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Old 12-29-2007, 05:45 PM   #41
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1968 26' Overlander
Ann Arbor , Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Leak Spots

I have noticed the following from front to back.

Front:
Floor is soft around edges.
Could have come from front window
Fresh water tank coupling
Fresh water tank
Lights in the front
Front windows.
Missing rivets.

Front side;
Two front side windows both curb and street side.
I have to either go to agent Orange and get some window gaskets or some RV store.

Front of door is very soft and I am replacing that plywood.
Front door gaskets are shot!

Looking from the outside there is the vent that was by the sink that comes in from the outer wall...the flashing is buckled in the front form where I can see...dont know about the back yet.

When I took the sink apart I noticed that the vent stack was "disconnected from the line going to the back. This could have let water in from the inside and down onto the floor.

The floor was soft by the water heater...finished taking that out this evening.
Floor in the bathroom was shot...took that out.
This could have come from the window that was missing since the early 80's and with all the rain and snow in Michigan....go figure. It could have also been leaking from the flashing on the roof of the kitchen scoop.

There was a leak also coming from the big vent in the middle front of the trailer...this is cracked and I need to replace that..

Where can I get one of these.

I have half the floor out because I want to get the floor done by mid January. but I know I have to address the leaks now.

Issue: I only have the two inside skins to take off now...the ones that join at the top. Their are two long strips of this clad aluminum. If I take it down...it is hard to get back in place?

If I bring a heater for the inside of the trailer...can I caulk from the inside.
I will only be outside of my overhang 7 times a year...each time being no longer than 2 days. is this something I should worry about as far as leaks.
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Old 12-29-2007, 06:17 PM   #42
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Stop those leaks... they could be anywhere so fix any possible spot and they will eventually go away. I kind of know your end purpose for the trailer and it would suck if you were at an event cooking away and the trailer is dripping water all over your food. You are in the lake, the water is past your waist, and it is time to just relax and get your hair wet... The gaskets you need are all at Vintage Trailer Supply. The orange box does not have the right ones, Steve does. There is guy on the West Coast that might also have them. I just always use Vintage Trailer Supply. He has that fancy curved glass you need too.
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Old 12-30-2007, 08:14 AM   #43
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1968 26' Overlander
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End caps

This means that I should take the end caps off the trailer...correct.
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Old 12-30-2007, 09:33 AM   #44
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Leaks?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
This means that I should take the end caps off the trailer...correct.
Before pulling the end caps.....have you tried sealing from the outside?

R
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Old 12-30-2007, 01:02 PM   #45
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I have not tried to seal from the outside. I thought it was too cold to do so. This is why I thought sealing from the inside with a kerosene heater would be better..with the heat inside an all...but then again...the cold form the ouside may keep the skin cold while trying to seal the inside.
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Old 12-30-2007, 01:32 PM   #46
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Some thoughts about the caulking, etc.

Did I understand you to say that your AS is under cover now? When are you shooting for having it ready to roll? Will there be warmer weather available to you before that time? Maybe a combination of repairing what needs to be repaired, doing some caulking from the inside and finishing up on the outside when the weather gets warmer would work. Also - if you are under cover is that a chance that you could hang plastic curtains around the unit and heat things up outside so you could caulk from the outside?

Regarding re-installing the ceiling panels you either need to think in terms of getting helpers to hold things in place while you rivit things or you need to have some sort of supports that will hold the skin. I don't know if your skins are the same arrangement as mine but if they are the tips I posted in the following thread may help.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...ins-30665.html

Malcolm
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Old 12-30-2007, 04:53 PM   #47
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1968 26' Overlander
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malconium said: "Did I understand you to say that your AS is under cover now?"

Response
Yes...it is under an overhang out of the elements. I am in Michigan so right now it is snow and rain season so I wanted not to have that issue of it leaking while I am working on it.

Malconium said: "When are you shooting for having it ready to roll?"

Response
I am shooting at opening up for business at the end of March beginning of April...if all goes well.

Malconium sez:
"Will there be warmer weather available to you before that time?"

Response....Nope!

Malconim sez:
"Maybe a combination of repairing what needs to be repaired, doing some caulking from the inside and finishing up on the outside when the weather gets warmer would work. Also - if you are under cover is that a chance that you could hang plastic curtains around the unit and heat things up outside so you could caulk from the outside?"

