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Old 12-03-2009, 07:09 PM   #169
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...I think there is less than a foot under the W/D bars.
yeah, this is a regular concern for many, when initially using these contraptions.

but tightening the screw jacks and tensioning the w/d bars will RAISE the hitch junction...

my rig climbs 2-4 inches as the jacks are tightened.

look at the SIDE pics in post #21 or devos, or steveh's or yours...

typically the SPARE TIRE carrier is ~ the same clearance as the hitch, once properly adjusted.

starting with MORE drop (if needed) means the trailer will RISE to level but not go UP past level,

as the truck axle loads are balanced.

this will be more apparent, once u play with the settings at the scales.
__________

my rig is ~57 ft long and occasionally i loosen the screw jacks when headed OFF road.

this actually decreases front/A frame clearance but raises the tail some.

which is useful in places where the tail may drag,

like long concave shaped gullies or crowned roads leading into steep drive ways.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:14 PM   #170
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Good points all around. I do, however, think the drop will be about perfect. When I view my photos above, it appears to me both the rear of the truck and the front of the trailer could stand to go up another couple inches. And yes, I do have calibrated eyeballs
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:43 PM   #171
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So here is another question, based on these photos of the rear of the yoke, do I need to move the rear cross brace back a little? Doesn't the yoke roll on that roller when going over a crest/dip in the road or does everything just move on the ball?

It moves slightly forward and rearward on hills and dips. It wouldn't hurt to move the frame bracket back slightly to give yourself some more space between the tubes on the frame bracket and the tail plate on the yoke.


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Old 12-03-2009, 08:44 PM   #172
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It moves slightly forward and rearward on hills and dips. It wouldn't hurt to move the frame bracket back slightly to give yourself some more space between the tubes on the frame bracket and the tail plate on the yoke.


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Thanks Sean, thats what I was thinking. Right now there may be 1/8" of clearance on the forward side.
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:00 PM   #173
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More adjustments

Ok, so today i adjusted the stinger so it was more level, vice pointing down slightly. I bought another 5/8 x 4" bolt, another nut, and three lockwashers. I just feel better with lockwashers on the 4.5" bolts, and it makes it so I don't have to use a deepwell socket to tighten them. I'm happy with the stinger now, though as you will see below, I may have to drop it to the full 8".

Bolts, nuts, and washers


Level stinger




Then I moved the spring bar link to the third hole from the top, which based on the angle of the spring bars, I think I should probably move it back?






Finally, I moved the frame bracket back about an inch, and cycled the jacks. It can now move without the front of the yoke bottoming out on the frame bracket.


I went to my local scale today at the truck stop to see about getting everything weighed, but they said they could only give a gross weight, on a truck my size, not individual axle weights? Where do you folks go to get weighed?

I did do the measurement thing. Unloaded the truck is about an inch or two higher in the rear. After hitching up, I got the front back to where it was prior to unhitching (24.75", axle centerline to top of fender), but I still think the rear could stand to come up about another inch. Its pretty close to level, but it still looks like its squatting a bit in the rear. However, the trailer appears to be perfectly level, maybe even a smidge high in the front. This makes me thing I need to drop the stinger to the full 8". What do you folks think?


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Old 12-04-2009, 03:23 PM   #174
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looks good now...

don't be concerned about the w/d bars NOT being parallel with the A frame after tensioning.

for MANY of us with significant tongue mass, they will be UP sloping and bowed like your pics...

i assume these are 800 lbs bars?
__________

for axle weights i use truck stops with cat scales, there are 2 threads on this...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...-in-17984.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...nts-53304.html
__________

the trailer look pretty level NOW,

place a magnetic bubble level on the A frame n check it (see the tiny orange thing in post 21 pics) next time u adjust...

since you are headed to j/c they have the capability to weight/check EACH contact point (tire) and each axle,

but they will charge HOURLY labor rate to do this and NOT with your TV hooked up.

find a truck stop with cat scales (google locations) first pass is 7-9$ and remeasures are 1$ each.
_____________

1 other issue, NOT pp related is the truck tires.

given the extra load from the trayla, it's a good idea to check air pressure and adjust UP accordingly.

IF the tires are E rated, 70-75 psi is a good base for towing (i run 75-80 psi)

i like the 4 bolt idea and might add another on the next trip.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:28 PM   #175
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looks good now...

i like the 4 bolt idea and might add another on the next trip.

cheers
2air'

I agree. Looks GOOD!

4 bolts will work fine but you won't get any hitch bar tilt with 4 bolts. The hole is the actual pivot hole that works with the slotted holes for the tilt feature. The top HOLES won't line up with the bar tilted. If you don't need any tilt then the 4 bolts will work.
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:43 PM   #176
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ok, good info sean.

that also means removing the rivet (the 4 holes don't line up with the rivet inside)...

and i wanna see how it (the rivet) holds up to compression and towing several 1000s of miles before fiddling with it.

plus a stinger with a rivet is just cool (in an airstream way...)

thanks
2air'
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:53 PM   #177
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Oh contrair (sp?), the rivet does fit with 4 bolts in. I have mine in the bottom hole. No washers of course.

Do you guys think I should go to the full 8" drop on the stinger?

That scale I visited today was a CAT scale, with at leass three separate weigh tables on it. That dude I spoke with probably just didn't know his butt from a hole in the ground. I may go back this evening and try to find someone who has a clue.
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Old 12-04-2009, 04:01 PM   #178
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Oh contrair (sp?), the rivet does fit with 4 bolts in. I have mine in the bottom hole. No washers of course.

Do you guys think I should go to the full 8" drop on the stinger?...
ok good info!

it makes sense that the bottom hole will work, but the rivet won't be under any compression with the w/d bars flexed.

yes i think the full drop is gonna be your final stinger position but ....

the air bags add another variable and i don't wanna compete with your calibrated eyes (i've only got 1 eye)
___________

3 platforms+cat scale= good to go! (hopefully another scale master will be working)

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-04-2009, 04:01 PM   #179
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i assume these are 800 lbs bars?

cheers
2air'
They are 1000 lb bars
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Old 12-04-2009, 04:06 PM   #180
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They are 1000 lb bars
that was a wise choice, good thinking!

cheers
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Old 12-04-2009, 04:11 PM   #181
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ok good info!

it makes sense that the bottom hole will work, but the rivet won't be under any compression with the w/d bars flexed.

yes i think the full drop is gonna be your final stinger position but ....

the air bags add another variable and i don't wanna compete with your calibrated eyes (i've only got 1 eye)
___________

3 platforms+cat scale= good to go! (hopefully another scale master will be working)

cheers
2air'
True the rivet isn't under any real compression, but that extra bolt I threw in there is. Its rock solid.

I am going to go to the full 8" drop and probably put the bars back on the second hole, then I'm going to hook up and head back to the scale.

Based on my unofficial trip to the dump today (to dispose of all the PP packaging ), when I first rolled on the scale with just the front, it was around 4200 lbs, total truck was 7540. So by math, that means ~3340 on the back axle.
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:11 PM   #182
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Oh contrair (sp?), the rivet does fit with 4 bolts in.

DOH! I obviously didn't know that. I could swear I tried it once and the holes didn't line up. Anyway, good to know.

The part about not being able to have any tilt is at least correct...
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