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Old 07-06-2010, 06:32 PM   #241
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door space...

how far FORWARD on the tongue does the door swing down??

the jacks mount 25 inches back from the ball

but can be moved +/- an inch or so...

see pix in post #8 and later in devo's posts.

IF you measure how much clearance is needed

and mark off the jack placements on the A frame this might help sort out spacing.

maybe toss up a pic so we compare to rigs with the hitch installed.

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-06-2010, 06:52 PM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
door space...

how far FORWARD on the tongue does the door swing down??

the jacks mount 25 inches back from the ball

but can be moved +/- an inch or so...

see pix in post #8 and later in devo's posts.

IF you measure how much clearance is needed

and mark off the jack placements on the A frame this might help sort out spacing.

maybe toss up a pic so we compare to rigs with the hitch installed.

cheers
2air'
Hi, from memory, which might be failing with age, I believe the front cargo/storage door, just clears the back of the propane cover; This is where the jacks are mounted, preventing from opening the door all the way down flat over the battery box area.
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Old 07-06-2010, 07:10 PM   #243
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Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, from memory...
would that be "memory" of where u mounted your pp?



i'm aware of the particulars bob, regarding tanks, covers, jacks and so on...

but withOUT measurements can't check the PRECISE space needs.

also tank placement (and the cover) isn't exactly the same on all stream models...

and the battery boxes are not all the same size either.

the point being IF westy' makes some measurements i/others who HAVE a pp...

can check the jack locations better and factor in the door clearance needs.

his hatch door, A frame length, ball position are relatively fixed positions...

the tanks/cover AND the pp mounting are somewhat flexible.

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:25 PM   #244
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Thanks for the info guys. Sean@PP said 28" from center of the ball back. That puts it exactly behind the propane tank cover and interferes with the door by about 1/2 inch. I'll post a pic soon. This is the first chance I have had to get the trailer out of storage and properly look.

Robert, do you have a picture of your setup with the door down? How far down does it go before interfering. If it goes down down 35 degrees, that's not bad, but if it goes down 22.5 degrees, no go.
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Old 07-09-2010, 04:55 PM   #245
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good info chris...

if you take a pic with the door DOWN and measure that distance/arc...

i will mock up a door on my unit and check the clearance from the jacks AND tank cover.

the tanks/cover can be moved forward ever so slightly and the jacks can too...

BUT the jack movement is limited by the YOKE position UNDER the A frame (shown in the first few posts)

i can fiddle with the spacing sunday and get back to ya here.

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:53 AM   #246
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How far door opens after pp install

I will also get back to you. Unfortunately it can't be until Sunday...(the A/S is in Storage in a nearby city). What I can tell you right now is that the door will open sufficiently to store and get to tools and equipment in that space. We do need to pay attention to wheather the door is open or closed so that we don't "munch" it again when we are working with adjusting the hitch. It should be part of the set up, take down list one uses.

On Sunday I will measure the angle and get back to you. 2Air, I know, I know, you want pictures. Not sure I can pull that off, but I will try.

In any event in my mind, the value of having the safety and competence of the pp hitch far outweighs the issue with the door.

Just spoke to John, he confirms my "sense" of the open door. If without the hitch the door opens flat to behind propane tank (90 degrees), the door now opens halfway (45 degrees).

Again, I will measure on Sunday.

Mary D.
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Old 07-10-2010, 01:23 PM   #247
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2air, thanks, I'll get a picture soon. I have been thinking of eliminating one propane tank, which would eliminate the need for the big pretty cover and should buy a little forward clearance. The propane tank elimination idea comes from wanting to shave down some tongue weight and the fact that I almost never go through a tank during regular season. I hate pulling all that weight around for no reason.

Also after rereading my previous post, clearly I was thinking incorrectly on terms of door opening angles. Clearly a close to 90 degree opening is preferred.
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Old 07-11-2010, 02:41 PM   #248
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Flying Cloud 27 ft front storage; angle of opening

The pro pride hitch installation limits our ability to open the front storage compartment as discussed. I measured the angle of opening and it opens to 55 degrees (completely open, with out the hitch would be 90 degrees).

I also measured from the top of the storage opening to the door. That opening is 10 1/4 inches. So that would be the size opening you would be dealing with to get items stored in and out. As I have said before, we have found this to be acceptable.
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Old 07-11-2010, 03:56 PM   #249
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outSTANDING post mary!

thanks 4 going the extra mile.

the photo will help many others understand about access.
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i just measured the distance from the front SKIN to the jack tubes on my unit...

