23fd Battery disconnect switch install

[wulfraat]

Originally Posted by chaseav

Attachment 294431 So this is the back of the unit that I purchased. It's a dual circuit one so, if I'm not mistaken, I'm able to simply take the main positive and attach it to #1. Then take the inverter side and attach it to #2. Then take corresponding positive "patch" cables to their original respective position on separate batteries.

Unfortunately I forgot that I would have to cut the main positive line and crimp on that ring connector.

Any thoughts before I execute?

For that selector I would simply place a 2/0 or 1/0 red cable to #1 terminal and connect it to a Pos terminal at the battery.

On the corresponding #1 terminal on the switch connect both your red/positive inverter cable AND your red/positive trailer red cable.

#2 terminals will not be used.

When you turn the switch to "on" both the inverter and 12v trailer bus will have power.

Here is the corresponding wiring diagram for that setup....

[pfcardwell]

This is the connector so you do not have to cut and crimp.

[chaseav]

I looked at that and appreciate you sending but my 4ga wire to the... inverter I think... has an automotive post adapter on it so in order for it to connect to my disconnect switch it would need to be cut. Out of that I can then use the patch cable with the ring connectors to the screw on terminal. I think what I'd need would be male adapter if this one is the female adapter. (PS- I've brought lingo from both the low voltage and plumbing world into this discussion...)

[wulfraat]

Yes just cut the automotive clamp off and slap on a 3/8" ring terminal... drop in a little solder after you make the mechanical connection for good measure.

[chaseav]

I've got to ask too... is there a downside to keeping all the current connections as they are and simply using my #1 connections for the inverter and #2 connections for the 12 volt side? I'd love to not have to upgrade all the wiring. I'm trying to stay on a bit of a budget and have to purchase everything I change. Thanks agin for your help!

[wulfraat]

I'm not quite sure I understand your question.

I think you are asking "should/can I use both #1 and #2 terminals in the switch I bought?"

The answer is that you can but if you do that then you will need 2 new short red cables - one from #1 terminal to batt positive and a second cable from #2 terminal to batt positive.

So my suggestion only requires you to add 1 new cable to the system, vs 2.

[chaseav]

Oh. I was assuming using your suggestion I would NEED to upgrade the other 6ga wires as well. To match your diagram I'd be buying a lot of wires. If I can just buy two 4 ga and simply patch the two "sides" in leaving everything else the same, I think I'm a lot better off. But I'll defer to your judgement.

[wulfraat]

For a bare-bones install all you need is a single twelve inch 1/0 (or heavier guage) cable with 3/8" ring terminals to connect your battery to your cut off switch. Cost is ~ $13 shipped.

Here is an example:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KZSY43...+ring+terminal

While you are at it, it certainly wouldn't hurt to replace the tiny 6ga wires that connect the batteries in parallel. I upgraded mine to 1/0 as well.

See attached picture.

Here you see a 12" 1/0 cable from batt POS to the disconnect switch. You will also see that I replaced the small 6ga wires that connected the batteries in parallel with red (pos->pos) and black (neg->neg) 1/0 cables to reduce the resistance between the batteries.

[chaseav]

Gotcha. So my shopping list is two, 12" 1/0 ga, red wires; one of the same in black and then the 3/8" ring terminal for the 4ga wire.

On a related note, I tracked down the 1amp fuse for the propane sensor and pulled it. Now disabled that seems to help with the draw but even overnight I can see enough draw to prove that inverter is up to something. Considering I do not (knowingly) use it, ever, is there a reason I couldn't / shouldn't pull the negative for it off the battery for now? I would like to leave the battery hooked up for the main though if possible. Thanks again for the help and patience.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by chaseav

Now disabled that seems to help with the draw but even overnight I can see enough draw to prove that inverter is up to something.

Will be curious to see if you confirm the inverter has a phantom draw. Please update.

Meanwhile...it's been suggested that the subwoofer does also. Might be worth looking into if you haven't.

[wulfraat]

Originally Posted by chaseav

Gotcha. So my shopping list is two, 12" 1/0 ga, red wires; one of the same in black and then the 3/8" ring terminal for the 4ga wire.

On a related note, I tracked down the 1amp fuse for the propane sensor and pulled it. Now disabled that seems to help with the draw but even overnight I can see enough draw to prove that inverter is up to something. Considering I do not (knowingly) use it, ever, is there a reason I couldn't / shouldn't pull the negative for it off the battery for now? I would like to leave the battery hooked up for the main though if possible. Thanks again for the help and patience.

You can certainly safely pull the negative lead for the inverter at the battery. I would also pull the positive lead. I would also disconnect the ground wire as well (located at the inverter itself) to absolutely ensure there is no possible circuit.

But then again why bother? If you're going to put a proper disconnect switch you'll be all set. That way you can use the inverter when you need it.

[NoResults]

Decided to add this switch. Shop around Amason $56.00 E. bay $32.27

Dave

[chaseav]

Originally Posted by wulfraat

But then again why bother?

Only because it'll be a few days before I can order parts and install. Just bought two new batteries and I don't want this draw to eat them up too. The charging system burnt through my previous batteries (granted I should have been checking the fluid levels) and I'm hyper-sensitive to the issue at the moment.

[chaseav]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Will be curious to see if you confirm the inverter has a phantom draw. Please update.

Meanwhile...it's been suggested that the subwoofer does also. Might be worth looking into if you haven't.

Ah! The Sub! Yes, I need to kill that off too.

[wulfraat]

Got it. Then I'd just disconnect all negative and positive leads to the batteries and wait for your early Christmas present to arrive in the mail

[chaseav]

I finally got around to installing my battery disconnect switch. It's not to spec yet but will work on it when I have more time including upgrading to 1/0 gauge wires. The one thing that needs to change is that I have the main positive cable sandwiched between one of the batteries and the battery bolt which is threaded and will likely chafe. It's in storage for a few months so I have time.

Thank you Wuulfrat for the help!

[wulfraat]

Very clean install. Great job!

[chaseav]

Thank you, Sir! Would not have had the confidence to do it without your help. This is an install that every dealer should be offering with the sale. What are your thoughts on leaving the batteries disconnected if on shore power? I'd say the same for when towing to avoid overcharging on long trips but I believe trailer brakes require battery...?

[wulfraat]

When towing you need to connect the batteries - so the trailer brakes can be activated in the event of a catastrophic incident in which the trailer detaches from the TV.

When on shore power I typically let the batteries charge (connected) for 24-36 hours then disconnect from the system once they have been fully charged.

[surgpsych]

Definitely one of my all time favorite posts! Great info, diagrams and pic contributions. Can’t wait to be a part of the “nerd herd”![emoji16]