F150 Bilstein Shock Upgrade

[Luigi123]

On a F150 and large payload, consider the Class V Airsafe.

[Mount'n Man]

This is great information! We have a '17 F-150 supercab Sport with the 6-1/2' bed ("downgraded" from an '00 F-250 7.3 diesel). Tows our '06 25'FB just fine and is MUCH more comfortable, but have definitely noticed the occasional "porpoising" described here on certain road types. Especially when compared to the stiff ride of the old diesel with her added vehicle weight and air bag shocks! I have been contemplating upgrading the rear shocks for a while and was glad to see this thread. Question: do I have to replace the front as well or can I just do the rear to firm up the ride? We have a FG camper shell on the bed but don't typically push the payload weight.

[Andrew T]

In June we had a new customer take delivery of a 30’ International. He owns a trucking company, tows a race car trailer etc. He ordered a new 250 to replace his 2017 150 platinum. We tried to tell him the 150 was better than the 250 in most areas but he insisted he knew better and was getting a 250 diesel.

When it came time for delivery his 250 wasn’t in yet so he picked up the Airstream with the 150. We tossed what he thought was a hitch and set him up properly. When the 250 arrived 6 weeks later he switched to it, after one trip with the 250 he realized it did not ride or handle nearly as well the 150. He has ordered a 150 Diesel.
In all his years of towing he had never driven a properly setup hitch system so he thought the answer had to be bigger is better.

[DreamStreamr]

Last year I installed four Bilstein 4600s on my 2006 2500HD at more than 200,000 miles. One of the oem shox I removed was completely shot, move it full stroke with no effort. 20 minutes for the first r&r, 7 minutes each for the remaining three. Speed of work almost entirely due to using air wrench. Didn’t need to lift the truck to remove or replace these but found a little easier to slightly lift the truck’s corner so the shock “banded” length matched the bolts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Porpoising is, I think, most a function of the road, the hitch type, and my vehicle speed. The shocks will try to dampen the action/reaction but stuffs just gotta go when its gotta go.

[Wconley]

Originally Posted by Andrew T

In June we had a new customer take delivery of a 30’ International. He owns a trucking company, tows a race car trailer etc. He ordered a new 250 to replace his 2017 150 platinum. We tried to tell him the 150 was better than the 250 in most areas but he insisted he knew better and was getting a 250 diesel.

When it came time for delivery his 250 wasn’t in yet so he picked up the Airstream with the 150. We tossed what he thought was a hitch and set him up properly. When the 250 arrived 6 weeks later he switched to it, after one trip with the 250 he realized it did not ride or handle nearly as well the 150. He has ordered a 150 Diesel.
In all his years of towing he had never driven a properly setup hitch system so he thought the answer had to be bigger is better.

Thanks for weighing in Andrew - and thanks for your help and advice in setting up my weight distribution, I can’t wait to take our next trip to see how it feels. One of my rear shocks was also shot (60k miles) so that was an obvious contributor to our porpoising. Road surface is what drives porpoising but it’s all about the dynamics of your tow vehicle and trailer setup that determines the response. In our case, before making this relatively simple upgrade, the response seemed to be amplified. Since making the change, pavement dips are damped quite readily. Full disclosure, we’ve only taken one trip of less than 300 miles since putting the shocks on and I’m still dialing in the WD hitch so time will tell the full story. What I do know is that when I see dips in the pavement ahead, especially on curves, I grab the steering wheel in anticipation of the response we used to get. Now, there’s very little drama in the dips I’ve hit so far. If it is as good as my initial impressions, I may be less inclined to move to an F250 for awhile and get more miles out of our 2013 F150 which we are otherwise very happy with.

