Visit our Popular Forums

mstephens · 04-13-2013, 12:11 PM

I can not even imagine trying to remove bars without first raising the truck with the jack!!!

KJRitchie · 05-07-2013, 01:49 PM

After about a month's ownership and about 1000 miles of towing I noticed the two swinging arms where the bars connected could be swiveled with ease compared to when we first got it. I checked the user manual and those nuts are supposed to be torqued to 45lbs and now I can't budge them. Probably gotta insert the bars. Do these nuts come loose frequently?

Kelvin

ROBERTSUNRUS · 05-07-2013, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

After about a month's ownership and about 1000 miles of towing I noticed the two swinging arms where the bars connected could be swiveled with ease compared to when we first got it. I checked the user manual and those nuts are supposed to be torqued to 45lbs and now I can't budge them. Probably gotta insert the bars. Do these nuts come loose frequently?

Kelvin

Hi, I think there is some slight wear on the hitch head, temp changes, and the pushing out of the grease that causes this to happen. I replaced my bolts with grade eight bolts and torque them to 80 lbs or 100 lbs depending on how I feel. [they shouldn't be able to move without the help of the spring bars] Before each trip, I take the hitch head apart to clean and re-grease the area where the spring bar sockets ride. On long trips, I try to do them once in the camp ground.

subfan1 · 05-07-2013, 03:05 PM

I saw that Equalizer is changing their upside down L bracket to be 1 piece rather than having a loose pin at the bottom. I'm going to look into this part because I fear loosing these pins. I have not seen the part on their web site yet. I read it on RVPro

Pedecanada · 05-08-2013, 08:24 AM

Thanks for the help its very easy to get bars on and off now and system seems to work great.

mefly2 · 05-08-2013, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by subfan1

I saw that Equalizer is changing their upside down L bracket to be 1 piece rather than having a loose pin at the bottom. I'm going to look into this part because I fear loosing these pins. I have not seen the part on their web site yet. I read it on RVPro

Any further details on this change ... or a link?

KJRitchie · 05-09-2013, 05:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by subfan1

I saw that Equalizer is changing their upside down L bracket to be 1 piece rather than having a loose pin at the bottom. I'm going to look into this part because I fear loosing these pins. I have not seen the part on their web site yet. I read it on RVPro

Equalizer didn't redesign their bracket pads for these brackets either. I have the newer 1 piece style where you just flip over a retaining bar and the retaining bar doesn't clear the nylon bracket pad. I suppose I could cut away some of the material but that may jeopardize the design. I think I'll return the part to eTrailers.

I tightened the end bolts of the swing arm and added some lithium grease and it seemed to help with the noise so I may just bypass the pads.

Kelvin

subfan1 · 05-09-2013, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mefly2

Any further details on this change ... or a link?

Sorry I delete the emails I receive from RVPro. I saw it on Monday or Tuesday's email from them. I copied the part number and tried to find it on their website but couldn't. It does not come up yet.

subfan1 · 05-09-2013, 10:43 PM

Found it

News - Progress Mfg. Announces Design Change to Equal-i-zer® Hitch

ROBERTSUNRUS · 05-09-2013, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, I drilled a second hole in my "L" pins and installed a roll pin in it; This helps hold this pin in place so it won't flop around and get bent or bind on the spring bars.

Hi, although still a two piece set-up, I think my roll pin modification, shown on page #3, post #29, is better than this new flip/clip on the new "L" pin.

KJRitchie · 06-04-2013, 12:06 PM

I've had my 2008 Classic 25 a couple of months now and I think with a few things loaded I might want to get the hitch readjusted. When I bought my AS the dealer didn't weight the hitch. I had a Sherline hitch scale with me and even though the AS brochure for 2008 showed my Classic as having close to 800lbs I weighed it and it came up as 1100lbs. However, despite the technician acknowledging the weight what ended up being installed was the 1000lb head and bars. Should they have installed the next size up, the 1400lb head/bars? I remember them showing me the trailer hitch was level with a torpedo level and the truck (Toyota Tundra) looked level. Not much is stored under the front bed.

I only have 4 washers on the hitch head. They didn't give me any spare washers. Would 5 lift the trailer hitch up a bit. I think I read this was preferred rather than adjusting the brackets on the hitch.

Hate the noise backing up and slow sharper turns. The bracket jackets won't work because I have the new spring clips and they don't clear the jackets.

Kelvin

Gene · 06-04-2013, 01:20 PM

You can get new washers at a hardware store. Buy #8 hardness.

We consider the noise to mean it is working. Close the windows.

Many will tell you lighter is better on the bars. It is supposed to make the combination ride smoother. Thus they use bars with weight ratings less than the hitch weight.

