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Old 12-05-2012, 09:54 PM   #1081
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1996 36' Clipper Bus
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Congrats on the exam pass.
Would something like this work? Use a polished aluminium patch for backing.


Innovative Lighting Docking Hull Back Up Lights Chrome Model 580 0200 7 | eBay

Dave
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:10 PM   #1082
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Those look REALLY sweet Dave!

The price is sweet too...
We got our little floodlamps for $12 each... inc shipping.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:31 PM   #1083
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Yes, but you are going to spend a lot of camping time trying to reproduce that recessed mount. You could use these while you are working on the original mount without changing anything on the body. Then there would be no rush to get the mold etc. done and you could continue to go camping.

Dave
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Old 12-06-2012, 12:32 AM   #1084
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Dave... I wish!
We are a long way from camping yet...
Its been a crummy year. No job, so no money, so no smog, so no moving the beast.
Now my study is done, my exam is passed..
I am one step closer to earning a living!
There are 2 major jobs ahead of the big push on the MH.
Interior retrim on one car, and a transmission R&R on the Suburban.
Just trying to always have something done every week.

We had a lot of rain this last week, and I was over to check today...
Everything was dry, aside from the battery tray, which had about 1/2" of water in the bottom, as I had not latched it correctly, leaving a gap..
And yes, I had not drilled a drain hole... I have now!
I wanted to get up on the roof, but it was wet... I decided it can wait!
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Old 12-06-2012, 04:16 PM   #1085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masseyfarm View Post
Congrats on the exam pass.
Would something like this work? Use a polished aluminium patch for backing.


Innovative Lighting Docking Hull Back Up Lights Chrome Model 580 0200 7 | eBay

Dave
I found these as well. They are for a boat but should do the trick for those of us that don't have them.

LED Side Mount Docking Lights by Seadog Sale | eBay
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:11 AM   #1086
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You will still have plenty of work to do with those lights... the area they mount to is curved.. my best guess would be an 18" radius, but I will check. The lamp backs look flat to me.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:36 PM   #1087
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Wixom , Michigan
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Love going through all your posts Steve. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. Hopefully, I'll be able to contribute like you have!

Sam
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:45 PM   #1088
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These lens should be the same lens and are available on ebay.

Lens Replacement 4" Round Clear Plastic 3 Screws for Kenworth Freightliner Pete | eBay

The pots should also be still available from the truck dealers.

Dave


[QUOTE=Keyair;1234796]Docking lights, and nacelle..
The light output and spread was next to useless...
This was an earlier attempt with a LED bulb..
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:11 PM   #1089
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Glad my ramblings have been of use to someone STstudios!

Thanks for that Dave... They maybe the right ones... I just know that the Porch or scare lamp is different...

It does not change the fact that they are next to usesless and consume too much power!
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:33 AM   #1090
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Way to go passing your exam Steve!
Could you tell me how you removed the interior light covers? I tried one of mine and it was so tight I thought it was attached differently than just snap in and I might break it so I stopped. I've broken a similar one at home under the kitchen cabinets so it scared me. What's the secret...just elbow grease, a firm squeeze, and courage?
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:18 PM   #1091
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Way to go passing your exam Steve!
Could you tell me how you removed the interior light covers? I tried one of mine and it was so tight I thought it was attached differently than just snap in and I might break it so I stopped. I've broken a similar one at home under the kitchen cabinets so it scared me. What's the secret...just elbow grease, a firm squeeze, and courage?

Thanks!

The trick to removing the light lenses is heat...
Put the lights on for a bit, to heat and soften them..
They are still pretty tight tho!
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:22 PM   #1092
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Wanna try to start piecing the rear fairing back together...

Broken bumper will be welded and smoothed while its off...


And off it came today..




Anyone know what the dangly/stringy stuff under the rear end is called????
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:12 PM   #1093
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I think they call it a Hula Skirt (for some reason - I remember this from an RV show). ;-)
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:24 PM   #1094
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I think they call it a Hula Skirt (for some reason - I remember this from an RV show). ;-)

Got it!
Need to replace a couple of the pieces I think.

Ok, peeps, I need some help...

I have an "Open Neutral" in my 120v system, according to my little tester on the left here...
I am told this is potentially dangerous!



Its not on one plug, its all of them, and not to do with the onboard genset, as I get it when running on my portable 3500w generator, yet its plugs test good.

Now, the only thing I have touched on the 120V system was the connections in the juction box under the rear bed, when I removed the cable reel for restoration, and I was careful and think I replaced it as it was... which does not mean it was right!!!

Yesterday, I took another look at what I had done, and all looked tight... then I spotted something...
Outside the junction box there is a stray black wire....
I am holding it in LH side of this pic...



I traced it back and it goes rearward and into the wall under the gas filler assembly with a bunch of other wires...


If anyone has a moment can they look and see if they have a similar wire and where it should be connected???
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:53 PM   #1095
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Steve,

Hopefully I can explain it correctly, if not I'm sure someone will jump in and correct me.

In the motorhome main entrance panel (circuit breaker box) the neutral (white) wire should be on it's own buss bar that is NOT grounded. The ground (green) wire should be grounded to the box which means it is also grounded to the chassis.

The motorhome main entrance panel is actually considered a sub panel since it normally is connected to shore power. With shore power the ONLY place the neutral and ground wires are connected together is at the main entrance panel for the house, building, etc.

Now, the generator is considered it's own entrance panel (my words!) so it's neutral (white) wire should be bonded to ground (green) wire on the generator side of the transfer switch.

When the generator is not in service it's neutral wire is isolated from the rest of the coach via the transfer switch so the coach neutral wiring (white) will not show grounded.

Keep in mind your motorhome is not currently connected to shore power so if the generator is not running you will not have a bonded neutral to ground.

If your generator is running then the neutral should be bonded to ground.

There are a lot of good explanations on Airforums as to why the wiring is like this.

Like I said I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong and will explain why.

If your coach has two transfer switches then the attached drawings should give you an idea of how the wiring is in your coach.

Brad

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Old 12-11-2012, 01:27 PM   #1096
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Thanks Brad!

I have started a thread over in the electrical section too, and getting some interesting feedback there from Idroba...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...ml#post1237069
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:45 PM   #1097
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That black with a white stripe wire is spliced to the black wire fastened to the light in the water/electric reel compartment in my motorhome.
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:49 PM   #1098
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That black with a white stripe wire is spliced to the black wire fastened to the light in the water/electric reel compartment in my motorhome.

Awesome info Gunter!
I will look into that when I am next over!
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:02 PM   #1099
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I did not need to go to the MH...
Gunner is 100% correct, that is the feed wire for the reel compartment light!
I looked back at some "before" pictures of the underbed area, and compartment and there it was!
I had not reconnected it because I have to replace the floor in that area.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:56 AM   #1100
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My Buddy has promised to come over with me to take a look at the Open Neutral issue...
I read him your comments Brad, and he said it made sense... which is more than it did to me!

In the meantime, I am still working on sealing the MH..

Put sealant on several more of the window frames, and got them done.
Will need to clean up the excess later when its cured, same with the marker lamp castings... the sealant tools worked great!

Spot polished the places, and got the front marker lamp castings on... leaving the drain hole open..
Just in time too, as it started raining!



Did a good cut on the pass side front corner and removed the gunk from where the moulding was.

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