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Old 12-17-2017, 03:14 PM   #261
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We use these as status reminders, looped on the steering wheel when something needs to be checked prior to departure, with the EPDM elastic bands, not office-grade elastic which will quickly split as you can see here.

They are not the real thing but are rather key chains available for about two bucks apiece. The elastic bands loop over the arm rest of one of the cab seats when not in use.

I have a couple of those! Will put them to good use. Thank you for the idea.
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Old 12-17-2017, 03:18 PM   #262
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Smile

Air compressor mounted.... after removing the driver side front wheel cover and using some magic to get the bolts through the existing side wheel wall...

I installed some heat shield underneath just for my peace of mind.

Will finish electrical at another time. Need to finish mounting the battery trays.
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Old 12-17-2017, 05:14 PM   #263
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I might be worrying too much... but I want to do this once...

I mentioned that my father-in-law used to work for the power company... as such, he has several interesting tools.. I was going to buy a cable crimping tool and he said not to bother since he had one with several adapters for different wires...

We tested it today and this is the result. Question is, is this crimp better than a hexagon crimp? all this will be cover with heatshrink tube and abrasive resistant cover...

There is one crimping tool in Amazon, not too expensive, that would do the hexagon crimp... should I go that route or just a waste of $$ ?





Attached are the photos of the crimping test we did today... it is tight in there and no way it will pull out...

Worrying for nothing??
Unless youíre a professional like Lewster, use the crimper you have. The ABYC has a tensile strength standard for crimped connectors. If you pass the pull test youíre good. On the larger cables this is particularly important b/c even a little resistance can generate a lot of heat when you have hundreds of Amps passing to your inverter.
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:33 PM   #264
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Yup...me overthinking things... smack in the head and I am fine now.


I agree, do the pull test on it and see if you can get it off, if not, good to go. Looks strong from the photo.

Another way to verify is to cut through the crimp, and look at the strands, they should look like a solid copper wire.
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:48 PM   #265
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Another way to verify is to cut through the crimp, and look at the strands, they should look like a solid copper wire.
Though that's not a very good way of testing the crimp one just made if one intends to actually USE the crimped wire!
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:57 PM   #266
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Well... time sure goes by fast... did not finish anything today... In my mind I thought I would be done with batteries and air compressor this weekend...

Battery trays installed and batteries are now in the trays...

I drilled the holes and painted the area to avoid any rust... 1.4" rivets that require a different rivet gun (quick run to Harbor Freight with a 25% discount coupon to get one). Six rivets each tray.

The batteries could not be installed 100% aligned with the ones on the opposite side because of the air suspension tank. They are shifted 3" more towards the rear than the ones on the other side. I don't think that would be a big deal...

Will work on making the cables in the following afternoons when I get home from work... and taking this puppy to work, heheheeh, want to practice driving it.

Good thing that the document from McRider made the highlight of making sure that the battery tray was not higher than the floor beam... those marker lines you see was to make sure I did not make the mistake of installing incorrectly .

.
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Old 12-17-2017, 07:17 PM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LB_3 View Post
Unless youíre a professional like Lewster, use the crimper you have. The ABYC has a tensile strength standard for crimped connectors. If you pass the pull test youíre good. On the larger cables this is particularly important b/c even a little resistance can generate a lot of heat when you have hundreds of Amps passing to your inverter.
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I agree, do the pull test on it and see if you can get it off, if not, good to go. Looks strong from the photo.

Another way to verify is to cut through the crimp, and look at the strands, they should look like a solid copper wire.
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Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
Though that's not a very good way of testing the crimp one just made if one intends to actually USE the crimped wire!


They feel and look fine... here is a photo after the shrink tube is in place. Also placing everything in a fire-retardant and abrasion sleeve and then the black 5/8" split loom tube goes over that to make it look like the other side... should be well protected.
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Old 12-17-2017, 07:50 PM   #268
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Quote:
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Though that's not a very good way of testing the crimp one just made if one intends to actually USE the crimped wire!


Lol! I meant if he just did a test crimp, yes, not recommended on final install
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Old 12-17-2017, 07:58 PM   #269
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You can tell from the previous photos that I have the pdf from MCRider


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post1949787

And now I understand the compromise MCRider made with his wiring...

I need to see what I have to play with to configure the wiring as optimal as I can... I ordered a 2/0 AWG Butt Splice Connector Bare Copper in case I need to extend the stock cable... but the stock cable might be 2 AWG right? Not 2/0 AWG?

I will check tomorrow... time to get some rest.
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Old 12-17-2017, 09:05 PM   #270
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Question

Well... could not leave it alone... went back outside and under the AI to check... stock wiring is definitely 2 AWG... that means that if I want to extend it I have to get some 2 AWG wire and a splice connector to do so... could not find a step down connector to use some of the 2/0 AWG that I have...

The other thing that is confusing... because I thought that could do it without modifying any cable length, is that I see two positive wires going out of the batteries...