[Moflash]

I initially pulled or 28ft International with a properly equipped F150 for approx 15,000 miles.Pulled the trailer ok but the suspension and brakes were maxed and handled poorly even with a property set up WD hitch.Added a Airsafe hitch and the trailer rode smoother( eliminates jerk backs also)but the F150 was not cutting it as it was at its limits.
Bought a new 2012 F350 6.7 Td and it was a night and day difference.Traded for a new 2015 F350 Td after 35,000 miles and it was even better.After 38,000 miles traded for a 2017 F350 and was amazed at how smooth and quiet these trucks have become.I am still a believer in the Airsafe Hitch along with a WD.
For those who continue to tell everyone how rough riding and poor handling the F250 and F350’s are I just laugh as I know with that statement that they have never pulled a larger trailer with one.Or they believe that patching up a anemic vehicle to pull too much trailer is the way to go.
Don’t let them fool you into believing that a under rated vehicle is the way to go as this is BS.Sorry

I will never return to a F150 as tow vehicle to pull our 28ft International.

[Baby Zeppelin]

Originally Posted by Moflash

I will never return to a F150 as tow vehicle to pull our 28ft International.

From what I've read the F150 can tow 28ft AS trailers, but lack the payload to cart around all the stuff you'd want to take camping along with the trailer.

I've never had an F150, but do like the way our F250 tows our FC 28. I have experienced the porpoising on concrete freeways mentioned in this thread and wonder if installing Bilstein shocks would help. Can't seem to find part numbers to fit the front and rear of a 2017 F250 though.

[Moflash]

Unless they finally released shocks for the 2017
Just Google 2017 F250 Bilstein shock bushings.
The 2016 shocks fit but Ford changed the rear bushing bolt size.So u have to order 2 new bushings and press them into the shock.Simple to do.I installed Bilstein 5100’s on my 2012 and 2015 but with the 2017 they were not needed .Or just call Bilstein they are very helpful .

[Steve Bryant]

Originally Posted by Moflash

I initially pulled or 28ft International with a properly equipped F150 for approx 15,000 miles.Pulled the trailer ok but the suspension and brakes were maxed and handled poorly even with a property set up WD hitch.Added a Airsafe hitch and the trailer rode smoother( eliminates jerk backs also)but the F150 was not cutting it as it was at its limits.
Bought a new 2012 F350 6.7 Td and it was a night and day difference.Traded for a new 2015 F350 Td after 35,000 miles and it was even better.After 38,000 miles traded for a 2017 F350 and was amazed at how smooth and quiet these trucks have become.I am still a believer in the Airsafe Hitch along with a WD.
For those who continue to tell everyone how rough riding and poor handling the F250 and F350’s are I just laugh as I know with that statement that they have never pulled a larger trailer with one.Or they believe that patching up a anemic vehicle to pull too much trailer is the way to go.
Don’t let them fool you into believing that a under rated vehicle is the way to go as this is BS.Sorry

I will never return to a F150 as tow vehicle to pull our 28ft International.

I don't drive a Ford tow vehicle, but I do have some insight on the subject of a properly sized vehicle that is appropriately set up regarding weight distribution and damping via shock absorbers. I pull a 1991 thirty-four foot Limited trailer with a 2017 GMC Sierra Crew Cab (half ton, max tow package and 6.2L engine) pickup. Previously, I towed this trailer with a 2000 three-quarter ton Yukon XL. I have a Hensley hitch that has been set up properly for both trucks. The half ton truck is hands down the better truck with the 34 foot trailer! The ride is more compliant, pitch stability is better (wheelbase is 13 inches longer with the crew cab) and the steering is more responsive. Also, I've frequently gotten 12.6 MPG or so towing and 22 to 24 MPG solo versus 8.5 and 14 MPG respectively with my 3/4 ton Yukon XL.

Now more to the topic of this thread, the Bilstein 4600 Series shock absorbes. My current truck is under-damped. The OEM shocks are tuned (valved) for a floaty boulevard ride with an empty truck. I've had Bilsteins on two or three vehicles on years past and the damping is authoritative without being harsh. So sometime in the next year or so I plan to install the 4600 Series shocks on my truck that currently has under 15,000 miles and the shocks are not worn out!

