Which Generator??

[Roadtech]

Originally Posted by capt_ron777

love the idea of the champion 3400 but many reviews on amazon say it doesn't run a 15,00btu ac, yet others do. Which is it? How can it be hit or miss. If I still have to add an easy start might as well get a ymaha/honda.

Runs mine fine on propane.

[Jerzmom3]

I just purchased the 16RB Bambi Sport. I plan on boondocking occasionally, unless I really get the hang of it. I have the 80w solar panel and of course the battery. The only things I need power for is the tv, microwave and air which is 11,000 btu. Can I get away with purchasing the Champion 3100 duel fuel instead of the 3400 duel fuel?

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Jerzmom3

I just purchased the 16RB Bambi Sport. I plan on boondocking occasionally, unless I really get the hang of it. I have the 80w solar panel and of course the battery. The only things I need power for is the tv, microwave and air which is 11,000 btu. Can I get away with purchasing the Champion 3100 duel fuel instead of the 3400 duel fuel?

Yes; the 3100 will work for your 13.5AC. If you are committed to propane, I would also look at the Honda 2200 with propane conversion from Genconnex along with the EasyStart option, assuming money is not an issue? Total investment likely around $2k, but the Honda 2200 is half the weight of the Champion dual fuel... Champion also works well, and does not need the EasyStart

http://www.genconnexdirect.net/honda...g_packages.htm

[Rzrbrn]

I have the Honda eu300is. It does a good job but is heavy and yet cannot power everything at the same time.

If, that is, when, I replace it, the generator will be either 2 of the Honda 2000's because they are far easier to handle, or go with the much larger and heavier 7000, which I would keep in the bed of the truck.

I do wish AS would locate a generator on board the trailer like is done with a toy hauler or motorhome, but I suppose there is not enough room.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Rzrbrn

I have the Honda eu300is. It does a good job but is heavy and yet cannot power everything at the same time.

If, that is, when, I replace it, the generator will be either 2 of the Honda 2000's because they are far easier to handle, or go with the much larger and heavier 7000, which I would keep in the bed of the truck.

I do wish AS would locate a generator on board the trailer like is done with a toy hauler or motorhome, but I suppose there is not enough room.

I wonder the same things. I, too, have a 3000. I never consider two 2000's because of the pull start and only a .8 gallon fuel tank.
The 7000 is expensive and BIG, so it never fits under a tonneau. I wish Honda made a 5000!
I sometimes consider a second 3000 to parallel, then I'd have the best of both worlds, except I'd have 300 pounds of generators to lug around.
Realistically, I don't run on generator enough to justify a bigger one, and somehow, I still love the 3000 over all others.
When home, I slide it onto a Harbor Freight hydraulic table, lower it and roll it into the garage where it lives on the table until next time. Easy/peasy.
(That reminds me to run it today to keep the fuel fresh.)

[Rzrbrn]

Molly's dad, you have hit it on the button.

I have a camper shell and bedslide which eats up my payload capacity, something I did not think about when I bought the Tundra. I don't like the looks of those lightweight aluminum camper shells but I may just go that way next time, and no bedslide.

I use an small engine hoist to move the Honda 3000 around. Works well enough, just would like the casters/wheels to be bigger so it would roll easier.

I run it dry when putting it up during the off season.

It is electric start and remote control neither of which I would not buy again, convenient but the battery adds weight and has to also be maintained.

[gypsydad]

The Champion DualFuel 3400 works fine for our use. I can run my AC and also appliances, TV, etc. I use strictly propane and it has electric start also. weighs in around 95lbs. I can lift it on/off the tailgate by myself. (still) It has wheels and the folding handle which works well for maneuvering or pulling it around the campsite if needed, such as under the awning in rain if I need to use it. We use portable solar most of the time when we have sun access, but the generator comes in handy for the AC if needed. We typically camp in the Rockies so not much need for AC. Florida and South Carolina last year, it did come in handy a couple times. For less than $1000, it's a solid generator for sure and does the job. Would buy it again..

[Rorschach]

I picked up the Westinghouse iGen 4500. It powers up everything our 19CB can throw at it, runs quiet (as quiet or quieter than the Honda), has the remote/electric start, is light enough to lift in and out of the truck, and fits under my tonneau on the Tundra.

Best of all: you can find it for under $1000 online.

Best value in generators out there.

[Johnnyooo]

You should check out the Honda 3000i ... it weighs 78 lbs, and is one of the quietest and the most reliable generators on the market.... I think it will handle your needs

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Rorschach

fits under my tonneau on the Tundra.

Point of order, I have the Leer 700 tonneau and the Honda EU3000is fits under it easily. No place in the tonneau is lower than the side of the bed. It uses the existing deck rail system and so no holes were drilled either.

