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Old 05-04-2014, 06:24 PM   #1
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Count down to kick-off

So, I am making plans to do some tailgating this fall. The first game is scheduled for August 29th. I have had this MH for two years and the progress of the restoration has been very slow. It's time to get serious. I have the chassis pretty well squared away and it drives great! Next step; replace the univolt. The manual says remove the box that covers the univolt and remove the univolt. Well, I can't access the screws to the box without removing the vinyl wall panel. Hmmm, can't remove the wall panel without removing the credenza. Oh my! look whats under the credenza! Is that the remains of plywood? I was hoping to speed this project up, not slow it down.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:24 PM   #2
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Don't feel bad Gregsch, we've all grown accustomed to the same exact thing. Went to work on plumbing of shower, ended up having to purchase all new shower water controls, then pulled front panel off at base of shower, only to 'discover' the particle board is disentegrating under shower pan.

It's almost as if what I used to tell my ex-wife...."If it's not one thing, it's your Mother!"

Good Luck, Derek
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:41 PM   #3
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Okay, it seems that I am going to have to address the roof leaks. I removed the inner end cap to see if I can find out where it is leaking. Wow! it looks like they smeared caulk on this thing with a putty knife! Looks like this caulk is failing all over the place. Looks like I need to remove the old caulk and replace it with new. What kind of caulk would be best for this application? Also, I have a couple cracks in the end cap. What material is it made of and what would be the best technique to repair the cracks before they get worse? One more thing, looks like the antennae is leaking as well. Do
I really need this old antennae? Should I remove it and cover the opening with a piece of new skin? Should I upgrade to a modern digital antennae?
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:04 PM   #4
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Welcome to my nightmare….

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...me-106269.html

While fixing your leaks with Trempro 635, SikiFlex 221 or Parbond remember to remove the marker lights and reseal as I found a lot of extra holes drilled into the end cap and never sealed. Also the spot lamp and horns.

The end caps are ABS plastic and the only thing that sticks to ABS is ABS Mek slurry (see Keyair Airstream 345 newbie thread for instructions on how to make and use) or PL Premium. The end caps are very fragile so be careful.

As for the antennae I wouldn't remove if you don't have to as patching unnecessary holes are a pain but by all means go digital. Heck, all the tunes I had in mine are driven by my tablet into a Bose dock stereo system. I don't even listen to the radio anymore.

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Old 05-07-2014, 09:14 AM   #5
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Airstream motorhomes are actually trailers after all..They need the same resealing of every seam and vent surround..annually if possible.
I used Vulkem in a large syringe to do mine.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:19 PM   #6
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Post number four is how I fixed my endcap. Check it out and see if you like it. Material used is "automotive goop." Works like a charm!
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:10 PM   #7
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I've actually purchased Eteranabond tape for the roof seams on my motorhome. One of the 4 previous owners had decided to 'seal' the roof with tar based roofing paint, which didn't work worth a damn....
Took forever to strip off roofing paint, Eternabond is installed, will follow with white reflective roofing paint soon.
For the seams on back roof area, I did same thing as ALANSD, syringe of Vulken (look for it at Fastenal stores) Tiny bead, along seam, follow with paint thinner soaked rag to be sure it's worked into the overlap of aluminum.
With both the Eternabond and the Vulkem at roof seams, so for, no more leaks at rear.
Now onto the clearance lights up front. If yours are anything like mine after 25 years, they were toast. Found some LED replacements on eBay for about $5 a piece, less heat, less power consumption.
Good Luck, Derek
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:33 PM   #8
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I started tailgating in my EXCELLA 280 5yrs ago. Go to my FB page at SILVERBULLET TAILGATE to see my pics.
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Old 05-14-2014, 07:56 PM   #9
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Nice write-up Isuzusweet! That will be a big help. Why would
I need a cuss jar? I never cussed before. Can you explain the advantage of the Coosa marine plywood product? There was nothing special about the plywood originally installed at the factory.
Crazeevw, what is the Vulkem like after it sets up? The caulk that the factory used did not get hard when it cured. They used it around the screws for the clearance lights and I was able to remove them and reinstall them with ease. I am afraid if I use a caulk that gets hard when it cures I will not be able to remove and replace the screws if needed (like when I strip the skin to polish)
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:58 PM   #10
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That looks more like butyl tape, kinda grainy, won't get hard.