10 inch at the top and ~11 at the bottom (since the shell is curvaceous)

the jacks MIGHT be moved forward 1/2-1 inch...

but that's about it before the w/d bars would start to LIFT the hitch head.
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your pix clearly shows the compartment is useable with some wigglin' of stuff.

i'd hate to give up ANY storage but given the UP side of a pp...

i may be biased...
__________

some units have a SQUARED CORNERED front access door that is slightly taller as i recall.

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:35 PM   #250
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This is a copy of the post I made in the Tow Vehicle and hitch section, but it applies directly to the 3P, so I copied it here. I hope that is OK.

2Air would be proud of me. I stopped by the CAT scales today and weighed the rig. I am towing a 1997 34' Excella with a 2009 F150 Supercrew 5.4L gas engine and 2X4 drivetrain. Max weights; Front Axle 3600#, Rear Axle 4000#, GVWR 7100# Wheel Base 145" Max Tow 11,300# GCWR 17,100#

Following are the scale results:

Truck only, no "stinger" for 3P hitch, full fuel, driver (185#), 11 yr old son in rear seat (90#) wife and 10yr old daughter missing. (but I know they are around somewhere)

Front Axle 3280# Rear Axle 2740# Gross 6020#

Truck & 34' Airstream, 3P Hitch Bar stringer set to 4th hole from top of 6, empty holding tanks (we have yet to travel with them filled)

5" weight distribution jack extension
Front Axle 3160# Rear Axle 3700# Trailer Axle 7620# Gross Wt 14480#

6 1/2" Weight distribution jack extension
Front Axle 3320# Rear Axle 3520# Trailer 7640# Gross Weight 14480#

7 3/4" weight distribution jack extension
Front Axle 3380# Rear Axle 3460# Trailer 7660# Gross Weight 14,500#

I find it interesting that moving the weight distribution jacks beyond 5" actually moves a little (20#) back to the trailer axles. The tongue weight appears to remain steady at 820# with the increased jack extension.

I will probably run at the 6 1/2" jack height as it gives me a bit more buffer on the front axle (remember my wife, daughter, and dog weren't in the truck for the weigh in). Generally we carry very little additional weight on the truck bed, and most of the additional stuff in the trailer is food and clothing which all goes on or aft of the axles.

Thank you to all of the Airforum folks who did this before me so that I would know to do it. It provides peace of mind, plus allowed me to better adjust my 3P hitch for a safer towing experience. It also tells me that should we ever consider full timing (many years from now when the children are off to College or beyond), a move to an F250 may be in order. I know FT people have a lot more stuff in the trailer and vehicle than weekenders and rally folks like ourselves.

I hope this helps anyone considering doing something similar.
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Old 07-12-2010, 10:30 PM   #251
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great job craig,

i replied in more detail over in your NEW cat scale thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...lla-66840.html

now all we need HERE is a photo or 2 of your rig all step and towin'...

with some scenic background to accent the combo.

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-13-2010, 07:47 AM   #252
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I'll work on that. Perhaps a good scenic background will present itself at the Top of Georgia rally this week.
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Old 07-13-2010, 11:03 AM   #253
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I have the anti-jack-lean modification installed now and it works great.

The kit includes two small pieces of U channel that fit between each U bolt and the A frame, and two rectangular pieces of flat steel stock that fit between the 7/16" clamping bolts and the A frame. The jacks are noticeably more secure and don't move when pushed from the top by hand.
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Old 07-16-2010, 03:44 PM   #254
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Just wanted to chime in here and say we now have about eight thousand miles towing with the PP and couldn't be happier.
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Old 07-19-2010, 05:04 PM   #255
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Great info - how would the PP3 install go on a 34' limited with the cowling and horizontal tanks in place? Has anyone done this?
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Old 07-19-2010, 05:59 PM   #256
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...how would the PP3 install go on a 34' limited with the cowling and horizontal tanks in place?...
hi 'wave...

welcome to the land of quality towing gizmos.

quickly searching does not yield any USEFUL pix of the tank cover IN PLACE.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f287...ada-54494.html

take a few pix and post them. (along the same lines as bill in post #235)

((if u need help posting pix, there are CLEAR how2s threads on this...))