Originally Posted by Rorschach

I picked up the Westinghouse iGen 4500.

Hmmm. I hope it works for you. It's not made by Westinghouse, although the company is a part of Westinghouse. Westinghouse does not provide the service or warranty either. It's through Bilious, with mixed reviews.
Like many today, a known American company sells their name (Honeywell fans? Bell and Howell flashlights?) to a company selling products from China. Now Chinese made isn't necessarily a bad thing, (I-phone?) and many good products come from China. I'm just a sceptic.
All the features are ideal!

[Rzrbrn]

Good to know about the leer tonneau cover, may be just the thing for my next truck.

Cannot find the Westinghouse iGen 4500 for sale anywhere at this time.

Lots of new brands of quiet generators on the market these days. The referenced 4500 seems like the perfect size.

Most of these are throw away, meaning there are no repair parts available, but if they last for a few years at least this becomes less of an issue.

[Rorschach]

I have the Truck Covers USA rolltop. Very low profile as well, and no drilling for install.

I'll update should the Westinghouse develop any unforeseen issues.

I personally really think the electric start is worth the small amount of added weight.

[Rzrbrn]

Electric start it not so much a weight issue as a maintenance issue.

I never use the generator in the off season, say 7 or 8 months of non use, other than to start the generator for 15 minutes or so, and let it run out of gas as part of the maintenance regime. Then only rarely use it during camping season.

That is, we typically go RVing (trailering) maybe 3 to 5 months at a time, once a year. During that time we maybe use the generator on 10 to 15 days.

So the battery must be put on a smart trickle charger now and again to keep the charge, and the generator itself started now and then.

The battery is not easy to get to either to take it completely out or to charge. Actually, not quite true, since I permanently attached a charging pigtail to the battery, which hangs outside the generator, and to which the BatteryMinder charge cable connects. But I do forget to start it for long periods of time.

When the AI/Singularity takes over the world I will no doubt be judged wanting regarding my callous abuse of my mechanical systems.

[Rzrbrn]

I checked out the Truck Covers USA rolltop tonneau cover. Looks promising. I may just go this route when I replace my current truck. Thank you for the suggestion.

[capt_ron777]

Hi, just bought a Champion 3100, duel fuel at Costco. $849 and I think not a bad deal, especially with cosco backing. Anyway quick question. I am doing the 5 hr break in and in the manuel it states to use a cooper rod to ground. Is this really necessary for the casual user?

[NoResults]

Capt Ron I just bought the Champion 3400 and am in the process of doing the break in as you are. I did not ground the unit. I did plug in the trailer and started the heat pump for 30 min then the inverter etc to very the load.

Can't see where that is necessary. Dave

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Rzrbrn

I checked out the Truck Covers USA rolltop tonneau cover. Looks promising. I may just go this route when I replace my current truck. Thank you for the suggestion.

Check out the Xtang tri-fold also...I have used on 3 trucks now and love it; easy to fold open when needing to or remove when needing to. Quite handy to leave unlocked while traveling and just flip end panel open to add ice, wood, or something in the back without dropping the tail gate. I also fold open and add Thule racks along with a roof rack when hauling kayaks...just put a cargo stretch net over anything in the back; add a nylon cover if weather looks bad, under the cargo net, but works great. Locked it's pretty water tight also. I think it is easier to operate and stronger than the roll top also. My 2cents...

For generator, I love the Champion Dualfuel...have been using with propane now for 9 months...good investment from my perspective...did not need to get the EasyStart with this unit.

[capt_ron777]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

This is a general description of how I chose to rig up an extension hose for a 3400 Watt Champion dual fuel Inverter generator set’s propane supply setup to allow connections to a low pressure port on an Airstream trailer propane system or a portable propane tank. Please note that I am NOT a plumber, gasfitter, or expert on such matters. This is presented as a ‘what I did’ and should not be construed as a safe or proper way to do it.

If you are not sure, take the parts to a commercial Propane supplier that can properly make up what you need.

There are two connected regulators that are a part of the Champion 3400 Inverter Generator’s propane system. A large one that will be referred to as the “low pressure” regulator and a much smaller one, with a propane tank coupling on it, referred to as the “high pressure” regulator in the discussion that follows. As supplied, they are coupled together with a small brass adapter threaded into the regulator ports. There is a small black hose that goes from the low pressure regulator to the quick-connect on the side of the generator. Do not mess with this part of the system, since it is most likely designed to operate correctly as-is.

