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Old 04-17-2003, 12:25 PM   #1
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Question Safety chain

We are trying to follow up on the suggestion that grade 80 chain is the only way to go when it comes to trailer hitch safety chain.

We are assuming that grade 80 hooks would naturally be required to avoid creating a "weak link" in the system. I haven't found any of this stuff locally, yet, but I expect to find it sooner or later. Grainger lists Grade 70, by the way.

(our trailer GVWR is 8300Lbs)

question #1 is: What sort of hook would be best?

Clevis types would be easiest to mount on the end of the chain, but there is still a choice between Slip and Grab styles. Grab style seems designed to latch onto a link of chain to form a loop.

In my last setup, I used a slip hook with a spring loaded latch.

Question #2 is more vague. I wonder what would be the best way to attach the chain to the tongue. I expect to have to grind off the old loop.

Please accompany opinions with supporting arguements.
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Old 04-17-2003, 07:00 PM   #2
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I can't comment on other states, but Texas no longer allows a welded safety chain. It should be bolted into the sides of the A-frame.

My old Scamp had the chain welded, but that was a dozen years ago.
John W. Irwin
2018 Interstate GT, "Sabre-Dog V"
WBCCI #9632
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Old 04-17-2003, 08:34 PM   #3
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Texas no longer allows a welded safety chain
Which means that even if Texas started that, other States have or will follow. I believe they must have had a good reason for that.

I will check DOT on that subject. Thank you.

Anybody can tell us how are the chains attached on recent trailers?
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Old 04-17-2003, 09:29 PM   #4
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Safety chains

Grade 80 chain and hooks might be found at a local industrial supply store. Slip hooks can have spring loaded safety latches attached whereas grab hooks cannot.
I believe U bolts are an approved method of attaching the chains to the tongue. They are available in grade 8 (80).

Safety Chain Strength: The Society of Automotive Engineers and the Vehicle Equipment Safety Commission have adopted the following standards:

Trailer Class - Trailer Weight - Safety Chain Minimum Breaking Strength
Class I 2000 lbs. GVWR 2000 lbs
Class II 2000-3500 lbs. GVWR 3500 lbs
Class III 3500-5000 lbs. GVWR 5000 lbs
Class IV 5000-10,000 lbs. GVWR The GVWR of the trailer
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Old 04-19-2003, 09:26 AM   #5
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how others do it

rog et al,

another method is to cut a slot in the frame of the trailer that recieves one link of the chain.

then a rod is passed through the link on the inside. the rod is welded to the frame. no welding is done to the chain.

now, before you all freak out about cutting into the frame. i have seen this on trailers used for the utility industry. butlers, keifers, etc.


just passing on info on how other manufacturers do it.

my excella has a "C" shaped link that has both chains attached to it, this is welded to the frame under the hitch.

again, no welding is done to the chain itself.

remember, your chains should be short enough to not allow the tounge hit the ground. (and crossed under the hitch)

i lost a trailer at work due to the pintle not being closed, believe me, this is possibly the most important thing you need to do other than making sure the brakes work!

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