Maiden Voyage and made some mistakes

[WadeF]

My wife and I took our newly acquired 2018 25RB FC on its maiden voyage over Memorial day (she is ex-Air Force and awesome) but we did have a couple mishaps and I have a couple questions.

First question is, how hard should it be to close the door? I have read on here that the stabilizers deployed with too much force can cause some alignment issues but I was careful to hardly put any pressure on them and the door was still difficult to close or slam in our case.

Second and most embarrassing, was when I was hooking up to the TV I raised the tongue while the stabilizers were deployed one of the rear stabilizers is a little bent up but not awful the other was fine (fortunately the ground was fairly soft). My main concern is if I may have done more serious damage to the frame?

I have since made a checklist that I will use to prevent these types of issues going forward.

[Morgan guy]

I doubt that you have damaged the frame. I don't think the stabilizer can exert that much force. It is true that having the stabilizers too tight can twist the frame (temporarily) and cause the door to be hard to close.

[SteveSueMac]

WadeF - if it's any consolation, I've done the same to my trailer 2 or 3 times over the last 5 years - all good - I don't recommend it, but unless you picked up the a-frame a couple feet, you're probably ok.

The doors can be tricky and sometimes need adjustment by the dealer/factory. Does it work fine when the stabilizers are up?

[WadeF]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

WadeF - if it's any consolation, I've done the same to my trailer 2 or 3 times over the last 5 years - all good - I don't recommend it, but unless you picked up the a-frame a couple feet, you're probably ok.

The doors can be tricky and sometimes need adjustment by the dealer/factory. Does it work fine when the stabilizers are up?

Thanks for the replies! The door is still a bit hard to close when off the stabilizers and I did notice the weather stripping on the screen door near the upper hinge has a fairly decent rub and has been almost scraped off. I think I will take it into the dealer to see if they can adjust it.

[SteveSueMac]

The good news is you have a 2 year warranty. If your dealer can't help, you can always take it to the Mothership - I did with my door and a few other punch items my dealer wasn't too good at (that dealer is no longer...). Just keep a good email trail and keep the factory informed of what you're doing with your dealer and when. If you try to have that repaired in year 1 and it still doesn't work, you might get 2 years from the date of the repair...just keep a good relationship with the factory service guys.

There's also a YouTube video of how these doors get adjusted. Not for the faint of heart [emoji50]

It'll all work out. Happy camping!!

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Simple answer - the door should close easily. Give it a modest shove and you should hear a "thunk" as it closes and latches. Any hang up in the process is ... err ... wrong ... . Let the dealer fiddle with it and see how well it works after he gives it a shot. I'd also have him look at the stabilizer. A very basic question would be - is it still sound? You don't want it to do something weird three trips down the road. ( = you get it down .... sprong ... it will not come back up .... you are stuck ... ).

It's an adventure !!! Enjoy it !!! None of this is outside the realm of things I've done .... errr ... multiple times ...

Bob

[Haulin8or]

Hey, I have been camping with trailers for over 20 years and just about pushed mine off the back of the site pad and down a hill yesterday while hitching up! (long story!) Things happen! Would be nice if we could stay in front of them all! I have also done the stabilizer thing you mentioned!

I sometimes wonder about my door too. Seems like you have to slam it to get it to shut right. Going to have the dealer look at it when we get there next time.

Enjoy the new camper!!

[Deeno]

AT first, our door seemed harder to close than I was comfortable with. I did "adjust the fit of the screen door a tad, and, with several trips performed, the door seems better. It still needs a "firm hand" to get both latches engaged.

Being AF myself, I LOVE checklists. I took the examples from the AS tech manual, and re-arranged some steps from what I saw on the LoLoHo series, as well as my experience in task flow. IF you'd like some help, email me and I'll send you my checklists. You could easily modify them according to your equipment.
(crmdeen@aol.com)

[MattsGal]

We also just bought a 2018 25' RB FC and have camped twice so far (4 nights total). I really only feel that the door is hard to close when I'm inside pulling it shut. From the outside, it does seem normal. So while I had to try it a couple of times (from the inside) I did quickly get used to the amount of force necessary and I no longer feel it's a problem.

However, I will be checking for wear and tear on the weather stripping, so thanks for that call out. Since we have reservations all throughout the summer, if we don't see anything unusual, we'll just wait for fall/winter to have the dealer take a look.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by WadeF

First question is, how hard should it be to close the door? I have read on here that the stabilizers deployed with too much force can cause some alignment issues but I was careful to hardly put any pressure on them and the door was still difficult to close or slam in our case.

Congratulations on your first journey, of which I am sure everyone hopes will be your first of many wonderful adventures.

1. Check around the door to see if the gap is "about equal" and if the door surface is consistently level with the door frame. If out of alignment, might need some tweaking by the dealer.

2. Our door latch is stubborn sometimes. We use a lubricant spray on the door closure. This makes the door closing much smoother. We get that solid closing thump, and unlatching is easier.

Originally Posted by WadeF

Second and most embarrassing, was when I was hooking up to the TV I raised the tongue while the stabilizers were deployed one of the rear stabilizers is a little bent up but not awful the other was fine (fortunately the ground was fairly soft). My main concern is if I may have done more serious damage to the frame?

