Brake issue

[Creola]

We have a 2017 30 ft International Serenity with about 12,000 miles on it. We pulled into our site after a 100 mile trip and I double checked our TPMS display before shutting it down. The right rear tire showed a reading of 15 degrees warmer than the other 3. A physical check verified a much warmer wheel, no need to use the IR gun. We set up an appointment and towed the trailer down to a trailer repair shop to determine the cause. Evidently the spring on the self adjuster failed and the adjuster fell out. The photo of our brake assembly show what’s left of the adjuster sitting on the magnet. The other photo is a screen grab from eTrailer video showing an intact self adjusting assembly.
All wheel bearings appear to be in good shape.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Good catch... 👍
Not an uncommon recent concern.🥴

Forgive me...an old bucklenuster here.
Just what I would do...get rid of the 'auto' stuff and adjust by hand.

Bob
🇺🇸

[GCinSC2]

Suggest contacting your dealer if under warranty Airstream if necessary and finally Dexter.

If you search forum you will find similar to identical failure modes.

I’m installing new brakes on a friends 2017 tomorrow due to same RH self adjuster dropping down and causing
brake failure.

Gary

[polarlyse]

Ive recently been in contact with a shop to put new axles in and the question was asked about manual / self adjust. I have self adjusting brakes on it now, I put them on myself from Dexter and they have worked well and been trouble free. However, with this recent issue having been such a frequent problem I think I'll go back to manual. I don't know why but this has been a fairly common thing recently.

[GCinSC2]

Maybe a periodic visual inspection can help you. Leave it on the ground wheels on. Slide under and with a flashlight inspect the two notches at the bottom looking for the adjusting star wheel and adjusting lever. After looking you’ll be able to easily see parts in position or not. Next look at 3 and 9 o’clock positions on backing plate look for the shoe retaining pin heads. If missing you’ll see a 1/4” or so hole w/o the head if the pin showing.

If you see brakes making heat from normal braking and hardware in place consider those good signs.

Which one is better? No comment. Manual has less parts but requires adjustments.

We’re installing new self adj right now, owners choice. Drums go on next.

[PKI]

Self adjusting brakes have been used for years with minimal problems/failures. IMHO, going to manual is not a wise tactic. The risk of failure does not justify the change and associated periodic manual adjustment. If you are not happy with your self adjusters, go to disk brakes. Pat

[Action]

Secondary shoe looks pretty worn out.

<><><><><><><><><><><>Action

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by Action

Secondary shoe looks pretty worn out.

<><><><><><><><><><><>Action

Did you see the remains of the adjuster?

[Action]

I did.

There is usually a spring that keeps the bottom of the shoes together. If that spring fails AND the adjuster does not expand, the worn shoes moved out so far the brake shoe adjuster falls out of the grooves at the bottom of the shoes. Causing the issue as pictured.

Shoes will expand to stop the spinning brake drum. If the adjuster does not expand out at least as fast as the shoes wear, at some point upon application of the brakes, the adjuster will fall out if the spring is missing or broken. Technically the spring isn't needed if the adjuster is expanding as the shoes wear.

>>>>>>>Action

[GCinSC2]

And that adjuster and spring falling out and rolling around at the bottom is exactly what we found on a 2017 two weekends ago. Owner chose to replace all four self adjusters with new complete self adj assemblies.

I’ll write a thread after one more item has been
addressed.

And the bottom adjuster spring would also pull the shoes back and keep against the adjuster and from them casually rubbing on the drum.

A very interesting project.

[Creola]

The pad on the left side of the photo was worn and gauged from a piece of the spring or adjuster. I just had the one assembly replaced until I get home. I am planning on replacing tires and will replace the other assemblies then. Leaning towards staying with self adjusting. Thanks GCinSC2 for the info on visual inspection. BTW, I noticed the Dexter date stamp shows April 2016. Would be interested in production date of other failed assemblies.

[Action]

Originally Posted by Creola

\

BTW, I noticed the Dexter date stamp shows April 2016. Would be interested in production date of other failed assemblies.

That would be typical of model year builds. Dexter is a vendor and they would have to manufacture, built and ship an assembly in advance of AS builing the trailer. In the auto world the new car production starts in July and runs to May. June of each year is to chnage over the assembly plant. So for a 2017 model run, a manufacture would start building 2017 models in July 2016 and those would hit the show room in August or so. By may 2017 the model year production would be over.

Not sure if AS does the same. And Dexter would have to ship prior to to July 2016 for the early build 2017 models if AS follows the same example.


>>>>>>>>>>Action

[GCinSC2]

Creola,

Do you plan on replacing them yourself?

Does your trailer have traditional tapered bearings or the Neverlube?

The trailer we repaired was Neverlube and required a good small external snap ring pliers, 1/2” drive 1 7/16” socket for the nut and a torque wrench capable of 145-155 lb/ft.

They are not difficult to work with if correct tools available.

At replacement it makes a great chance to check each power feed from 7 way and ground wire for resistance or open.

Gary

[Creola]

I was planning on replacing them myself. We have NeverLube bearings. Thanks for the info on the tools needed, I’ll have to pick up that size socket. I will be stopping in Jackson Center on my way home for some service and was planning on talking to them about the process.

[GCinSC2]

Creola

If you’d like a phone chat about it let me know. I can share pics via text or email.

Gary

[AirMiles]

Originally Posted by Creola

I was planning on replacing them myself. We have NeverLube bearings. Thanks for the info on the tools needed, I’ll have to pick up that size socket. I will be stopping in Jackson Center on my way home for some service and was planning on talking to them about the process.

Get a six-sided socket. I could only get a socket with more sides (12?). It is much easier to put 150# of torque, without stripping the nut, with a six-sided socket.

[Baby Zeppelin]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

Get a six-sided socket. I could only get a socket with more sides (12?). It is much easier to put 150# of torque, without stripping the nut, with a six-sided socket.

I bought socket and snap ring pliers some time ago and added them to my truck's tool kit. Already have the torque wrench for truck and trailer wheels.
Is any sort of puller needed to get the bearing assembly out of the axle tube, or are they in finger tight?

Just had the same style of sealed bearings replaced on my wife's Volvo and a special puller/installation tool was needed in that case, or I would have done it myself. The old style tapered roller bearings were much easier to deal with, IMHO.

[AirMiles]

Originally Posted by Baby Zeppelin

I bought socket and snap ring pliers some time ago and added them to my truck's tool kit. Already have the torque wrench for truck and trailer wheels.
Is any sort of puller needed to get the bearing assembly out of the axle tube, or are they in finger tight?

Just had the same style of sealed bearings replaced on my wife's Volvo and a special puller/installation tool was needed in that case, or I would have done it myself. The old style tapered roller bearings were much easier to deal with, IMHO.

The hub and bearings easily slide right off the spindle. The bearings stay pressed into the hub. I've heard the bearings are not easy to remove, but you don't need to remove the bearings from the hub to get to the brakes.

[GCinSC2]

The Neverlube hubs that we removed and replaced slid off and back on to the spindle easily. A light film of grease on spindle.

Replacing the Neverlube cartridge style bearing does require a hyd press or the screw type bearing puller tool set. I used one on my 2000 Beetle for front wheel cartridge bearings makes it easy.

The old classic tapered cup cone wheel bearings on pass cars were phased out with the introduction of front wheel drive.

Gary

[perryg114]

So what does a normal one look like? Hard to tell the point of failure from the broke photo. Replace the springs with higher quality ones. I love my self adjusters. I hate the non-linear nature of drum brakes though.





Perry