Battery Isolator- Replacement Help

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Titus

Wachuko
Thanks. My real question was whether I needed 1, or even 2, of the high current capacity switches in the 3rd link.

And another question:
Is there a reason to mount the relay such that you can easily reach the manual yellow knob at the top? When/why would you want to manually disable it? (Although I note that the picture you sent does not show the yellow knob, but the link has it.)

The round red switches are in the AI already, do not need those...


The yellow knob on top is just another option if you want to have the possibility to make the change right at the ACR... I have it...can't access it since it is installed inside under the seat... but I have the remote switch to control it all... If you have it in your ACR and install it so that you have easy access to it... yeah, more options to manually switch it to whatever setting you want.


I like the remote switch because, with the lights, I can easily see in what state it is at...



I hope that helps...

[wachuko]

Titus.... let me not assume... I have those switches in mine... 2018 AI... not sure if those are present in yours 2013 AI...

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by Titus

Wachuko's schematic shows two battery switches. Do we also need two of these, or do they already exist in the Interstate? (Maybe the answer will be obvious when I remove the lounge seat cushion.)

You will only find one motorized switch on your 2013. The second switch was added in later years.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by Ti1tus

Alex,
The Sprinter alternator goes to the + of the chassis battery and from there goes through the fuse to the BIM and then to the chassis battery. So both the fuse and the BIM has to work to get the Sprinter to charge the AGM batteries.

TITUS - Understood. Maybe I misread OP's characterization when he said he replaced Triplite with Magnum and had "no problems". I took that to mean both house & chassis batts were charging from Magnum side which means the fuses and BIM is combining properly coming from the other side? Maybe OP can clarify (or maybe I am the only one confusing myself)?

[Titus]

Yes, I have one red switch that is manual only - the electric part of it musta started in a later year. I added a second switch myself to isolate the Magnum. Though we now know there is danger in doing that - one should not have the Magnum disconnected from the battery yet plugged into AC. Far as I am aware there is no switch on the positive side of the chassis battery. The disconnect by the accelerator pedal is on the ground side - I believe.

[Titus]

Alex,
I think his Magnum-Tripplite comment is from an earlier project and unrelated to his current post.

[Washboy]

My magnum replacement was from earlier project. Last night I pulled the chassis battery cover and checked all the fuses on the buss. All ok. So back to my problem. The wachuko post is helpful and I could follow his instructions easily, only if my AI had the same same Precision Brand Isolator. If you look at the photo that Wachuko so kindly posted for me, you will see that the existing isolator has a grey wire connected to start and a white wire connected to ground and NO wire for the Gen set. Is my existing isolator wired wrong or do I have to find a way to wire to the gen set?

[wachuko]

Do you have your electric diagram for your year of AI that you can share? I can't find it on the Airstream website:


https://www.airstream.com/owners/man.../tc/year/2012/


Boxster1971 posted these back in 2015 but I did not see the diagram there for this area/device...



http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ms-130937.html


With the diagram we can match the wires to the new unit. You will need to run additional wires to make the switch fully functional.


In my 2018 AI the Gen wire was to enable the hours meter... so not a bit deal if not used... Here is the electrical diagram for mine...

[wachuko]

So in your case, and we still need to see the electrical diagram to confirm, the wiring would be:


You will need to run new wires to make the switch work as expected:

• On Blue Sea switch Terminal 1 - Run a wire from chassis battery negative or ground post to here...
• On Blue Sea switch Terminal 2 - Run a wire from REMOTE (Red wire on Blue Sea ACR) to here...
• On Blue Sea switch Terminal 7 - Run a wire from LED (Yellow wire on Blue Sea ACR) to here...
• On Blue Sea switch Terminal 8 - Run a wire to a 2amp inline fuse and from there fuse to the house battery (+) positive terminal.
• On Blue Sea switch Jump Terminal 8 with Terminal 3
  
  
• AUX wire connected to old unit goes to Terminal A on Blue Sea ACR
• Main wire connected to old unit goes to Terminal B on Blue Sea ACR
• Start Signal wire connected to old unit goes to a 2amp inline fuse and from there to Isolation #1 (Brown wire)
• Ground - to ground block in that area
  
• In your case, Isolation #2 (Green) for the Gen-Stat wire and Isolation #3 (Orange wire) - left without any connection.

Hope that helps...

