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Old 08-25-2019, 10:39 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wachuko View Post
So in your case, and we still need to see the electrical diagram to confirm, the wiring would be:





You will need to run new wires to make the switch work as expected:


  • On Blue Sea switch Terminal 1 - Run a wire from chassis battery negative or ground post to here...
  • On Blue Sea switch Terminal 2 - Run a wire from REMOTE (Red wire on Blue Sea ACR) to here...
  • On Blue Sea switch Terminal 7 - Run a wire from LED (Yellow wire on Blue Sea ACR) to here...
  • On Blue Sea switch Terminal 8 - Run a wire to a 2amp inline fuse and from there fuse to the house battery (+) positive terminal.
  • On Blue Sea switch Jump Terminal 8 with Terminal 3




  • AUX wire connected to old unit goes to Terminal A on Blue Sea ACR
  • Main wire connected to old unit goes to Terminal B on Blue Sea ACR
  • Start Signal wire connected to old unit goes to a 2amp inline fuse and from there to Isolation #1 (Brown wire)
  • Ground - to ground block in that area


  • In your case, Isolation #2 (Green) for the Gen-Stat wire and Isolation #3 (Orange wire) - left without any connection.



Hope that helps...


Since I am mounting the ACR under the bed where the old isolator was , where can I run the ground wire from the switch terminal #1? Do I have to run wire all the way up to the chassis battery? or is there a closest place?
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:02 PM   #42
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Closest ground to the switch is fine... I was close to the chassis battery so I took it from there...but ground is ground
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:21 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wachuko View Post
[*]On Blue Sea switch Terminal 8 - Run a wire to a 2amp inline fuse and from there fuse to the house battery (+) positive terminal.
WACHUKO - just want to add, I had asked Kevin Patterson of Blue Sea a year ago about switch Terminal 8 whether it needs to be on House or Chassis or does it matter? Their response was it can get powered from either House or Chassis battery with no issue. Sorry, I did not post it right away but I felt it was not relevant for you since you had already pulled the wire from House to dash.

WASHBOY - this is just an optional/alternate way to get power to the switch, if the dash is easier for you later.
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:38 PM   #44
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Thanks so much
Wachuko and Alex. I came up to Ruidoso to enjoy some cooler weather for the weekend. Decided to tackle the install. Got it all done but chickened out when I wasnít sure the old ground attached to isolator (white wire) should be connected to the black ground from the ACR and then where to ground the New switch. I sure wish I wasnít so ignorant on this electrical. Is this question clear?
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:49 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Washboy View Post
Is this question clear?
WASHBOY - Yes. Concur with WACHUKO - Gnd is Gnd no matter where you pick it up from. The only time the wiring sometimes becomes a wonky issue in the rv is when dealing with the Neutrals as it relates to GFCI operation (inside & outside the coach, depending on what outlets rv is plugged into) & inverter. But that's all pretty much set from factory.
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:33 PM   #46
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WASHBOY - I think I did not fully comprehend your last question, so to clarify. Your WHT from your old BIM should be Gnd. It would not hurt to confirm with a Volt/ohmmeter. So connecting that to Pin #1 of your Blue Sea ACR switch should be all you need to do. But if you then ran another wire from that connection to a nearby Gnd buss bar or battery negative (-) , that will not hurt anything. You will have 2 paths to Gnd from Pin #1 but 2 Gnd paths is better than 1 (even though it's overkill) . Hope this helps.
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Old 09-01-2019, 08:00 AM   #47
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Thank all of you so much that took the time to help me. I decided to place the switch where I could check on it, but not have to route wires to the dash. My unit did not have a dash button/switch anyway. With all that I pack in the back , I can still have easy access and visibility to the switch. Very happy to report that replacing the old separator with the blue sea BIM solved the problem of house batteries not getting charged while driving.
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Old 09-01-2019, 08:36 AM   #48
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Excellent!!!
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Old 09-01-2019, 01:40 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex AVI View Post
WASHBOY - I think I did not fully comprehend your last question, so to clarify. Your WHT from your old BIM should be Gnd. It would not hurt to confirm with a Volt/ohmmeter. So connecting that to Pin #1 of your Blue Sea ACR switch should be all you need to do. But if you then ran another wire from that connection to a nearby Gnd buss bar or battery negative (-) , that will not hurt anything. You will have 2 paths to Gnd from Pin #1 but 2 Gnd paths is better than 1 (even though it's overkill) . Hope this helps.
What gauge/size wire did folks use to connect the ACR switch?
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Old 09-01-2019, 02:45 PM   #50
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What gauge/size wire did folks use to connect the ACR switch?
You will not need any additional wire except for the remote switch. I used #14 automotive wire for that purpose.

