Our Journey Begins - 2018 AI TB Lounge

[RC-AV8R]

Originally Posted by TX-Newbie

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In my 2016, all 3 USB ports are mounted in the side panels. Is that the same for newer AIs? If so, any hints on getting access to the panel back to mount these new chargers? I'm quite interested in doing the same but don't see how to mount them without getting panel backside access.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by Mansderm161

Does this speed up a samsung tablet that does not do fast charge. I quit using my USB ports and just plug in the electric outlets because my USB ports are so slow, it's pointless. My phone does fast charge when plugged in the electric outlet.

MANSDERM161 - If your tablet supports fast-charging, then it should speed it up. If it doesnt, the port is still usable, just no gaining speed. My daughter's iPhone does not support fast-charge (supposedly need some other proprietary cable, but I have no details since it's not my phone) but still charges with it regular speed.

Originally Posted by TX-Newbie

Hey Alex,

No difference between the two ports after testing it again. I don't see an amp difference in any documentation. I wonder if I missed it. LMK

TXNEWBIE - Sorry, my bad, that one has QC 3.0 on both ports. I still had in mind my early model one that I got when they first came out where the top port was 3.0A but the bottom was 2.0 or 2.4A. I just checked what I have in AI and it is dual 3.0. Those ports are green colored.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by RC-AV8R

In my 2016, all 3 USB ports are mounted in the side panels. Is that the same for newer AIs? If so, any hints on getting access to the panel back to mount these new chargers? I'm quite interested in doing the same but don't see how to mount them without getting panel backside access.

RCAV8R - that's an odd number to just have 3 ports coz they usually come in pairs. Did they mount single port units in yours? What side panel did you mean, are you talking the side walls in back? If yes, those are just screwed in with a face plate. But maybe the 2016 ports are different, can you post some pics pls?

Here's how mine looks like on galley side R/S and bath wall side C/S. Note - the original face plate & usb base has a notched flat spot. That flat spot prevents the base from rotating in the face plate. The new QC 3.0 A does not have a notched flat spot. So you would need to round out the face plate to accommodate the round base.

[RC-AV8R]

@AlexAVI

3 Pairs of two I should say.

All three (multiple) ports are in the 'vinyl' side panels: computer 'desk' behind drivers seat, above both jump seats in the rear.

The new port looks to have a circular adapter/clamp & I was unsure how to get access to screw it on the new port. Looks like it just screws on to the existing modified plate and then remounted, correct?

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by RC-AV8R

@AlexAVI

3 Pairs of two I should say.

All three (multiple) ports are in the 'vinyl' side panels: computer 'desk' behind drivers seat, above both jump seats in the rear.

The new port looks to have a circular adapter/clamp & I was unsure how to get access to screw it on the new port. Looks like it just screws on to the existing modified plate and then remounted, correct?

RCAV8R - Oh, ok. So you have the GT with desk behind driver. I got confused coz your profile says you have EXT Lounge. Yes, the plates are separate from the round base. The plate screws onto the vinyl/cloth walls, they have wood backing for screws to attach to. Once you round out the flat notches on plate, the base just goes through it and theres are big threaded washer/lockring to secure the base from behind face plate. Since the flat notches will no longer be there, make sure the big lockring is really tight so that the front of usb ports dont rotate loosely on face plate. Don't even try to file flat notches on the threaded round base. I tried (you can see from one of my pics) and I could've eventually done it but it would've required more elbow grease or Dremmel to flatten out the hefty aluminum base (not the cheapo plastic originals). All it took was few strokes of big file to round out face plate..

[TX-Newbie]

Originally Posted by RC-AV8R

@AlexAVI



3 Pairs of two I should say.



All three (multiple) ports are in the 'vinyl' side panels: computer 'desk' behind drivers seat, above both jump seats in the rear.



The new port looks to have a circular adapter/clamp & I was unsure how to get access to screw it on the new port. Looks like it just screws on to the existing modified plate and then remounted, correct?

