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billrector · 12-02-2017, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Not yet. I spend a lot of time thinking things through. I plan to mount it on the side of the battery box. The picture is not my battery box but mine is the same. See where the large cable exits? Right next to that. I'm hoping the cable for the existing converter and inverter will simply make a u-turn and enter my enclosure through a new hole in the battery box. I'll buy a #2 short red cable to go from the battery + to the switch. I'll need to cut the red cable with the post terminal (cover) off and crimp on a ring terminal. The only factor inside the battery box will be the screws holding the plastic box on and the cables winding around the batteries.

I think there'll be room between the battery box and the frame to reach the switch, and the box will receive some protection from the elements by the frame and propane tanks.

Of course, as they say, "The best plan changes when the first shot is fired."

I'll think this through, listen to all the others, then collect the parts and go for it. (I seem to do things the hard way, in the words of Mick Jagger, "Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.")

I'm pretty much exactly where you are! I have purchased the same switch, battery cables (1/0) and just need to buy the ring terminals. I also purchased a Harbor Freight crimper to do the cables. I like the idea of a separate box, but I'm not sure about it being plastic?? I guess that would be okay. Okay....you first! Let me know how it goes!

Mollysdad · 12-02-2017, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billrector

I'm pretty much exactly where you are! I have purchased the same switch, battery cables (1/0) and just need to buy the ring terminals. I also purchased a Harbor Freight crimper to do the cables. I like the idea of a separate box, but I'm not sure about it being plastic?? I guess that would be okay. Okay....you first! Let me know how it goes!

Plastic (PVC) over metal? No rust. Do you think you'll be able to make the bends with 1/0 cable to the switch? I don't know. I think 1/0 is overkill. (150 amps at 12 v?) I considered two 4 ga. in parallel just for flex.
In my case, I never use the inverter. However, I'll need to plan it in. The largest I'll go is 2 ga. The existing cables are 4 ga and a 6 ga.
I looked at that crimper too. It's cheaper than renting one.
I may go for pre-made cables. I want then a bit longer to allow for attaching to the lid before fastening the lid to the box. I have to be able to mount the box, attach the lid.
Keep me posted.

gypsydad · 12-02-2017, 12:15 PM

Just charged my Interstates, monitored for couple days; went from 12.8 to 12.5 over 3 days while in "use" mode; no additional load other than standard connections from AS. Pictures below of install. Took all of 10 min to complete. Purchased from Amazon. "WirthCo 20148 Battery Doctor Knife Switch for Top Post Battery with Stud"; $22.53.

billrector · 12-02-2017, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Plastic (PVC) over metal? No rust. Do you think you'll be able to make the bends with 1/0 cable to the switch? I don't know. I think 1/0 is overkill. (150 amps at 12 v?) I considered two 4 ga. in parallel just for flex.
In my case, I never use the inverter. However, I'll need to plan it in. The largest I'll go is 2 ga. The existing cables are 4 ga and a 6 ga.
I looked at that crimper too. It's cheaper than renting one.
I may go for pre-made cables. I want then a bit longer to allow for attaching to the lid before fastening the lid to the box. I have to be able to mount the box, attach the lid.
Keep me posted.

True, 1/0 may be overkill, but I have read a lot about the cables between batteries and between the positive and the switch being undersized. I just got my cable today (ordered from PKYS) and it is VERY flexible. See attached picture! I don't see a problem bending it at all.

Bill

Mollysdad · 12-02-2017, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billrector

True, 1/0 may be overkill, but I have read a lot about the cables between batteries and between the positive and the switch being undersized. I just got my cable today (ordered from PKYS) and it is VERY flexible. See attached picture! I don't see a problem bending it at all.

Bill

That's good news. I was busy on Google and found a right angle crimp on connector. (I only looked for 2awg wire, but I'll bet they have all sizes.) That's 1/0, eh? Somehow I pictured it more like cam lock power cable.

