to go look). Would it make more sense to shave off 1/32 to each side of the link? Maybe not if it only binds on one side. Perhaps you did it that way. Chains are relatively cheap and I wonder if there is readily available a chain that is stronger but a bit narrower than the OEM chain.

I have come to think Blue Ox changed the chain supplier without thinking this through and got links a little wider than the original chains. We bought ours three years ago.

[BayouBiker]

As you suspected the formula is fairly straight forward, and as a rough guideline it is generally about 3 times the weight transferred for a 25 ' trailer and a long bed truck. In general it will go up to 4 times for a a 34' trailer and a shorter truck.

Also these are grade 70 transport chains not rated for overhead lifting but they have a load limit of 6,600 lbs.

Edit: The 1/16 lopped off about 1,200 in load capacity. You have about 1,400-1,600 in static tension total, lets say 800 each and on the road on a severe bump it can exceed 1500 so you're way under max.

[Gene]

Brian, thanks for the info. I guess we won't see bars flying all over the road.

[coerector]

Using nine links for tension, my chain rarely sticks. At eight links it jambs regularly, always the one on the port side. I haven’t quite figured out how to twist the chain slightly since it always wants to square up under tension with the engaging slot. Too many smart careful people seem to have the same problem for this situation to be just oolong user error. Lifting the TV as high as possible obviously helps but doesn’t consistently avoid the dreaded bind-up. I’ve just come to the conclusion that I’ll have to beat it out with a mallet. Hard to believe BO doesn’t pay some attention to it. The solution is a no-brainer.