Since it's questionable as to whether I can repair my existing black tank I have been looking at new tanks. All the tanks that I am seeing have the 3" outlet that discharges to the bottom of a side of the tank instead of the way my original tank (that was above the floor) 3" discharge is directly below where the toilet inlet is and drains from the bottom of the tank. I know I can have a tank made to the original specs at a cost premium so was wondering if it is a big deal to have a bottom of the side discharge instead of directly below toilet inlet? Sorry, but I have never had a trailer before so all this is a learning experience for me and am thankful for all the help on this forum.
You can repair the tank as long as you have all the pieces. If you can't just patch it with fiberglass you can enclose the complete tank in fiberglass using the original as an included mold.
Go to any boat supply or auto body supply house and they will have the fiberglass material and the epoxy to coat it with.
Once the glass is applied recoat it 3 or 4 time with epoxy per the instructions and you will have a bomb proof tank. I would use 6 oz. material.
If you have a local crack I would patch it first with glass and then enclose the whole tank.
Sand the area you are glassing with at least 80 grit sandpaper.
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I needed a replacement for my 68 Trade Wind. Old tank was beyond salvaging. After looking around, I ponied up and got a replacement from Inland. It was an exact replacement. The cost was more than a generic tank, but it fit, and time saved was worth the extra money over trying to make something work.
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68 TWind
I needed a replacement for my 68 Trade Wind. Old tank was beyond salvaging. After looking around, I ponied up and got a replacement from Inland. It was an exact replacement. The cost was more than a generic tank, but it fit, and time saved was worth the extra money over trying to make something work.
I don't even have vintage - but I'll chime in that getting the RIGHT thing is always easier and faster to install - and usually more cost effective and durable than other solutions. It probably is possible to encase your tank in fiberglass. It's also possible to modify the drain system. It's a cash vs. time vs. work question.
But this is a black tank - not a job I'd want to have to do over EVER. If you're keeping the Airstream for say 20 years, amortize the cost over that time. Pony up for the new one if you can afford it.
Just my .02 Paula
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I don't think that Inland is going to have a tank for his Silverstream. The tank I ordered does not have the fitting installed but I can install them exactly where I want with common ABS adhesive. The best part is the tank only cost 70 bucks.
Kip, you're probably right about Inland not having a tank. Where you are a tad wrong is about my trailer, it's a Silver Streak not Stream. I can tell you I am darn thankful that this Airstream forum exists, because there is almost nothing for my SS. They are similar enough that most info will work on either. BTW which tank did you buy?
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I bought the HT486 bottom drain, and after looking at my invoice I paid 85.00. I am using a a wet bath layout next to the wheel well so I needed a longer narrower one. A portion of it will extend under the fridge and the toilet will set on top of the tank. I am also raising the shower/bathroom floor up a couple of inches so I will have better drainage of the shower p-trap into the new gray tanks,and to prevent the gray water from sloushing up into the shower pan. I also needed some room to run the gray tank vent and to route the sink drain as it will set outside of the frame rail, along with getting the gray lines inboard of the blacktank 3" drain line. The floor area under the shower pan is going to be very busy with plumbing. Side bath next to the wheel well is challanging at best for plumbing. Here's the rub, my tanks are in transit home now and I'm in Abbotsford British Columbia.
Thanks Kip, that is the exact tank that I am considering. Looks like it will fit above or below the floor if I choose. What size outlet for the gray did you choose? My black would be in the back of the trailer and the gray about 3 ft forward behind the back axel. The gray is 10" deep and the black is 7.5. Just trying to get my head around how to 'Y' into the black outlet and have correct slope for drainage from the gray at same time not hanging too low with all the plumbing. Fun stuff.
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Actually that tank is going to be taller then the 7.5" shown. The Drawing has a dimension that is 8.75 at the bottom of the slope but something is screwy with the drawing as it also shows it to be 6". I will just have to wait and see what it comes it at. That dimension will determine how much I raise the shower floor. I don't want to be on my tiptoes setting on the stool. I plan on using 1.5 dia. plumbing for all the gray tank plumbing. I have 5" to work in to make all the slopes happy and still have it all within the confines of the bellypan. I'm not sure how I'm going to tee the black and gray together to a commom outlet yet. I'm sure that It will all come together while I'm on my back under the trailer. My gray tanks are only 4" tall.
I'm still shopping for a new black tank. I'd like to get one bigger than the original. If your interested in buying an original size tank, check out Inland RV.
When I looked at the tanks at RV surplus I realized that there would be a problem with fitting a rectangle into the curved back corner of the trailer. Now I see why with the corner chopped off in your picture. It might be easier to make a tank using plywood and fiberglass / epoxy except for the issue of bonding any PVC or ABS parts to the fiberglass. I guess I'll keep looking also.
We just started building one out of plywood and fiberglass for our '65 Caravel. I'll be sure to take pics and post them. Take a look at the West Systems site for examples of similar construction.
Since we'll only be able to fit about 23 gallons of grey tank storage above the axles, I wasn't worried about the size of the black tank. We stayed with the original size. Making one a bit bigger would be very little additional effort.
We bought a cable-actuated Valterra valve (TC372) and plan to make a flange out of fiberglass/epoxy to mate to it -- thus avoiding the need to bond to ABS. Essentially, we're duplicating the size of the 3" Slip Hub, along with the same bolt pattern. We'll bolt to the new flange using a standard Valterra gasket.
That's cool, John! Are you planning the a similar built- up fiberglass flange for the toilet and vent pipe? I suppose on the toilet flange, a steel toilet plate could be incorporated into the mix.
If anyone is curious, you can check out my wood core fiberglass kayak building journal to see some epoxy / fiberglass construction. Plywood is much easier to work with than the cedar strips I usedin the boat.
Nothing nastier than a black tank! We went with a composting toilet. Very easy to use, no black tank, no odor, no chemicals, no drains, empty it a few times A YEAR! For more information for your application, send me a PM.
I've been trying to talk the wife (unsuccessfully so far) into going with a porta potty. Its so hard to look into the toilet area with its pristine sub floor and marmoleum and consider cutting holes. The PO removed and discarded the lower fiberglass section of the bathroom so that left me with finding alternatives. I was happy to see that Airstream put aluminum walls back there and zolatoned them even though the fiberglass went on over it. The great part of a porta potty is being able to empty it into any toilet, even if I have to bring the porta potty home from the RV storage place in the truck. But then, I'm always driven to put the trailer back as much like the original as possible. I went ahead and put toilet plumbing and vent in anyway. If I do buy / build a black tank, I'll cover it with an aluminum cover of some sort. Thanks to everyone, especially 65CV for the ideas and encouragement.
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