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Old 11-05-2007, 10:24 AM   #15
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1967 28' Ambassador
1963 19' Globetrotter
1970 29' Ambassador
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,180
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
DO NOT attempt to get on the roof if it's wet, or even damp. If you do, you will probably fall off, very quickly.
...and I'm spending good money to take my kids to the waterpark?

Steve & the crew
'70 Ambassador International Twin
'63 19' Globetrotter TAC WI-1
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Old 01-07-2008, 03:07 PM   #16
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2006 25' Safari
orlando , New Mexico, Utah, Colorado
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Be carefull of the plastic airconditioner shroud. I poked my the pad of my thumb through it, just pushing off for balance.

I'm a true bum, working less and living longer.

WBCCI #3841
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Old 01-07-2008, 05:05 PM   #17
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2016 20' Flying Cloud
Centennial , Colorado
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I have been on the roof of mine three times and had no problems. Andy's advice of staying within the awning rail line is important. Stay off of the end caps.

I also have a carport and have backed the coach up to the carport and leaned over the edge to work on things.

It's not as scary as you think and the Airstream is actually strongly built on the roof. Think of the weight that is up there with the air conditioner etc....
Steve "Centennial Man"
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Old 01-07-2008, 06:51 PM   #18
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1967 30' Sovereign
Los Lunas , New Mexico
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Yeah, ours has a nice dent forward of the AC, a legacy of the PO, one of many. Some weeks ago (pre-snow), I used a toilet plunger to try to pull it out. The plunger worked, but the dent would just pop back in.

Humm. Now that there's snow on the ground, we have lots of time to ponder the next move. One idea is to remove a rivet from the inside and use expanding foam: While one of us holds the dent out from the outside with the plunger, the other of us sticks in the straw and fills the cavity with the foam. Then sit, wait, and hope.

WBCCI 21043
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Old 01-08-2008, 06:15 PM   #19
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1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
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I have had good sucess using soft rubber knee pads and kneeling on the rib lines. fully clothed I weigh in at close to 250 lbs and did not experience any flexing of the body at the rib lines. Make sure your shoes have soft toes too by the way so they don't scratch the areas behind you. I used some foam plumbing pipe insulation around the sides of my metal folding ladder to cushion between the ladder and the tops of the window frames where I typically leaned the ladder. I did not find any particular need to actually stand up on top of my rig.

Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
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Old 01-08-2008, 08:17 PM   #20
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2004 30' Classic Slideout
Ft. Myers , Florida
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I use swimming pool noodles on the extension ladder for chafing gear. For cleaning the top, look at Shurehold products at your local marine hardware store. They have a wide range of telescoping handles, brushes, mits, etc. It's what we use to wash down yachts, and modern yachts are almost impossible to wash safely. (form over function) They're pricey, but you only have to buy the stuff once, it's good quality. I also walk on the frames if I have to go on the roof, I wear good deck shoes and knee pads, and go slow. --Mark--
--Mark and June-- "Every time I feel the urge to exercise, I go lay down until it passes." Mark Twain
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Old 04-26-2008, 06:22 PM   #21
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1973 27' Overlander
East Haven , Connecticut
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Originally Posted by 53flyingcloud
This an excellent time to pass on this reminder..
Weight limitations for the Airstream roof is, as stated by Airstream, 250lbs on the rivet line.
Be careful~
which is why I do not get on my roof (6'5" 280lbs). Luckily, with that disadvantage comes really long arms. 6 foot ladder and a scrub brush for me to clean and I can reach to the middle of the roof with my hand or any hand tools when needed.

If you're in southern CT, email me and I'll help anyone who needs it.
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Old 04-26-2008, 08:52 PM   #22
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I had a Guy come and look at my airconditioner. I think they sent the biggest guy in the shop. Also not experenced with Airstream. He must have been close to 300 lbs. He just climbed up the ladder and stepped on the roof. I thoughts he was coming through. So did he. He got the idea fast and stayed on the rivets. The roof sprun back in shape and Hasn't leaked. That was 3 years ago.
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Old 04-26-2008, 09:26 PM   #23
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I have a piece of foam rubber about 4inches thick and 3 ft square. I put that on the motor home and put the extension ladder on that. I can reach any where on the roof
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Old 08-09-2008, 04:28 PM   #24
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2002 27' Safari
Churchville , Maryland
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Ladder Rests

I use ladder rests made from plywood and foam rubber. 1/4 plywood is flexible enough that is can be screwed to contoured plywood supports. A rest is attached to one section of extension ladder with wire ties and another section with a rest is placed on the opposite side of the AS. The ladder bottoms are may be tied with a rope under the trailer. Scaffolding can be placed between the ladder upper rungs.

To copy the AS contour, I used a wire (coat hanger) and bent it to match the contour. This was transferred to cardboard to make a template and then transferred to wood stock.

After the wood assembly with screws and glue, foam rubber was glued in place. Holes are drilled at spacings to accommodate the wire ties and ladder rung spacing.

AS mechanics have told me it is OK to walk on the roof. But you have to get up there somehow and I am not agile enough to walk on the roof, confident that I won’t do damage. Besides, I believe in Murphy’s Law.
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Old 08-11-2008, 05:03 PM   #25
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make sure it is dry

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