RC-

I used this step drill bit to round out the metal plate. Just use a clamp or pliers if you have to. It as super quick and easy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I kept the stock USB covers so that you wouldn’t have the led showing at night.

I am not mechanically inclined but you can get so much help on this forum. Enjoy.

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by TX-Newbie

RC-

I used this step drill bit to round out the metal plate. Just use a clamp or pliers if you have to. It as super quick and easy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I kept the stock USB covers so that you wouldn’t have the led showing at night.

I am not mechanically inclined but you can get so much help on this forum. Enjoy.

Link to when I did mine. Just like what you described.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post2128088

I too did not like the LEDs keeping me awake at night. So I reused the stock covers.



And yes, hold that plate tight when rounding the hole... use a vise if you have one...

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by RC-AV8R

In my 2016, all 3 USB ports are mounted in the side panels. Is that the same for newer AIs? If so, any hints on getting access to the panel back to mount these new chargers? I'm quite interested in doing the same but don't see how to mount them without getting panel backside access.

As Alex mentioned, you should have the same setup we have... a plate with two screws that holds the charger in place... remove the two screws and the plate with the charger should come out. Unscrew the nut holding the charger on the plate and it should slide out of the plate. Modify the plate to make it round... the link provided shows more photos. You can use a file to grind down the plate if time is no issue , or drill it to the correct size with the step drill bit TX-Newbie provided in his link (that is what I did as well).

I used male/female wire terminals to make it easier in the future to remove/replace them if needed.

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by TX-Newbie

Hey Wachuko,

I want to do this mod this weekend. can you share details of the wire routing and connection to battery/batteries for the front two please? I bought the Qualcomm ones off Amazon.

Thanks

Figured you already finished this task... anyway... here is the link to the step by step:

http://roadtreklife.blogspot.com/201...owered-12.html

In my case I switched it and got power directly from chassis battery as I wanted to be able to leave the phones charging overnight while the AI was off... since we are connected to shore power it was not a concern of draining the battery. And remember that I have a switch to completely turn off power to the radio unit... I turn all these switches off when in storage.

Link to my post when I did it in my AI

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post2112824

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by wachuko

I too did not like the LEDs keeping me awake at night. So I reused the stock covers.

OK, now that you guys mentioned it, I sure will now notice the LEDS when trying to sleep, need to put back the stock covers, glad I kept them for that rainy day

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

OK, now that you guys mentioned it, I sure will now notice the LEDS when trying to sleep . . .
. . .

OT -- Nothing like the "disco light show" which the Pioneer car stereo units used to provide, which IDROBA defeated with an inline on/off switch some years ago:

https://www.google.com/search?q=Pion...com&gws_rd=ssl

RIP IDROBA -- photo in Post #40: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...ba-150067.html

Thanks for all the great advice in this thread!

Peter

[TX-Newbie]

[LB_3]

Originally Posted by wachuko

Link to when I did mine. Just like what you described.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post2128088

I too did not like the LEDs keeping me awake at night. So I reused the stock covers.



And yes, hold that plate tight when rounding the hole... use a vise if you have one...

We installed a couple of these with pewter wall plates:


Magnadyne Black Wall Mount 4 USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZOG6TBE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

[DNM]

Forgive me or guide me for any breach of forum etiquette, but I am not talking about USB plugs but other items on this thread. Actually there is soo much good stuff on in this thread that Hijacking might not be a possibility. Any way I finally have my AI GT 2018 in the same place as my tools after living in it for 6 months in the beautiful White mountains of NH. So now the Wachuko-nizing begins.
1. I mounted the ARB compressor in the engine compartment. I was able to use the ARB bracket EVO-1097. I mounted it upside down with two 6mm nut rivets on the fender well and a bolt through the fire wall. I mounted a water poof switch on the compressor.
2. I mounted an inside LP switch in series with the outside switch. Switch is next to the entry firefly panel.
3. I am now installing a progressive EMS-HW30C power protector. After discussions with Airstream and Progressive, It is going before the transfer box which will protect from shore power but not the generator, and I will leave the jumper in for a 15 second delay AC start after power interrupt.
Thanks all for the inspiration and guidance.
Now for the question.
The next project is Lithium battery upgrade and I need space for the batteries and a larger Victron inverter. My thoughts
1. loose more rear storage (not happy about that), 2. loose the microwave and move the drawer up, or loose the on demand hot water. After living with it for a while, I concur with Wachuko, the hot water system is useless, wastes water and is hard to control temperature, especially if you are trying to conserve water. I don't think the recirculation ideas will fix it. Perhaps an electric insta-hot at the sink or just heat water on the stove or electrically if plugged in to wash dishes and self. It would make campgrounds with showers very attractive.
Interested in your thoughts