[Washboy]

That’s perfectly explained. Thanks so much

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by Titus

Not sure where all you have looked for fuses, but:
At the side of the chassis battery, under the driver floorboard, is a positive buss with several fuses and cables. One of the fuses/cables goes to the BIM. If that fuse is blown the alternator would not charge the chassis battery, nor would the chassis battery be charged by the Magnum. I assume that this same fuse is used in your Sure Power BIM as in the Precision Circuit BIM in my 2013. You need this fuse to be good even if you change to the Blue Sky BIM.

I had the same issue with my 2011. The bolt on that bus under the floor up front to the BIM was not tight so no charge was getting to the house batteries. If you haven't checked that, you need to even if you replace the BIM.

[Washboy]

Does this diagram help?

[Washboy]

Originally Posted by Washboy

Attachment 350281
Does this diagram help?

Sorry I see you already looked at this from Boxster

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by Washboy

Attachment 350281
Does this diagram help?

WASHBOY - to answer for WACHUKO (in case he can't right away) - no, that's not the diag he wants. It's the 12v system diagram. But given the pics you gave to him (that he posted), I don't see the need for your diagram. You have the 2 big Red cables which go to your chassis & house batts; those are obvious. And you have the Start/Gry and Gnd/White wires. Pretty straight forward.

On the newer systems (see WACHUKO's last post of his diags), those would correspond to:
- IGNITION Wht/Brn (Start/Grey on your old BIM)
- GND Wht (Gnd/White on you old BIM).
- DASH switch Gry/Blu (which you currently don't have, or I don't see in pic)
- GEN Gry -(which you currently don't have, or I don't see in pic)

So the last 2 DASH & GEN obviously are new connections that you have to add to get that functionality (if that was the goal also).

FYI - I do want to echo what GMILLEROK1 just brought up. Jumping to a replacement of the BIM for this problem, without confirming the connections/bolts, could cause you to chase the problem. First, those bolts GMILLEROK1 refers to are the bolts that connect the BIM control board to the actual coil itself. If they are loose, the coil won't engage and join the house to the chassis. Also, it would be prudent to check that you are getting the START/Ignition signal on your Grey wire. Without that signal, the BIM will not join either. At least if you have done this BEFORE switching BIM's, you know you have the proper signal to activate the new BIM.

[waninae39]

i mount all the victron and other electrical and electronic items, fuses etc and 3/4"plywood.
this was precut to fit on the wall under the bed in the front left corner
that is where the 7way, solar and other cables are

i left post for all other cables that need to connect
i crimped each cable with a round connector.

after mounting the board, all external cable were screwed down.

note
all connection, cables etc were labelled.
i leave a schematic next to the board
all connections have anti oxidation paste applied
all cables are crimped, no bare wires


i made 3 shut off switch, they were mounted on the bed wall facing the sink
1. solar shut off
2. controlled power shut off
3. front jack shut off

[Rig Rat]

Before one starts this BIM switch out, how should you disable the power from the batteries? Just turn off both the master and pillar switches or also disconnect the negative terminals from the coach and chassis batteries as well?

[Washboy]

Thank you Alex.
I have checked the fuses, connections, and bolts. I’m going to proceed to replace next week and Report back the result.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by Rig Rat

Before one starts this BIM switch out, how should you disable the power from the batteries? Just turn off both the master and pillar switches or also disconnect the negative terminals from the coach and chassis batteries as well?

RIGRAT - Yes, that would be best. Too many connectors in very tight space to risk

WASHBOY - Great! & best to you on switch-out. Will watch for your update. PS - WACHUKO's procedures and diagrams have been documented & well tested Following his steps should get you there without any issues.

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by Rig Rat

Before one starts this BIM switch out, how should you disable the power from the batteries? Just turn off both the master and pillar switches or also disconnect the negative terminals from the coach and chassis batteries as well?

I did all of that and I went one step further and dropped my 120v feed because I wanted absolutely no power in the area. I did the change using a LED lantern and flashlight.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by Pahaska

I did all of that and I went one step further and dropped my 120v feed because I wanted absolutely no power in the area. I did the change using a LED lantern and flashlight.

JOHN - that's the only way, the safe way. Your comment reminded me of my younger days when I would replace outlets, switches, or add outlets in my house without turning off breakers. I been electricuted (120v) so many times, it may take 2 electric chairs to kill me
But what scared me was the one time my screwdriver slipped and the arc went through my thick Craftsman screwdriver (big hole) and a hot ember sliver landed very close to my eyes, even with eye protection is got past sideways. Scary, never again.