Welcome to the Oops club. If bent, recommend replacing. We replaced our curb front because of a similar episode. :-( We have not detected any frame issues from the single time.

Hope you can enjoy you FC every chance y'all get.

73/gus

[kendrick.l.j]

I doubt you did any major damage. When I started my adventure 18 months or so ago I had a couple of booboo’s but didn’t cause any real problems for myself. I would suggest having the dealer adjust your door. Most things I try to do myself but the door adjustment can be a PITA if you haven’t done it and I know of 2 other new AS owners that made the problem worse so it’s one of the things I let guys at JC do for me. I have a standing appointment once a year to go over whatever I might have killed in the previous 12 months.
I now live by checklists. It is just too easy to forget something especially if you are in a hurry. It took me about a month on the road to tweak it just right. It has helped. Well, except for the time that I pulled out of the campsite with the door wide open....now “lock door” is on the list.

[Sol]

At first, the door needed a 'slam' every time to shut completely. Dealer has taken care of it and now it is good.

Below is the check list I compiled from mainly this forum (Thank you everybody!). I don't think it is a perfect list but at least it could serve as a starting point.

A. Campsite Departure Checklist - Outside
Dump holding tanks if at a full-hookup campsite
Stow outside gear and awnings
Check tire pressures
Disconnect and stow service lines (water, sewer, power, cable TV)
Lock storage compartments
Raise stabilizer jacks
Connect tow vehicle
Connect 7-way cable and breakaway cable
Cross and attach safety chains
Check brake and turn signals
Remove wheel chocks or between-wheel locks
Raise hitch jack
Lock Airstream door and deadbolt
Raise steps


B. Departure 'Walk Behind' Checklist
Verify step is up
Close outside kitchen vent
Verify power cord is stored
Verify water and sewer hoses are stored
Double check all hitch connections
Look under, over, and around rig for any overlooked items
Assure that turn signal and brake lights function
Verify hitch jack is up
Verify between-wheel locks and chocks have been removed
Move rig and check that all wheels are rolling
Verify brakes are functioning
Verify leveling blocks are stored
Check trailer brakes


C. Campsite Departure Checklist - Inside
Secure, stow, and latch for travel anything that will move, fall, fly, or open
Close overhead vents
Switch refrigerator to Gas if not automatic… or turn propane and refrigerator off for safe travels
Bag trash for disposal
Close all windows
Turn off water pump and water heater
Turn off furnace unless traveling in below freezing temps
Turn off 12-volt lights
Turn off fantastic fan switch for both
Secure TVs in position

D. Campsite Arrival Checklist - Outside
Before entering site, preview for utility hook-ups, tree limbs, ditches, picnic tables, guy wires, poles, concrete patios with sharp edges, rocks, or any other objects that can damage your rig due to driver positioning error.
Position rig at site within reach of electric, water, and sewer services
Check AC shore power for correct polarity
Level trailer side to side with boards or blocks
Set chocks and wheel lock
Unhitch tow vehicle, dismount towing mirrors if applicable
Level trailer front to rear with jack post
Set stabilizer jacks, awnings, TV antenna and/or cable TV connection
Turn on propane
Stow/lock up trailer hitch parts
Open outside kitchen vent
Connect utilities if available (water, sewer, electric, phone)


E. Campsite Arrival Checklist - Inside
Turn on water heater
Set up décor
Open vents/windows or set heating/AC
Switch refrigerator setting to Auto if necessary

[GammaDog]

Bless me Wally, for I have sinned. I, too once raised the tongue to hitch up without remembering to raise the rear stabilizers. (thanks, all... I've never confessed that before... I feel relieved... and have never noticed any damage that resulted from that mistake.)

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Most basic campsite checklist:

Somebody does the inside and somebody else does the outside. Only when both are done does the "other person" audit what was done in the other area. Same process with hook up. Somebody hooks it up and once they are done, somebody else checks it over. Finally when it's time to pull out, *both* do a walk around to double check it all.

The list is rarely the villain ...

Bob

[Johndews]

And one tip we can pass along from our own first experience is that we now NEVER move the AS with the door open. No jacking, stabilizing, leveling. Threw the door out of alignment. Open a window to communicate inside if you have someone watching the level for you as you raise or lower the tongue jack.

[DKGA]

I had the same door closing issue with my 2018 25ft.
I found the catcher bracket for the screen door was too far outboard. This would create a lot of effort to close the outer door.

[xisme2]

The door fit seems to be quite dependent on the frame alignment which is very affected by the rear stabilzer positioning. My Globetrotter door in order to operate smoothly requires "fine tuning" the stabilizers a bit. Bear in mind that if you are on anything but conc or pavement the ground will settle, even with fairly large pads under the stabilizers.

I think it's kind of a technique to closing the door, firm with a bit of follow through. I remember the salesman telling me it was fine to slam them hard, but that kind of goes against my grain. Try playing with that right rear stabilzer adjustment--you will need to use the tool or a 3/4 socket--doesn't take much.

[xisme2]

Thanks, I'll check that out.