Details of changing tires

[sallye]

As relatively new Airstreamers, we greatly appreciate all the good information here, and all of the help you all give! You have saved us from more than one "ops"! Thanks!

I can't find information on my specific question about changing tires, so here goes. Be warned that I know little about this. . . .

We have 20 ft unit with a single axle - 15" tires. We are still on our first set of factory provided GMs and want to change them out this spring for, if I can find them, some better rated 15" Michelin tires.

(1) Should we also get a new spare? I'm wondering about what damage we could do using one GM and one Michelin should we have to change a tire on the road. (Actually, maybe I just talked myself into getting a spare also!)

(2) If you buy a spare, how is it balanced? Or, if you need to use the spare do you also have to, fairly soon, go in for a balancing? Is the tire balanced done on a machine or on the trailer? (See, I warned you I am really green at this!)

(3) Given the issues properly placing a jack under the AS, etc., should we do this at the dealer or could/would a good truck maintenance shop know to do that? Would we have to watch like a hawk to make sure they don't try to jack at the bumper?

(4) Can this be done while attached to the TV, or will it mean dis attaching at the shop? I would think that lowering the front jack and applying jacks to the side being worked on would be ok, but am wondering. . . .

(5) I'm assuming we are going to have to order the specific tires we want and take them with us to the shop, right? Or could we make an appointment someplace and have them shipped there for us? I was hoping we could make the change during our first spring trip, but don't have room in the TV to store them as we travel. . . . .

(6) We also want metal valve stems installed at the same time. I'm assuming any shop that can change tires will have no problem with that, right?

(7) Will we also have to buy the right valve stems to fit our TPMS or will they have them?

(8) Can anyone recommend a good place to do this in MA or NY?

(9) Finally, does the shop dispose of the old tires and/or is that an extra fee?

Thanks much!

[SSquared]

1) Your spare does not have to be an exact match for your other tires. Having the spare match matters more for a multi-axle trailer. But with a Bambi, a little difference is OK.

2) Tires are usually balanced using a machine in the shop, with the tire mounted on the rim and inflated. Make sure you tell the tire shop you want all the tires balanced. Some shops like to not balance trailer tires, or not balance the spare.

3) Any competent tire dealer can change the tires on your trailer. Yes, watch them like a hawk even if they have a good reputation.

4) The shop will probably have you pull or back your trailer to an open place at their location. You will leave the trailer attached. Set your parking brake. Chock the wheels of the tow vehicle, even though the shop will say you don't need to. They will slide a "floor jack" under your trailer and lift it one side at a time. Here is where you make sure they jack at the right spot.

5) You can call the shop to find out if they have the size and model tire you want in stock. Most independent shops can get most brands. They can order-in tires in a day or two in most cases.

6) Yes, any shop can provide metal stems. Make sure you ask for all-metal stems.

7) What kind of TPMS do you have? Do the senders screw on to the valve stems on the outside? Tell the tire shop you are going to use this type of TPMS. Remove the TPMS units before you pull into the shop, just to make sure they can't get lost in the shuffle.

9) The shop will normally take you old tires and charge a few dollars each for disposal.

Also, proper torque of the wheel nuts is important. Tell them the proper torque (the number is in your owner's manual). When they tighten the nuts, they should not just put them on with an air wrench. The final tighening should be done with a hand operated torque wrench (A long handled tool that either has a visible scale the technician looks at while tightening, or an adjustment the technician sets before cranking down on the nuts; this type will click or beep when the right degree of tightness is reached).

It is OK if they start by partially tightening with an air wrench, but if they do, they should have an limiter on the torque wrench (These limiters are called "torque sticks"; they look like just a length of steel that connects to the wrench but they are made to be flexible; they are usually painted a bright color).

Also to repeat something important in your owner's manual: Even when the wheel nuts are torqued perfectly, they can become loose. You need to go around and tighten each nut yourself several times after the tires are changed. I think the recommendation is to do it at 25, 50, and 100 miles. Check your manual. Because of this requirement, and the chance you might have to put on your spare yourself someday, it is good to carry a torque wrench with you and learn how to use it.

[sallye]

Thanks SSquared! Fabulous information!

We do carry a torque wrench and check the lug nuts it every time we move the trailer. Actually DH does that and I think he checks the TV tires often also. And we use it to check the nuts on the hitch also - something we learned in the forums, and which were very loose when we first did it! Accident averted.

And yes, our TPMS does screw on to the valve stems.

That bit about chocking the TV is something I wouldn't have thought of. Good advice and thanks again!

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by sallye

(1) Should we also get a new spare? I'm wondering about what damage we could do using one GM and one Michelin should we have to change a tire on the road. (Actually, maybe I just talked myself into getting a spare also!)

The old spare should be OK. It will likely be on a steel rim, not the alloy rims on your trailer anyway. Remember that tires deteriorate with age, not only with use.

I put a TPMS sensor on my spare so that I always know it is always inflated and ready to use.

[cazual6]

Originally Posted by Adventure.AS

The old spare should be OK. It will likely be on a steel rim, not the alloy rims on your trailer anyway. Remember that tires deteriorate with age, not only with use.

I put a TPMS sensor on my spare so that I always know it is always inflated and ready to use.

Good idea putting one on the spare. Didn't even think to do so. Thanks!

