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Jackcat2 · 08-28-2013, 08:56 AM

New question concerning trailer height when hooked to TV. Please forgive my lack of knowledge, this sort of thing is hard for me to figure understand. We have a 2012 Ram 3500 mega cab and fulltime in our 2009 30' Classic. Been on the road since May and have racked up 8000 miles. Our Equilizer has made the driving effortless with our setup. My question, our trailer is not close to level when hooked up, a good three inches too high in the front, very noticeable. Top of the hitch ball is 23 1/2" above ground. My uninformed mind tells me I should change to a shank that would allow the ball to be lowered, then readjust everything. My concern is changing it due to how well it has performed so far. No issues even when passed by semis on either side at the same time. The dealer who installed it said not to worry about the ride height, i'm new at this so took his word, but now I'm not so sure. I have the 14,000 hitch.

Jackcat2 · 08-28-2013, 08:58 AM

I should've said the ball height is unloaded

xrvr · 08-28-2013, 01:22 PM

If the adjustment holes will not do the job then perhaps turning the head over will. One way or the other should do the job. Jim

ROBERTSUNRUS · 08-28-2013, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackcat2

New question concerning trailer height when hooked to TV. Please forgive my lack of knowledge, this sort of thing is hard for me to figure understand. We have a 2012 Ram 3500 mega cab and fulltime in our 2009 30' Classic. Been on the road since May and have racked up 8000 miles. Our Equilizer has made the driving effortless with our setup. My question, our trailer is not close to level when hooked up, a good three inches too high in the front, very noticeable. Top of the hitch ball is 23 1/2" above ground. My uninformed mind tells me I should change to a shank that would allow the ball to be lowered, then readjust everything. My concern is changing it due to how well it has performed so far. No issues even when passed by semis on either side at the same time. The dealer who installed it said not to worry about the ride height, i'm new at this so took his word, but now I'm not so sure. I have the 14,000 hitch.

Hi, your trailer should be as level as possible or a bit lower in front. Preferably never higher in the front. [maybe less than one inch higher in front would be OK]

ROBERTSUNRUS · 08-28-2013, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

Can anyone tell me what size deep socket to purchase to remove the receiver/shank nuts? Thanks

Kelvin

Hi, 1 1/8".

JimGolden · 08-28-2013, 05:01 PM

Oops! Been awhile since I had it apart. Yes, you have to pull the top cross bolt out which would allow the head to pivot back so that you could add or remove washers.

When I set mine up, I didn't torque anything down until I had it all sitting level. So it slipped my mind about pulling that top bolt out.

I set mine up six or seven years ago and haven't had to touch it. Once you get it dialed in, you will be happy with it.

cheers,

Jackcat2 · 08-29-2013, 08:14 AM

Thanks for the advice. I also contacted Equalizer and they answered some more questions. I'll be contacting the dealer I originally bought the hitch from in AZ to try to get the right shank. I will say though that even set up as is I experienced no issues at all in 7000 miles.

No. 13 · 08-29-2013, 08:49 AM

7,000 miles Jackcat2? Hard to believe you could safely travel that many miles without a Propride or a Hensly...the absolute best investment you can make for your trailer and for the safety of your family...or is it the 16" wheel upgrade. So hard to remember this stuff.

Jackcat2 · 08-29-2013, 09:50 AM

Okay, No. 13. I rechecked my mileage log. Beginning; 1875 miles. Now; 9740. Approx. unhooked total; under 100. No issues at all. None. Passing semis on both sides, Rocky Mountain crosswinds. One hand driving with no indication of sway. Just had a simple question. Over and out.

Gene · 08-29-2013, 05:59 PM

I think if the trailer is far off level, you can overload one trailer axle. Getting the trailer level is # 1, the truck level is # 2, getting the bars level is # 3. I got the first two level, but not the bars. Haven't adjusted the hitch is about 4 or 5 years even after going to 16" wheels. They made little change (less than Bob's 1" difference).

The washers can compress and get loose. I had to add one or two when I adjusted the hitch years ago and I guess it is time to add another one. If you do, get # 8 washers—they are the hardest ones it is easy to find.

Gene

dkottum · 08-29-2013, 06:41 PM

The trailer needs to be level in an attempt to keep equal weight on it's axles and tires. The Rv dealer who set it up should know that, but it's not unusual for them to do it wrong, collect their fees, and send people out the door with a thumbs up.

