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bkahler · 11-08-2015, 05:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

Link to the classicparts

H/L Body Mntg Ring-R/L-DHL-Classic Chevy Truck Parts

Peter, thanks for the link.

I hadn't run across the Classic Parts site before. Looks like there might be some parts suitable for a 74 Argosy

Brad

Gregsch · 11-08-2015, 05:47 PM

The turn signals are on the back burner now. I am coming to the conclusion that getting everything to work at the same time is a physical impossibility. Did someone around here say it's never done!
Fixed the broken rivets above the entry door today. Tried to replace the buck rivets with more buck rivets but, that was not going to happen. I could get the inner wall panel loose enough to get to the top of the frame, but I could not get enough room to get a bucking bar into position. I could however get my fingers into position to put a nut and washer on a screw. So that's what I did. It is not visible from the ground, should be plenty strong.
Took a few pictures of the semi-complete exterior.

PeterH-350LE · 11-08-2015, 07:04 PM

clap, clap !!

mayco · 11-09-2015, 04:18 AM

Gregsch, just curious here, what team? I see the colors youve chosen for your exterior and have been curious what team they are associated with? Doesnt look like Buckeyes, maybe the Flyers? In the pics, your center stripe looks orange and I see youve left the bottom trim Excella blue.

The rig looks absolutely fantastic, youre going to attract quite a crowd at a tailgate thats for sure. Really nice work inside and out.

bkahler · 11-09-2015, 12:34 PM

If I was a betting man and since Greg lives in Ohio I'd put my money on either the Browns or the Bengals

However, I NEVER bet as I'm almost always wrong

Brad

mayco · 11-09-2015, 01:55 PM

Ahhhhhhhh yes, for some reason when I thnk tailgate I think ncaa

bkahler · 11-09-2015, 02:26 PM

HA! I didn't think of the ncaa

Gregsch · 11-09-2015, 03:56 PM

Bowling Green Falcons

bkahler · 11-09-2015, 04:04 PM

Well, at least I had the Ohio part right

gaiaenviro · 11-11-2015, 06:54 PM

Small world! I grew up in Bowling Green!

-Bill
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

Gregsch · 11-15-2015, 06:58 PM

Fixed the turn signal today. Fuse was blown, not sure what caused that. Hopefully it was a coincidence. Time will tell. Hardest part was finding accurate info on which fuse to check. Then gain access to the fuses way in the back.

Gregsch · 12-27-2015, 06:28 PM

Finally got the windshield sealed up! After trying to find someone locally to do the job to no avail, I just bought the materials and did it my self. I have had it out in the rain several times since and it seems to be 100% watertight.
The bad news is the driver and passenger windows are leaking and I cannot figure out why. I had re-installed the headliner so,,,, back out it came and the search continues, It is seeping in between the window frame and the structural member that runs above the windows from the driver side around the windshield and above the passenger window. I have re-caulked the windows with Trempro 635 and they look good from the out side. I wonder if the rivets could be leaking. I think my next move is to seal each rivet across the top of the windows.

bkahler · 12-27-2015, 06:47 PM

Greg, I'll guarantee you rivets can indeed leak especially if they are Olympic rivets.

I had a pesky leak around my driver window and since I had the inner skin removed I sat inside while it was raining and saw the water dripping off the rivets. They were Olympic rivets used on the window.

streamquest · 12-27-2015, 11:49 PM

It is a MUST to apply a sealant to each Olympic rivet. It makes for a bit of a mess when "popping" the rivet, but it sure beats a leak.

bkahler · 12-28-2015, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by streamquest

It is a MUST to apply a sealant to each Olympic rivet. It makes for a bit of a mess when "popping" the rivet, but it sure beats a leak.

I wish someone had told the PO of my Argosy, it's covered in Olympic rivets and none have sealant

Gregsch · 01-17-2016, 05:26 PM

I refuse to continue with any interior work until I solve the problems with the leaks. All the leaks I have now are leaking in places where the floor was rotted out when I started this mess. So they have likely been leaking for years.

I set up a simple test, it worked surprisingly well. (although the folks at Miejers looked at me a little funny when I purchased a lawn sprinkler in January)
I used some of the extra vinyl tape stripes I had left over to cover the two seams across the top of the cabin area. Sure enough that stopped 90% of the leaks. There is nothing on the outside that would appear to be a leak but, that is apparently most of my problem.
When looking on the inside I see one continuous piece of aluminum from the windshield to the point where the curved panels meet the straight panels. On the outside there is a seam with a lap joint right down the middle. For some reason they appear to have installed one layer of aluminum directly over another. The rivets seem to be leaking and water gets between the two layers and finds its way down to the top of the window frames.
It looks like they had the panel down the center mounted with rivets , then drilled them back out moved the panel 3/4" and riveted it back leaving all the holes exposed on the inside. Could all this be caused by a repair by a previous owner?
I would appreciate any suggestions.

PeterH-350LE · 01-17-2016, 05:54 PM

Both buck rivets and olympic rivets will leak if they were installed without vulkem. People will avoid Vulkem like the pest, because its so much harder and messy to work with.
The back part of your cap panel looks like a repair job for reasons unknown. I am sure you find out why, if you would decide to remove that panel to permanently fix your problem. What surprises me is that you dont see any damage from the inside when looking up or do you?
Does it look like the rivets on the top of your side windows where replaced?
1979 was the first year they used the 1 piece cap panel, may be they had some fitting issues on the first run.
Have you considered removing it and resealing it ?
Edit:
The more I think about it, my 79 28' had a 2 part front cap too
I always wondered if it was a repair job

Gregsch · 01-17-2016, 06:22 PM

Peter
The panel
would call the drivers ide fender is full of Olympic rivets. Appears to be well done but must have been replaced at some point. Both the driver and passenger windows are extremely difficult to close. The latch does not seem to be in the proper position to latch closed. The latch on the drivers window is so close to the fixed window that it has scratched the glass.
I really don't want to take the roof apart but, it may come to that.

PeterH-350LE · 01-17-2016, 06:28 PM

my 345 had a solid panel meeting the roof panel
my current 310 has a solid panel which is about 3/4" short of meeting the roof panel and they put a narrow panel under it.
I think we see a pattern here: The first solid aluminum cap panels they made were too short.
look at fred archive 7th picture down
http://www.viewrvs.com/motorhome/air.../1979_24_c.php

PeterH-350LE · 01-17-2016, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregsch

Peter
The panel
would call the drivers ide fender is full of Olympic rivets. Appears to be well done but must have been replaced at some point. Both the driver and passenger windows are extremely difficult to close. The latch does not seem to be in the proper position to latch closed. The latch on the drivers window is so close to the fixed window that it has scratched the glass.
I really don't want to take the roof apart but, it may come to that.

I never use the schlaegel type window seals, Airstream dealers want to sell you. They make windows operate even more poorly and they rust on the inside.
As I have stated many times before, use this to make them work easier:
AS1268 Flexible Flocked Lining All-Rubber | Hi-Tech Glazing Supplies