I put no insulation below the wood floor, I installed stainless steel vents in the belly pan for ventilation. Fiberglass itself will not support mold growth, but the problem with fiberglass insulation is that once it gets wet or damp from improper floor ventilation, it takes a long, long time to get it completely dry. While it's drying, it's holding moisture in contact with the wood floor and the frame that WILL be affected by prolonged exposure. Wet, damp fiberglass insulation will prevent those materials from drying out and mold could begin to colonize.
toastie
I agree Toastie, There really is no need for insulation in the floor for a camper that is only used in the summer. No matter what type you use it will trap moisture against the floor and frame and give the mice material for there home.
Your finish work is looking great!
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In post #72, you said you stripped the interior paint using #4 Steel wool with a plastic handle. Where did you get steel wool with a handle? I am gleefully stripping the paint in my 55 Safari. I have not been able to find steel wool with a handle. Lowes has Gator brand synthetic steel wool with a plastic handle. Thank you for this amazing thread!
My hat is off to you. I love the thread, best one I've come across with so many good and detailed pics, really explains the process. I just bought a '54 Cruiser but won't be picking it up until May, 2011. I just finished building an aluminum airplane a few months ago and miss not having a project. The Airstream is a natural progression and will allow me to use all the skill and tricks I picked up building the plane...plus I already have the tools. You can see the trailer by clicking on the link below and going to the Airstream page. As I rehab/remodel this thread will be my guide...it's the best!!
With the questions above regarding paint removing has anyone considered a soda blaster? That's my plan, messy but beats dealing with chemicals and it's very easy and no damage to the aluminum. Harbor Freight sells a cheap one for $100 and one 40 lb bag of the media should do it :Search results for: 'soda blaster'
Check out youtube for how it's done, removes the paint but no damage to the metal:
1955 22' Safari
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Great Lake State
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
Quote:
Originally Posted by NTRPRZ
Toastie,
My hat is off to you. I love the thread, best one I've come across with so many good and detailed pics, really explains the process. I just bought a '54 Cruiser but won't be picking it up until May, 2011. I just finished building an aluminum airplane a few months ago and miss not having a project. The Airstream is a natural progression and will allow me to use all the skill and tricks I picked up building the plane...plus I already have the tools. You can see the trailer by clicking on the link below and going to the Airstream page. As I rehab/remodel this thread will be my guide...it's the best!!
With the questions above regarding paint removing has anyone considered a soda blaster? That's my plan, messy but beats dealing with chemicals and it's very easy and no damage to the aluminum. Harbor Freight sells a cheap one for $100 and one 40 lb bag of the media should do it :Search results for: 'soda blaster'
Check out youtube for how it's done, removes the paint but no damage to the metal:
Don
First, welcome to the forum and thanks very much for your kind words. The soda blaster looks like a money and time saver, will give it a hard look on the next project. The '54 Cruiser looks great and I hope you start a thread to show your progress with plenty of pictures. Your plane looks fantastic, great job.
Harbor Freight sells a cheap one for $100 and one 40 lb bag of the media should do it.
I purchased that unit from Harbor Freight with a 50 lb bag of media. This was not enough to do even one of the endcaps in my trailer. Also the reservoir is pretty small and needs to be refilled constantly.
I purchased that unit from Harbor Freight with a 50 lb bag of media. This was not enough to do even one of the endcaps in my trailer. Also the reservoir is pretty small and needs to be refilled constantly.
Steve
Sorry, I haven't been here long and learned how to use the tools yet.
So did the HFT soda blaster leave you with a good surface that polished well? I was considering that but think I saw a post from someone who used it to get a satin finish and from some reason I thought it was a good start for polishing.
sorry, i haven't been here long and learned how to use the tools yet.
So did the hft soda blaster leave you with a good surface that polished well? I was considering that but think i saw a post from someone who used it to get a satin finish and from some reason i thought it was a good start for polishing.
1955 22' Safari
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Great Lake State
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
Starting to gather parts for my plumbing, it's just to cold outside to work on the trailer. It all starts with the water inlet, going with Perko marine type (Part #499-DPCHR) which will be mounted to belly pan. This will connect to a Watts dual check valve inside, will have the ability to disassemble, even after installed for cleaning or repair. Then connects to a flojet Model # 2840-100 pressure system, integrated 12V dc Pump and 1.1 gallon accumulator tank system. Provides 4.5 GPM open flow, Shut-Off at 40 PSI. (should work fine with the copper joints) 10 Max Amps. Can be mounted vertically or horizontally.
1955 22' Safari
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Worked on the hot water tank today and not wanting to cut a rectangle hole for a LP hot water tank decided to go strictly electrical. In all of our camping we always have at least 30 amp service. Because of space and height restriction decided to go with Suburban sw6de and since the 120V doesn't talk to the 12V and LP components decided to remove them. Will give it a test before permanently installing
1955 22' Safari
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Added a valve to hot water drain, the temperature pressure relief and hot water drain will go through the floor. Also added by-pass and unions to hot water tank, should be no problem for removal. The hot tank will set in a pan with drain.
1955 22' Safari
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Getting ready install Formica and polished aluminum counter edging. The edging is
3/4" x 8' Alum Edging by MD Building Prod #67371, 6063-T5 aluminum alloy.
It's been a while since I've checked your thread...I've missed a LOT of progress! (I'm caught up now)
Looks great, from the photos it looks like your workmanship is top-notch.
Nice job of documentation, this thread has (and will continue) served as a good how-to guide for many. I bookmarked several links just catching up today. Thanks!
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AIR #15800
"Wimpy" 1/2 ton 2002 GMC Sierra 4X4 Z-71 Gasser
2000 Safari SS 25'
1955 22' Safari
Currently Looking...
Great Lake State
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrzowt
It's been a while since I've checked your thread...I've missed a LOT of progress! (I'm caught up now)
Looks great, from the photos it looks like your workmanship is top-notch.
Nice job of documentation, this thread has (and will continue) served as a good how-to guide for many. I bookmarked several links just catching up today. Thanks!
Thanks Fyrzowt...........
Finished the dinette table tonight. Went with Formica coral boomerang matte finish #6941-58 and was very lucky to find it, Formica no longer makes it and the only boomerang that you can get is charcoal.
The boomerang pattern is a great choice. Are you sure though that Formica stopped making it? I thought sure I saw the Formica samples for special orders at Home Depot not too long ago. I did actually buy some charcoal boomerang for my Airstream but I did order it through a counter top and flooring specialty shop and probably paid too much for it if indeed it can be ordered through Home Depot. I have ordered other Formica products through HD and the prices and delivery times were good.
Here are a couple of photos of it on my kitchen and bathroom counter tops. It is really cool stuff and the charcoal color was perfect for what I wanted.
Malcolm
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