The ACR has two 3/8" threaded posts that accept the heavy battery cables from the old BM. In addition, there are about #16 color-coded control wires about 10" long. Simply connect the wires from the old BM to these wires using butt splices.

You just need the butt splices and one large ring splice for the one smaller wire that attaches to the threaded posts. The threaded posts are a bit larger than the old BM. I used a yellow 3/8" ring splice on this wire and folded the wire end back to better fill the larger splice.
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Old 09-04-2019, 09:34 PM   #51
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BIM Fuse Confusion

I am a novice DIY electrician and plan to upgrade my BIM this weekend.
So thanks to your posts, I believe that I have the wiring connections figured out.

However, while reading through the Blue Sea ACR schematic I hit a snag and need some clarification on which wires get the 2 amp in line fuses (see below).

The schematic has 2 different and conflicting fuse placements.

The description to it says to connect a 2 amp-in line fuse to both the brown wire as well as the green wire.

Meanwhile, the ACR wiring diagram shows the 2 amp fuses on the wires running to terminal #8 and the brown wire.

Neither of these configurations coincide with what Wachuko did in putting the fuses to terminal #8 and the green wire.

Which one of these is the correct placement for the in-line fuses?

Thanks!

Mark
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Old 09-04-2019, 10:27 PM   #52
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Just connect the wires from the old BM by color. You do not need any additional fuses.
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Old 09-04-2019, 11:02 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wachuko View Post
So in your case, and we still need to see the electrical diagram to confirm, the wiring would be:


You will need to run new wires to make the switch work as expected:
  • On Blue Sea switch Terminal 1 - Run a wire from chassis battery negative or ground post to here...
  • On Blue Sea switch Terminal 2 - Run a wire from REMOTE (Red wire on Blue Sea ACR) to here...
  • On Blue Sea switch Terminal 7 - Run a wire from LED (Yellow wire on Blue Sea ACR) to here...
  • On Blue Sea switch Terminal 8 - Run a wire to a 2amp inline fuse and from there fuse to the house battery (+) positive terminal.
  • On Blue Sea switch Jump Terminal 8 with Terminal 3

  • AUX wire connected to old unit goes to Terminal A on Blue Sea ACR
  • Main wire connected to old unit goes to Terminal B on Blue Sea ACR
  • Start Signal wire connected to old unit goes to a 2amp inline fuse and from there to Isolation #1 (Brown wire)
  • Ground - to ground block in that area
  • In your case, Isolation #2 (Green) for the Gen-Stat wire and Isolation #3 (Orange wire) - left without any connection.

Hope that helps...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rig Rat View Post
I am a novice DIY electrician and plan to upgrade my BIM this weekend.
So thanks to your posts, I believe that I have the wiring connections figured out.

However, while reading through the Blue Sea ACR schematic I hit a snag and need some clarification on which wires get the 2 amp in line fuses (see below).

The schematic has 2 different and conflicting fuse placements.

The description to it says to connect a 2 amp-in line fuse to both the brown wire as well as the green wire.

Meanwhile, the ACR wiring diagram shows the 2 amp fuses on the wires running to terminal #8 and the brown wire.

Neither of these configurations coincide with what Wachuko did in putting the fuses to terminal #8 and the green wire.

Which one of these is the correct placement for the in-line fuses?

Thanks!

Mark
RIGRAT - First of all, both WACHUKO & the diagram are not in conflict. I ought to let WACHUKO defend his wording/instructions, but I am already responding, so I will for him. See the instructions I quoted above in red from post #29.. He notes put a 2A line fuse on Isolation #1. BUT on the one you quoted (not sure which post that was) I assume he just forgot. This is part of the reason I hate giving separate explicit instructions when a diagram already exists. When an electrical diagram already exists, regardless of any other instructions, follow the electrical diagrams. Except in this case, for whatever reason, the ACR diagram had no fuse from the GEN (2nd engine), I am assuming this was an oversight also. I would put a fuse the too.