Response:
I am doing the major repairs now. I cant hang up curtains because it is a place of business.

I will use the tips you gave me on hanging the panels as well as getting some extra hands that I have available.
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Old 12-30-2007, 05:02 PM   #48
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Floor progress

I took out the front section of the floor today...it took about three hrs. One hr of work and the rest jibber jabber with a buddy I had helping. I seem to get more work done when I am by myself .

I did notice that when I took the bottom panels off in the front of the trailer. I removed the insulation and there were signs of where the water was comming from.

I had a 500 watt light on the inside of the trailer but when I went outside...I was able to see the light comming from places that there should not be light.

The antena hook up, the fresh water outlet "around it where the caulking was, a missing rivet as well as some other places. I really dont want to take the caps off but I may not have a choice...the leak tracks were comming from up under the cap.

I also have another question. I have a tandam axle trailer.

Does anyone know what the weight limit is for putting equipment at the back of the trailer?

Are tandams more forgiving as far as weight distribution than single axles?
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Old 12-31-2007, 11:38 AM   #49
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End caps not too hard to deal with...

I don't know how your end caps may differ from the ones in my 1973 unit but mine were not really hard to deal with getting out or putting back in. They are not very heavy. As I recall I removed them by myself and had just one helper when I put them back in. Once you get a few rivits in place you are home free with putting them back in. Also, I did notice leaks along some of the seams in the upper rear panels that I would not have been able to see without taking the end caps out.

Malcolm
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Old 01-01-2008, 08:29 AM   #50
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1968 26' Overlander
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Happy New Year everyone!

Well...I think we got about 6 inches of the white stuff.
This is will be the place of business. I also have it parked here to work on it...so I am doing the work with eyes looking on. Everyone is asking me when I am going to be open...I tell them the plan is for the beginning of April...so...I have to get to work.
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Old 01-01-2008, 10:42 AM   #51
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1963 19' Globetrotter
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Hey!!! nice to see some pictures.

Based on the fact that the trailer will be sheltered and you are on a tight schedule, forget about the leaks for now. This is no weather to be trying to climb around on top of the trailer and sealing from the inside is only temporary. For now, repair any obvious leaks that you can get access to and save the others for when the weather gets nice. You can work on the leaks "after hours" ...you know... by moon light. :-)

Just concentrate on getting that floor done. Until that is done you will have to wait on getting going on seting up your equipment.

Keep at it!
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Old 01-04-2008, 02:21 PM   #52
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1968 26' Overlander
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Interior Aluminum skin

Does anyone know what the gauge thickness is for the interior aluminum skin.

Also...Can the vinyl clad aluminum be painted.

Thanks
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Old 01-04-2008, 04:05 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
Does anyone know what the gauge thickness is for the interior aluminum skin.

Also...Can the vinyl clad aluminum be painted.

Thanks
It's .032 you can find it at AirParts Inc.

Yes, the vinyl can be painted... mine is.
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Old 01-04-2008, 07:22 PM   #54
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I have also painted mine. I cleaned the surface thoroughly - actually I did that when the skins were out. I then started with a shelac based primer - I used BIN but Kilz is also a good choice. Finished up with a couple of coats of a high quality interior satin house paint. The only thing I might have done differently was to use a glossier finish coat. It looks fine with the satin but maybe it would look better with glossy.

Depending on wall condition you might also be able to get away with a thorough cleaning and a couple coats of Fantastic clear floor coating. I have read that some people in the forums have had good luck with a bleach mix to whiten the walls.

Malcolm
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Old 01-04-2008, 07:41 PM   #55
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Skins Game

While the interior skins are out I was thinking about cleaning and painting them. I was going to strip them but it seem like more work than it is worth.

I looked in Home Depot for the Jasco premium paint and epoxy stripper/remover but they only had the glue remover.

I will need to be food grade...so the walls would have to be easily cleanable.
Excuse my spelling 151 will do that to you.

Also...tonight I have made the template for the back area floor.
Question: from what I can see of the 68 overlander...the back shape should be the same as the front correct?...I took the front board out as well.

A few things are freaking me out.

1. in the back area the u chanel is not directly over the outrigger....
Can I use one of the fabric rachet clamps to pull it back in over the outrigger?

2. When I measured the gap between the frame and the u chanel...it is less than 3/4 inch. The boards that I took out are 3/4 inch.

