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JimmyT · 02-02-2011, 08:36 PM

Our AS had a close call over Thanksgiving weekend here in Colorado; the water lines were working the night before but froze on our drive to Colo Springs. We setup at the campground, cranked the heater up to 60, opened all the cabinets AND took up the mattress to let heat get to the lines near the water tank under the bed. Then we went to a nice Thanksgiving dinner with family; came back after dark; everything worked.
All the tips here sound good - you might stand the mattress on end to get warm air to those lines.
Good luck.

rapz · 02-06-2011, 03:13 PM

Thanks to all for your help. We made it through the freezing temps this week w/o any problems. It's 82 in my backyard now and getting ready to enjoy the Superbowl. Thanks again!

truckerjim · 09-18-2011, 11:57 PM

HI John, I have only had my 95 33' land yacht for 3 wks and this is my 1st attempt at winterizing. I carried out your system as described but then found 3 taps under my bed, do I need to go back and do it again? Tank 2 still shows 1/3 full but I'm sure its empty as I've tried hard to drain it and thirdly are those plastic taps definitely closed when across the pipe and open in line. A lot but thanks

justbrian · 09-19-2011, 10:51 AM

I read an article(RVing site) where leaving the water left in the fresh water tank after draining, an inch perhaps? Didn't do any harm as it wasn't enough to do so. So I never did and it didn't. It's up to you whether one wants to mess with flushing out what is put in besides water.
Winterizing~ As well read on the same site. Just pumping through each line with RV AF till discharge turns pink...a bit extra to treat the trap. 'n hoping not to forget the outside shower, hand toilet sprayer, starting the closest sink/line to the pump. Tending to water filter?
So what do you all think about the water filter? Take the filter out 'n screw back on empty/flush with AF? (lol, pink water makes me sad)

is.chowa · 09-19-2011, 11:30 AM

Those three valves under bed are to drain the hot, cold and fresh tank. At least they are on mine - ASLY 2000 on 1999 P32 center queen bed. The rubber in the valve tends to deteriorate and the #oo are the replacement. I turn them finger tight either direction.

Steve

Gene · 09-19-2011, 01:06 PM

Yes, you could leave some water in a tank, but the antifreeze isn't as effective when diluted. When pulling antifreeze through the lines using the water pump to protect them and faucets and valves, diluted antifreeze won't do as good a job.

Get a bypass kit and attach to water pump and that will suck water out of the gallon bottles of RV antifreeze and into the system. Don't buy the really cheap RV antifreeze as some complain it has a taste that persists in the system when you summerize. The antifreeze in the tanks is supposed to keep the seals lubricated, so pour a cup or two into the tanks. Make sure you draw antifreeze through things that are easy to forget—toilet (that valve can freeze otherwise and you have to remove toilet to replace it), kitchen sprayer (don't ask how I know). Also don't forget the outside shower. I remove both shower hoses and store them until summer. Remove the under sink filter before you add antifreeze—I doubt antifreeze does the activated charcoal any good. Once removed the system automatically bypasses it and you can get antifreeze through the extra faucet for the filtered water.

You can buy at Camping World a part that screws into the city water inlet to use with a compressor (still need to get the part to attach to a compressor hose). That makes a direct connection instead of having to hole the hose to the inlet and saves a lot of time. Some say to set compressor at 60 lbs, others say 40 lbs. Pressurize system and open each faucet and drain separately to get water out of each.

I can winterize our trailer in about an hour by myself now that I've done it for 4 years. Summerizing takes a lot longer because I sanitize the water system with chlorine and filling the system and draining it with 3 flushes takes a long time.

Gene

mcintoshMD · 10-04-2011, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Yes, you could leave some water in a tank, but the antifreeze isn't as effective when diluted. When pulling antifreeze through the lines using the water pump to protect them and faucets and valves, diluted antifreeze won't do as good a job.

Get a bypass kit and attach to water pump and that will suck water out of the gallon bottles of RV antifreeze and into the system. Don't buy the really cheap RV antifreeze as some complain it has a taste that persists in the system when you summerize. The antifreeze in the tanks is supposed to keep the seals lubricated, so pour a cup or two into the tanks. Make sure you draw antifreeze through things that are easy to forget—toilet (that valve can freeze otherwise and you have to remove toilet to replace it), kitchen sprayer (don't ask how I know). Also don't forget the outside shower. I remove both shower hoses and store them until summer. Remove the under sink filter before you add antifreeze—I doubt antifreeze does the activated charcoal any good. Once removed the system automatically bypasses it and you can get antifreeze through the extra faucet for the filtered water.

You can buy at Camping World a part that screws into the city water inlet to use with a compressor (still need to get the part to attach to a compressor hose). That makes a direct connection instead of having to hole the hose to the inlet and saves a lot of time. Some say to set compressor at 60 lbs, others say 40 lbs. Pressurize system and open each faucet and drain separately to get water out of each.

I can winterize our trailer in about an hour by myself now that I've done it for 4 years. Summerizing takes a lot longer because I sanitize the water system with chlorine and filling the system and draining it with 3 flushes takes a long time.

Gene

Do you let the compressor run at 40-60 psi, leave it on, walk inside and then open the faucet one at a time hot/cold then turn off the compressor or do you turn on the compressor each time you turn on each faucet?

Thanks,

Gene · 10-04-2011, 01:29 PM

I wish I could remember just what I did last year, but I have set the compressor as high as 60 lbs. because that is normal city water pressure and I believe the pressure reducers are set at 60. But the books often say use 40 lbs. to make sure you don't blow out anything. I think it is best to leave the compressor on so that the pressure blows out the water. I go around to each fixture opening each and when no more water comes out, close it. Then we attach the bypass to the pump and suck antifreeze into the lines, again going to each faucet, toilet and kitchen sprayer until pink comes out. Be sure to change the valves on the water heater bypass. The water heater can have some water at the bottom of the tank and it won't hurt it, but sediment will collect in it and it is good to blow it out or flush it.