-entire A frame area (ball back to skin)
-underside of the same (jack back to shell)
-closer up of the A frame top side...

and IF u really want solid responses, PLACE a YARD STICK along one of the A frame rails...

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-20-2010, 11:54 AM   #257
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Going from memory, I think there should be enough room on the sides for the jacks. I don't remember the tank cover extending all the way to the tongue jack. As 2Air said, pics would help a lot!
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:24 AM   #258
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I am a self-proclaimed newbie and my maiden voyage from WI to AL of 740 miles and one short trip this past weekend represents the total extent of my AS towing experience. I would like to get some feedback on what causes front-to-rear jerking or bouncing when braking or hitting road bumps. In general, is it too much or too little tension on WD jacks? Upon Sean's suggestion to raise the jack to 4-5" on day of delivery and installation (a nightmare btw - but another story - couldn't have made it without Sean's weekend on-call support), I still have not found the "sweet spot" if one exists. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:56 AM   #259
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hi chris

post up a picture or 2 of your rig, this always helps with cyberarmchairbackseatdriving.

and before we all chime in with theory and solutions to your issues...

>> clarify this "front to rear jerking or bouncing" issue...

does this mean when applying the brakes the yukon is tugged back or pushed or both?

>> did someone SETUP the trailer brake controller and dial it in properly?

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ump-58101.html

>> how much air pressure in the yukon tires (do you add air for towing) ? ...

tension on the w/d bars-jacks is used to help REload the yukon front axle so that steering control is normal.

>> have u measured the 'stance' or weighed the rig and each axle on the yukon ?

this may seem like more trouble than you want, especially as a noob' but still important...

here is some background and examples from others...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...tte-25937.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...lla-66840.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...nts-53304.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...4x4-65644.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...-in-17984.html
_________

on SOME sections of roadway and with some tv/trailer combos

there may be occasions when the rig seems to porpoise or rock/roll forward.

>> is THAT what's meant by 'front to rear jerking or bouncing' ??

this is not something that can be entirely 'adjusted' away,

since it's related to irregularities in road surface.

IF that happens simply lighten up on the GO pedal

and slow down a bit, till PAST that section of roadway.

IF porpoising is happening ALL of the time...

check air pressures and hitch install and setup and trailer loading.

we all start somewhere,

and finding the sweet spot includes COMFORT and acclimation to driving WHILE towing...

>> so post up some pics, read a bit and 'splain more.

cheers
2air'


cheers
2air'
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Old 07-27-2010, 03:47 PM   #260
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post up a picture or 2 of your rig, this always helps with cyberarmchairbackseatdriving. Regarding the pics, since those were taken and per Sean's suggestion, I have raised the hitchbar by one hole. This has helped level the nose of the AS.

>> clarify this "front to rear jerking or bouncing" issue...

does this mean when applying the brakes the yukon is tugged back or pushed or both? I would describe it as tugging back & forth or porpising (sp??) as you describe below. I do not believe the TV is being pushed. Accelerating out of it helps. I just wasn't sure if the WD set up played a role in such movements.

>> did someone SETUP the trailer brake controller and dial it in properly?
The hitch and the brake controller were both set up by the dealership. Properly - that's questionable. However, the TT brakes are clearly engaging before the TV. As a matter of fact, this weekend I commented that I thought they were "grabbing a bit too hard".

>> how much air pressure in the yukon tires (do you add air for towing) ? ... MAX per tire = 35lbs front and rear.

tension on the w/d bars-jacks is used to help REload the yukon front axle so that steering control is normal. Could I be raising them too high - even though the TV-TT appear level? Could that create such a movement when towing?

>> have u measured the 'stance' or weighed the rig and each axle on the yukon ? No, and I suspected that you'd ask (note, I was counting you to reply! Thanks for doing so!!). I plan to re-read some of these threads and get the weights this weekend.

this may seem like more trouble than you want, especially as a noob' (that's me - though I am happy as a lark ) but still important...


there may be occasions when the rig seems to porpoise or rock/roll forward.

>> is THAT what's meant by 'front to rear jerking or bouncing' ?? As noted above, that seems to be a fitting description.


IF porpoising is happening ALL of the time... Not all of the time - very smooth ride/feel the majority of the time. Primarily noticing this when slowing down.

Again, thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it very much. ...learning.

-Chris
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