hi guys/gals/users/friends/watchers/trolls and all the other brilLLliant screen pixels...
goofy home brewed tweaks offered for free from some cat with a mouse are not fixes.
they come from folks who want you to screw up your hitch like they have
based on the idea that lemmings in mass offer protection from the cliff drop...
IF the hitch needs a fix let the designer/builder/manufacturer create it.
force has got to go somewhere and the bracket/yoke/Ubolts as designed allow for that, when the USER takes the angles to the limit.
this is akin to the shear bolts used on the older faded orange design with struts.
haha users got the 'wise idea' that replacing shear bolts with higher grade hardware was a fix...
when all that did/does/dooo is result in the struts bending/breaking...
or in this design the yoke/bracket being damaged by extreme angle turns/backing.
leave the friggin bracket/U bolts/yoke-finger alone or at the most follow the design and set up.
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while raising the tanks via a wood shim (on classics) or raising the tank brackets with bolts/washers (safari/flying cloud) is ok...
and perhaps necessary on some trailer A frames or years/models...
those are trailer mods not a hitch mods...be very careful about using free advice to FIX the hitch...
it's not broken as designed.
there are pictures at the front end of this thread that show bracket/Ubolt placement on the classic A frame...
+/- .5 to 1 inch of placement on either side of the specified 25 inches from the cup will clear the tank bottoms on the classics.
still raising the tanks a bit does SOLVE the airstream design failure that allows the jack wiring to wear through and catch fire...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f353...fe-39545.html?
but that's not a PP problem it's an airstream issue
(current models finally come with the keyhole cut suggested HERE in that older thread linked above)
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how'dee morgan guy, KUDOS for reading it all...you will like this contraption.
ask sean for the pp' discount ne1 who reads the entire thread and passes a simple 10 question test may get a discount*
while any low fruit may occasionally drag, clearance is not really an issue. the spare tire bracket hangs just as low at the w/d bars...
yes there are rare conditions which may get the w/d bars near the ground
(like a continuously sloping campsite with sufficient angle relative to trailer length)
for visual confirmation of clearance look at some of the early pix in this thread OR in the sticky at the top of this sub forum...
((some topics were intentionally NOT covered in this newer thread because they had been throughly addressed in the haha thread))
spend a bit of time there and you'll begin to see the commonality vs the unique or improved features on the ppz...
in situations where the TV and trailer r on different angles RIGHT AT the hitch junction hooking up is still simple...
one simply loosens/tightens/adjusts the the jacks which alters the hitch head angle to match the TV/stinger angle ...
doing this during DISconnect/UNhooking allows the TV/stinger to pop free from the trailer/hitch head angle...
now just LEAVE the hitch head at that smooth disconnect angle.
then on REconnects/HITCH up the proper angle will already be there...
again this is covered in multiple places in the sticky thread on the old orange contraption.
the process is basically the same on the PP but the improved design of the hitch box means hook up at angles is much much much easier now.
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for the girl scout who posted in frustration earlier...
towing, maintaining, inspecting for safety
and generally fiddling with trailers and vehicles and hitches is a learned skill set.
wanna travel by trailer? acquire, learn and use the skill set...it's all within reach for almost every1.
there is not much point in hashing over your weight readings from a vehicle that has been SOLD...
when you get a new rig post some data and folks will help.
i would also caution you (and others) about so called HELP provided via PMz,
it is 87.4% of the time provided by some1 with too little spine to put there words in the OPEN FORUM for scrutiny ...
sorta like a stock tip.
telling you that posting your TV model would have resulted in ridicule is total HORSEapples...
it's also not really all that hard to sort out using the w/d-spring bars to balance the axle/tire loads on the TV or trailer...
folks providing FORMULA and links to other forums and PHD sounding crap are looking for self importance via complications...
after all isn't the secret to buying/selling stocks (not trading options) simply to buy low and sell high?
so start by weighing the TV axles and make note of the FRONT (steering axle) reading...
the goal of adjusting the w/d/spring/jack bars (after adding the trailer) is to RESTORE the steering axle loads to that original scale value.
no formula required, just note the 'buy price' and try to sell at the same price and no less.
the tv does NOT need to be perfectly level, again horses are dropping those apples.
getting the trailer level is another issue and starts with properly setting up the stinger for height/drop...
again when you actually OWN a tow vehicle and workout hitching post some pix and help will come...
or find a smart smurf to cOpILot.
cheers
2air'
*not really a discount morgan guy, just playing with ya...
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((yeah guys i check in and read here from time2time but for the most part air forums has become an enormous waste of cyber space and time))
i do think some threads continue to be useful in spite of the vision and direction provided by the social nonsense network...
trick or treat!
((_((please don't send me any welcome back notes, i am not back))_))
post your trick or tread messages here please...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...th-18538.html?
now i am headed back to the candy bowl...
vaya con ayrestreema en hiya hoe slivaOsilver
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