Here are the URLs for the parts I bought from Amazon:

1) 3/8” Quick connect set (I needed two sets to accomplish this and have parts for the low pressure port on the AS A-frame I need to add. I think I had one extra male quick connector left over. YMMV
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2) 3/8” by 12 foot long Quick Connect hose assembly with male quick connect compatible with the above quick connect set:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Removing the high pressure regulator from the low pressure regulator requires removing the little bracket (and its bolt) from the low pressure regulator, then using gentle force and two wrenches to get it apart. Put one wrench on the brass adapter, and turn the high pressure regulator. Do NOT unscrew the brass adapter from the low pressure regulator.

Carefully clean out the sealing compound from the high pressure regulator output port without dropping any bits of the sealant into the port. It will go where it can cause the most difficulty later… Leave the brass adapter in the low pressure regulator without turning it. There is a little o-ring under it plus some semi-hard sealant that needs to stay intact.

Other adapters, that I unfortunately did not save data on, came from one of the big box home improvement stores. In general, these were brass adapters and a close nipple, plus one brass 3/8” Flare to ½” male pipe adapter for the hose to female quick connect.

As I recall, the big regulator is where I left the brass adapter that Champion provided, and I used a brass ¼” female pipe to ½ male pipe adapter there to connect to the male quick connector. On the High pressure regulator I used a brass ¼" male pipe to ½" male pipe adapter threaded (very carefully) into the high pressure regulator output port to connect the female quick connect to it. Hopefully I remembered this correctly…

CAUTION: Use the thicker yellow propane/natural gas Teflon tape, NOT the usual thin white stuff for water lines, and check for leaks at all connections with soapy water after pressurizing the lines. Use no more than about 1-2 wraps of tape to make the joints seal properly. Be very careful to prevent scrap threads and bits of the Teflon from getting into the low pressure regulator input—it will surely screw things up.

What this gets you is the high pressure regulator with a female quick connect on it, the hose with male and female connectors on it, and the low pressure regulator with a male quick connect on it. You can then connect the two regulators directly as before, separate them with a 12 foot hose, or use the hose to connect to another 3/8" low pressure quick connect port and GAS shutoff valve added to your Airstream.

Note that you have added quite a bit of leverage to the connections on the regulators, so be gentle and careful using this stuff. Dropping or banging on the connections could pull threads right out of the regulator, especially the high pressure one, and cause a heck of a propane leak and possible fire.

Since my AS is a 2007, I don’t have a low pressure propane port, and will have to add a 3/8” one with a 3/8” manual GAS shutoff ¼ turn valve between the hose from the installed propane regulator inside the tank enclosure and the copper line that goes to the rest of the trailer systems. This connection is on the bottom of the curbside A-frame. I have not gotten that far yet…so I have no clue what kind of adapters I may need to do this.

Thanks for reading a rather long-winded post. Pictures when I can get to the AS, which is in storage at present...

Hi and thank you for that excellant write-up of the line conversion. I just bought the same generator and would like to follow your set up. I get most of it but some of it feels confusing. Is it possible if not too much a bother too take some pics of what you did. I'm a visual learner. Also, how does this set up allow one to still attach to a 20 lb. regular bottle. Don't you loose that big knob that attaches to the bottle in the setup? Thanks so much for any reply. Ron. E-mail: capt_ron777@yahoo.com

[rmkrum]

Ron,

I had some pics, but am at a loss finding them again...I'll see what I can do tonight. I was sure I posted pictures somewhere on the forums...

The connector to the propane tank is an original part of the smaller "high pressure" regulator. It stays on it for this conversion.

The thing I added to the high pressure regulator output port is an adapter and a female quick-connect fitting so the generator can still be used with a stand-alone propane bottle.

The bigger "Low Pressure" regulator gets a male quick connect fitting on its INPUT port so it can be hooked to an extension hose. The extension hose can be connected to the Airstream port, or the original "high pressure" regulator as desired.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by capt_ron777

Hi and thank you for that excellant write-up of the line conversion. I just bought the same generator and would like to follow your set up. I get most of it but some of it feels confusing. Is it possible if not too much a bother too take some pics of what you did. I'm a visual learner. Also, how does this set up allow one to still attach to a 20 lb. regular bottle. Don't you loose that big knob that attaches to the bottle in the setup? Thanks so much for any reply. Ron. E-mail: capt_ron777@yahoo.com

There are a couple threads last year, which include pictures of the set up some of us are using to connect a longer hose either to the QD on the AS or to a portable 20# propane bottle. I carry the 20# and use it most of the time. I did connect up the fittings and longer hose so I can use the AS should I need extra. I put the 20# portable in a square metal-wire milk type box which travels well in my bed and is easy to move around the camp site if I need to relocate the generator due to rain or something else. I had a lot of trial and error setting up my hose...local propane experts were no help...I went to 3 different dealers before getting mine to work properly...