Vulkem ( trempro 635) gets rubbery but I don't think it would reseal after putting a fastener thru it..... If that's what you want I'd suggest Eternabond doublestick tape, roll it up in a ball, rope whatever..... I'm going to use it to seal up the hole in the skin from the clearance lights.
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:30 PM   #11
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ASTailgate, I could not find your pics on FB. I would really like to see how you set yours up to tailgate.
Well, I think I have removed all the rotten plywood. Hopefully I can clean up the mess tomorrow and start putting things back together. I need to start a material list. This is getting more involved than I had hoped.
Looking at the last photo, this would be a good time to do a brake job
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:34 PM   #12
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Here's a few pics. Click image for larger version

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In FB go to search and type in Silver Bullet Tailgate to see actual tailgate pics.
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Old 05-17-2014, 09:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Nice write-up Isuzusweet! That will be a big help. Why would
I need a cuss jar? I never cussed before. Can you explain the advantage of the Coosa marine plywood product? There was nothing special about the plywood originally installed at the factory.

The caulk that the factory used did not get hard when it cured.
Sorry that your sense of humour didn't apreciate the cuss jar.

There is still nothing special about the subfloor that Airstream uses today…..OSB board. Do you know what OSB board does when it gets wet? Coosa is completely synthetic fibre glass reinforced foam core, doesn't expand or contract, doesn't rot, mildew or promote the growth of fungus. I can stay wet and the water will simply stay on top of the board……..all for 40% lighter than the original plywood in some of our classics.

Trempro 635 or Sikiflex 221 dries to a rubbery state and will stay flexible far longer than even the original Vulcum.

As I said in my original post I only want to do this job once…….
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Old 05-18-2014, 06:09 PM   #14
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ASTailgate, I was entering my search as SILVERBULLET, It came up fine when I entered Silver Bullet. Nice looking rig you have, looks like you really enjoy the game day experience! I doubt we will ever play Texas but, if we do, we could park nose to nose
Isuzusweet, I looked at the Coosa on the web. I see what you mean about the durability. I will look for a local source. I am not impressed with the design from the factory. The plywood over the front wheels in particular is not well protected from the elements.
I will need to replace the radio antenna before I put it back together. Does anyone have a source for the antenna shown in this picture.
Also, would like to get a radio with a back-up camera. Does anyone have experience with an aftermarket radio? I would like to run the wire back to the back of the MH while I have it apart. What kind of wire should I use? I was thinking about using a light fixture like the one over the door to enclose and protect the camera. I would mount it over the bathroom window.
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Old 05-18-2014, 08:50 PM   #15
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Was it hard to get the driver and passenger windows out? How did u do it?
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Old 05-18-2014, 08:51 PM   #16
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As far as radi goes as long as you get one with video in you should be ok.
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:30 AM   #17
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Was it hard to get the driver and passenger windows out? How did u do it?
It's still there, just slid forward all the way. By the way AST, beautiful coach, but I'm curious, what was the weight before you renovated and what was it afterward?

As for back up camera's, here's my take. Wireless ones can be a pain considering the length. If you use a wired camera I would imagine 16 or 18 gauge wire would be just fine BUT and this is a HUGE BUT……the camera will only be able to give you a view of the bumper and beyond. I can't begin to tell you how many Airstreams, trailers included, including MY 310 MH that has had damage to the top corners backing up into eaves of houses and tree branches. Mine was repaired by a PO, but it caused significant damage to the top corner and curved glass.
Nothing replaces a set of eyes on the ground behind you, even if you have to ask someone for help (trust me, everyone wants to help an Airstreamer), tell them where you want to go, point out hazards to them and have them point for you. Give them the hand signals you want them to use and take it slow.
Just MHO.

Cheers
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:36 PM   #18
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AST, The driver and passenger windows are pretty straight forward. There are several threads on the subject. The best one was by a guy I believe was a minister but don't recall his name. Maybe someone who recalls can chime in. key is to pull all the rubber out. Mine came out with a vicegrip and brute force (mine was extremely rotten). I used a little pic tool from Harbor Freight (well worth the $3 investment). to remove the fuzzy schlagle. As I recall you close the window fully and remove as much of the fuzzy schlagle as possible, then open the window and remove all the fuzzy schlagle. I got it started with the pic then got a vicegrip on it. It is glued in and can be challenging. Once the fuzzy schlagle is all removed the glass is very loose and will rattle around freely. Raise the glass up tight in the top track and ease it out of the bottom track. When I had it all apart I cleaned it good and repainted it. I used duplicolor metalic wheel paint and was pleased with how it turned out. One thing about it if you are working outside , at any point in the process you can simple slip the glass back into the frame without any of the weatherstripping and stop 98% on the rain. One trick was to cut a little slot int the center divider to give you a way to get it started in the track. Glue the fuzzy schlagle back in with a few dabs of weatherstrip adhesive. Lubricate the vinyl with dish soap
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:45 PM   #19
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I just did a search and the guy went by 'Chaplain
Kent'. Also attached a photo of the finished product. I got all the pieces from Inland RV. Just tell them you want to do the driver and passenger windows and they will know what lengths of what material,
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:56 AM   #20
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Nice, Thank You. I'll try my hand at it once I get my truck back from the shop.
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