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Old 08-22-2019, 12:29 PM   #1
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Battery Isolator- Replacement Help

My 2012 AI is not charging the house battery from the engine alternator. I cannot find any blown fuses or loose connections. I purchased a Blue Sea
ML-ACR 7620 to replace the Sure Power 1315-200 battery Isolator. I have searched the forums and cannot find where anyone has had the sure power. I also do not have a dash button. If anyone could help me with wiring, I would really appreciate it. I replaced the trip lite inverter with a magnum last year with no problems thanks to information on this forum.
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Old 08-22-2019, 12:48 PM   #2
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I believe that Wachuko has put a blue sea BIM wiring diagram on his thread “our journey begins!
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Old 08-22-2019, 12:50 PM   #3
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Fairly easy install. Are you doing the switch in the dash or close to the location of where you are installing the ACR?

Let me get you links from when I did mine... those might help
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Old 08-22-2019, 12:55 PM   #4
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Not sure where all you have looked for fuses, but:
At the side of the chassis battery, under the driver floorboard, is a positive buss with several fuses and cables. One of the fuses/cables goes to the BIM. If that fuse is blown the alternator would not charge the chassis battery, nor would the chassis battery be charged by the Magnum. I assume that this same fuse is used in your Sure Power BIM as in the Precision Circuit BIM in my 2013. You need this fuse to be good even if you change to the Blue Sky BIM.
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:06 PM   #5
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When you install the Blue Sea, you lose the dash button function anyway. In my installation, I installed the remote for the Blue Sea above the driver's seat where it can be easily reached to couple the batteries.

Best electrical mod I have done on two AIs now, my former 2014.5 and my current 2018.
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:20 PM   #6
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As I read Wachuko's instructions the dash switch still works. Using terminal 2 he connects the red wire of the ACR to the gray/black wire of the dash switch. Of am I misinterpreting something?
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:31 PM   #7
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Here you go:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post2083406

Quote:
Originally Posted by wachuko View Post
Since we can't go back and edit our post , consolidating all the post on the ACR install... and correcting a mistake on a post I made where I said that the Isolation Brown was not connected when it was actually the Orange (Isolation #3) that was the one left unused.

I wanted to have the switch in the front... I reuse the cable that goes to the exiting switch. Red (Terminal 2) wire from ACR connected to Gray/Black wire that goes to switch. And then I had to run 2 additional wires from the back to the front, to complete the install of the switch as per the install diagram (Terminal 7 for the yellow wire, and Terminal 8 from House battery).



Let me try to consolidate the updates from my thread in one post...

Response from Blue Sea (which is what Pahaska and FlyFishinRVr said )






My Blue Sea ACR was installed in the following way (remember to install the 2amp inline fuses!! ):

Terminal 1 - I ran a cable from chassis battery negative/ground post to here...
Terminal 2 - I reuse the cable that goes to the exiting switch. Red wire from ACR connected to Gray/Black wire that goes to switch.
Terminal 7 - Yellow one that goes to the switch in the front... ran additional wire for this.
Terminal 8 - Ran an additional wire from switch to house battery. Also with a 2amp inline fuse. I connected this to the terminal A in the ACR since the house battery connects there as well.
Jump Terminal 8 and Terminal 3
Used the Isolation #2 (Green) for the Gen-Stat wire - remember to place a 2 amp inline fuse.
Isolation #3 (Orange wire) - left without any connection.

I might be repeating my self. But for clarity. Here is matching to old Battery Isolator:

Dash Switch - Goes to Terminal 2 on ACR switch - I reuse the cable that goes to the exiting switch. Red wire from ACR connected to Gray/Black wire that goes to switch.
Ground - to ground block in that area
Gen-Set- Connect to the Isolation #2 (Green wire) - remember to place a 2 amp inline fuse.
Coach Bat - Terminal A on ACR
Chassis Bat - Terminal B on ACR
Ignition - Connected to Isolation #1 (Brown wire)





So connection ends up being as if you had two engines (one is the Sprinter engine and one is the Generator):



I was going to order a new trim to get rid of the trim with the hole where the stock switch was... Rather than ordering a new lower dash trim , I took out the switch, remove the label it had and installed that on the inside (to not lose it)... installed switch back and trim back in place. And now it looks factory and there are not labels to confuse that with anything else... it is just there disconnected.