Also, I noted a discussion about adding a water pressure regulator. Is there something wrong with the one that comes with the AI?

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by DNM

2. loose the microwave and move the drawer up, or loose the on demand hot water.
Also, I noted a discussion about adding a water pressure regulator. Is there something wrong with the one that comes with the AI?

You could put a small microwave in an upper cabinet as is done in the 19' Interstate as I did (see my thread on Mini Microwave). That opens up a nice, big cabinet space that I am turning into much-needed storage.

re. the pressure regulator. The inside regulator does not protect the hose. I have been at several RV parks that unconditionally required an outside regulator. A broken hose, under pressure, will not only do a lot of physical damage, but will seriously endanger persons as well.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by DNM

The next project is Lithium battery upgrade and I need space for the batteries and a larger Victron inverter. My thoughts
1. loose more rear storage (not happy about that), 2. loose the microwave and move the drawer up, or loose the on demand hot water. After living with it for a while, I concur with Wachuko, the hot water system is useless, wastes water and is hard to control temperature, especially if you are trying to conserve water. I don't think the recirculation ideas will fix it. Perhaps an electric insta-hot at the sink or just heat water on the stove or electrically if plugged in to wash dishes and self. It would make campgrounds with showers very attractive.
Interested in your thoughts

Also, I noted a discussion about adding a water pressure regulator. Is there something wrong with the one that comes with the AI?

DNM - I am also seriously considering a lithium upgrade due to recent "Detaching Battery Tray" thread. If I proceed, I plan on mounting under couch/bed. Then use old batt. tray area for storage. I will still loose storage space in the swap but gain better batt. protection installing inside, more solid install, and closer to rear axle.

Agree with you on the on-demand water heater. Not really sure how to figure this one out. Does not seem to have an overwhelming better solution. Leaving it for now. Going back to old solution with 6gal tank is not an.option for me.

Pressure regulator - what JOHN (PAHASKA) said. Your AS Kit should have come with a basic external regulator. I carry that & my own adjustable with gauge.

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by DNM

Forgive me or guide me for any breach of forum etiquette, but I am not talking about USB plugs but other items on this thread. Actually there is soo much good stuff on in this thread that Hijacking might not be a possibility. Any way I finally have my AI GT 2018 in the same place as my tools after living in it for 6 months in the beautiful White mountains of NH. So now the Wachuko-nizing begins.
1. I mounted the ARB compressor in the engine compartment. I was able to use the ARB bracket EVO-1097. I mounted it upside down with two 6mm nut rivets on the fender well and a bolt through the fire wall. I mounted a water poof switch on the compressor.
2. I mounted an inside LP switch in series with the outside switch. Switch is next to the entry firefly panel.
3. I am now installing a progressive EMS-HW30C power protector. After discussions with Airstream and Progressive, It is going before the transfer box which will protect from shore power but not the generator, and I will leave the jumper in for a 15 second delay AC start after power interrupt.
Thanks all for the inspiration and guidance.
Now for the question.
The next project is Lithium battery upgrade and I need space for the batteries and a larger Victron inverter. My thoughts
1. loose more rear storage (not happy about that), 2. loose the microwave and move the drawer up, or loose the on demand hot water. After living with it for a while, I concur with Wachuko, the hot water system is useless, wastes water and is hard to control temperature, especially if you are trying to conserve water. I don't think the recirculation ideas will fix it. Perhaps an electric insta-hot at the sink or just heat water on the stove or electrically if plugged in to wash dishes and self. It would make campgrounds with showers very attractive.
Interested in your thoughts

Also, I noted a discussion about adding a water pressure regulator. Is there something wrong with the one that comes with the AI?

