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Gregsch · 06-29-2014, 01:35 PM

Okay, not as much progress as I had hoped for but, there were some delays (life happens). I had to really work at it to find someone to sell me Coosa Blueboard 26. It is an industrial product that is used in the boat building industry. It appears it would much easier to find on the coast where they actually build boats. I finally found Composites One and they did a great job of getting me the info I needed and getting it shipped to me. Since I decided to spend the extra money to use the Coosa I decided to go back and demo more of the plywood out. I finally got to the point where all the plywood was gone from the front of the MH and back 12'. I cleaned up all the steel frame and treated it with POR-15 this weekend. I will start putting it back together this week.
first pic shows plywood removed by cutting ot out as close to the wall as I could get with a skilsaw.
Second pic shows cutting the remaining wood as close as possible with the sawzall.
third pic shows some of the tools I used.
fourth pic shows how I pried the aluminum channel back into shape where the screws had distorted it.
fifth pic shows how I cut the remaining plwood it the channel to get the pieces out.
sixth pic is a tool I made to reshape the channel so it was consistently 5'8" clear.
seventh pic shows the tool in action along with the 5/8" gauge block I made out of the plywood I was removing. Make sure the gauge block will slide through the channel through it's entire length, otherwise it will be extremely difficult to get the new material back in.
One last comment, I found that a 1/2" straight router bit chucked up in a battery drill works really well to get the last little bit of the wood out of the channel after you have gotten all you can with the sawzall and the prybar and chisel. I likely have more than 40 hours in the floor repair so far.

Gregsch · 07-01-2014, 07:43 PM

Got the Por-15 finished this weekend. This stuff is supposed to be the best but, it is difficult to apply in this circumstance. They call for rinsing the metal after each proceedure. That is not real easy to do when working inside a MH. If you could hose it down with a garden hose it would be a piece of cake. I did the best I could with a spray bottle and a wet rag. In any event it's done!!! Next step install Coosa Bluewater 26. Finally starting to move forward,seems like I have been taking 5 steps backward for every one step forward.

Gregsch · 07-07-2014, 06:30 PM

got he coosa board installed over the holiday weekend. I was reluctant to go this route but after working with this material I am convinced I did the right thing. It was $1000 I did not have in the budget. This material is really easy to work with, actually easier than plywood, it is definitely a fiberglass product. The dust is very itchy. I used 3/4" coosa and all I had to do was trim it down to 5/8" where it goes into the perimeter channel. I have read several places on the forum that it is very difficult to slip the plywood into the perimeter channel but, this stuff was a snap to slip into the channel. I do have a slight advantage over the the average airstreamer, As a carpenter I have been installing plywood subfloors for 35 years.

Isuzusweet · 07-08-2014, 09:43 PM

I'm glad if my post on Coosa board made you consider it as a replacement for your sub-floor. As a cabinetmaker myself I too found it far easier to work with than plywood.
I did use the Bluewater 20 instead of 26 as I was told that the spans between the gridwork below the floor, and the engineered flooring I was putting in above would easily support the less dense 20.
It's certainly a job I wouldn't want to do again and with the Coosa we have no worries, plus it should increase the resale if a FO can see for themselves the level of professionalism, and quality of products that we put into the renovation.

Good work
Cheers
Tony

Gregsch · 07-09-2014, 01:59 PM

Thanks, Tony
When you replaced your floor did you by chance replace the carpet on the doghouse? I am trying to remove the stereo and the console so I can replace the carpet and can not figure out how they put it together. So for I have removed about 200 tiny staples that hold the carpet to the doghouse but, the console is still quite secure.

Gregsch · 07-20-2014, 07:36 PM

Finally figured out how to remove the conso;e on the doghouse. It was held in place by about a thousand tiny staples. I don't understand what AS was thinkng when they did it this way. I don't see any way to remove the stereo without removing all the carpet. It you wanted to repair or replace the stereo you were in for a major project. They fuse panel has alot of corrosion on the contacts, I will look into replacing it.

