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Old 01-05-2008, 05:20 PM   #61
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sounds like you are getting the opportunity to learn to weld next.
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Old 01-05-2008, 06:10 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
sounds like you are getting the opportunity to learn to weld next.
I purchased a new Hobart Mig with gas this spring and have taught myself to weld already. It can weld Aluminum (love welding aluminum) Stainless and carbon steel up toto 1/4 inch steel

I just dont know if this is part of the swing down steps or how to repair it...got a picture of my baby...wanna see it

It is the Hobart 140
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Old 01-06-2008, 04:02 AM   #63
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I looked into buy a welder too. The Hobart 140 was highly recommended to me. I also looked at the Lincoln version. I ended up borrowing one to use instead of spending the money. There are so many things needed, I just could not justify it at this point.
Taking down the belly pan sure does give you a clear shot of what your up against. It will definitely make it easier to put it back together later. Any big surprises? Can you add some pictures of your other baby?
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Old 01-06-2008, 09:08 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
I just dont know if this is part of the swing down steps or how to repair it...
Can you post a picture of what needs to be repaired?

Mine needs some work too. The "slide" slot is enlarged at the notch tha seats the pin when the steps are open. The problem is only on one side so the step drops about an 1/8 on one side when you step on it. I'd just like to firm it up a bit. I'll be addressing that in phase two of my floor replacement.

Your welder will be the perfect tool for working with the Airstream frame.
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Old 01-06-2008, 10:01 AM   #65
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Feeling of acomplishment

The step is in great shape...not rusted at all. If it can hold 250lbs with me moving up and down on it...it is solid. It is just on the left and right hand side of the step. It looks like small pieces of sheet metal that I will need to weld over what is there.

I really feel like I have acomplished alot this weekend. The entire belly pan is out. I dont think I will need to take of the bananna strips off the front. They dont have many dings in them.

I do have to take off the back corner pieces in that somewhat triangled area. I also have to remove the streetside rear band to get at the blind rivets to drop that little section. I am just worried that it is going to be a bear getting it back in.

Thanks again to everyone and I will keep updating the progress.


P.S. If I use that West epoxy over all the plywood...that should make it pretty water proof correct.

What I wanted to do is to fit the pieces...take them out...put the epoxy on, let it cure then put the pices back. This way the floor is protected on all sides. I only want to do this once so I want to do a good job on it.

I have not taken all the floor out, I want to put some floor back in before I do that...with that said...should I try to keep the back area in one piece or cut it down the middle, and clam shell it in?
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Old 01-06-2008, 10:07 AM   #66
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I would save the epoxy money and buy better plywood. If you buy marine grade it will set you back alot.
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Old 01-06-2008, 10:09 AM   #67
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Aluminum chanel.

Can aluminum rib sections be made.

I want to put some extra supports in the rib section. but I dont know what gauge the ribs are...How can I find this out? I have a metals merchant down the block from where I am so I am pretty sure I can find what I need there.

What I was thinking about was doing the following.

getting the shape of the aluminum rib via story boad or scribing on some plywood to transfer the shape onto the plywood.

Then cutting a jig out of the plywood so that the jig is about 1.5 inches thick...then using clamps to clamp the aluminum to the jig to get the bend I need...does anyone think this would work?
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Old 01-06-2008, 11:03 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
...should I try to keep the back area in one piece or cut it down the middle, and clam shell it in?
Since you have not removed the banana wraps, I would split it down the middle and do the clam shell.

I emailed a friend of mine that I think may have some extra ribs. His house is between yours and mine, so If he has some, I could bring them along when I come for the bath parts. Keep your fingers crossed.

As far as the step, the pieces you are talking about are rolled light gauge steel that are painted silver to match the aluminum. If you can get a couple of pieces of galvanized 20ga sheet you could probably bend them with a rubber mallet around something cylindical... like a pipe bollard (those posts in a parking lot that stop cars from hitting the building)
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Old 01-06-2008, 11:48 AM   #69
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Crazy request.

I am looking to have something like this made because I dont know how to do it myself. Unless I find something like an old clock casing.

Does anyone know how this would be done.?

Pardon my photoshop skills. I saw this on a picture on the side of an Airstream and thought that would be a good idea.

I could back light it myself and seal it so no water gets in.

Logo created by yours truly...I have a bunch of old fonts desktop publishing.
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:00 PM   #70
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The Logo looks great... about what diameter are you looking for? An aluminum pie plate or a hub cap comes to mind???

I sent you an email, Tedd says he has the extra ribs you are looking for. I'll plan on bringing them along. (thanks! Tedd!)

Sounds like we'll all have to meet for a Number 9 hamburger some time down the road... on me.
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:33 PM   #71
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I think a sign company could do that pretty easy
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Old 01-06-2008, 01:22 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
Can aluminum rib sections be made.

I want to put some extra supports in the rib section. but I dont know what gauge the ribs are...How can I find this out? I have a metals merchant down the block from where I am so I am pretty sure I can find what I need there.

What I was thinking about was doing the following.

getting the shape of the aluminum rib via story boad or scribing on some plywood to transfer the shape onto the plywood.

