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Old 12-20-2020, 10:53 AM   #21
"Cloudsplitter"

 
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas , Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
Images: 1
^
It doesn't 'by-pass' the water heater?🥴

It does on "Cloudsplitter", or has done for 17 Winterizations.

Yes...I do drain and blow the heater.

Bob
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Old 12-20-2020, 10:58 AM   #22
4 Rivet Member
 
2019 27' Globetrotter
2023 30' Classic
Denver , North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 278
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by lsbrodsky View Post
See post #15....I was trying, nicely, to say that hot water requires the valve in the open position.
Larry
Sorry Lary, that was posted while I was writing my post and I didn't see it.

Dave S
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Old 12-20-2020, 11:02 AM   #23
4 Rivet Member
 
2019 27' Globetrotter
2023 30' Classic
Denver , North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 278
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
^
It doesn't 'by-pass' the water heater?🥴

It does on "Cloudsplitter", or has done for 17 Winterizations.

Yes...I do drain and blow the heater.

Bob
🇺🇸
Bob

The older trailers, not sure what year it was changed, do have a true bypass albeit using three valves to do it.

Dave S
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Old 12-20-2020, 06:31 PM   #24
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1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville , New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,166
You can go outside the trailer and check to see if the pressure relief valve is hot. If that valve or the tank is hot the water heater is working. If the water heater is hot it is probably the mixing valve causing problems.
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Old 12-20-2020, 07:05 PM   #25
"Cloudsplitter"

 
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas , Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by link2dks View Post
Bob

The older trailers, not sure what year it was changed, do have a true bypass albeit using three valves to do it.

Dave S
Bob
🇺🇸


Ahhh...another...
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Old 12-20-2020, 08:39 PM   #26
Rivet Master

 
2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
Heh, my tankless water heater only needs a supply shutoff valve. It’s easy to tell if it’s set wrong...

The original Atwood 6 gallon had and needed the three-valve bypass setup.
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Old 12-27-2020, 09:56 AM   #27
Rivet Master
 
2019 25' International
Washington , Washington, D.C.
Join Date: Oct 2014
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Thank you all for your inputs. I moved the yellow switch to OPEN and several hours later when I was back in the AS, there was hot water. I believe my main problem was impatience. To recap: I de-winterized like I always have (successfully) but when water did not immediately get hot, I decided maybe I had screwed up and closed yellow knob and kept trying to heat the water. I think the reason I didn’t fry anything is that I had previously let water sputter and then flow out of all the faucets. IAW the owners’ manual, the sputtering occurs because “the water heater is being filled and air is being pushed out through the lines.” Regardless, thank you again. I travel alone so you all being there in my occasional hours of need is very comforting.
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Old 12-27-2020, 11:21 AM   #28
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1977 31' Sovereign
Rochester , WASHINGTON
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 631
Good advice above.The problem is not clearly marking what the different valves do, for the non mechanical owners.My advice would be operating valves, with another person turning water at a sink on and off.Also, you must be very careful to make sure hot water heater is full of water, before energizing the hearing element.The element is a $10 part at Home Depot for my late 70s Landyacht.Having a couple spares is good idea, they seem to have a couple year life if used full time.
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