[Tbeck11931]

I would suggest calling ahead a setup a appointment with your tire dealer. Tell them what you want to do. I use Discount Tire I would suggest going with a larger wheel and upgrade the tires. They can measure your lug nut pattern order your 16" wheels and tires. It will slightly raise your trailer which will help with tail dragging.
I did this with my 23' Flying Cloud FB and thrilled with the results. They balanced all my tires and I also bought the road hazard / free balance warranty.
They enjoyed working on her since they very seldom see one come to the shop.
Not t mention the stress lifted off my shoulders wondering about those Marathon tires. It made my 3 week trip last July worry free!
Good Luck and have lots of fun.
Thomas

[Bgibbs]

Don't ever travel "worry free". There are so many things laying out there on the road just waiting for one of your tires. A couple of years ago, I picked up a pair of pliers in the rear tire of my TV. The handle went thru the tread and the steel belts directed it back out thru the tread. Talk about being difficult to remove. Drove back to Texas from Florida and never lost any air. Yokohama replaced the tire when I got home. Dang, one of the handles broke-they were nice pliers.

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by sallye

As relatively new Airstreamers, we greatly appreciate all the good information here, and all of the help you all give! You have saved us from more than one "ops"! Thanks!

.....

Thanks much!

Sallye, ....... most of your ?'s can be addressed by the tire dealer

but here goes re the tire options

You have to remember that a thread's comments relate to a lot of different TT, sizes, axels and as such per tire load requirements. So when someone says a P235/75/15 works, it may work for their TT, often a dual axle, but not a 20 Bambi.

It all boils down to New 16” Sendels and Michelin Defender series LTX LT225/75R16 115/112R (2680 lbs) (16” LT Michelin Ribs are pricey but also a great choice)
or
15” Nokians (Nokian Rotiiva AT All Season LT235/75R15 116/113 S load rated E @ 2,760 and do not need to be derated), Maxxis (ST Radial M8008 235/75R15) or Carlisle’s (not sure of the spec) on the OEM 15” rims. There may be others but I haven’t found them. To my knowledge, Michelin does not make a 15” Defender 225/75R15 or otherwise. They do make a (P) 235/75R15/XL 109T rated at 2271 Lbs and must still be be de-rated.

Personally I’m favoring the 15” Nokians so I don’t need new rims. I’m in the process of rim changes for higher load rated tires for my TV so not too excited about another double dip on the rims when I can make the 15’s for the TT work (hopefully by this spring) . I should also say that while recent posts re the Maxxi’s have been good, the more I talk to folks around here, where we have a lot of trailers (ag, horse etc) that carry heavy loads on a variety of not so good roads, the response is very good. At Home Depot today I parked next to a new Cad SUV and noticed it was sporting Nokians. I think they are catching on.

I would start reading here. This is a thread on Maxxi’s. (which is offers a 15” option for 20’s) post #7 discussion applicable to the 20’s
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...es-160907.html

This thread above contains links within the post (2nd from top) to a 15” alternatives (Nokian tires) to GYM’s & 3rd from top is a continued discussion of the math as it relates to the 20’s. Further down are some general links

Re the TMPS I’m planning on the TST 507’s as they are an exterior pass thru type so can be easily removed to change the batteries. TST or Dill are to two most common manufacturer’s as I recollect.

post #11
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f438...ml#post1892857


here is a link from Peter (OTRA15) post 1249 that I saved for reference.
I believe there are a few not listed that are new to their 20’s & 20’s thread but have converted to the Michelin's.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...ml#post1849796

Let us know on the 20's thread where you land.


Good Luck


Bob


p.s I’m getting the spare at the same time since I don’t have to buy new 16” rims.



p.s.s. Note Wal-Mart (quoted in one of the above threads) has bumped their price to about $150 but shop around. I found some locally for about $125.

[cando]

Watch metal valve caps on tires. I put some on the AS that i thought looked good but when I went to check the air pressure in the tires i couldn't get the caps off. After a couple of days with lubricant and lots of pliers assist I finally was able to get them off. The internet was quite helpful as I never heard of this problem before--and I have owned vehicles since a 1960 Chevy.

[sallye]

Wow - you people are GOOD! Such a lot of good information.

I did a quick calculation on 15" vs 16" and found that the 15" do about 6% more revolutions per distance traveled, which is why I suspect people change them out?? We don't do any off-roading except for low speeds in the campgrounds, so I'm not really worried about it. And we try to keep our speeds at <=60 and are in no hurry to get anywhere.

I'm hoping to avoid that expense and just get better tires, and am leaning toward the Maxxis (ST225/75R15 10PR TL M8008 ST RADIAL). They are 10 ply - which I guess the "10" is about. The weight rating on them is 2830, and since the 20' AS is only supposed to be <=5000 lb, that's a fair amount of "extra." They are not cheap, but . . . .

My understanding is that the 235 is just a bit wider than the 225. While that might be good, I can barely get the tire covers on now without ripping up my hands.

As for the TPMS, it's the kind that is screwed onto the valve stem, and I plan to stick with that so I don't have to purchase those all over again. The TPMS vendor says it doesn't matter because they are very light, but I'll still get metal valve stems as long as I'm changing out the tires anyway. The manual does say that the valve stems should be metal.

We also have to double check our little air compressor because the current GMs are supposed to be at 65psi and these are,supposed to be at 80psi. I'm assuming the compressor can do that since it's only an extra 15psi, but need to verify.