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05-09-2005, 12:33 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master 
1984 31' Airstream310
Dunsmuir
, California
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,336
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Help with Air Conditioner seal
Hello all. I've searched for this information and not found it.
Recently the air conditioner seals were replaced on my 1984 310 Limited MH.
We've been having a lot of rain here in Northern California and a small leak has developed. With a hose I think I have determined that the leak is at the rear AC. I tightened the bolts holding the AC on and the leak slowed but did not stop. At this point the bolts are much tighter on the rear AC (which leaks)
Than on the front AC (which does not leak).
MY question: Does anyone know how tight these bolts are supposed to be (torque setting would be nice)?
Second question: Any ideas on stopping the leak?
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05-09-2005, 12:39 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guy99
Hello all. I've searched for this information and not found it.
Recently the air conditioner seals were replaced on my 1984 310 Limited MH.
We've been having a lot of rain here in Northern California and a small leak has developed. With a hose I think I have determined that the leak is at the rear AC. I tightened the bolts holding the AC on and the leak slowed but did not stop. At this point the bolts are much tighter on the rear AC (which leaks)
Than on the front AC (which does not leak).
MY question: Does anyone know how tight these bolts are supposed to be (torque setting would be nice)?
Second question: Any ideas on stopping the leak?
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Most A/C installation instructions say to tighten the bolts until the gasket has compressed to 60%.
Is it poosible that maybe something is interfering with the gasket to keep it from sealing? Are the gaskets new or old? It could also be that your roof has compressed so that it is not making good seal with the gasket.
I would remove the interior shroud and have someone spray water at the A/C from the outside and see if I can tell where the water is leaking. You can also sit out there while it is raining and see what you can see.
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05-09-2005, 12:47 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master 
1984 31' Airstream310
Dunsmuir
, California
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,336
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Gaskets are fairly new (less than 4 months). I have the inner shroud off and can't see where water enters. Actually the water runs out at a window, but I know that it is the AC to blame based on dectective work with a hose during a lull in the rains.
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05-10-2005, 11:10 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master 
2004 28' Classic
Currently Looking...
huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 866
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last year i replaced my ac units and i called the service center to get guideance on the install. the gasket on the bottom of the ac unit is removed , i didnt do that i cut the gasket to fit the pan. the say par bond or vulkem the ac to the pan . then sit in place seal with vulkeem of course and seal the inside surfaces with par bond. make sure you have the unit sitting perfect in the hole as it could leak if not sitting level on top.
if the ac is leaking into your unit and it is sealed to the top . clean the hose out. had that problem . maybe a bad hose.
also tightening the bolts snug if you over tighten it will only distort the curved outside and inside surfaces. the vulkeem holds the unit in place, if you think im kidding try to remove the pan. or the unit.
__________________
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2007 chevrolet 2500 duramax 6.6
allison 6 speed
2004 classic 28 WB , Pro Pride P-3 hitch
centramatics wheel ballancers 300-556
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05-10-2005, 11:33 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,183
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I did not Vlukem mine to the roof.
Most A/C units are designed to make a seal on a flat surface. The gasket allows for any distortion in the roof. Carrier and Dometic installation instructions stipulate that you are to compress the gasket to 60% of the uncompressed height. If you over tighten you will flatten the outer skin.
My Minuet had no A/C installed. I had to measure from "Rib 0" to know where to cut the hole. I noticed that the supports for the front and the back of the A/C were pretty far away from the A/C hole. I used 1.75" aluminum C-channel for the front and back of the A/C hole. This way, when it compressed, it pushed against the C-channel instead of "squishing" the inner and outer aluminum.
I am not a fan of using Vulkem on something like the A/C unit. THis is my personal preference. I feel that the A/C is designed so that the gasket performs the sealing and mounting purposes.
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05-10-2005, 01:27 PM
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#6
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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I used vulkem between the drain pan and the trailer roof. I rely on the AC gasket for the seal between the AC and drainpan.
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05-10-2005, 03:27 PM
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#7
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Aluminut
2004 25' Safari
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, Illinois
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,477
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Just as an FYI....Airstream only uses Vulkem in the wheel well areas....it's either Silkaflex or the other kind which eludes me right now (it's grey and they use it on window seams and the likes), but I have all three at home since my trip to the factory.
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05-10-2005, 03:31 PM
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#8
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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I believe you're thinking of Parbond....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
Just as an FYI....Airstream only uses Vulkem in the wheel well areas....it's either Silkaflex or the other kind which eludes me right now (it's grey and they use it on window seams and the likes), but I have all three at home since my trip to the factory. 
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05-10-2005, 07:41 PM
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#9
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Aluminut
2004 25' Safari
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, Illinois
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,477
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Yup...that's the other stuff....thanks!
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