One is long enough that I could move to the second bank and wire as per recommended diagram... but I do not think that is the correct one. Not sure where that one goes to???

I am guessing that the correct one is the one that is attached to the fuse in the first terminal. And that one will need to be extended (either positive or negative really...) And not I understand why MCRider did it like he did, lol, I might end up doing the same.

On other topic, and while I was there, as others have mentioned, there was a wire dangling near the middle of the AI... it was the one close to a bunch of wires next to the propane tank... driver side. Easy fix with a tie-wrap.



And got to see the propane tank gauge



Okay, that is really it for today... going to sleep. Good night to all
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:51 AM   #271
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Okay... mystery cable goes to the generator... puzzle solved on that one... thank you for the PM on that.
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:54 AM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lily&Me View Post
Figure out what the caulk is covering...

Get up there and take a good look at the caulk, as it does not appear to create a complete seal at the base of that mound...

If that is the case, add caulk around the base to seal completely, and insure water stays out...

Or not, but that is the recommendation.

Maggie
Maggie, that is where the power/control wires for the canopy go inside.

I will email Airstream to confirm what type of sealant was used. Will get some additional sealant and go over it again. Best to do so now that everything is nice, clean, and new.

Thank you for catching that.
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:58 AM   #273
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Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troutboy View Post
I agree, do the pull test on it and see if you can get it off, if not, good to go. Looks strong from the photo.

Another way to verify is to cut through the crimp, and look at the strands, they should look like a solid copper wire.
Quote:
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Though that's not a very good way of testing the crimp one just made if one intends to actually USE the crimped wire!
Well, I might just do that...

Turns out that the 2/0 terminals I got have a 1/2" eyelet... Another thing that I purchased incorrectly by not paying attention. The eyelets should be 5/16" ... placed the order for a few of those...

So I get to redo those ends and will cut through it to see what it looks like...
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Old 12-18-2017, 06:01 AM   #274
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Pending question:

Is the battery assist button linked to the charging relay I am replacing with the Blue Sea ML-ACR 7622 ???

Reason I ask is to determine if I need to delete that and maybe install the switch that comes with the Blue Sea in the same location... will look at the diagrams to see if I can answer my own question, just asking in case someone already knew...

I have that switch from the Blue Sea and the switch from the air compressor to install... have not decided where those will go... they look nothing like the ones on the rest of the panel... so maybe that side panel, where that battery start assist button is right now, will be the perfect place for them...
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Old 12-18-2017, 06:33 AM   #275
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Maggie, that is where the power/control wires for the canopy go inside.

I will email Airstream to confirm what type of sealant was used. Will get some additional sealant and go over it again. Best to do so now that everything is nice, clean, and new.

Thank you for catching that.
I wondered if that powered the awning....having manual everything, there is nothing like that on my roof, but installs on the roof have been notoriously problematic.

You may have raw steel under there, which will rust, and any gaps in the sealant will let water in...and it looks like there are gaps.

You might consider, it being such a small area, scraping all the caulk off so that you can take a good look at what’s under there/how the install was done, then re-applying new caulk carefully and meticulously.

I would also take a close look at anything else that is caulked up there. If there are lots of questionable areas, might have the dealer re-do all of this for you.

Speaking from experience, and years of reading of others problems here, just my thoughts...

Maggie
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Old 12-18-2017, 06:33 AM   #276
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Well, quick look at the electric diagram and I can see that indeed it is connected to the Battery Separator that I will be replacing with the Blue Sea unit...
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Old 12-18-2017, 06:35 AM   #277
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I wondered if that powered the awning....having manual everything, there is nothing like that on my roof, but installs on the roof have been notoriously problematic.

You may have raw steel under there, which will rust, and any gaps in the sealant will let water in...and it looks like there are gaps.

You might consider, it being such a small area, scraping all the caulk off so that you can take a good look at whatís under there/how the install was done, then re-applying new caulk carefully and meticulously.

I would also take a close look at anything else that is caulked up there. If there are lots of questionable areas, might have the dealer re-do all of this for you.

Speaking from experience, and years of reading of others problems here, just my thoughts...

Maggie
Best to do now. Thank you.
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Old 12-18-2017, 08:43 AM   #278
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And got the reply from Airstream:

Quote:
Good Morning,


The roof sealant is SikaFlex-221. It comes in gray, black and white, depending on where you are using it. Here is a link to the product on our retail store page. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Thank you.



https://store.airstream.com/product-...d-maintenance/
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Old 12-18-2017, 09:05 AM   #279
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Reference link for installing the Blue Sea ML-ACR

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post2017417



And the electrical diagram.



I should be able to use the same wiring to drive the switch in the front... meaning, replacing the Battery Assist button that is current in the AI and replace it with the switch that comes with the Blue Sea ML-ACR. Great to not have to run new wiring to install the switch.
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Old 12-18-2017, 09:27 AM   #280
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You can buy silkaflex online, and it is probably less expensive than from their store.

I would also take pictures of anything needing re-done up there.


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