[Moflash]

Originally Posted by Steve Bryant

I don't drive a Ford tow vehicle, but I do have some insight on the subject of a properly sized vehicle that is appropriately set up regarding weight distribution and damping via shock absorbers. I pull a 1991 thirty-four foot Limited trailer with a 2017 GMC Sierra Crew Cab (half ton, max tow package and 6.2L engine) pickup. Previously, I towed this trailer with a 2000 three-quarter ton Yukon XL. I have a Hensley hitch that has been set up properly for both trucks. The half ton truck is hands down the better truck with the 34 foot trailer! The ride is more compliant, pitch stability is better (wheelbase is 13 inches longer with the crew cab) and the steering is more responsive. Also, I've frequently gotten 12.6 MPG or so towing and 22 to 24 MPG solo versus 8.5 and 14 MPG respectively with my 3/4 ton Yukon XL.

Now more to the topic of this thread, the Bilstein 4600 Series shock absorbes. My current truck is under-damped. The OEM shocks are tuned (valved) for a floaty boulevard ride with an empty truck. I've had Bilsteins on two or three vehicles on years past and the damping is authoritative without being harsh. So sometime in the next year or so I plan to install the 4600 Series shocks on my truck that currently has under 15,000 miles and the shocks are not worn out!Attachment 324774

Things have changed alot in the 18 years since your Yukon and other 3/4 -1 tons were built so I can understand your statement.There is no comparison to today’s pickups or automobiles.

[rv guy]

I had a 2014 30 FC and a 2016 F150 3.5 Eco max tow. Now I got a 2018 33 Classic and tow it with the F150. No problem. And I go up and down a 5000 foot mountain pass frequently.

[DTCOnyx]

Thank you for the info here, I am in the exact same position you were in before the upgrades to the shocks. Much appreciated...

[gypsydad]

Might have missed it, but did you say what WDH hitch you were using? I know that if the WDH is not set up properly, the front end can cause the effect known as "porpoise". Maybe you have checked this already? You want the weight to be transferred to the front of the TV using the WDH. (you may know this, right?)

Good info on the shocks...I went up from the F150 EB with my 25' AS, to the F250 6.7 with my 28' FC...big difference all the way around, but no porpoise type issues with my WDH on either TV for me. Interesting to hear what caused the porpoise...

[Wconley]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Might have missed it, but did you say what WDH hitch you were using? I know that if the WDH is not set up properly, the front end can cause the effect known as "porpoise". Maybe you have checked this already? You want the weight to be transferred to the front of the TV using the WDH. (you may know this, right?)

Good info on the shocks...I went up from the F150 EB with my 25' AS, to the F250 6.7 with my 28' FC...big difference all the way around, but no porpoise type issues with my WDH on either TV for me. Interesting to hear what caused the porpoise...

I have a Blue Ox Swaypro that has served us well on our first Airstream, a 2013 23D. I started really noticing porpoising with our 27FB on our 6000 mile trip last winter. On our return from that trip I replaced our brake pads and rotors and noticed one of the rear shocks was leaking which I’m sure contributed to the increase in porpoising.

When we moved to the 28RBQ Serenity I wasn’t happy with the Swaypro setup which I believe didn’t transfer enough weight as well as leaving both the truck and the trailer nose up. After replacing the shocks, porpoising was much better with the same WD setup. Since then I consulted Andy at CAN-AM and spent an afternoon doing my own setup. I dropped the ball 1-1/4” and increased the spring tension two chain links - eight links from the end versus nine links recommended in the Swaypro setup guidelines. Now after hitching up, the trailer is level and the front wheel arch of the truck is the same as before hitching (the back is down 1”). I won’t know how it handles until we go to our year-end rally next week. When I get time I need to visit a CAT scale to get the true low down on the setup. It’s a process to get it right.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Wconley

I have a Blue Ox Swaypro that has served us well on our first Airstream, a 2013 23D. I started really noticing porpoising with our 27FB on our 6000 mile trip last winter. On our return from that trip I replaced our brake pads and rotors and noticed one of the rear shocks was leaking which I’m sure contributed to the increase in porpoising.

