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mefly2 · 04-03-2013, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

We would never travel with 39 gallons of water, maybe 10 gallons.

Kelvin

Kelvin

Isn't that a bit sloshy ... hard even on models with baffles in the tank ...

Gene · 04-04-2013, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I would think that is 195 lbs for me, 157 lb for the wife and the tech 160 lbs plus a full water tank (39 gallons) when the hitch was installed.

Kelvin

Kelvin

Kelvin Kelvin, does your wife read these posts about her weight?

If the answer is yes, contact your lawyer soon.

Gene

steverino · 04-04-2013, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mefly2

Isn't that a bit sloshy ... hard even on models with baffles in the tank ...

I'm sorry, I find this hard to believe. With all the over-hitching threads and others, you'd think these units are so fragile we should wrap them in bubble wrap and park them in a (climate-controlled) garage!

Edit: OOPS - No, no, no, bubble wrap would mar the finish. Swaddling cloth, then :-)

SSquared · 04-09-2013, 11:13 PM

Hello again,

I'm still waffling about what hitch to get for my soon-to-arrive 25FB Flying Cloud. I have a 2010 Yukon Denali with auto-leveling rear air shocks. The top of the receiver on the Yukon is 24 inches off the ground. I found a calculator on the Equal-i-zer web site that tells you what shank you need for given values of receiver height and trailer coupler height. For my case, it says " we were unable to determine the right shank for your needs". An earlier poster on this thread mentioned a problem with the drop needed for his Suburban. Is there a reasonable solution? Or should I write off Equal-i-zer and look to another brand?

Steve

RUMSHIP · 04-09-2013, 11:51 PM

There are plenty of shanks out there. You need to go to an RV parts store and get what you need from them. My truck is only 20" to your 24" but I know there are longer shanks then what I use. The EQ hitch is a good and common system. You will have similar issues with other systems because its not the WD hitch, it's the shank drop.

mstephens · 04-11-2013, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSquared

Hello again,

I'm still waffling about what hitch to get for my soon-to-arrive 25FB Flying Cloud. I have a 2010 Yukon Denali with auto-leveling rear air shocks. The top of the receiver on the Yukon is 24 inches off the ground. I found a calculator on the Equal-i-zer web site that tells you what shank you need for given values of receiver height and trailer coupler height. For my case, it says " we were unable to determine the right shank for your needs". An earlier poster on this thread mentioned a problem with the drop needed for his Suburban. Is there a reasonable solution? Or should I write off Equal-i-zer and look to another brand?

Steve

I have a Suburban with an Equalizer. I use a drop shank supplied by the hitch folks and it adjusts just fine to the proper height for the trailer.

On another note: Be cautious about the GM autoride, or level ride feature when towing heavy trailers. I blew out two air compressors in 12 months on my Sub. Those are $700 each repair. I have decided that towing with a big trailer places too much duty cycle on the compressor, and so I am converting my suspension to a passive system. IMO, the autoride was meant to level the car when carrying passengers in the third seat and probably works fine for that.

Pedecanada · 04-11-2013, 07:33 PM

I have a problem setting up my e2 on my 2010 dodge 3500 diesel single axle to a 2009 airstream Panamerica. I have 1000 pound bars. To get my truck to lift back end back up and lower front the bars are hard to get on even with hitch lifted up and to get bars off is even worse even with hitch off ball this is my measurement. front back
2 holes showing at top empty truck unhooked 105 145
trailer weight on truck no e2 hooked up 115 100
trailer weight on truck e2 hooked up 110 105

3 holes showing at top empty truck unlhooked 105 145
trailer weight on truck no e2 hooked up 110 100
trailer weight on truck e2 hooked up 105 115

My hitch heifgt is 22 on top of ball and trailers all for corner are the same and level. I have 6 spacers in since my truck is a mega cab and is long. Only problem is getting bars on is hard and getting off is worse even with lifting hitch of trailer off ball. Bars are even with frame. Thanks for any help.

RUMSHIP · 04-11-2013, 07:41 PM

6 spacers is giving you a lot of angle on the bars. I think I'm using 4. Your #s look a little light on the back after hook up. I don't under stand the more spacers because you have a long truck. Sorry just rambling.

