Equal-i-zer Hitch Thread.

[Gene]

I didn't know anyone filled out those warranty cards. When I have had a problem with a product, no one has ever asked me whether I sent it in and it hasn't made any difference in how they treated me.

So far as torquing to 320 lbs., either you have to invest in a much bigger torque wrench, calculate just how to do it correctly with a breaker bar, or use the backyard mechanic's system—put the biggest wrench• you have on it, put a long pipe on the wrench, stand on the far end of the pipe being careful not to fall off. Not entirely accurate, but it works for me.

Gene

*Make sure the big wrench is of sufficient quality that it doesn't break while you're standing on the pipe because if it breaks you are surely going flying into something hard. For liability issues, do not try this at home, but only with a professional on a closed course.

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by Gene

So far as torquing to 320 lbs., either you have to invest in a much bigger torque wrench, calculate just how to do it correctly with a breaker bar, or use the backyard mechanic's system—put the biggest wrench• you have on it, put a long pipe on the wrench, stand on the far end of the pipe being careful not to fall off. Not entirely accurate, but it works for me.

Gene

*Make sure the big wrench is of sufficient quality that it doesn't break while you're standing on the pipe because if it breaks you are surely going flying into something hard. For liability issues, do not try this at home, but only with a professional on a closed course.

Gene,

I like it, all of it.

Gary

[Antique Pedaler]

Just get a large anough wrench.

[GCinSC2]

I posted this a couple of years ago, but it sidetracked into a limited discussion about what is the correct lockwasher, not the point. The tool pictured is a big dial torque 3/4" drive wrench, about 48" long. That's my Equal-I-Zer, rotated 90 deg so I could pull down. The jack stand is keeping the pipe wrench from rotating, I know pipe wrench leaves marks, it was already marked up. Worked pretty good.

[Antique Pedaler]

[QUOTE=Gene;1405124]I didn't know anyone filled out those warranty cards. When I have had a problem with a product, no one has ever asked me whether I sent it in and it hasn't made any difference in how they treated me.



Gene

As i understand it, those warranty cards serve to provide information about the customer to sell to other companies' mailing lists. and do not initiate warranty coverage. SAVE YOR RECEPTS.[/U]

[m.hony]

I just filled it out because it came up/was suggested during phone conversations/emails with Equal-i-zer/Progress Manufacturing.

[dznf0g]

Filling out the card does help with owner notification....like the recall on the Reese shank that was prone to breaking.

[Al and Missy]

Hello to all,and thanks for the education so far.

I bought a 2001 Safari 25A twin about 10 days ago which came with an equalizer (10,000/1000) hitch. Although the PO's receiver was about 2" lower than mine, I towed it home (8 miles) with WD on and am now in the process of setting the hitch up properly for my truck. My TV is a 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4.

First order of business is to set the hitch ball height. I have done that per the process in the manual. I understand that is an initial setting, to be confirmed by measurement after adjusting the WD and weighing. I have a moving company with a certified scale a few miles from the house so I can make an initial setup, go and take the 3 sets of measurements, and adjust as required.

However, I have been lurking and learning for several months. I have read the Equalizer manual and watched their videos. I checked the factory hitch recommendation widget and it recommends the hitch I've got. I've read this thread end-to-end and several others but I'm still concerned about being over-hitched. What I think I understand is that the 10,000/1000 setup may be too stiff for, say, a 3/4T or larger truck but I haven't seen much regarding the suitability with 1/2T trucks with their allegedly softer suspensions. AS says my tongue weight should be 680# but I suspect that is dry and will get heavier when loaded, maybe as much as 1000-1100# per other posts on here.

It would seem to get the weight transfer right, a specific torque will have to be applied at the WD bar sockets. Given that, it would seem that changing the tilt with washers and then readjusting for the proper WD effect would result in the same force on the bars and thus the same (nominal) force on the trailer. I would think that the transient forces on the trailer due to road shocks could only be changed by changing the bars. As I think of it, the bar reacts like a spring, and the heavier bars have a larger spring constant. Using a lighter bar with a smaller spring constant (but bent farther to get the same WD effect) might introduce less transient force into the trailer due to road shock.

But I could be all wet.

Not trolling for buy another hitch or TV comments, but I seem to be over the recommended weights for a 6000/600 setup and I'm wondering about potential damage to my trailer with the current setup. BTW, the PO used this hitch for probably 5,000 - 10,000 miles with a Chevy 1500 and the original owner used it too. Between the two of them, according to the map on the door, they covered most of the eastern third of the country and I don't see any lost rivets or cracks anywhere. Should I be worried?

Thanks,

Al

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

Hello to all,and thanks for the education so far.

I bought a 2001 Safari 25A twin about 10 days ago which came with an equalizer (10,000/1000) hitch. Although the PO's receiver was about 2" lower than mine, I towed it home (8 miles) with WD on and am now in the process of setting the hitch up properly for my truck. My TV is a 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4.

First order of business is to set the hitch ball height. I have done that per the process in the manual. I understand that is an initial setting, to be confirmed by measurement after adjusting the WD and weighing. I have a moving company with a certified scale a few miles from the house so I can make an initial setup, go and take the 3 sets of measurements, and adjust as required.

However, I have been lurking and learning for several months. I have read the Equalizer manual and watched their videos. I checked the factory hitch recommendation widget and it recommends the hitch I've got. I've read this thread end-to-end and several others but I'm still concerned about being over-hitched. What I think I understand is that the 10,000/1000 setup may be too stiff for, say, a 3/4T or larger truck but I haven't seen much regarding the suitability with 1/2T trucks with their allegedly softer suspensions. AS says my tongue weight should be 680# but I suspect that is dry and will get heavier when loaded, maybe as much as 1000-1100# per other posts on here.