Then cutting a jig out of the plywood so that the jig is about 1.5 inches thick...then using clamps to clamp the aluminum to the jig to get the bend I need...does anyone think this would work?
Yes they can be made but I'm curious as to why. The rib sections in my GT are .063 thick. The method you described will work, but only annealed or soft aluminum will work, so then you need to heat-treat the aluminum to gain any structural strength. Another method would be to use a shrinker and stretcher using .063 6061-T6 extruded aluminum angles and then riveting them together. Here is a link to a shrinker and stretcher
Brown Tool - Cart: 963298
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Old 01-06-2008, 01:45 PM   #73
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why do you need more ribs? They were not cut short in the back if that is what you are thinking. The entire trailer supports it's self. It is engineered to work as one whole unit the frame, the floor, and the shell all support each other.It is kind of like a chain... only as strong as it's weakest link. Do you need new ribs to cut an opening for food service? I think serving out the rear would be cool... will you serve beer too? I know Ann Arbor has some very liberal laws concerning intoxicants.
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Old 01-06-2008, 02:22 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
why do you need more ribs? ... Do you need new ribs to cut an opening for food service? I think serving out the rear would be cool... will you serve beer too? I know Ann Arbor has some very liberal laws concerning intoxicants.
I need more ribs for support. I am going to cut some of the ribs to make a bigger service window and flip up service door. I have an aircraft guy here in Ann Arbor that explained a few ways how I can do this.

The ribs that I cut I must make a header...have not decided on what to make it out of yet...the extra ribs will act as jack studs. Then link them all toghether so that it becomes one unit again.

I either want to make a window that is curved like the body or like this...

With making a square window...it would be easier to install windows that can be found. The only issue I can see with this is making an eyebrow, rivet and seal it to cover the top lip so that wetness will not get under the skin. Then skinning the door with 2024t3 to make the door blend in. I am trying to keep the shape as close to the original as possible...but that may not be possible.
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Old 01-06-2008, 02:40 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byamcaravanner
The Logo looks great... about what diameter are you looking for? An aluminum pie plate or a hub cap comes to mind???
I would say 24inches in diameter
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Old 01-06-2008, 03:36 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
The only issue I can see with this is making an eyebrow, rivet and seal it to cover the top lip so that wetness will not get under the skin.
For a ready made eyebrow go HERE and type "drip cap" into the search box at the top of the page. Many, many sizes to choose from.

Your trailer is going to look cool!
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Old 01-06-2008, 03:38 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
I would say 24inches in diameter
That's gotta be one big pie plate! LOL! I'll have to think on some alternatives.
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Old 01-07-2008, 08:09 PM   #78
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Now for another question. When I took the front and back floor out I was unable to do it with alot of grace...i.e..the pieces are FUBAR! So..How do I get an accurate shape to cut the new floor?

Also..once I have the floor shape and ready to install it...is it better to cut the sheets in half to get the floor back in place then bolt it down through the u-chanel or try and leave it in one piece.
For getting the shape of the end floor panels right I made a template out of poster board that fit the end of the inside of the body. Just trim it until it fits right. I would suggest that you check to make sure the body is not shifted out of line with the frame before you make your pattern. I only made half a pattern at each end too by the way. I carefully marked where the centerline of the body/frame was and made a pattern for one half assuming that the curve was symetrical about the centerline. I then put the pattern down on my plywood and enlarged it by ~1-1/2". You can check the measurement increase that you need by sliding a scrap of plywood under the body edge and marking it. An easy way to enlarge the pattern on the plywood is to cut a small piece of wood or cardboard to the exatra amount and slide it along the pattern with a pencil or marking pen.

Regarding slicing the end panels in half you don't actually have to as long as the next sheet in line is out of the way. You will find that you can lay the full panel down a bit on the diagonal and rotate it into place just fine.

Regarding your header requirements at the opening it seems to me that you could just use aluminum angle or u-channel of appropriate size. Presumably you have some supplier in your area where you can get aluminum. Home Depot even carries some sizes and shapes.

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Old 01-08-2008, 05:42 AM   #79
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just a slight word of caution... when I released the shell in the rear, it actually moved out further to the rear than it originally was. In this photo
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you can see the bolt hole in the frame and the hole in the "C" (mine is a "J" not a "C") channel are about 1.5" away from each other. I am not too worried about getting it back, because I had most of the curve left on the street side floor and will be making new channel. Just a thing to take into account when making your template.
A trick I use to make templates for counter tops is to use strips of 5 mm luan about 24" long. I scribe them into the curve and hot melt glue them together as I go around the curve. The shorter length is easy to work with. You might need to go wider in the curve to get more radius. I use a cheap compass to follow the curve, cut close to the line with a jig saw, and then use a belt sander to sand up to the line. I use to use cardboard, but found it is too flimsy and if the humidity is high it changes size. The luan is cheap and stays very rigid. By the time you get your templates done you will be good at it. I have used this method to install some very complex countertops and have had great success. Just make sure you are making a template to the right curve.
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Old 01-08-2008, 07:11 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
I either want to make a window that is curved like the body or like this...

With making a square window...it would be easier to install windows that can be found. The only issue I can see with this is making an eyebrow, rivet and seal it to cover the top lip so that wetness will not get under the skin. Then skinning the door with 2024t3 to make the door blend in. I am trying to keep the shape as close to the original as possible...but that may not be possible.
good luck on the rib-making. will you also be doing some BBQ ribs when finished? and where's that "Cajun Deli" located? I would love to check this out one day. not to nitpick, but down here we'd say "La Boucherie" instead off "Le", even though Le might actually be correct for all I know! sure is a heckuva nice trailer...

will you be opening a Cajun deli of your own? need any guest chefs?

best,
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