You really can't eyeball how level the Tundra is. The hood and bed are not level because of styling. The proper way to tell how much weight is transferred to the front axle is to measure the distance to ground at each wheel well before and after hitching. The Equalizer materials (find them on their website if you don't have the instructions) state how much change there should be. If I recall correctly, the front should be within 1" after hitching of what it was before you hitch it. The closer the better, but it can be impossible to get it perfect. More important it that the trailer is level and you can use the belt line and a level to tell. The 3rd most important thing is the bars should be close to level, but that can be really hard to do on ours and we content ourselves with a reasonably level trailer and the front axle of the truck just within the 1" rule. The bars come out a couple of inches low in the back. Every truck and trailer combination has a different way to adjust the hitch and some are closer to ideal and others are not.

This is a thing of compromises. Perfect is a hope, but cannot be achieved unless you want to make your own hitch. The Equalizer (and every other hitch) are designed for a variety of combinations. The hitch can be adjusted several ways and getting it best is trial and error. Find a level place (or a grade that is even) and play with it. It usually means adding one or more washers (dealers keep the extras) after a few months use—even at hardness 8, they may compress a little and other parts wear in. Other things may need adjustment as well. It took me an afternoon of trying different things and that was the only way to really understand how this thing works. It was hot and the hitch head (I had to remove it many times) got heavier and heavier. Finally I got it done and it has worked well for years since.

Gene

RUMSHIP · 06-04-2013, 01:42 PM

Keep the 1000 lbs bars. The 1400 lbs bar will over stress your rig and make your ride very rigid. .

KJRitchie · 06-04-2013, 02:36 PM

I don't have the tools to remove and install the 3/4" bolts on the hitch head to add another washer and then to torque it down. I think where I've added the most weight is the back of the Tundra. Bakflip VP, Bedrug, couple of folding reclining lounge chairs, folding table, 5 lb propane bottle, small BBQ, and a 50 qt ice chest with heavy beer bottles.

Kelvin

Gene · 06-04-2013, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I don't have the tools to remove and install the 3/4" bolts on the hitch head to add another washer and then to torque it down. I think where I've added the most weight is the back of the Tundra.…

Kelvin

Buying more tools is part of owning an RV. Think of the opportunity—"Dear, I need a big set of rachet wrenches so I can make sure we have everything we need to camp safely. I need more screwdrivers, adjustable wrenches, a rubber mallet, torque wrench, etc., etc. I won't trouble you with the details; I'll just go to the store so you won't be bothered with thinking about it."

Gene

Captain Hank · 06-05-2013, 07:16 AM

If you call Equal-i-zer customer service they will answer your questions about set up and will send you some more washers. You can also down load a manual from their WEB site that will help you with the set up.

I had 1200# bars on my 27' and changed to 1000' bars because it was too stiff and I was popping rivets in the front.

Periodically you should check the torque on all the bolts on the hitch, so it would be good to have the proper tools, especially if you are on the road.

I have had to readjust my Hitch several times to get it right, so again the tools would be useful.

The last time I made and adjustment I now need the snap up tool that Equal-i-zer makes, but I do not have one. If anybody reading this thread has one that they are not using, please let me know I could use one.

Thanks,
Henry

Gene · 06-05-2013, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Hank

The last time I made and adjustment I now need the snap up tool that Equal-i-zer makes, but I do not have one. If anybody reading this thread has one that they are not using, please let me know I could use one.

Thanks,
Henry

I thought the tool to get the bars on came with the Equalizer. I do use it on occasion. It doesn't do much to the get the bars off.

Gene

Antique Pedaler · 06-05-2013, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gene

I thought the tool to get the bars on came with the Equalizer. I do use it on occasion. It doesn't do much to the get the bars off.

Gene

I called Equal-I-zer and they sent me one free.

For tools a couple of 12" adjustable wrenched are all I need.

Following talk with a factory tech, I use the light weight bars from my old 19'er on the 25'er.

Mikec1231 · 06-05-2013, 08:35 AM

I took my truck (F-150 Super Crew) and AS (27'FB) to the local hitch store with a great reputation. They re-adjusted my hitch and also added a number of washers to increase the angle of the ball. They said the front is about 1" high when loaded but was the best they could do. My hitch now makes a ton of noise (should it?) both while turning slow and going over small dips. Pulling into a park on Friday night we were catching all kinds of looks from the other campers. Also the F-150 feels a bit funny while driving at speed. Just not the way it normally feels. Not sure if this is what should be going on?? Having had it on an F-350 diesel, we didn't even know the rig was behind us.
Would love to hear your thoughts on the above.

Gene · 06-05-2013, 10:00 AM

The Equalizer hitch makes noise. They have some products that reduce the noise where the bars are attached to the tongue. We do not use these. Sometimes people look when we drive by in campgrounds and I assume they don't know how this brand works. They do not bother us.

Mikec…, how did the Equalizer feel on the F-150 before you had the hitch store adjust it? Despite their good reputation, they may have let you down. The only way to be sure of what it done is to check it carefully yourself.

Gene