I hope it is clear now for those doing the Blue Sea ACR install... This is one of those "Must do" modifications.
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
As I read Wachuko's instructions the dash switch still works. Using terminal 2 he connects the red wire of the ACR to the gray/black wire of the dash switch. Of am I misinterpreting something?
Factory switch is no longer needed. If you need to manually combined them, you do so using the switch that comes with the Blue Sea
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
Not sure where all you have looked for fuses, but:
At the side of the chassis battery, under the driver floorboard, is a positive buss with several fuses and cables. One of the fuses/cables goes to the BIM. If that fuse is blown the alternator would not charge the chassis battery, nor would the chassis battery be charged by the Magnum. I assume that this same fuse is used in your Sure Power BIM as in the Precision Circuit BIM in my 2013. You need this fuse to be good even if you change to the Blue Sky BIM.
THIS ^^ might be the problem he is having...
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
As I read Wachuko's instructions the dash switch still works. Using terminal 2 he connects the red wire of the ACR to the gray/black wire of the dash switch. Of am I misinterpreting something?
Depending on the setting of the remote switch, hooking the dash switch into the red wire could short +12 to ground. Since my remote is within reach of the driver, I chose to abandon the dash button. I can reach up over my left shoulder and couple the batteries.
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Washboy View Post
My 2012 AI is not charging the house battery from the engine alternator.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
At the side of the chassis battery, under the driver floorboard, is a positive buss with several fuses and cables. One of the fuses/cables goes to the BIM. If that fuse is blown the alternator would not charge the chassis battery, nor would the chassis battery be charged by the Magnum. .
TITUS - I am confused here - But how does that blown fuse (if it is indeed blown) affect the charging of the house battery? OP is having problems charging house battery from alternator but did not state there is any problem charging the chassis battery; ergo - if no issues charging chassis batt, then I assume the fuse is NOT blown
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:58 PM   #12
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Iím going to check that fuse again. I think itís big like 80 amp or something like that. But I would still like to upgrade the BIM. Again my AI does not have a switch or button at the Dash. I would love to post photos, and I have before, but my iPhone is not allowing me the choice to upload photos. I may have a setting wrong.
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Washboy View Post
Iím going to check that fuse again. I think itís big like 80 amp or something like that. But I would still like to upgrade the BIM. Again my AI does not have a switch or button at the Dash. I would love to post photos, and I have before, but my iPhone is not allowing me the choice to upload photos. I may have a setting wrong.
I sent you my email id... send those over and I will post them for you.
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:04 PM   #14
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You have several choices:
  1. You can mount the ACR remote within reach of the driver, as I did
  2. You can have a second person operate the remote to couple the batteries in the remote chance you ever have to do so. I never have had a necessity.
  3. You don't lose anything since you don't have a dash switch now.
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:13 PM   #15
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Thanks for clarification on dash switch versus Blue Sea switch. It appears that I need the 7620:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Auto...gateway&sr=8-5

and the Blue Sea switch that replaces the dash switch:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...s%2C365&sr=8-7

Wachuko's schematic shows two battery switches. Do we also need two of these, or do they already exist in the Interstate? (Maybe the answer will be obvious when I remove the lounge seat cushion.)

https://www.amazon.com/7713-ML-RBS-B...s%2C365&sr=8-6
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:17 PM   #16
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Alex,
The Sprinter alternator goes to the + of the chassis battery and from there goes through the fuse to the BIM and then to the chassis battery. So both the fuse and the BIM has to work to get the Sprinter to charge the AGM batteries.
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
Thanks for clarification on dash switch versus Blue Sea switch. It appears that I need the 7620:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Auto...gateway&sr=8-5

and the Blue Sea switch that replaces the dash switch:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...s%2C365&sr=8-7

Wachuko's schematic shows two battery switches. Do we also need two of these, or do they already exist in the Interstate? (Maybe the answer will be obvious when I remove the lounge seat cushion.)

https://www.amazon.com/7713-ML-RBS-B...s%2C365&sr=8-6



There is a kit that comes with both ACR and switch...


https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Auto...gateway&sr=8-4


Shop around as I found it for less (with free shipping) without going via Amazon.... for example (quick search, do a few to check)


https://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-7622-...xoCQEoQAvD_BwE


I mean, I am not stingy... but 20.00 is 20.00 LOL
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:20 PM   #18
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Further clarification. The fuse I mention is not between the alternator and the chassis battery +. It is between the chassis battery + and the BIM.
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:22 PM   #19
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:22 PM   #20
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Thanks. My real question was whether I needed 1, or even 2, of the high current capacity switches in the 3rd link.

And another question:
Is there a reason to mount the relay such that you can easily reach the manual yellow knob at the top? When/why would you want to manually disable it? (Although I note that the picture you sent does not show the yellow knob, but the link has it.)
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