Gene

ROBERT CROSS · 10-04-2011, 03:32 PM

Do all the compressor stuff, 40psi steady, open all faucets, low water drains and let blow for 5min or so.
Black, grey 1/2 gal AF in each and enough in the dumper to keep the seals wet. Empty and by-pass water heater.

The only thing thing I've done different the last two Seasons...Three gallons directly in the fresh tank and pump it thru the system. Re-open low drains and all taps, remove Moan faucet filter and pour in AF.
To much of a PITA emptying the closet to get to the WP.

(not qualified to re-pack DW's stuff)

A little added time in the Spring to flush the fresh tank but well worth the effort.

Bob

mcintoshMD · 10-05-2011, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Do all the compressor stuff, 40psi steady, open all faucets, low water drains and let blow for 5min or so.
Black, grey 1/2 gal AF in each and enough in the dumper to keep the seals wet. Empty and by-pass water heater.

The only thing thing I've done different the last two Seasons...Three gallons directly in the fresh tank and pump it thru the system. Re-open low drains and all taps, remove Moan faucet filter and pour in AF.
To much of a PITA emptying the closet to get to the WP.

(not qualified to re-pack DW's stuff)

A little added time in the Spring to flush the fresh tank but well worth the effort.

Bob

I am newbie here, forgive me if this is stupid question. Do you open the faucet all at once or one at a time? Looks like you after the compressor stuff you just put the AF in the fresh water tank and let the pump do the work, no need to disconnect / install the adapter for intake valve stuff like that?? What do you do with the water filter?

ROBERT CROSS · 10-05-2011, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcintoshMD

I am newbie here, forgive me if this is stupid question. Do you open the faucet all at once or one at a time? Looks like you after the compressor stuff you just put the AF in the fresh water tank and let the pump do the work, no need to disconnect / install the adapter for intake valve stuff like that?? What do you do with the water filter?

MD, no such thing as a stupid ?
First thing I do is drain water heater, open pressure relief valve and remove the plastic drain plug. By-pass valves set for winter storage.

When under pressure from the compressor,(40psi), I open all faucets one at a time starting in the shower. (Forgot to mention..leave the shower head and hose laying in the tub). Then B-room sink and finally K-sink and sprayer, also laying in sink.

With AF in the fresh tank and all drains closed. Compressor un-hooked. Pump on. Open one at a time,same sequence. Letting AF drain into the P-traps. When pump just starts to lose pressure shut off and open the 3 line drains, two next to the FW tank and one in the streetside storage compartment. Open the FW hook-up valve,(looks like a regular hose shut off, round), in the streetside front compartment. The K-faucet filter gets removed wrapped in a paper towel and stored, a little AF poured down the filter chamber.

And that's about it for the plumbing winterization.

LPG tanks off, batteries out, wheels off, vents, skylight and AC covered, fridge clean and doors ajar and all freezable liquids in the house.

Guess I'm done.....now all I have to do is do it.

After our anu-anal leef-peep'n tour in two weeks.

Bob

Gene · 10-05-2011, 11:05 AM

I open one faucet at a time, close it, move onto next. I use bypass kit on water pump to pump antifreeze from the bottle and to avoid putting a lot of it in the fresh water tank. Some in each of the 3 tanks is good to keep seals lubricated.

Ours has a valve that is not mentioned in the owner's manual—it is under the water heater and seems to drain a water line to the heater. I found it by accident. The other two water line drains are between the tires on the street side as is the fresh water tank tank.

Gene

dieppe9 · 10-05-2011, 07:47 PM

Real good tutorial , but I wondered if you needed all four gallons of Anti Freeze.
I thought I had change from two gallons last year on my 34' Excella .

Wondering if I missed something , I hope not , we regularly see 20 below where I have it parked . Maybe a bit less in the barn.

ROBERT CROSS · 10-06-2011, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieppe9

Real good tutorial , but I wondered if you needed all four gallons of Anti Freeze.
I thought I had change from two gallons last year on my 34' Excella .

Wondering if I missed something , I hope not , we regularly see 20 below where I have it parked . Maybe a bit less in the barn.

dieppe9,

Actually no, I bought four last year and have one left over. The FW pump doesn't need much to circulate. I must say it took a few Seasons to get the procedures down pat.
The one thing I had overlooked for the first few years was the outside water connection, it IS important to open it and let it drain, and leave all faucets and drains OPEN.

Bob

baldwin6601 · 10-07-2011, 06:10 PM

Can I do this using Corona Light?

tphan · 10-07-2011, 06:19 PM

Sure, but it won't taste very good next Spring...

Barryamo · 10-12-2011, 10:05 AM

Any Specific tips for folks who live in Seattle WA?

MStewart · 10-12-2011, 10:36 AM

Am interested in the Seattle question as well. Moving to Whidbey Island next spring.

Thanks.

Ginga69 · 10-12-2011, 11:00 AM

Thank you for this, I have amended some of my sequence of events and added one missed point and that is opening the lowest drain values!

A quick question, do you remove the batteries or just change the switch to "Store"?

ROBERT CROSS · 10-12-2011, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ginga69

Thank you for this, I have amended some of my sequence of events and added one missed point and that is opening the lowest drain values!

A quick question, do you remove the batteries or just change the switch to "Store"?

I remove the batt's......but check the owners manual for your converter if you plan to plug-in while the batteries are out, doing so could damage some brands.

Vodka makes a tasty substitute for the pink stuff..

Bob