Vycan · 07-23-2014, 07:15 AM

you could try using rust removing gel products from auto parts stores, then clean it and use silicone grease (like the stuff you use on spark plugs to keep out moisture). It looks like everything is there, just needs maintenance.

wxbuoy · 07-24-2014, 06:13 PM

Contact cleaner and then a light coating if dielectric grease

Vycan · 07-24-2014, 07:27 PM

wxbouy is correct... dielectric grease is what you want to use, not silicone grease.

Gregsch · 08-17-2014, 06:35 PM

Coleman Mach 8 arrived this week. Man that fan is loud! Maybe not so loud as in deciples, but a very intense sound. Sounds like it is spinning 9000 rpm. Anxious to see how it sounds when installed.

Repaired the battery box with a little ABS plumbing pipe and some MEK. Thanks for the tips Keyair!!!

Making a waterproof box to contain the new fuse panel out of some scrap Coosa 26. Not sure how it is going to work out. Just using fiberglass resin to adhere it.

My son called this week to tell me he was moved from the 3rd squad to the 2nd squad! Great news, he was a red shirt last year. Are you coming to my first game? he asks. Uh, Uh sure son I'll be there. I've got less than 2 weeks, its coming together but not nearly fast enough.

Vycan · 08-20-2014, 12:41 PM

really enjoy seeing the progress, good work.

Gregsch · 08-28-2014, 08:12 PM

Well, It's official I am not ready for the first game. The project got too involved and a very busy work schedule consumed most of my time. Fortunately Tom Bodet left the light on for us and we will get to see the game.

I picked up the condensate pump for the Mach 8 this week. There were no instructions. I think I see how the pump mounts but I need some help with the wiring and connecting the hose.

wxbuoy · 08-29-2014, 06:42 AM

Tom's a great guy and has saved my butt during our extended rehab project!

Gregsch · 04-22-2015, 07:40 PM

This project has been on the back burner for a while now. Spent all last season tailgating from Wisconsin to Alabama out of the trunk of the car. Time to get this project completed and do some serious tailgating.
Finished up the Coosa Board riser with the new fuse panel. Not sure just how strong it would be just gluing it together, so I wrapped the back side with a layer of fiberglass cloth and resin. Bought a crimper to crimp the end of the 4ga wire, it makes quick work of it.
Have the solar charge controller, Boondocker, and new batteries sitting on the floor in the shop. Lets Rock!

Gregsch · 05-02-2015, 12:19 PM

In order to make space for larger batteries I am switching the location of the coach and engine start batteries. I am using two marine deep cycle batteries for now. I can just squeeze them in the lower compartment but, there was no room to make the connections. I made these copper adapters so that I can make the connections without arcing the top of the box. If that does not prove to be enough capacity I can cut the bottom of the compartment out and fabricate a drawer like the ones used in newer motorhomes.
Just about finished with the wiring. Need to mount the Boondoker and the SC 2030 solar controller.
Looks like I need to pull the trigger on some solar panels next. I am open to suggestions. I like the appearance of the flat panels that glue right on the skin but, they don't really have a proven track record.

Gregsch · 05-03-2015, 06:11 AM

Whoops, pics did not load. Lets try again.

wxbuoy · 05-03-2015, 01:11 PM

Very nice work! Is that a trimetric shunt on the right side?

Gregsch · 05-04-2015, 02:32 PM

Yes, I bought it all from Best Converter.. Fuse box , 2030 Moniter, 2030 Solar controller, 75 amp Boondocker. I need a couple solar panels now. What will work best? Hmmmm

wxbuoy · 05-05-2015, 02:26 PM

You are looking the same way We are. We want to go with flexible panels for look but reviews are not great

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Gregsch · 05-10-2015, 11:54 AM

Looked at every hardware store in town for suitable grommets to run wires through the aluminum framing. Could not find anything I liked. I came up with this idea. I used 1/2" pvc water pipe and couplings. Cut the pipe an inch longer than the framing member and glue a coupling on both sides.
Got the wiring done on the drivers side, fabricated a piece of aluminum to seal the end to the sidewall, Counterflashed that with a larger piece, finally I will install the inner fender. Lets hope that keeps it dry.