Getting ready for the freeze-Winterize

[Sierrapapa]

Gee, this is a wonderful step by step, and when I "anti-freeze" my system I am going to follow these steps... in the meantime temps are getting down to the low 30's here now, but I am still using the trailer off and on. Am I safe to just drain the tanks, waterheater and blow the system with compressed air. My situation is going to be where I will have it stored under cover but still open enough it could freeze but I will be wanting to pull it out and head up to Yellowstone a couple of more times. I am hoping to be able to have the system drained, only fill it with water (and sewage) after it is in place at the boondocking site and the furnace is running, then do a quick drain and blow out for the drive home. Am I being realistic? I don't mind doing the full step by step as outlined here, I just don't want to do it 3 times.

[Sky]

My 2007 has a flushing system built into the black tank,and I am wondering if it traps water? Should I send some antifreeze through it to be safe? This will be my first winterization, wish me luck

Thanks

[CanoeStream]

Originally Posted by Sky

My 2007 has a flushing system built into the black tank,and I am wondering if it traps water?

Good idea! Will it ever end. I'm not sure of the exact layout but I don't think the path is very lengthy. I think this could readily be blown out and shouldn't require antifreeze. You won't have to open the black tank wastegate -- air will vent out the roof vent.

I use a Camco hose threaded adapter (I don't see it at Camping World... Check a local RV dealer or trailer section at a farm fleet store?) and a rubber tipped air compressor nozzle to do my winterizing (see picture). It's a little inconvenient because I need a 2nd person to hold the nozzle to the adapter -- not bad since I only do this once a year.

[Gene]

After we blew out the system, I removed the filter. There was no part to screw into the hole and seal it. If you keep the special faucet for the filtered water closed, no antifreeze will come out of the open filter connection where the filter screws in when you pressurize the system.

What was really strange was there was a 3v watch type battery taped to the filter. There is a wire—looks to be about 20 to 24 gauge—behind there going upward to where the faucets and spigot is mounted. I was cold and tired and didn't bother to check that out.

Gene

[2airishuman]

the kitchen faucet filter?

moen right?

the battery (on mine) is for the faucet head, it has a sensor that informs us when it's time for a new filter.

there's a little booklet in the owner's packet on setup, the light color codes and so on...

cheers
2air'

[thecatsandi]

You will soon find out the black tank flush will become useless. Mine did after 6 months. I use a flush king and be done with it. If you are worried about it put some RV antifreeze in it.

[Gene]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

the kitchen faucet filter?

moen right?

the battery (on mine) is for the faucet head, it has a sensor that informs us when it's time for a new filter.

there's a little booklet in the owner's packet on setup, the light color codes and so on...

cheers
2air'

Yes and yes. I'll look up the booklet (so many booklets).

Gene

[Gene]

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

I think I saw a suggestion for putting rock salt in the black tank for winter camping to prevent freezing. Has anyone here tried that? How much did you use and how did it work. I wonder if it wouldnt damage seals and whatnot....

Rodney, I recall reading suggestions to use rock salt in a pinch and warnings about it's corrosiveness. It's rarely used to melt ice on sidewalks and driveways anymore because it destroys concrete over time. There are gentler salts available for that (and they might work in the tank). I'm sure it would be very bad for the seals. A/S warns not to let sewage freeze in the tank in the manual in capital letters, so they must mean it. So I guess salt in an emergency and flush quick.

My tanks are heated so unless I run out of propane I'm ok. Insulating and heating the tanks might be a good further project for your restoration and that trip to Alaska. I'm sure you wanted another project. I don't know how effective antifreeze added to the black and grey water tanks would be.

Gene

[Sky]

Originally Posted by thecatsandi

You will soon find out the black tank flush will become useless. Mine did after 6 months. I use a flush king and be done with it. If you are worried about it put some RV antifreeze in it.

Hi Michelle,

Just curious why you say that? Between my 'Sewer Solution' and the built-in flush, I get very good results. I even made a Y hose to feed water to the built-in flush and 'Sewer Solution' so I don't need to move the hose back and forth. I'm not real sure how a 'Flush King' works, but my 'Sewer Solution' allows me to send water back up into the tank from the drain pipe. I get better results using the built in flush then I do with the 'Sewer Solution' flush.

I love talking about this sh**.