3. I really dont want to drop the belly that belly pan...all of thoes rivets being drilled out . Then again...if I use the 3 inch strip method all around the edges that seem like it is going to be a big pain in the tail feathers to get the bolt in around the front and back areas.

I am afraid that the whole shell will just fall off the trailer itself.

Even if I took out the center of the belly pan which leaves about a foot on each side...it will be a bear to get to the edge of the u chanel
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Old 01-04-2008, 08:39 PM   #56
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I can't say for sure, but I almost sure the front end and the back end are not the same floor profile.

You can push and pull the shell as needed to get it into the right place when you bolt it down. Just take some measurements and make sure it is equally space relative to the frame rails.

I would pull at least the center belly pan pieces. You will not need to have those back in to open the cafe. That can be another project for those moonlit summer nights. It will be much easier to get the new floor in with the belly pan out.

How much of the floor do you have out? I would suggest not removing ALL the floor at the same time.

Sounds like you are moving along... it's normal for things to feel as though they are a bit scary. Just keep moving an soon enough you will be on the track and feeling better.
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Old 01-05-2008, 05:32 AM   #57
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I do not see how it will possible to bolt the new floor down with out removing the belly pan. You will have to reach blindly 4' to put a nut on the elevator bolt, and then tighten it down... good luck with that. A very easy way to drop the pan is to cut the rivets. I used a stiff utility knife. After about 10 of them, you will be cutting them in one sharp whack and it will go very quickly. Drop the pan... yes more work, but easier for you in the long run.
On my blog you will see some paint products made by PPG that
I used for the bathroom. The primer was very impressive in how it went on and then how it could be sanded very smooth. I do not know what the local laws are about wall surfaces in a kitchen, but here they have rules about it. I did a bar for a restaurant a few years back, and the inspectors made the restaurant cover some of the walls in a plastic panel that had a texture to it. I am not sure what it was called, but bacteria cannot grow on it. You might have an issue with aluminum being porous. I think this is why hot dog carts are made out of stainless steel. I would suggest you contact the health inspector before you go and paint too much aluminum so that you do not go too far for nothing. It might be easier to make new panels than spend hours stripping them. I highly recommend that you make friends with your health inspector for he is going to give the yes or no to your business.
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Old 01-05-2008, 05:42 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byamcaravanner
I can't say for sure, but I almost sure the front end and the back end are not the same floor profile.

You can push and pull the shell as needed to get it into the right place when you bolt it down. Just take some measurements and make sure it is equally space relative to the frame rails.

I would pull at least the center belly pan pieces. You will not need to have those back in to open the cafe. That can be another project for those moonlit summer nights. It will be much easier to get the new floor in with the belly pan out.

How much of the floor do you have out? I would suggest not removing ALL the floor at the same time.

Sounds like you are moving along... it's normal for things to feel as though they are a bit scary. Just keep moving an soon enough you will be on the track and feeling better.
Well its about 7:36 in the am...going to HD and going to pull the rest of the belly pan...not looking forward to this because of the cold...but its gotta be done. Sugar, Honey, Ice, Tea!!!


I have the first two sections out of the back and the first section out of the front of the trailer. I figured that I may want to put some of thoes back in before I take anything else out.
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Old 01-05-2008, 11:11 AM   #59
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Belly Pan

Well...I didn't want to do it...I gave myself 1001 reasons not to...but thanks to the prodding...I wont say by whome... I will just look at their name and whistel ...L@@king at (byamcaravanner ) . I was able to get this done today.

It was not as bad as I thought it would be after I really looked at it. I just need to take the street side out now. had to stop...the boss (wife) needed the car. The outside of the trailer does not look nice...but as Byamcaravanner said...I can button it back up when the floor is in. I did get some plywood today.

Now for another question. When I took the front and back floor out I was unable to do it with alot of grace...i.e..the pieces are FUBAR! So..How do I get an accurate shape to cut the new floor?

Also..once I have the floor shape and ready to install it...is it better to cut the sheets in half to get the floor back in place then bolt it down through the u-chanel or try and leave it in one piece.
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Old 01-05-2008, 04:17 PM   #60
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New subfloor protection

Would it be a good idea to protect the new floor with that west system epoxy over the entire floor?

By the front door that is not covered by aluminum skin...there are two spots by the steps that are rusted through...How is this repaired.
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