Meanwhile I went to Home Depot and looked at the PVC boxes. Besides rustproof, they're non-conductive, and they don't have punch outs or moulded spigots for conduit. It's just a box. The 6 x 6 x 4 is really big. The 4" x 4" x 2" looked perfect if we can cram in the various bends of cable. I bought one ($7) to drill the holes and look at what I can do. It has a gasket for the top.
The switch, mounted inside, requires about 1 1/2" depth inside the box.

That's where the 90 degree crimp-on studs look great. The only one I won't change is the 6 awg inverter which is already a stud, and should bend pretty easily.
The company is Mouser. The hole is shown in mm. but the conversion to 3/8" is about 9.53mm.

https://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Te...z0z4xuZ1yqkc0w

billrector · 12-02-2017, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

That's good news. I was busy on Google and found a right angle crimp on connector. (I only looked for 2awg wire, but I'll bet they have all sizes.) That's 1/0, eh? Somehow I pictured it more like cam lock power cable.

Meanwhile I went to Home Depot and looked at the PVC boxes. Besides rustproof, they're non-conductive, and they don't have punch outs or moulded spigots for conduit. It's just a box. The 6 x 6 x 4 is really big. The 4" x 4" x 2" looked perfect if we can cram in the various bends of cable. I bought one ($7) to drill the holes and look at what I can do. It has a gasket for the top.
The switch, mounted inside, requires about 1 1/2" depth inside the box.

That's where the 90 degree crimp-on studs look great. The only one I won't change is the 6 awg inverter which is already a stud, and should bend pretty easily.
The company is Mouser. The hole is shown in mm. but the conversion to 3/8" is about 9.53mm.

https://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Te...z0z4xuZ1yqkc0w

Those crimps are interesting. That is the one thing I forgot to order and maybe that is a good thing. I receive the switch today also...same one you have. It looks like you can connect to the switch from the sides and I'm assuming that I can bend the cables to make the connections with a standard ring terminal....will see. I'll try to head to Home Depot tomorrow to get the box and maybe get to all of this next week!

billrector · 01-17-2018, 04:52 PM

I have been all set to install my Blue Sea battery disconnect switch in a PVC connection box external to my battery box. I read a thread about the Victron battery monitor (blue tooth version) as I would like to install one of those also. I then had a different thought about the battery monitor and battery switch. What's everyones opinion on mounting both the battery switch and the battery monitor on the partition located in the front storage compartment of my FC 27FB. This is the partition on the left side that separates the storage compartment from all the cables coming into the AS and the inverter.

To do this, I would not need either black cable going from the batteries to the compartment and would replace these with a single 1/0 battery cable. This battery cable could go to both the switch and to the battery monitor that would be mounted on the partition facing the storage compartment.

Any thoughts on this? My other alternative is to proceed with the installation of just the switch on the exterior of the battery compartment and add the battery monitor later.

chaseav · 01-19-2018, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billrector

I have been all set to install my Blue Sea battery disconnect switch in a PVC connection box external to my battery box. I read a thread about the Victron battery monitor (blue tooth version) as I would like to install one of those also. I then had a different thought about the battery monitor and battery switch. What's everyones opinion on mounting both the battery switch and the battery monitor on the partition located in the front storage compartment of my FC 27FB. This is the partition on the left side that separates the storage compartment from all the cables coming into the AS and the inverter.

To do this, I would not need either black cable going from the batteries to the compartment and would replace these with a single 1/0 battery cable. This battery cable could go to both the switch and to the battery monitor that would be mounted on the partition facing the storage compartment.

Any thoughts on this? My other alternative is to proceed with the installation of just the switch on the exterior of the battery compartment and add the battery monitor later.

I spent a LOT of time going over this in my head. Even drew out the diagram on how to do it but have yet to work up the courage to actually go through with it. I have a 25FB, undoubtedly different and was originally thinking I'd do it on the forward partition but may actually end up doing it on the more aft bulkhead in that compartment. I've already installed the switch in my battery box and it works fine, it's just a little "sloppy" to me.

chaseav · 01-28-2018, 03:29 PM

Has anyone ever heard of one of these switches failing? My Blue Sea cutoff provides power in either position! It worked for a few months, now nothing! Granted, it’s humid out right now but it’s marine grade!