Regarding fuses - it is always a good practice to put an in-line fuse (or ckt brkr) to ANY NEW connection to +12v (or 120vac). I am not sure if it is part of vehicular code or just best practices observed. Even low current accessories like my additional usb charger ports have in-line fuses. As JOHN (PAHASKA) had stated, you can just connect the wires from the old BIM by color without any new fuses. The problem with that approach is you have exposed the added logic/circuitry of the new ACR (which is not in the old BIM) unprotected if you forego the suggested 2A fuse. The existing fuses that are in-line to the existing BIM wiring are high current fuses (150A) and are there as protection between chassis & house batts to the solenoid/coil Terminals A & B. They will not protect the logic/circuitry inside the ACR/switch. Use the fuses as drawn in the diagram. Worse case is you double protected your ACR/connections.

PS, Make sure you do not add new fuses on the cables coming from house batts to Terminal A or start/chassis batt to Terminal B.
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Old 09-05-2019, 04:51 AM   #54
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Alex, thank you. It does look like there was an oversight on the diagram... the wording on the ACR instructions does mention to follow the same directions as the brown wire... meaning a 2amp fuse should be placed there... That is what I did and what I wrote in my instructions...

I omitted it in my instructions to Washboy because he was not going to use the Green wire for his install... but yes, a 2 amp inline fuse should be placed in the green wire as well, for those of us that are doing the wiring to the Gen hour meter.

Rig Rat, glad you asked to validate. Best to do that and not make a mistake when installing.
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Old 09-06-2019, 07:22 AM   #55
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Thanks Alex and Wachuko for the explanation on the correct placement of the inline fuses!!

To summarize, I will put 3 of them in, one with the green, brown and the 12v wire running to #8 terminal on the switch!

Am I correct in assuming that if I remove the battery assist cable off of the post by the Sprinter's accelerator, that it will disconnect the power from the chassis batteries to the BIM?

Thanks again for the electrical tutorials for this project!

Mark
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Old 09-06-2019, 07:58 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rig Rat View Post
...Am I correct in assuming that if I remove the battery assist cable off of the post by the Sprinter's accelerator, that it will disconnect the power from the chassis batteries to the BIM?

Thanks again for the electrical tutorials for this project!

Mark
Removing the cover and disconnecting the positive terminal directly from the battery is not much work... that is what I did. I did not wanted to take any chances...
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Old 09-06-2019, 12:27 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rig Rat View Post
Am I correct in assuming that if I remove the battery assist cable off of the post by the Sprinter's accelerator, that it will disconnect the power from the chassis batteries to the BIM?

Thanks again for the electrical tutorials for this project!

Mark
RIGRAT - Like WACHUKO said above. I would only add that I would disconnect ALL sources of power (house & chassis) working in that small area, even the solar feed especially if doing it outside. I just don't like to take chances with all 3 different power sources so close together.
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Old 09-25-2019, 10:56 PM   #58
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What has been the problem with the factory installed switch?
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Old 11-10-2019, 07:03 PM   #59
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There are several threads that are helpful in explaining your question, here's 2 to get you started.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...or-179585.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...-151481-2.html

In particular FlyfishinRvr, Wachuko, & Pahaska to name just a few, have provided great explanations, instructions and photos of their upgrades that can guide you if you replace your stock BIM!

Good Luck!

Mark
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Old 11-28-2019, 10:37 AM   #60
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Blue Sea ACR

I replaced my factory installed switch with the Blue Sea.
It came with the switch. Worked perfect at the time. left ac plugged in for several days. Checked the voltage every few days and showed same voltage on chassis and coach. A few days later I decided to crank up and ride around. Completely dead chassis battery that I had bought a week after i purchased the AI. Checked the switch again and chasses and coach still showed 13 + volts. I removed the distribution fused buss under the floorboard to check the 150a fuse. When I pulled the plastic cover off the dash lit up. Tried to start and nothing. Dead again. I have attached a pic of the 150A fuse. Since new the dealer had problems with this unit as it was returned at 3600 miles because of electrical problems. At the airstream factory the nut on this fuse was not tightened and intermittently made some contact as you can see on the pic. "Fixed crossed fingers"
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