It would seem to get the weight transfer right, a specific torque will have to be applied at the WD bar sockets. Given that, it would seem that changing the tilt with washers and then readjusting for the proper WD effect would result in the same force on the bars and thus the same (nominal) force on the trailer. I would think that the transient forces on the trailer due to road shocks could only be changed by changing the bars. As I think of it, the bar reacts like a spring, and the heavier bars have a larger spring constant. Using a lighter bar with a smaller spring constant (but bent farther to get the same WD effect) might introduce less transient force into the trailer due to road shock.

But I could be all wet.

Not trolling for buy another hitch or TV comments, but I seem to be over the recommended weights for a 6000/600 setup and I'm wondering about potential damage to my trailer with the current setup. BTW, the PO used this hitch for probably 5,000 - 10,000 miles with a Chevy 1500 and the original owner used it too. Between the two of them, according to the map on the door, they covered most of the eastern third of the country and I don't see any lost rivets or cracks anywhere. Should I be worried?

Thanks,

Al

A 1/2 ton truck with standard suspension, should use not more than a 750 to 800 pound rated load equalizing hitch.

Your setup is some what overkill.

Andy

[kscherzi]

Since it worked fine for the PO's with similar tow vehicles I suggest keeping it and using it for awhile. Judge it for yourself. You probably have better things to do with the $500 dollars to replace it.

[Antique Pedaler]

Don't know what your TV is but i've pulled our 25 FB 20,000 miles with the 600/6000 model on our 3/4 ton HD. Talked with Equal-i-zer first. Tech said "officially" he'd recommend the heavier model but that I would be fine.

[Gene]

We've pulled a 25' Safari about 50,000 miles with 1,200 lb. bars and have had no problems. Equalizer will tell you that overweight bars make no difference and I presume that means underweight ones will.

Some rivets did pop in the first few thousand miles, but I replaced them and they have not popped since. I believe they were installed improperly at the factory, so popped rivets do not necessarily mean the bars are too heavy for s 1/2 ton truck.

We find the Equalizer to be very forgiving. The dealer did a poor job of installing it, but the trailer towed well. Once I adjusted it properly, it towed even better.

Gene

[Al and Missy]

Thanks everyone. I won't have any weight data until sometime next week. My best guess now is about 800 pounds of tongue weight. I'll report when I have some hard data but the fact that the trailer has been towed since delivery with this hitch makes me think I should be ok.

Al

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

Thanks everyone. I won't have any weight data until sometime next week. My best guess now is about 800 pounds of tongue weight. I'll report when I have some hard data but the fact that the trailer has been towed since delivery with this hitch makes me think I should be ok.

Al

Since you have a 4 X 4, you will most likely find that the 800 bars bars offer a stiff ride.

In your case, 600 pound bars would be most adequate.

Andy

[kscherzi]

Andy, I don't understand why the recommendation, which is much lower than the manufacturer. Can 600 lb bars properly weight transfer his setup? I got 1200 lb bars for my Expedition 4x4 and 900 lb tongue weight trailer. Add in say 200 lbs in back of TV for a combined lift of 1100 lbs and the manufacturer recommend the 1200 bars. I have no point of reference as this is my first big trailer but the ride doesn't seem unduly stiff to me. I do get good weight transfer though.
- Kurt

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by kscherzi

Andy, I don't understand why the recommendation, which is much lower than the manufacturer. Can 600 lb bars properly weight transfer his setup? I got 1200 lb bars for my Expedition 4x4 and 900 lb tongue weight trailer. Add in say 200 lbs in back of TV for a combined lift of 1100 lbs and the manufacturer recommend the 1200 bars. I have no point of reference as this is my first big trailer but the ride doesn't seem unduly stiff to me. I do get good weight transfer though.
- Kurt

The stiffer riding tow vehicles cause trailer damage.

The stiffer the bars, also causes trailer damage.

Add those two together and most likely you will punish the trailer.

Keep in mind that an Airstream MUST have a soft ride, or else.

Airstream were designed to be towed by cars, but in time the trucks have entered the picture.

Then in time, heavier duty trucks are being used, which really make a shop more wealthy repairing the damages caused by the roughness.

Then add to that stiff ride, torsion axles that have aged out because of the bad rubber rods.

Really, I think the future tow vehicles will probably be in the category of cement trucks.

Maybe I should reopen my service department to rebuild the damages.

Nah, been there, done that, others can do the servicing and rebuilding.

We will stay with the vintage and current parts program.

Andy

[steve.thomps]

Question...what kind of torque wrench do you guys use that'll torque the shank bolts to more than 300 lbs as per the instructions ? I go to Sears and it looks like the torque wrenches there top out at like 80 lbs...

Thanks

[m.hony]

The shank bolts were put on by the dealer with an air ratchet.
I can't get the L-brackets tight enough with my Craftsman torque wrench.
I am ready to try an air ratchet on them.

[Al and Missy]

Harbor Freight has a click style torque wrench that goes to 250#ft. It is 3/4 drive and you would need a cheater bar to get that high. I have not looked at one yet, just saw it online. On sale for $79, I think. Probably would not stand up to serious use, but for occasionally torquing the hitch, probably OK.

Al

[m.hony]

I may need a cheater on my Craftsman.
I have also thought about trying a lug wrench.