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Old 12-08-2017, 12:15 PM   #1
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Can I remove batteries?

I did a search, but most threads concerned older units.
I'm starting a project and want to remove the house batteries, but still have lights in the AS. If I have it plugged in, will I damage anything (like the converter) by not having a termination at the battery?

2017 AS FC.
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Old 12-08-2017, 01:35 PM   #2
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You can safely remove your batteries and still use your converter.

I would disconnect shore power, select the "store" position, remove the negative terminal first, then the positive terminal. This reduces the risk of shorting the positive terminal to the chassis. Make sure you isolate the positive terminal from the chassis when you apply shore power just in case the "use" position gets selected.
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:01 PM   #3
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Hi

The big issue with most converters is that they produce a bit of a noisy output without a battery. That may come through the speakers on the sound system. For running LED lights ... no big deal.

Bob
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:01 PM   #4
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you can safely remove your batteries and still use your converter.
x2
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:54 PM   #5
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Thanks. My intuition said yes, but I wanted to be sure.
I'm doing a mod on the battery box, and I may want to rest up in the trailer some. I can't go all day like I used to.
I'm tagging all the + terminals with red cable ties and the - terminals with white cable ties. 1 cable tie for battery one and two for battery two. While the batteries are out I want to put a mat under them, take them home to charge and water.
Then I'm cutting a hole in the battery box for a switch.
I've spent weeks thinking this through, assembling the parts, and now it's go time.

Good idea to cover the + ends while I'm plugged in.
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Old 12-08-2017, 05:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
Thanks. My intuition said yes, but I wanted to be sure.
I'm doing a mod on the battery box, and I may want to rest up in the trailer some. I can't go all day like I used to.
I'm tagging all the + terminals with red cable ties and the - terminals with white cable ties. 1 cable tie for battery one and two for battery two. While the batteries are out I want to put a mat under them, take them home to charge and water.
Then I'm cutting a hole in the battery box for a switch.
I've spent weeks thinking this through, assembling the parts, and now it's go time.

Good idea to cover the + ends while I'm plugged in.
Looking forward to hearing about your progress!!
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Old 12-08-2017, 05:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I did a search, but most threads concerned older units.
I'm starting a project and want to remove the house batteries, but still have lights in the AS. If I have it plugged in, will I damage anything (like the converter) by not having a termination at the battery?

2017 AS FC.
page 5-9 in your manual gives the answer to your question and also a warning about reconnecting.
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Old 12-09-2017, 06:00 AM   #8
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Take lots of pictures also.
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Old 12-09-2017, 09:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I did a search, but most threads concerned older units.
I'm starting a project and want to remove the house batteries, but still have lights in the AS. If I have it plugged in, will I damage anything (like the converter) by not having a termination at the battery?

2017 AS FC.
I would say no issues; I have my knife-disconnect switch thrown to "off" so no battery connected to my AS currently. I am plugged in to shore power and have been using the furnace and lights as needed last few days to keep from freezing here in TX; no issues But hey, what do I know...
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Old 12-09-2017, 06:07 PM   #10
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the converter needs/depends upon a battery being in place.

the battery acts like a large capacitor to clean up and reduce the noise output. The battery is a reactive competent(like coils and capacitors) unlike a resister that are simply passive.

remove it at your peril. some devices may not behave nicely to the dirty power coming out
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:46 AM   #11
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the converter needs/depends upon a battery being in place.

the battery acts like a large capacitor to clean up and reduce the noise output. The battery is a reactive competent(like coils and capacitors) unlike a resister that are simply passive.

remove it at your peril. some devices may not behave nicely to the dirty power coming out
My rig works fine without battery's connected, with the Boondocker Converter. From the manual: "Filtered DC Output (Works with or without a battery)". We checked voltage with fans and pump on/off; 13.2V steady read with multi-meter and also at the panel.

Progressive Dynamics also has a Charge Wizard which operates similarly, I believe. Makes sense it does not need batteries connected to run the DC components...it's a multi-stage converter when connected for charging but it still converts ac-dc using "smart" technology, right?
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waninae39 View Post
the converter needs/depends upon a battery being in place.

the battery acts like a large capacitor to clean up and reduce the noise output. The battery is a reactive competent(like coils and capacitors) unlike a resister that are simply passive.

remove it at your peril. some devices may not behave nicely to the dirty power coming out
Depends on the age and design of the converter. The PD9260 I put in my Safari 25 said the output was clean and regulated and did not require batteries. I'm using the Parallax I took out as a bench supply for 12 volts on sensitive radio equipment and it also works fine.

Al
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