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p.dow · 02-17-2004, 03:53 PM

ok
that great site-
vintageairstreams.com-
catagorizes the range as
800-1300$

thanks
paul

flyfshr · 02-17-2004, 06:44 PM

I'd offer her 500 while mentioning the poor condition of the rusted frame throughout, the belly pan coming off in several places, pieces of wood showing through the bottom, droopy floor, and the general state of uncleaniliness. All this and you don't know the condition of the appliances to boot. Plus, you'll have to flatbed it out of there. I wouldn't mention that you have the skills to repair this diamond in the rough. You're actually doing her a favor

FF

p.dow · 02-17-2004, 06:57 PM

well...
the owner is asking for 900.
i said i thought 200
i really like the trailer. i have more ambition than money. and i always feel better about a deal if i feel i havent paid too much for the item.
i think and i am hopeing we will work something out.
probably 500 isnt really too much.
but it is such a unknown thing... i mean the extent of the repairs needed. its all relative of course

i will let you know how it goes
thanks
paul

biggerbadbrad · 02-17-2004, 09:56 PM

The owner could advertise on ebay and easily get $900. And probably more. I would offer her $500 and be happy to pay $600. I know of several people who are eager to purchase vintage airstreams like this just for their parts alone. Sure this is a major undertaking, but with some hard work and perseverence, you will gain an experience that money can't buy. The result will be the ownership of a rare piece of history that you will be proud to own. Sure, it will be worth considerably more than your initial investment and it will always appreciate in value. But if money is your only motivation for the purchase then I would pass on the idea. With the investment of your time and money, you will likely break even at best at resale time. And there are certainly easier ways to make a dollar. Love it or leave it! IMHO

bbb

p.dow · 02-18-2004, 05:03 AM

thanks for your perspective.
these have been some of the things i have been thinking.....

paul

p.dow · 02-18-2004, 01:24 PM

well.. i am now the new owner of a 1957 overlander...
came to good terms of 500$ with the owner.

does anyone know of some one i could consult with on the best approach to moving her onto a trailer or a flat bed... to move her the 12 miles to my place ? there is no way it can be towed. the tow yolk has total rust through- all the way back to where the rails go into the clad undercarriage.

before i start calling around here i think i'd feel beter if i knew of somethings i ought to think about.
one thing is - i am worried that if the transport isnot done carefully -damage can occur to the skin or worse collapse of some part of the trailer.....

thanks for any heads up...

paul

flyfshr · 02-18-2004, 01:40 PM

First things first, getting it home.

With all of this frame rust you mention, one must consider how this trailer will be winched up onto the flatbed of the truck. Sounds like the tongue will not be strong enough to support a winch line and the stress of pulling it. How is the rear of the trailer? Any better to use the rear bumper? Maybe there isn't enough room to approach this hook=up from the rear of the unit. Could the winch line be mounted to the frame just under the front of the rig? Do the tires hold air for supporting the trailer while being winched?

There has got to be a way to get this out of its old resting place and to its new home.

FF

p.dow · 02-18-2004, 02:41 PM

ff- thanks for the congratulations.... i think.
haha

there is no bumber- its missing. and the rear end has major droop.
what i think might work- off hand- is ...

if the rear wheels rotate..
and if the rear shackles or 'U' bolts on the single axle dont fail...
and if i can get a 'tote dolly' under the frontend/yolk area...
and if forces dont pull the axle clean off the frame....

then maybe a winch line can be attached to the axle and then carefully- very carefully it can be pulled onto a trailer or flat bed -rear end first.

seems like a logical possibility ?
what do you think ?

thanks
paul

Janets Husband · 02-18-2004, 02:48 PM

Good find it looks pretty good from the pics.
I would look for a Towing outfit that has a "Roll Back" truck that should handle your needs for 12 miles.
I would also remove the tanks and anything inside that is not bolted down. No extra stress needed for the frame.
The tires look like they are up so they should be able to hook on to the axles with a hook and pull it up that way.
Good luck.

p.dow · 02-18-2004, 03:01 PM

absolutly...
good idea.
old mattress's, refer, stove, water htr/tank.
etc .

paul

Janets Husband · 02-18-2004, 07:34 PM

I forgot one thing.
This trailer is going to be like moving a Grand Piano, it has three legs with wheels but it's not ment to be moved with them.
The Tung Jack post needs to be placed on a floor jack.
If you pull on the Tung Jack {Jack} at the same rate that the trailer is being pulled onto the Roll Back you should have no problems.
Slowly is the word of the day. It wouldn't hurt to have a bunch of strong buddies around either.

markdoane · 02-18-2004, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Janet's Husband
The tires look like they are up so they should be able to hook on to the axles with a hook and pull it up that way.
Good luck.