With a 1 ton you should be able to use less spacers transferring more weight to the rear end and giving you a better or less angle on the bars which would give you an easier lift on and off with the bars. Understand?

Pedecanada · 04-11-2013, 08:36 PM

Sorry about last post was in rush. I though I read in manual for longer vehicle use more spacers but what you are saying makes sense. The truck back end drops 45 with trailer load with no e2 with e2 hooked up and two hole showing on top of frame bars it drops 40 and font rises 10 with trailer load and with e2 hooked up front comes back down 5. Bars are not bad to get on but need trailer off hitch and helper bar to get on and off. With 3 holes showing on top it very hard to get bars on and very hard to get off. It raises back of truck 15 and lower front 10 back to unloaded height. Trailer hitch height and levels are good why are bars so tight. Will putting in less spacers like 4-3 make it easier to put bars on and off seems like front of truck is getting lower faster than back is rising. Thanks for help.

RUMSHIP · 04-11-2013, 09:17 PM

Less spacers will take the angle out of the head and put more weight on the back of the truck. The bars should go on easier at that point.

RUMSHIP · 04-11-2013, 09:26 PM

http://youtu.be/LaLJEJ2-HSo

Here is a link that might help with hooking up.

Pedecanada · 04-11-2013, 09:42 PM

I will try 3-4 spacers next time and see how it works. Thanks

RUMSHIP · 04-11-2013, 09:49 PM

Here's a better vid that shows just hitching up. I think you will be happier with less spacers.
No problem have fun.

http://youtu.be/O-Wztf_C-Q4

dznf0g · 04-12-2013, 06:22 AM

However, read this, relative to head angle. I find this to be a great article, even if I don't agree with other "Andy" methodologies.

Installing_Hitch_by_Andy_Thomspon.pdf

Pedecanada · 04-12-2013, 08:58 AM

dzn that was a very good atricle to read. My setup right now seem good for the measurements on truck front and back but the bars are so hard to get on and off and I am use to making stuff work with force working on oil rigs and farming. I feel it might damage trailer if it takes that much force to get bars on and espically off. Is there a specal safe way to take bars off other than just pulling them sidways and making sure feet are not in the way.

JimGolden · 04-12-2013, 10:28 AM

PedeCanada,

Use the trailer jack to lift the back of the truck up.
That takes the tension off the bars.
Then you can pull them off with one hand.

After they are off, lower the jack back down to where the tongue of the trailer is sitting on the ball, unhook the ball coupler, then run the jack back up, lifting the trailer off the ball altogether. Now you can pull away with the truck.

Piece of cake.

dznf0g · 04-12-2013, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimGolden

PedeCanada,

Use the trailer jack to lift the back of the truck up.
That takes the tension off the bars.
Then you can pull them off with one hand.

After they are off, lower the jack back down to where the tongue of the trailer is sitting on the ball, unhook the ball coupler, then run the jack back up, lifting the trailer off the ball altogether. Now you can pull away with the truck.

Piece of cake.

Exactly. most of the AS jacks are 3500# capacity.

Gene · 04-12-2013, 12:02 PM

Ped', I think the numbers you were giving were metric. Most of us in the US don't do well with them, but it does help if you identify that you are talking Kg. and Cm.

Note that after a while with a new hitch, the washers tend to compress a bit even though they are hardened. So anther adjustment with more washers is to be expected later.

Gene

Pedecanada · 04-12-2013, 11:27 PM

I will try using jack to lift trailer couplted to truck to get bars off. So if you did not do this would it be very hard to get bars off or am I missing something.

Gene · 04-13-2013, 08:21 AM

The difficulty of getting the bars off depends on whether the truck and trailer are at the same level. The higher the truck is, the more difficult. But even with both level, lifting the trailer with the jack is necessary. One bar will come off first, then lift the trailer some more to get the other off. It helps to have someone on each side to see which bar comes off first—for us, it is usually the one on the driver's side.

There is a lever provided with the Equalizer to help get them on, but is less help getting it off. Sometimes I have used a claw hammer to help move the last of the two off the L bracket.

Gene