When we moved to the 28RBQ Serenity I wasn’t happy with the Swaypro setup which I believe didn’t transfer enough weight as well as leaving both the truck and the trailer nose up. After replacing the shocks, porpoising was much better with the same WD setup. Since then I consulted Andy at CAN-AM and spent an afternoon doing my own setup. I dropped the ball 1-1/4” and increased the spring tension two chain links - eight links from the end versus nine links recommended in the Swaypro setup guidelines. Now after hitching up, the trailer is level and the front wheel arch of the truck is the same as before hitching (the back is down 1”). I won’t know how it handles until we go to our year-end rally next week. When I get time I need to visit a CAT scale to get the true low down on the setup. It’s a process to get it right.

Sounds like your in good hands with Andy...Not sure if you measured front/rear fenders both hooked up and unhooked? Should not be more than 1/2" difference, I believe either way when hooked up. Check your scale weight also, loaded for travel...important to know. (see mine below)

FYI- we were advised to upgrade from the 1000# bars we had been using with our 25' FC FBT, to 1500# bars when we purchased our 28' FC FBT last year, by the folks at Blue Ox. Our dealer tried to convince me to use the 1000# bars, until I had him weigh the tongue; he only had a 1000# scale, and it pegged, so we knew it was over 1000#'s. At first, the 1500# bars seemed too stiff, but the tongue weight hit the scales at 1100#. I originally had 5.5 links showing and experienced a light front end. After talking with the Blue Ox tech team who said it should show 3.5 links; that felt too stiff, so I just went to show 4.5 links...that also seemed a bit stiff at first but works great for us now after 25K miles, truck sits level and feels very stable in front. I have heard several folks say the bars "brake in" after use. making the ride much smoother...I agree..you might try that and also give the Blue Ox tech folks a call...porpoise usually means the front end of your TV is too light...not a good thing. Bluestine's may be masking the problem? But, as I said, Andy is a good source also, from the praise he receives here.

[Vantair]

With so much comment on the Bilstiens, we felt need of improvement so recently installed them on our 30k Miles 2014 1500 Denali 5.3 towing a 2005 Intl SS 5300/6300 wet.

Amazing difference period. 3 noticeable areas that are immediate and obviously apparent both with and without towing:

1. Less recovery bounce back on irregular road. Driving off familiar bumps or driveway curbs, a commanding “one bounce back” with a quality solid feel. Not harsh or rough. Tightened up all ride feel and driving conditions.

2. Less road noise transfer. Prior shocks would be somewhat loose chattering by comparison and transfer/couple that four wheel noise into the cabin. Even on lane changes over freeway reflectors. Noticeable positive quiet improvement.

3. Handling. Sharper aggressive turns are met with a maintained level ride. No more familiar leaning or a lagging recovery. Almost like a new upgraded vehicle.

Overall, we paid 638.00 complete for a full set installed by our trusted local tire experts for 20+ years who said they use them on their trucks and “just get them” everyone who does, raves about the improvement.

Very glad we did and can say the same without question.
.

[Steve Bryant]

Originally Posted by Vantair

With so much comment on the Bilstiens, we felt need of improvement so recently installed them on our 30k Miles 2014 1500 Denali 5.3 towing a 2005 Intl SS 5300/6300 wet.

Amazing difference period. 3 noticeable areas that are immediate and obviously apparent both with and without towing:

Vantair,

Thanks very much for your feedback!

[Mount'n Man]

After a recent trip involving towing our AS hundreds of miles with that concrete highway/evenly spaced expansion joint "porpoising", I just ordered a complete set of 4600's for my '17 F-150. I'll have them installed at my local shop next week. Thanks for all the input on this thread!

[Airtandem]

Brian, I've been thinking the same thing. Only difference, I blamed it on those miles of gravel you took me on through the "hills" of Missouri. My truck is now sitting lower and there is nothing on the hitch.
Mike

[Mount'n Man]

The Ozarks claims another victim, eh?