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Old 01-28-2016, 07:44 AM   #1281
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Ok, got the hitch on last night. It needs some adjustment - I have the shank one notch too high...

My big question is with chains. My stock ones are too short. I need to source some locally but all i can find are 5000lb rated chains. I assume 2 of them will be 10k lbs and I should be fine. Right?
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:50 AM   #1282
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Yes, imo. Some say each chain should be rated to trailer gvwr, but I don't believe that is what trailer manufacturers do, nor have I seen that in any print from RVIA or other regulating bodies.
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:52 AM   #1283
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You can add to your existing chains. Propride has a kit, or you can source locally. Just be careful of your chain rating and connector type and rating. Farm and tractor stores are a good source
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:55 AM   #1284
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:56 AM   #1285
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Ok, great. I clearly need to order the extension kit, but I am supposed to be rolling out today for the weekend (50 miles!). I will get the 5klb chains locally for the weekend as it is only $20.
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:00 AM   #1286
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IIRC, I added 6 links and a "quick link". All rated at 5000#
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:03 AM   #1287
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Wait! I just remembered. ...I couldn't find a 5000# quick link. I used a double clevis rated for 5000#
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:46 AM   #1288
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Where did you get them from? This is all i can find locally: http://www.lowes.com/pd_184562-29318...t=safety+chain
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:14 AM   #1289
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I used a "clevis link" and a chain of similar size to what was already on the trailer. I picked the chain with the heaviest rating, but same size as what Airstream used. I got all the materials at Lowes. They even cut the chains to the link I wanted them. Here is a clevis link: http://www.lowes.com/pd_656929-40391...t=clevis+links
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:40 AM   #1290
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Where did you get them from? This is all i can find locally: http://www.lowes.com/pd_184562-29318...t=safety+chain
Blaines Farm and fleet. Regional chain here. Look for TSC, blains, mills, big R, etc. They are all farm fleet stores...I'm sure there are others.
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Old 01-28-2016, 10:26 AM   #1291
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Originally Posted by Echelon73 View Post
I used a "clevis link" and a chain of similar size to what was already on the trailer. I picked the chain with the heaviest rating, but same size as what Airstream used. I got all the materials at Lowes. They even cut the chains to the link I wanted them. Here is a clevis link: http://www.lowes.com/pd_656929-40391...t=clevis+links
Thank you, this is exactly what I need. I will head to Lowes, get chain and clevis link and be good to go
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:13 PM   #1292
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We have made 2 trips with the 3P. So far so good. BUT I need some learning for unhitching!

I know there have been a couple of people post how they unhitch, but I am still really struggling. We have been on uneven ground so we use anderson levelers on one side, pulling on to them. Once leveled side to side and chocked I detach the chains/brake/7-way. release tension in the WD bars, unlock the over center bolts and then move the jack up and down trying to find the sweet spot...

This weekend I was WAY off and as I pulled the truck forward there was a mighty thump as the stinger was leaving the box.

Nothing damaged just a scare. I was off by 2 inches... in the vertical dimension.

So, what is your secret for a smooth unhitching?
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:34 PM   #1293
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When I raise the tongue jack I carefully watch the hitch ball area on top of the PP. when the trailer hitch rises up just a little, and the PP part stays still it tells me there is just a bit of slack in the connection.

At that point, I uncouple the latches. To verify I have slack, I basically just gently kick the PP head to see if it is loose on the stinger. If it's loose I'm good to go.

Sometimes I have had to adjust the WD bar jacks to get the PP head to just the right 'roll axis' angle to get the stinger out smoothly.

Admittedly, I have sometimes got the bang as the truck jumps up a little because I did not get it just right. I don't think a small vertical misalignment will cause more than minor embarrassment and a noise. It's pretty sturdy.

I had a minor misalignment hooking up once, could not get the latches to close. I adjusted the jack for slack, and because I had the stabilizers up, and the wheels chocked, I just backed the truck a bit. Yeah, the trailer slid a little, but the stinger seated.

It's sturdy. I wouldn't worry too much. I find it easier to hook up, frankly.


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Old 02-22-2016, 12:41 PM   #1294
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The sweet spot. .
A wise person on this forum told me, raise the trailer, just until you see the coupler move ever so slightly. You can actually see it move or relax relative to the P3. Also there is generally no reason to lower the WD jacks all the way, lower them until the bars can wiggle.

I still have some challenges with odd hook up slopes. They say it's all part of the learning curve.
Others may offer additional insights. ...
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:43 PM   #1295
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rmkrum,

Thanks, hitching up has been easy, the unhitching is not so fun! I tried doing just was you explained and it has worked 2/3 times, only 1 near disaster!

I think I read somewhere that another consideration for un hitching is to measure the height of the stinger when not connected to the trailer. Then when you want to unhitch use the jack to return the stinger to that height and you should be good to go...
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Old 02-22-2016, 01:15 PM   #1296
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The are two things we do that allows us to just drive away from the connection every time.

When backing the trailer into a spot, pull ahead a couple of feet to take the twist out of the tires, get everything into alignment, so there is no sideways tension on the hitch connection. That takes care of the horizontal binding.

Just before backing the truck into the hitch head to hook up (and right near the connection), measure the front and rear wheel well heights to the ground (on one side) with a tape measure. Make a note of it. Then when unhooking the trailer, after releasing all the tension on the w.d. bars, use the trailer tongue jack to get the same truck wheel well measurements you had before hooking up. That takes care of the vertical binding.

When everything is unhooked, chocks are in, drive away slowly.
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Old 02-22-2016, 01:18 PM   #1297
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2 suggestions:

Do not take the wd jacks all the way down, only until they are loose.
measure the height of the receiver before you hitch up, put a piece of tape on your wrench handle at that point, adjust the power jack height to match that when you are ready to unhook and you slide right out.
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:05 PM   #1298
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THANKS!

We are heading back out oN Thursday night, so I will be able to put some of this to use...
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:09 PM   #1299
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You guys find hitching and unhitching the 3P to be a bit tedious compared to other WD hitches?
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:43 PM   #1300
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nope.. even if it did, worth a bit of time....
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