Mollysdad · 01-28-2018, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chaseav

Has anyone ever heard of one of these switches failing? My Blue Sea cutoff provides power in either position! It worked for a few months, now nothing! Granted, it’s humid out right now but it’s marine grade!

No.
I had one in my 1979 boat and it worked flawlessly.

chaseav · 02-05-2018, 05:06 PM

It turned out NOT to be the switch. The lead that runs to the 12V panel was contacting the lead to battery effectively bypassing the switch. Now having to rethink my setup...

Cispook · 04-02-2018, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wulfraat

Yes they do that to balance load across the batteries... unfortunately they also use 6ga parallel cables to connect the batteries together when the inverter cables are a larger 4ga. Good grief.

I re-wired the parallel cables that join the 2 batteries with 1/0 gauge and connected all pos loads to a single pos terminal and all neg to the neg terminal on the other battery.

Wulfrat - does connecting all the pos loads to one terminal and all neg to the neg terminal on the other battery for astetics or better performance? Changing out to the Lifeline 27T I had to place them sideways in the box and there is no room to use single opposite terminals.

**wulfraat** · 04-02-2018, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cispook

Wulfrat - does connecting all the pos loads to one terminal and all neg to the neg terminal on the other battery for astetics or better performance? Changing out to the Lifeline 27T I had to place them sideways in the box and there is no room to use single opposite terminals.

General best practice to help to equalize the loads across the 2 batteries so one is not favored more than the other.

thiel · 04-02-2018, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobbo

The inverter pulls a significant amount of current, even when "off."

Wait... what? Really? You mean even if I don't push the "Inverter" button on my trailer it's still draining power?

GMFL · 04-02-2018, 09:01 PM

Mine draws 0 amps in standby mode. I checked it with my fancy Super expensive Fluke meter that reads DC amps

billrector · 04-03-2018, 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMFL

Mine draws 0 amps in standby mode. I checked it with my fancy Super expensive Fluke meter that reads DC amps

Hmmmm....did the same thing with my fancy Fluke that reads DC amps and I definitely get a current draw on mine even when off.

Bobbo · 04-03-2018, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thiel

Wait... what? Really? You mean even if I don't push the "Inverter" button on my trailer it's still draining power?

Mine does. Or, at least it did until I added a disconnect switch.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMFL

Mine draws 0 amps in standby mode. I checked it with my fancy Super expensive Fluke meter that reads DC amps

I don't have the fancy Fluke, just a cheap Amazon buy, but, I get about 1/2 amp draw even when the inverter is supposedly off.

billrector · 04-03-2018, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMFL

Mine draws 0 amps in standby mode. I checked it with my fancy Super expensive Fluke meter that reads DC amps

Since the amp draw is less than 1 ( and may be less than 0.5) could it be that you need to increase the resolution of your device?

pcskier · 06-02-2018, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pfcardwell

This is the connector so you do not have to cut and crimp.

I am gathering parts to install my switch. I can't figure out this adapter. There is no way of getting around cutting the lug connector for the 12v feed to the trailer as far as I can tell? That needs to be cut and replaced with a ring connector to attach to the Blue Seas switch. What am I missing?

Bobbo · 06-02-2018, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcskier

I am gathering parts to install my switch. I can't figure out this adapter. There is no way of getting around cutting the lug connector for the 12v feed to the trailer as far as I can tell? That needs to be cut and replaced with a ring connector to attach to the Blue Seas switch. What am I missing?

Take that wire off of the battery and hook it to the switch. Buy (or make) a 12" cable of at least the same wire gauge with connectors on both ends and hook it to the switch and to the battery. I buy all of my cables (cut to length, crimped ends attached, and heat shrink applied) from http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-wire

Here is a photo of my disconnect switch to the inverter. The cable going from the switch to the battery positive terminal was bought from the above website and delivered ready to attach.