Just wondered what your thought were.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by Sky

...Just curious why you say that?...

i agree with cats on this and here's why.

the factory btf supplies a VERY small amt of water and the sieved head has little tiny holes that get plugged easily.

so it goes from slow to slower, to reallyreallyfriggentakeanapslow after a few months.

there is also some sort of 'back flow' regulator thing that leaks or fails and is a PIA to replace.

and repair/service of the main btf fitting and plumbing is a HUGE access issue, like a ship in a bottle repair.

since the btf is so slow it takes forEVER to back fill a 35 gallon tank.

the flushking otoh, back fills a 35 gallon tank in 3-5 minutes with reasonable water pressure.

so we can back fill n drain 3-5 cycles in about the same time the btf back fills ONCE.

your s-solution is a fine macerator but takes muchmuch longer to drain a tank than a standard size slinky.

i've never really needed the 'uphill' or '100 foot' features it provides, either.

i'm not sure what the back fill rate is on the s-solution,

but you would still need to use the macerator function with each 'dump' (even if it's 99% water) and that would add significantly to tank cleaning times.

we can 'clean' the black tank really really well in 20 minutes, and i only do this every few weeks during usage.

while there are folks that have slinky leaks or drips,

i've found buying the best/thickest slinky and fittings, means NO leaks and at least 3 years of duty life (no replacements needed yet)

cheers
2air'

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by Sky

Hi Michelle,
I'm not real sure how a 'Flush King' works, but my 'Sewer Solution' allows me to send water back up into the tank from the drain pipe. I get better results using the built in flush then I do with the 'Sewer Solution' flush.

Sounds like the sewer solution and the FLush king are abotu the same thing. My built in flush was slow and quit passing water decently after about six months.
I gave up on it. They should just quit installign them adn give everyone some other method. THe black tank flush only does one tank. I flush both of my tanks.

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by Sky

Hi Michelle,

Just curious why you say that? Between my 'Sewer Solution' and the built-in flush, I get very good results.

Just wondered what your thought were.

The built in flush is just a piece of tubing with holes drilled in it. The back flow prevention is prone to failure. They suspect mine did.
They know about it but I have no inclination to have it fixed just plug it and be done.
The other problem is the "wand" is in the tank. Subject to sloshing stuff (use your imagination). That will stick to the wand and eventually gown and plug the ports.

[Sky]

OK thanks Michelle, Ill keep putting pink stuff in the built-in flush each year until it stops working. Getting down to 10F tonight. That sh** is cold!

[Gene]

For what's worth, the factory installed sewer flusher on the '08 is called "No-Fuss-Flush" from Lakeview RV Supply, Inc. When it's running, it sounds like it's rotating. The installation instructions show it installed in the side of the black water tank towards the top.

Hopefully this is the new, improved, no clog model. If it clogs, why can't it be blown out with compressed air? Washed out with water at 65 lbs.?

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

"No-Fuss-Flush"... sounds like it's rotating.

If it clogs, why can't it be blown out with compressed air? Washed out with water at 65 lbs.?

this part is widely used on many rvs, mostly low end units...

without the a/s part #, don't know if this is a new version.

i doubt it.

yea it sounds impressive the first few months...

then the flow slows, as it loses punch.

there are no rotating parts and the tank is rectangular so there isn't any swirling water either.

recent units have this 2 bits (csa models have a slightly differerent one)

601441 Tank flush, no-fuss (vacuum breaker & check valve)
601441-01 Nozzle, tank mounted, no-fuss flush

the 'nozzle can plug from the tank side OR back fill side.

mine was plugged from the back fill side as the CHECK VALVE crumbled to bits, in the first few months.

gravel or other debris in the water line/hose plugs them too...

if turds or paper plug it from the tank side, this stuff might soften naturally or turn to cement

that really depends on the nature of the turd, (as in life)

while the 'fresh water' system is pex and tested/rated for pressure,

the sewage side is butyl or some sort of white/black stuff and NOT capable of withstanding pressure.

so gene, yours might be fine for now, and i'm sure many folks have units that work.

but IF you travel much or really run a lot of stuff through the tanks....

the oem btf is just another cheap part, poorly installed and really hard to service.

we use this...

elvisisinthebuilding

because it works, is fast, attaches easily outside the rig, works on both tanks, and so on...

cheers
2air'

[Gene]

Thanks, 2air, pictures help understanding.

Gene

[Dr Dan]

Hey John,

Timely topic. I worked on my 65 Tradewind today winterizing by the manual and now you got me spooked. I did have concerns about the water heater. For the life of me I don't think this model has a drain plug. I opened all of the low spot drains and drained the supply tank. My homemade fitting didn't look as cool as yours but I blew the lines out at 40 pounds. Dumped the holding tank then made good use of a few of the beautiful Kentucky hills I had handy to tilt ther trailer every which a way until nothing was running out anywhere. I filled the traps with antifreeze, but should I fill all of the supply lines too?
Dr Dan

[94Tri]

Dr Dan. Glad to see a fellow Kentuckian. I would find a way to put the antifreeze in the lines. I do on mine. Better safe that sorry. Good luck

[Gene]

Subfreezing temps predicted for the first time this Fall—late too. Went out and turned on the heat pump and glad I did. This morning around 25˚. I'm hoping we can use it more this season, so winterizing is in the future.

Dr. Dan, can you blow out the lines with a compressor? I don't know about the older water heaters, but the new ones are made to leave some water in them.

Gene

[rustyrivet]

Your adaptor for the Air compressor connection to city water connection appears to be something you made. Can you give me the specifics of the parts you used to make it. I tried to get something similar at Lowe's and they couldn't figure out how to make it. jc