1000# vs. 1400# bars?

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by OrangeCrush

If both bars are within range for proper weight distribution, then when properly setup they will apply the same amount of force therefor you will notice no difference relative to the tight door you mention. On the road they will act different.

Yes, statically, you could use a railroad rail and the stresses would be the same ,at a given wd. Dynamically, is a whole different story.

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[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Yes, statically, you could use a railroad rail and the stresses would be the same ,at a given wd. Dynamically, is a whole different story.

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Agreed!

[mixolydian12]

Thanks for a good thread to read! I tow a 25’ front bed (which has the front compartment) with a Ram 2500, and have the 1400 bars. I’ve been a bit paranoid about front end separation, but haven’t seen any signs of it after about 3,000 miles.

I emailed Brent and he was clear the 1400 bars were correct, in his opinion. Part of me still wants to downgrade to 1000 bars if I can get away with it to try to avoid this whole front end separation issue. Not sure that’s rational though without some actual proof of the bar stiffness being the issue. It would be very good to hear from Airstream about how WD impacts their trailers.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by mixolydian12

Thanks for a good thread to read! I tow a 25’ front bed (which has the front compartment) with a Ram 2500, and have the 1400 bars. I’ve been a bit paranoid about front end separation, but haven’t seen any signs of it after about 3,000 miles.

I emailed Brent and he was clear the 1400 bars were correct, in his opinion. Part of me still wants to downgrade to 1000 bars if I can get away with it to try to avoid this whole front end separation issue. Not sure that’s rational though without some actual proof of the bar stiffness being the issue. It would be very good to hear from Airstream about how WD impacts their trailers.

Good luck with that last wish.

[s1000pre]

Hey guys, I ditched the 1.4k bars and made the switch to 1k bars. They work great, I can’t tell if I can feel the difference while driving. I just like knowing I have a bit more flexibility when I hit a big bump or dips in the road.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by s1000pre

Hey guys, I ditched the 1.4k bars and made the switch to 1k bars. They work great, I can’t tell if I can feel the difference while driving. I just like knowing I have a bit more flexibility when I hit a big bump or dips in the road.

I think that was the right decision.

[Spaggs]

Originally Posted by s1000pre

Hey guys, I ditched the 1.4k bars and made the switch to 1k bars. They work great, I can’t tell if I can feel the difference while driving. I just like knowing I have a bit more flexibility when I hit a big bump or dips in the road.

That does it! I’m boxing up the 1400 pounders, today, and shipping them back to ProPride. Today, we are also taking delivery of our 28’ FC Queen. Exciting times!

Will test drive this weekend after installation and let you guys know how it feels, even though I have nothing to compare it to. Take care.

[sheriff1]

1000 lb is a good choice, you will love the way it toes with ProPride!

[sheriff1]

Originally Posted by sheriff1

1000 lb is a good choice, you will love the way it toes with ProPride!

Tows… damn auto correct.

[Hans627]

I just wonder what the logic is for ProPride to recommend 1400# bars if the 1000# work better? Any ideas?

I'm using the 1400# bars.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Hans627

I just wonder what the logic is for ProPride to recommend 1400# bars if the 1000# work better? Any ideas?



I'm using the 1400# bars.

I have long wondered that. And they are not alone. The application ranges overlap substantially and I wonder if they just default to the high side with a concern that most customers really don't know their real weights and measures. When I discussed the details of all my calculations and loading scenarios, sean had no problem shifting from a 1400# recommendation to a 1k recommendation.

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[Hermes]

Originally Posted by Hans627

I just wonder what the logic is for ProPride to recommend 1400# bars if the 1000# work better? Any ideas?

I'm using the 1400# bars.

There is a discussion on the topic of the impact of WD bars on front end separation here: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f23...am-225389.html

The difference with this situation is that in that discussion it was an Equalizer hitch whereas the OP has a ProPride hitch. The WD bars on an Equalizer hitch have two functions, 1) weight distribution (transferring weight to the TV) and 2) sway control through the friction created by the WD bars rubbing on the L-brackets bolted to the trailer frame.

With the PP hitch, there is no need for the WD bars to prevent sway, it is an inherent feature of the PP design, so the bars are only needed for WD. So it should be possible to adjust the WD such that there is no excessive pressure placed on the frame. Clearly with 1400# there is little or no flex possible in the bars, so it is the frame that will flex which generates the front end problems (see above thread).

Conclusion, too stiff bars with a PP is less of a problem if adjusted appropriately than with an Equalizer where you need pressure on the frame to control sway. But I prefer having bars flex rather than my trailer frame, which is why we now have flexible, round 1000# bars; and after close to 10000 miles of driving since the front end repair by Can Am RV, all is well.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Hermes

There is a discussion on the topic of the impact of WD bars on front end separation here: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f23...am-225389.html

The difference with this situation is that in that discussion it was an Equalizer hitch whereas the OP has a ProPride hitch. The WD bars on an Equalizer hitch have two functions, 1) weight distribution (transferring weight to the TV) and 2) sway control through the friction created by the WD bars rubbing on the L-brackets bolted to the trailer frame.

With the PP hitch, there is no need for the WD bars to prevent sway, it is an inherent feature of the PP design, so the bars are only needed for WD. So it should be possible to adjust the WD such that there is no excessive pressure placed on the frame. Clearly with 1400# there is little or no flex possible in the bars, so it is the frame that will flex which generates the front end problems (see above thread).

