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12-20-2020, 10:53 AM
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#21
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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^
It doesn't 'by-pass' the water heater?🥴
It does on "Cloudsplitter", or has done for 17 Winterizations.
Yes...I do drain and blow the heater.
Bob
🇺🇸
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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12-20-2020, 10:58 AM
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#22
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4 Rivet Member
2019 27' Globetrotter
2023 30' Classic
Denver
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsbrodsky
See post #15....I was trying, nicely, to say that hot water requires the valve in the open position.
Larry
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Sorry Lary, that was posted while I was writing my post and I didn't see it.
Dave S
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12-20-2020, 11:02 AM
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#23
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4 Rivet Member
2019 27' Globetrotter
2023 30' Classic
Denver
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
^
It doesn't 'by-pass' the water heater?🥴
It does on "Cloudsplitter", or has done for 17 Winterizations.
Yes...I do drain and blow the heater.
Bob
🇺🇸
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Bob
The older trailers, not sure what year it was changed, do have a true bypass albeit using three valves to do it.
Dave S
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12-20-2020, 06:31 PM
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#24
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Rivet Master
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville
, New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,166
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You can go outside the trailer and check to see if the pressure relief valve is hot. If that valve or the tank is hot the water heater is working. If the water heater is hot it is probably the mixing valve causing problems.
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12-20-2020, 07:05 PM
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#25
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by link2dks
Bob
The older trailers, not sure what year it was changed, do have a true bypass albeit using three valves to do it.
Dave S
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Bob
🇺🇸
Ahhh...another...
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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12-20-2020, 08:39 PM
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#26
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Rivet Master
2007 22' International CCD
Corona
, California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
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Heh, my tankless water heater only needs a supply shutoff valve. It’s easy to tell if it’s set wrong...
The original Atwood 6 gallon had and needed the three-valve bypass setup.
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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12-27-2020, 09:56 AM
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#27
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Rivet Master
2019 25' International
Washington
, Washington, D.C.
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,272
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Thank you all for your inputs. I moved the yellow switch to OPEN and several hours later when I was back in the AS, there was hot water. I believe my main problem was impatience. To recap: I de-winterized like I always have (successfully) but when water did not immediately get hot, I decided maybe I had screwed up and closed yellow knob and kept trying to heat the water. I think the reason I didn’t fry anything is that I had previously let water sputter and then flow out of all the faucets. IAW the owners’ manual, the sputtering occurs because “the water heater is being filled and air is being pushed out through the lines.” Regardless, thank you again. I travel alone so you all being there in my occasional hours of need is very comforting.
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12-27-2020, 11:21 AM
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#28
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Rivet Master
1977 31' Sovereign
Rochester
, WASHINGTON
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 631
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Good advice above.The problem is not clearly marking what the different valves do, for the non mechanical owners.My advice would be operating valves, with another person turning water at a sink on and off.Also, you must be very careful to make sure hot water heater is full of water, before energizing the hearing element.The element is a $10 part at Home Depot for my late 70s Landyacht.Having a couple spares is good idea, they seem to have a couple year life if used full time.
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