Get the water pressure regulator... here is a link to the second one I purchased (do not ask...just make sure you use the departure check list every time!!! ). I was able to find one for less than what I paid the first time around...

Water Pressure Regulator

Get the Camco 90 Degree Hose Elbow - The first time to you to a site where the spigot is close to the ground, you will thank Protagonist and the forum (as I did) for it...

And, get the Y-valve/splitter... Camco 20113 Wye Garden Hose Valve - Metal

So you do, elbow+pressure regulator, then Y-valve.... one side for the black, one side for the water filter to the fresh connection... It is more than just protecting the AI water lines. It is also about ease of use and setup when you get to sites that the water line is close to the ground... and that cool trick of not getting wet when disconnecting everything... and not really much space take nor lots of $ spent on this either... win-win-win

And when you are undoing everything, the Y-valve will help you avoid that water splash in your face and clothes from the pressurized water in the hose... yeah... another big Thank You to the folks here for that one too...

I like the idea of a smaller Microwave like John did. Came out great. Did not think about using that space for the batteries... I was just thinking about a deeper sink and storage... but you bring an interesting point...

Do post photos of the air compressor setup. Looks like you were able to use an available mount!! That is great!

And yes... no way in heck to hi-jack this thread... It has a bit of everything. Too bad we can't go back and edit... I would had made an index and organized things a bit better.

And just to share something. I have a working engine for my old 912... very happy. This is the first air-cooled engine that I have ever taken apart and rebuilt completely... so I have to share the joy.

From this:







To this!!! Finally no weird or expensive sounding noises. Just doing the break-in and adjusting carburetors next.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThNcSByLNCs

It is what has been taking my time lately. I need to finish all my car projects as quickly as possible.

And that ends the hi-jack for today. Back to normal programming.

[DNM]

Thanks guys. Didn't think about the hose. I learned the other tricks from this thread and added a backflow preventer on the black hose side of the "Y" to prevent contamination of drinking water. Regulator ordered. I like the area under the microwave, keeps the weight mid coach but not as easy to bring roof wires down on curb side. Question: when I removed the plywood skirt around the water heater I found a cable with a white, blue and black wire with 7.5A fuse. Not connected to anything. Any ideas? Also I noticed that the LP fill/switch area has a second switch (push button) that turns on a light. I didn't know that, nice touch. Will send pictures of my adventures after I read Janet's loading pictures 101.

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by DNM

...
The next project is Lithium battery upgrade and I need space for the batteries and a larger Victron inverter. My thoughts
1. loose more rear storage (not happy about that), 2. loose the microwave and move the drawer up, or [3.] loose the on demand hot water. ....

Hi, DNM. First, I'll say "welcome to Air Forums" because I don't recall if you and I have crossed paths before.

Second, how about choosing NONE of those 3 options you have listed above, and do this instead:

4. Splice your lithium system into existing body voids and lose no space at all.

That is what my husband and I did. We do not have an EXT Sprinter - we have one of the older Interstates, which has no rear storage whatsoever. We simply could not afford to sacrifice our already-limited storage for this purpose.

I don't wish to hijack this thread either, but with over 1,200 comments rendered to date, I'm not even sure what hijacking means in this context! Here's a show-and-tell image of our system to maybe get you started thinking along the lines of "I really don't need to sacrifice space if I just dump a boat-load of labor into the problem."

[Brezzin]

Originally Posted by wachuko

Get the water pressure regulator... here is a link to the second one I purchased (do not ask...just make sure you use the departure check list every time!!! ). .

Funny you should say that, I was at Rainbow Springs State Park last week and a Pressure regulator was sitting on the spigot when I arrived at my camp site.

Dave