Conclusion, too stiff bars with a PP is less of a problem if adjusted appropriately than with an Equalizer where you need pressure on the frame to control sway. But I prefer having bars flex rather than my trailer frame, which is why we now have flexible, round 1000# bars; and after close to 10000 miles of driving since the front end repair by Can Am RV, all is well.

I agree with all of this. When you made the shift to 1k bars, did you also adjust the amount of WD applied.(ie. are you using the same TV front axle return that you were before?)

It is good to hear that you have substantial miles, with no further wall issues.
How many miles did you have when the crunching occurred?

[mixolydian12]

I think I’ve heard enough and am going to order the 1000# bars.

[Colossus]

Originally Posted by Hermes

There is a discussion on the topic of the impact of WD bars on front end separation here: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f23...am-225389.html



The difference with this situation is that in that discussion it was an Equalizer hitch whereas the OP has a ProPride hitch. The WD bars on an Equalizer hitch have two functions, 1) weight distribution (transferring weight to the TV) and 2) sway control through the friction created by the WD bars rubbing on the L-brackets bolted to the trailer frame.



With the PP hitch, there is no need for the WD bars to prevent sway, it is an inherent feature of the PP design, so the bars are only needed for WD. So it should be possible to adjust the WD such that there is no excessive pressure placed on the frame. Clearly with 1400# there is little or no flex possible in the bars, so it is the frame that will flex which generates the front end problems (see above thread).



Conclusion, too stiff bars with a PP is less of a problem if adjusted appropriately than with an Equalizer where you need pressure on the frame to control sway. But I prefer having bars flex rather than my trailer frame, which is why we now have flexible, round 1000# bars; and after close to 10000 miles of driving since the front end repair by Can Am RV, all is well.

I agree with your logic. I was on the fence with changing from #1400 to #1000 bars. IMO the need to switch is based on your set up.
I have a F350 Dually and I’m towing a 30FBB FC with the #1400 bars. All the talk of front end separation definitely got my attention. But when I analyzed my set up I made the decision to hold off on the change.
I use as little tension as possible but yet effective with my WD. My truck barely squats an inch when hitched without any WD. Therefore, my primary goal is sway control which is as you’ve stated independent of WD with the PP. So before we jump out and spend the funds, it’s a good exercise to analyze our setups.

[Hermes]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I agree with all of this. When you made the shift to 1k bars, did you also adjust the amount of WD applied.(ie. are you using the same TV front axle return that you were before?)

It is good to hear that you have substantial miles, with no further wall issues.
How many miles did you have when the crunching occurred?

The TV front axel return was not measured on a CAT scale before and after changing the hitches, from Equalizer with 1200# bars to an Easy-Lift (similar to a Blue Ox) with 1000# bars. The new setup was made by Can Am RV which figured out the number of chain links I was to use. I assume that it was pretty precise since Andy Thompson (the owner and hitch guru) gave me bolts to adjust to fractions of a link to be used once the hitch was "broken in".

Since WD with the new hitch is independent of sway control, and since my TV is a 3/4 ton truck, we are way below payload capacity and the backend doesn't sink much when the trailer tongue weight is applied, so there is no need to apply excessive pressure on the frame and with the lighter bars when the road conditions make the front axel rise before the rear axel, the leveraged pressure is absorbed by the bars and not the frame. Sway control is now done with two friction plates (Huskey), which are not required with a Hensley/PP hitch. The folks at Can Am have also installed hundreds of Hensley/Pro Pride hitches over the years so you can call them.

Our trailer would have traveled between 20-25K miles before Andy noticed the shearing of the rivets up front.

[s1000pre]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I agree with all of this. When you made the shift to 1k bars, did you also adjust the amount of WD applied.(ie. are you using the same TV front axle return that you were before?)

It is good to hear that you have substantial miles, with no further wall issues.
How many miles did you have when the crunching occurred?

No, I apply the same amount of WD with the 1k bars as I did with the 1.4k bars. The Hensley bars don’t visually flex as much as my 1k Blue Ox did. To be quite honest, my 1k Hensley bars look fairly straight under WD with only 1.5 lines left available on the jacks.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by s1000pre

No, I apply the same amount of WD with the 1k bars as I did with the 1.4k bars. The Hensley bars don’t visually flex as much as my 1k Blue Ox did. To be quite honest, my 1k Hensley bars look fairly straight under WD with only 1.5 lines left available on the jacks.

With the non-adjustable Hensley stinger, I am not surprised at 1.5 "marks" left. When I had my Hensley, I ran a "propride made for Hensley" adjustable stinger. With 4 washers I was running the hensley jacks at 3 or 3.5 marks, depending on load.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Hensley 1000lb bars moving 720lb.

Bob
🇺🇦🇺🇸🇺🇦

[Daquenzer]

There is a chart on the Propride website for the size of WD bars. The 1000lb bars don’t qualify for anything over 1000lbs hitch weight. The 1400lb bars are good from 800 to 1400lbs hitch weight. So if your hitch weight is below 1000lbs you will be OK. But if it is over 1000lbs you need the 1400lb bars. Since my “dry weight” is 980lbs, I need the 1400lb bars.

Here is the link.

https://www.propridehitch.com/propri...saAic3EALw_wcB

As to harshness of ride…well one time I left a tool on my back bumper. Drove 2 hours and found the tool there when I stopped. So it can’t be too harsh. Then again I’m driving an F150 instead of an F250 which might be the difference.