leveling concerns

[jwaldin]

I am trying to level my 31' AS. The ground is uneven where the AS is now and it has to stay where it is. I need to raise the left side at least a foot. The four crank down pads don't seem to be made to actually lift just stabalize is this so? If I use a hydralic jack to raise the AS where do I position it? I am concerned that I might twist the AS if I use the jack in the wrong place. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[68 Overlander]

You are correct that the BAL stabilizers are not designed to jack/support the trailer. Is there any way you could roll the wheels up on some sturdy 2X8 wood blocks? That would relieve the stress on the frame. The jack point is behind the rear wheels along the frame. There might be a decal pointing to the jack point. 12 inches seems like a lot of jacking but if you left with no other choice, the wheels could hold most of the weight after you get it level. There is a disadvantage to long-term storage with the weight on the wheels but I think 12 inches is going to seem like you’re on the edge of a cliff.
Randy

[59toaster]

That's a heck of a grade drop. 12 inch drop in about 7 feet pretty steep.
BE VERY carefull when you jack. if it's on dirt I would dig down on the high side a little and make a level spot fo the tire to sit and that would also lessen the hight you would need to raise the other side a little Making sure the tires are on flat ground is a good idea to help prevent odd loading on the tire.

[Inland RV Center, In]

BAL jacks are for "stabilzing" ONLY.

Actually, the trailer or motorhome should never be leveled.

The refrigerator freezer compartment is the "true" leveling indicator.

The reefer will not work correctly, if it is more than 1/2 bubble off level, as measured in the freezer compartment. Additionally, the hotter the weather, the more critical the leveling of the freezer compartment becomes.

Usually, but not always, at least with Airstream products, the trailer and reefer will level out to be the same.

BUT NOT ALWAYS.

Best to check yours, so that you don't accidently vapor lock the cooling unit. Hot weather, can and does play havoc with heat absorption type refrigerators.

Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
airstreamcandy.com

[Road Ruler]

J...

Nice challange!! I think Randy is on the right track. Once you make the ramp getting it on or off may be less work and safer than getting the jacks out each time. If it is gravel with good drainage you might think of digging a slight trough for the wheels on the opposite side. By doing that you could keep the ramp as low as possible. If you go for it post a pic when you are done. Would like to see how it turns out.

[jwaldin]

Thanks for the good advice. I'll let you know how I make out. I looked under the AS and found what looks like shiney rectangal spots about 2"x3" on the alum. sheeting about 12" behind the back wheels one on each side. Are these where the jacking points are and were decals originally stuck on these shiney spots? Will a 12 ton hyraulic bootle jack be enough to raise the AS on the low side?

[68 Overlander]

That is the jacking point and the decals are probably gone. If I remember right, the decals had an arrow pointing to that spot and were not actually on the small piece of aluminum. Just make sure you're on the frame. With the pitch you have, most of the weight of the Airstream is going to be on that side so you will be lifting well over half of the weight. Not sure what year your 31 ft is but it's dry weight is probably near 6000 lbs. You're pushing it with a 12 ton jack, but might be OK. I still like the ramp idea from Wayne, have you ruled that out?
Randy

[74Argosy24MH]

12" is a lot of lift on a flat with a hydraulic jack, there isn't a lot of base for the weight they support on a single point. If your area is uneven I would be very hesitant to lift anywhere near that high even chocking wheels; a very small movement will be enough to twist the jack and cause it to fall.

You do need to build a good solid ramp or level the area. It is more work but the weight you are dealing with is pretty unforgiving.

John

[jwaldin]

Thanks for the info from everyone. I rented a 20 ton hydr. jack.
It worked like a charm. I blocked under the main frame on the inside and between the tires. This way the tires are not taking any load. I used concrete patio blocks on the grass and then 12"x12"x 3" fir peices to build up under the main vertical frame inside the tires. Then I cranked down the stabilizers onto solid 4"x4"x8" solid concrete blocks. This seems to have all worked ok. I didn't use the axels as support. Thanks again for the advice. I think these forums are GREAT!!!!