Visually inspect the shackles and U-bolts. If they look OK, you should be able to hang the thing upside down by the axle. Very heavy duty.

biggerbadbrad · 02-18-2004, 10:55 PM

What!? You bought that piece of junk!? We were just kidding! We wouldn't have paid 5 cents for it!

Oh I'm joking of course. Congrats on your new/old TT and good luck with the restoration. I hope you keep us posted along the way.

As for getting it home, I would hire someone with a picker truck (they supply slings for this) to lift it onto a flatbed truck. I once had a trailer (SOB) transported to my acreage this way and it was effortless, but the person who sold me the trailer paid for the picker (and it was a big one!) so I'm not sure of the expense. Getting it OFF the flatbed was, well lets just say, another story.

bbb

wildcat455 · 02-18-2004, 11:06 PM

are we talking about surface rust here on the frame? Or total rust out where you can drive a screw driver through it? Surface rust is common.. those frame rails are pretty stout.

p.dow · 02-19-2004, 04:28 AM

thanks guys -
the yolk has rust through, you can see the jagged edges of the yolk frame in that one pic that includes the propane tank init.
the piano analogy is a good one-
i dont think a floor jack under the tung jack will work (good thought though) because i am afraid its agonna break with any sort of movement .
might try it or use it along with additional support though.
i think i will need something (wheel/support) closer back towards the front of the trailer. (closer to the trailer relative to the ball reciever that is).
the rear frame rails(where the bumber was attached) are rust pulverized. it crumbles in your fingers. i dont know how far it goes into the trailer yet though.
the axle/shackles/U bolts and frame around this area look relatively good. just some nasty surface rust. the springs look a little worse because of all the close edges of the layers of springs.
but not too bad.

it is parked on natural sand/dirt.
first i think the thing todo is jack up the axle to check out the wheels. see if they will turn.
then go from there.
if the axle looks like it will fly then i need to figure out a dolly system (for the front end) appropriate for the job.

i think i am already closer to doing this now.

thanks
paul

74Argosy24MH · 02-19-2004, 04:42 AM

Quote:

if the axle looks like it will fly then i need to figure out a dolly system (for the front end) appropriate for the job.

You have to pull the banana wrap and belly skin anyway, do the front now. Make a dolly large enough to support a sizeable area of the front that can be attached to the a frame and frame. Remember a roll off will probably have a diamond plate deck and will be rough for small wheels, use something fairly good sized, preferably pneumatic to roll smoothly.

John

p.dow · 02-19-2004, 04:49 AM

ok - sounds like a good approach here.
thanks for the notion. i will doit.
paul

87MH · 02-19-2004, 05:13 AM

I really think that Janet's Husband had the right idea, find a roll back truck, and set them worry about getting it on the bed. Even if the tires were flat a good winch truck (and most of them are) could get it up the inclined ramp. As far as the front dolly, if it were me, I would let the winch operator just drag it up the incline.

Moving the LPG bottles to the rear interior of the unit would help take weight off of the tongue for the move.

Find a reputable car mover, they will probably give you an estimate to move it. They may charge you for the estimate, but negotiate to apply the estimate to the moving charge.

It would be surprised if they charge more than 50 bucks for the move. Remember, they winch 5 and 6 thousand pound wrecks with no tires and front ends destroyed every day. An Airstream haul should be a walk in the park for them.

I would hesitate to attempt to sling the unit. Without a properly attached set of spreader bars I would think there would be a strong likelyhood of collateral damage should the slings contact the skin of the trailer.

Good luck!

Keep the Forum posted with pics of the move.

markdoane · 02-19-2004, 06:41 AM

Paul,

JUST DO IT!

Can't you tell everyone here is just as antsy as you are

You've got a good plan. Take lots of pictures. You're an
airstream hero for doing this.

If you break something, you were probably gonna replace it anyhow.

Midamrail · 02-19-2004, 07:13 AM

We had our 1949 22' Liner moved from TX to MO on a flat-bed trailer, and it posed many of the same problems you have. The pipe frame was shot, and the frame had broken near the front of the trailer and in the vicinity of the door. It had no windows, the door was hanging precariously, and it still has its original tires!

For both loading and unloading, the driver used a winch on the front of the pipe frame with a safety strap around the axle. He also had someone continue to place heavy rubber wedges behind the wheels just in case it broke free. Make sure the door and any and all windows are closed securely to minimize body flexing and damage.

After our experience with a trailer shorter than yours, I might encourage you to consider two things related to the length of your Overlander:
1. Most traditional rollbacks will not want to handle that much length hanging off the back of their trucks, and you might be better off using a trailer.
2. There is a great deal of overhang behind the axle, which presents a serious problem during loading and unloading. The best way to counteract that is through the use of long ramp extensions. We used oak planks for our trailer, and it still drug just a tiny bit.

Best of luck, and good for you - I think you'll end up with a great trailer someday and should be commended for "rescuing" it.