The fix would be a longer drop bar for the truck receiver.

doug

m.hony · 09-02-2013, 04:04 PM

My saddles on the a-frame are no longer straight up and down. They are both at an angle with the bottom closer to the tow vehicle.
Why/how did this happen?
What do I do to fix it?

steverino · 09-02-2013, 04:51 PM

I had this problem as well; I tried 3 fixes:

1. sway bracket jackets
2. bolt and 2" long spacer in the bottom link plate holes
3. a shim between the bottom of the frame and the lower bolt

Of the 3, #3 (on advice of Equalizer customer service) was the most effective. The link plates slip if either they are warped, or if there is a little slop between the bottom of the frame and the lower bolt. solution #2 minimises the warp, and solution #3 helps keep the stack snug, thus preventing slippage.

I picked up a couple of steel furniture mending plates at the hardware store, about 1/8" thick. they worked perfectly, and my slippage problems are a thing of the past.

Gene · 09-02-2013, 05:19 PM

The trick is getting the bolts tight enough without bending the plate. Since your bolt is between the propane line and the tongue, the plate is less likely to bend. Once I moved the propane line down, I had no problems with movement or bending. Looks like you have to add a shim as several others have done or a spacer between the plates, or both.

Gene

m.hony · 09-02-2013, 05:48 PM

I might take it by Camper Corral on the way to Canopener and see if they can fix it.

JimGolden · 09-02-2013, 07:55 PM

I had this same problem. Somewhere on these forums I have a very long and detailed thread on the setup of the hitch and what I went through. On there, I discussed this very issue.

When you tighten the bolts down, they pinch the ends of the link plates toward each other and tend to bow the center outward. Not enough to see, but enough that it takes pressure off the center and the link plates can slide. Mine slid all over the place.

If I loosened them up enough to not bow, then they weren't tight enough to not move either.

I wound up getting 1/2" steel plate and welding my link plates onto them, making a doubler. I then used longer bolts (grade 8) in place of the factory ones to go through the link plates and the 1/2" plate on each side now. I put a piece of rubber from an old inner tube between the trailer tongue and the doubler plates, to provide more friction there than just painted metal against painted metal. That fixed it. 10,000+ miles later and she doesn't move at all now.

To me, that was the single biggest flaw with the whole Equal-I-Zer setup. But it's an easy fix.

One other gent on here just welded the link plates directly to the tongue. That works great too, you just can't move them around any once you do that, and it's a big deal to take them off. But if you don't plan on selling, or will sell the EQ with the trailer, they sure don't move if they're welded

Take care,

ROBERTSUNRUS · 09-02-2013, 10:47 PM

Hi, JimGolden made some super thick brackets and you can see what I did on post #13. My tow vehicle, hitch, and trailer have been the same for 9 years now. I believe that my modification was done about 6 years ago and haven't slipped since.

m.hony · 09-09-2013, 05:55 PM

I just straightened the crooked L brackets and link plates.
One L bracket was loose.
I can't say for certain if the installer torqued the nuts, but they are all at 70 ft. lbs. now.
It took 10-11 months to get loose the first time. Maybe it will stay in place this time. Maybe I will have to check/tighten periodically.
Has anyone had experience with bracket jackets or the new pins with thumb latches? I am considering ordering one or the other, but the bracket jackets and new pins won't work together.
Now, that's more like it.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 09-09-2013, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, I drilled a second hole in my "L" pins and installed a roll pin in it; This helps hold this pin in place so it won't flop around and get bent or bind on the spring bars.

Quote:

Originally Posted by m.hony

I just straightened the crooked L brackets and link plates.
One L bracket was loose.
I can't say for certain if the installer torqued the nuts, but they are all at 70 ft. lbs. now.
It took 10-11 months to get loose the first time. Maybe it will stay in place this time. Maybe I will have to check/tighten periodically.
Has anyone had experience with bracket jackets or the new pins with thumb latches? I am considering ordering one or the other, but the bracket jackets and new pins won't work together.
Now, that's more like it.

Hi, my pictures on post number 29 show that I modified my "L" pins and use them with my bracket jackets.

m.hony · 09-09-2013, 06:29 PM

I might get new pins at the hitch head because the cotter key doesn't have enough sticking out to grab it by.
I think the bracket jackets just make it more quiet.
It is already less noisy than some hitches.